The indications of delay here are evident, from all that can be learned to-day, and we feel that suspense which is natural to those earnestly desiring to accomplish an object.
I accompanied Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether to purchase an outfit of water-proof overcoats and leggins, which cost each of them twenty-two dollars and fifty cents, but they are now well provided against the rainy season.
This period of almost constant rain is now upon us, and lasts usually two or three months in this latitude. During the other nine months of the year, rain falls but seldom in any considerable quantity, and during June, July, and August, is regarded the dry season of the year. These being the coolest months, the relations of the wet and dry season to temperature differs from what is observed in the United States. The winter with us is usually the period of most rain; but there is not so marked a difference, as is remarked in Brazil, between the rainy and dry seasons of the year. I anticipate less inconvenience in travelling from the rain than would be experienced from the continuous hot sun during the day; and learning that the mornings are for the most part free from rain, we can do most of our riding early in the day.
A most important item to the traveller is to have along with him, at all times, a change of under-clothing, and for this object, a water-proof valise or satchel is very convenient. In this, his comb, tooth-brush, and a pair of slippers can also be kept at hand, though he may be temporarily separated from his baggage.
Mr. Bennaton now thinks that matters will be arranged so that we can leave day after to-morrow, but while we do not wish to retard any of the preparations, it is not expected that we will leave until Monday. None of us approve of travelling on the Sabbath, when it can be avoided.
Mr. Blackford called to see us this evening, and remonstrated warmly against Sunday travelling, but more especially against setting out on a business tour upon the Sabbath, when we could so easily wait for another day. He insisted that no good would come of business done on the Sabbath, and said if we did not expect to observe the sanctity of the Sabbath in this country, we had better return at once to our families, as he felt assured they would not prosper here, without keeping the Sabbath day holy to the Lord, and observing it as a day of rest from labor.
Meeting Dom Prates upon the street this afternoon, he informed me that he has a body of land on the Ribeira de Ignape, of which every alternate lot will be given to families who will locate on them.
Having arranged to meet Dom Bernardo Gavião this morning, we proceeded to his office, with Mr. Bennaton as interpreter. Upon inquiring the terms upon which he would dispose of the whole, or a part of the extensive territory of Cambuy, he stated that he would take one hundred and twenty-five thousand ($125,000) dollars for the entire property. Estimating it at twelve square leagues, the cost will be something over one ($1) dollar per acre, and believing that there is not over four square leagues which is well adapted to cultivation, it puts the price over three dollars an acre for the productive land. He couples the proposition with an offer to hire two hundred and forty negroes for a series of years, at the annual rate of twelve thousand five hundred ($12,500) dollars; the first payment to be made at the end of the second year, and without interest, but subsequent payments at the close of each year. He informs us that there are one hundred and twenty men, ninety women, and thirty children. It will be noted that the proportion of men is large to that of the women, and the proportion of children very small, which is to be observed in most gangs of negroes in Brazil; the former owing to larger importations of males from Africa, and the latter from want of proper care of women and their offspring. These negroes are to be fed, clothed, and receive medical treatment, at the expense of the party employing them; while the owner loses the time of disability for labor, by running away, or, in the event of death, a pro rata reduction being made.
Desiring some definite information in regard to the missionary operations of the Presbyterian church in Brazil, the following was handed to me, for such use as I might think proper.
Dear Friend:—In satisfying your request for information in regard to our missionary work in Brazil, I am compelled to-day to be very brief.
In August of 1859, the Rev. A. G. Simonton arrived in Rio de Janeiro. In July of 1860, myself and wife arrived. In May, 1861, Mr. Simonton began preaching in Portuguese to three or four persons. The number of hearers slowly increased the first year to twenty-five or thirty.
In December of 1861, the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider arrived in Rio de Janeiro, destined to labor among the German colonists of this province. He resides in Rio Claro, (São João de,) and has devoted himself to this special work, amid many discouragements, and seeing but little fruit as yet of his labors.
In January of 1862, a church was organized in Rio de Janeiro, when one American and one Portuguese were received on profession, as the first fruits of our mission. Our church there now numbers forty-nine members, nearly all natives and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. Hundreds have heard the word of God preached. The present average attendance is nearly one hundred, and would doubtless be much larger, but from the difficulty of getting a suitable hall for preaching. During most of the years of 1861, ’62, ’63 and ’64, preaching was held in English in Rio de Janeiro.
In October of 1863, I came to São Paulo, to begin a new station in this city. In March of the present year, 1865, we organized a church here, receiving as our first fruits six persons on profession, all natives, and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. The attendance here ranges from fifteen to thirty.
In October of 1864, we received on profession to the church in Rio de Janeiro, O. Senor José Manoel de Conceicão, formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church, and vicar of Brotas in this province. He is a man of fine talents, education, extensive information, and very eloquent. We expect (D. V.) to ordain him on to-morrow, to the full work of the gospel ministry. In his former parish of Brotas a church was organized on the 13th November of the present year, with eleven members, converts from Romanism. No missionary resides there, and the work has been done so far by visits from time to time of the persons above-named.
Since 1855, a Scotch physician has been preaching in Rio de Janeiro. The result is a church, with a membership of more than one hundred, and an attendance of from two to three hundred.
About a dozen colporteurs are at work in Rio de Janeiro, and in various parts of the empire, circulating the Bible and other books.
Some seven or eight German ministers are laboring among their countrymen in various parts.
I am also informed that a Presbytery was organized yesterday, by these three Presbyterian ministers, to be in communication with the Synod of Baltimore. Senor Conceicão having preached his trial sermon this morning, is to be ordained this afternoon. It was delivered at the house of Mr. Blackford, in the presence of a mixed auditory, of which Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether and myself formed a part. As he spoke Portuguese, I could only gather a few ideas, and the others had to draw upon their imagination entirely; but, like the deaf man in regard to William C. Preston, we could say he made the motions well.
Afternoon. Since writing the above, I witnessed the ordination of Senor José Manoel de Conceicão (formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church) as a minister of the gospel in the Presbyterian faith, of the Protestant church. He was interrogated by the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who was joined by the Rev. A. G. Simonton, and the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider, in the laying on of hands, while Senor Conceicão kneeled in their midst. Mr Simonton then delivered an address, at the close of which Senor Conceicão spoke with deep feeling and the most humble appreciation of his new relations.
This event indicates an important epoch in the progress of Protestantism in this papal land, and the character of the individual, with his influence among the people, will doubtless have considerable effect upon the public mind. He has manifested much independence in separating himself from the associations of Romanism; and his appearance bespeaks the character of a high-toned, intelligent gentleman.
Our trunks were packed and all our baggage arranged for taking our departure early this morning; but it was found that there were still wanting two pack-mules and a pack-saddle to equip us for the tour.
Upon the proffer of Dr. Shaw to pay for the pack-saddle, one was purchased by Mr. Bennaton, at the round figure of thirty ($30.00) dollars. Our friend Mr. Sampson procured two additional mules, and the outfit was pronounced complete.
The President of the province having given Mr. Bennaton the requisite document and funds for proceeding with us, our party left the capital at half-past two o’clock P. M., after a detention of five days for preparation.
Mr. J. J. Auburtin, general superintendent of the Santos and São Paulo railway, accompanies us on the tour as far as Sorocaba, having his own servant, and also his own riding mules. But it seems that he is supplied with a pack-mule and pack-saddle by Mr. Bennaton, and hence the necessity for another to be purchased.
There are two camaradas and a servant with us, and the number of animals is fifteen, there being three pack-mules, with five loose animals, besides those under the saddle, exclusive of the two mules of Mr. Auburtin. Two or three of the animals furnished by the government are not in good condition, but those furnished by private parties are well fitted for service, and we have much reason to be thankful for the generosity of these gentlemen in supplying them for our use.
I have the good fortune to be mounted again upon Jack, the mule which was furnished by Mr. Gephardt for my former tour. He has now been purchased for the public service by Mr. Bennaton, in view of a commission which has been intrusted to him by the Minister of Agriculture, for a survey of routes from Campinas to Itu, and to Araraquara, with reference to the location of a railroad. After closing the present expedition, he expects to enter upon that service. This is a very important movement for the future prospects of any of our people who may locate near these places, but we cannot rely upon any thing definite being accomplished speedily for the improvement of transportation in that direction.
Upon leaving I called at the residence of Mr. Blackford, and got a Portuguese and English Testament for Dr. Shaw, and, on offering to pay for it, he told me that payment would be received in farina when business was commenced in this country, or, in other words, it was a present.
We halted for the night at the Ponte Cretia, where the establishment and the feminine tenant gave but little promise of comfort. Corn, however, for our animals, and supper of chicken and rice for ourselves, with tolerable beds, reconciled us to the necessity of the situation. In driving the animals to a pasture in the dark, a horse fell over a precipice and was left for the night.
After getting a cup of coffee and having corn given to the stock, we got off from Ponte Cretia at 7 o’clock this morning. The horse being extricated from the ravine proved to be but slightly injured, and all moved on towards Itu. A number of trains of pack-mules were passed, laden with cotton, some of the bales being marked three and a half arrobas, (one hundred and twelve pounds,) while others were marked three arrobas, (ninety-six pounds,) and larger in bulk than those observed from other parts of this province. These bales correspond very much to the bales of Osnaburg, seen in South Carolina and Georgia, being, however, a little longer and not so broad. They are enclosed in bagging, with the sipo vine used instead of ropes.
We met on the road Colonel Fortunato José de Camargo, who resides near Faxina, and is engaged largely in raising horses, mules and cattle.
Mr. Auburtin informs me that he owns eighty (80) square leagues of territory, being the largest landowner in the province.
Our weather-protectors were brought into requisition to-day to keep off the shower of rain.
We stopped early in the day at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim José de Silva, some two miles from the main road, where every thing needful was provided for us.
We saw here a patch of tea-plants which had evidently grown well, but was now neglected. The seed are round, of the size of a small acorn, and three in each pod.
Cotton which had produced a crop last year was again growing well, after being cut off near the ground.
Corn is also looking vigorous, and promises a good yield. All this land is very steep and hilly.
After our horses and mules came from the pasture this morning, it was observed that some of them had blood upon their necks, caused from the bites of the bat, known as the vampire, that not unfrequently attacks animals at night, and fixes itself upon a vein of the neck.
Being supplied with an early breakfast, we took leave of Senor Silva and his two good-looking daughters, who were seen then for the first and only time during our visit. His son went with us to the Freguezia Avasariquama, or Piedede, avoiding the steep hills by which we had approached on the day previous.
One league beyond this place we reached the margin of the Tieté, and proceeded along it by a very fair road fifteen or sixteen miles, when we turned to the left, and reached the city of Itu at 6 o’clock in the evening.
This region of country is very irregular and even mountainous, yet we found cane growing well, and also a good prospect for corn and rice. The river is not suited for navigation, and the settlements on both sides depend upon the road we travelled for sending their products to market by carts or pack-mules.
We made a halt of three and a half hours during the heat of the day at the inn of Verzinha, getting dinner and refreshing our animals.
Upon reaching the town of Itu the urgent thirst of some of the party was satisfied with beer, after which we repaired to the elegant and extensive establishment of the Baron of Perecicaba. I was sorry that his son, Antonio Paez de Barros, had left home, as my acquaintance with him would have enhanced the pleasure of the visit.
The old gentleman, however, received us with the greatest cordiality, and tendered us any thing he could do or furnish for our comfort. Leaving Mr. Auburtin to talk with the baron, the rest of us strolled out to the extensive fruitery, which is nearly a mile in length, and filled with a great variety of trees and vines.
The best quality of pine apple, called Abacashi, is growing here abundantly. Oranges, bananas, jaboticabas, pomegranates, figs, peaches and apples all grow here advantageously. There was a specimen of dwarf apple, spread over the ground like a small shrub, in the spaces between the other trees, and having a small, pleasant-tasted fruit. Upon inquiry I learned that this is a peculiar variety, and not the result of any special mode of culture.
Grapes of various kinds were growing vigorously in different parts of the grounds upon frames put up for the support of the vines. We enjoyed a delicious treat of these fine grapes.
The tea-plant was growing over a large area, and looks flourishing, affording a good article for table use. This shrub presents much the aspect of the boxwood tree, and from two to four of the tender leaves from each branch are picked off at each gathering of the crop.
Coffee likewise has a place in this collection of trees, but the soil has not that fertility which is requisite for a good yield, and manure is employed to give vigor to its growth.
The climate and soil of this region is regarded as particularly adapted to the yield of fruits.
Supper was announced at 9½ o’clock, and was of the most substantial order, with beer and wine.
Mr. Auburtin brought out his own black tea by permission.
After breakfast the Baron joined us in a ride to the Salto of the Rio Tieté, four miles distant.
This is an irregular water-fall, making quite a cascade at one point of perhaps twenty feet. The entire fall of water is about fifty feet, and the site is well suited for machinery of any magnitude that may be desired. A large cotton factory might be located here with a prospect of being supplied with raw material from the country below; and much of it could ascend the river in canoes or boats to the foot of this fall. There has been a small mill here upon a site that would warrant extensive works, with command of any amount of water-power, and the investment would doubtless pay handsomely.
A public highway is projected from this place to Jundiahi, the present terminus of the railway from Santos; and this distance of thirty miles with wagons and mules would not increase greatly the expenses on the products of a factory.
Upon pricing a lot of horses and mules which passed over the bridge while we were at the Salto, it was found they could be bought from twenty-five dollars a head to forty dollars a head, but none of them were above medium quality and many quite inferior.
In passing through the city of Itu we were shown an establishment in which an eighteen-saw cotton-gin was moved by a portable steam-engine; and there was in the building a thirty-saw gin idle which might have been brought into operation by the same power. There was also a small press in use, and I counted ten hands of various sizes employed around these little contrivances.
Mr. Auburtin was much interested in this cotton-cleaning and packing, as he is desirous of getting information as to the extent and nature of the attention bestowed upon the culture and treatment of the cotton in this and the neighboring sections.
It is important for the railroad interest that cotton shall be successfully cultivated in this region of country; and this gentleman, with others connected with the company, have done much in placing seed in the hands of planters and in encouraging the growth of this staple. His visit now, so far as I learn, has for its object the ascertaining of the wants of the planters with a view to facilitating their growth of cotton; and, as Major Meriwether has given him the benefit of his large experience in growing this staple in the Southern States, he may be able to enlighten the people of Brazil somewhat in his next article.
A number of gentlemen, among whom were two brothers of the Minister of Agriculture, accompanied our party this afternoon to the quarry (lapidarea) of flagstone within a mile of the city. There is an inexhaustible bed of crude slate, of which the pavements of Itu present fine specimens; and it is so firm that horses pass along the side-walks without damage. The slabs in the quarry may be made of any proportions desired, from the tile of a house-top to massive steps and columns. It is so smooth and regular as to require no polishing. While at the quarry we saw a huge block raised from the mass beneath by simply inserting crow-bars between the adjacent lamina of the stone. Different strata present different thicknesses of these lamina, suited to different objects.
The city of Itu is made up to a large extent by the residence of parties who own planting interests in the country around, and many of them owning houses here spend most of their time upon their fazendas, so that the population is not usually proportionate to the number of the houses. The buildings upon the main plaza have a fine appearance, with iron railings in many instances to the second-story balconies, which are ornamented with tasteful figures, gilding, &c. I am informed that a good dwelling may be rented here, with garden, fruit trees, &c., for less than a hundred dollars a year; and the health of the location has a widespread reputation. The people seen about this place have a genteel look, and are generally neatly dressed, which bespeaks a favorable feature of the society and the character of the inhabitants.
Our old friend the Baron presented each of our party with ear-picks and tooth-picks made by himself from the native wood of the country, and showed us a very old plain knife which was the only instrument used in making them. This may be considered the baron’s amusement, and by giving them to his friends he establishes a very close link of association, as these two articles are more directly personal than almost any thing else we use.
By the way, the habit of placing tooth-picks upon the table to be used after eating is a common usage of the best people throughout all this country; and the fancy stands for holding the wooden tooth-picks are generally of china, but very frequently of silver, and representing a peacock or other fowl.
Our energetic old friend, the Baron, being apprised of our wish to make an early move, gave us breakfast at 6 o’clock. For this we should doubtless feel under special obligations to his two daughters, who are inmates of the house at present. One is the wife of Senor Barros, at São Paulo, from whom I brought a letter to the Baron, and with whom I had travelled in the diligence in my first trip from Santos. The other daughter is a widow whose husband died a few years since.
These ladies present an intelligent expression, and not only graced the table with their presence on previous occasions, but even at this extra early hour.
Taking our leave of this pleasant family we set out for Porto Feliz, sixteen miles distant.
The lands on this route are quite thin, but the cotton is found to give a fair yield; and many farmers, who could barely support their families formerly, have, by the cultivation of cotton, realized a good return. Our friend Mr. Auburtin has the credit of saving them from starvation by introducing the cotton seed into the country; and, as an old minister of the gospel told an abolitionist in by-gone years, that the negroes of the South were fed on cotton seed, so I tell him it is with these people. The amount and quality of the grass in this region does not warrant grazing farms, and yet the cattle seen on the roadside were generally in good order.
We reached the town of Porto Feliz at 11 o’clock A. M., and were hospitably received by Senor Angilo Custodo de Morais, who is a substantial and plain gentleman of much kindness of heart.
The houses here are extended upon one street for half a mile, and mostly one-story buildings, without much taste in their structure. The church is a large building of less antiquated style than most of those seen elsewhere, and, with a spacious open plaza in front of it, presents the most comely feature of the place.
We were informed that the best and most commodious houses in the town could be rented for three dollars or four dollars per month, and living in other respects is doubtless equally cheap. I observed in one store a very full assortment of all the variety of goods and utensils that are ordinarily found in one of our promiscuous country-stores, and on pricing various articles concluded that every thing was quite as cheap as in the United States.
Having need for some medicine to give Mr. Bennaton, I went to a druggist’s shop and was surprised to see the variety and cheapness of the various standard articles of the materia medica that are in common use.
The population is about fifteen hundred, and the health is said to be very good.
The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded to take a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I could not resist it even when on my feet.
We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.
The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities, nor did we see any other fish at this place.
We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of Bahia, and I learn that there are many people in that section having a large admixture of the African blood.
The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark hue in most instances.
Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot sun or the tropical climate.
In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro element.
Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast, but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh eggs, would be acceptable.
Having disposed of the fresh eggs, &c., we set out for Epanema, and had considerable difficulty in ferreting out the paths in the absence of a guide who had engaged to conduct us to this place.
Some of the lands on this route of twenty miles were very good and yet were not under cultivation; while more inferior lands were planted in corn and cotton, with moderately good results.
In one instance, where the more fertile soil had been cleared and planted, the weeds and bushes had outgrown the corn, so as to lead to the abandonment of the crop; and it really looks as if the richness of the soil, which gives trouble to keep the land clear, becomes a reason for not cultivating it. There is a strange want of energy among the common people of this country; and whatever requires much labor, even to attain the best results, does not suit their habits.
In all this region, where coffee cannot be grown successfully, the planters are engaging in the culture of cotton, and with some there is quite a mania on the subject, so that breadstuffs are likely to be neglected as formerly with us.
We reached the iron-works at Epanema about 11 o’clock A. M., and the present superintendent, Senor Dom Joaquim de Sonsa Mursa, extended a cordial welcome to our party. His wife is a German lady, of fine appearance and much intelligence, who speaks English; and by her kind attention to our comfort made us feel quite at home. The large house was clean and neat in all its parts, and her table was very creditable to her skill as a housekeeper.
In looking around the old structures of this vast establishment for working iron, it is a matter of surprise that all should have been suffered to go to wreck. The gentleman who has now undertaken the restoration of the iron-works has a task imposed upon him which requires an energy and tact independent of scientific attainments; and there are practical difficulties which are not likely to be overcome while the place continues under the auspices of the Brazilian government.
There is a mountain of iron ore of superior quality which must furnish material to any desired extent for all future time. An inexhaustible supply of limestone is likewise near at hand to furnish the requisite flux, besides affording lime of an excellent quality. Sandstone is likewise found in abundance near the works, and is now being used to face the furnaces that are being refitted. In addition to these articles a quarry of slate or flagstone is located in close proximity.
There is also a large amount of good timber growing upon the mountain-slopes belonging to this property, which may be used for making charcoal to be employed in the furnaces.
The lands are of prime quality, being the best description of terra rocha upon the slopes adjacent to the vast reservoir of iron ore.
Under proper cultivation the soil here is suited to produce every thing to the best advantage; and would yield all the provisions that could be required by any number of operatives that would be necessary for the successful working of the place.
A number of negroes, most of whom are now very old, some cattle, and horses, and mules, belonging to the government, are here under the charge of Major Dias Albuquerque, who resides at the works, and has been the agent of the government for several years, simply keeping the property together without accomplishing any thing towards arresting the decay of buildings and machinery.
It is a magnificent ruin; and one feels like he had been transplanted to some vast relic of the ancients, to witness such immense resources lying in a state of entire disorder and neglect.
This place was put in operation more than fifty years ago, and at one time did a large business; but was subsequently discontinued, and some of the machinery was removed to be sent to another iron mine in the province of Matto-Grosso. This never reached its destination, and lies useless at some, point from which it is now impracticable to have it returned.
The site labors under a great difficulty in its isolated position and want of transportation. But the resources for producing the iron rail for a road would warrant the erection of a rolling-mill, to prepare the means of building a line of communication to some eligible point, and it would be well for some enterprising capitalists to seriously examine the advantages of a contract for these works, with a view to a permanent occupation.
In visiting the various points we were supplied with riding animals; and Mr. Bennaton will be furnished here with two mules of the government to expedite our farther exploration of the country.
All of us had comfortable quarters for the night, and Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether slept in a large bed, over which a crown was suspended, in which the Emperor slept upon the occasion of his visit to this establishment some years ago.
Being supplied with breakfast, consisting in part of fresh milk and butter of superior make, our party left Epanema at 7 o’clock this morning and rode twelve miles to Sorocaba.
The greater part of the route lies through campo lands of the dark red order, having a hard and dry-looking grass that is not eaten much by stock, and here and there a few clumps of trees known as camponia, such as are left in a rocky place of a field.
Upon reaching the town we were received at the house of Senor Coronel Manoel Lopez Oliveiro, to whom Mr. Auburtin had a letter from the President of the province. He was so much occupied with his cordial reception that he did not introduce the rest of us until requested to do so by Mr. Bennaton. So goes the world!
Mr. Auburtin being the honored guest, was assigned a suite of rooms alone; and the other four of us were quartered together in an apartment of the same size, but all were very comfortably provided for in every respect.
This gentleman is a man of large means, and has two cotton-gins with steam-power in the city, where he prepares for the market not only the yield of his own fazenda but a large amount purchased in the seed. He seems under some special obligation to Mr. Auburtin for introducing his cotton to favorable notice in England.
The explosion of a few rockets, and the ringing of the church bells at midnight, in commemoration of the birth of our Saviour, is the only indication we have had here of Christmas. The only thing to attract attention is the suspension of the ordinary avocation of life, and every one seems to wear rather a serious aspect, than to indulge in any hilarity or festivities on the occasion.
We walked out before breakfast to deliver some letters of introduction to parties in the town, but none of them were found, excepting Dom Oliveiro, who treated us very courteously, and tendered us any assistance in his power. We called also upon Senor Carlos Tolemei, who manifested great readiness to aid us, inviting all to his house to-night. Coffee had been served before going out, and we did not get breakfast until ten o’clock, which was accompanied by tea and cakes, as has been done at some other places, instead of coffee and milk.
We all rode out with Colonel Lopez to-day, to visit his plantation, and found cotton, corn and beans, all growing together upon the same ground. There is no regard for rows in planting any of these articles, and the stand of cotton is in some parts a little deficient, but in the main average; the growth is good, and the number of bolls upon the advanced portion is large. Some of the cotton has been planted this season, but another portion has been cut off from the growth of last season, and is springing up again very luxuriantly. The crop gives evidence of good culture with the hoe, and is quite free from grass or weeds, but the cotton must suffer by mixture with corn and beans. The soil, is dark and loose, with an admixture of large gravel, making it very liable to wash, and hence the absence of the plough in its culture is rather advantageous than otherwise, and more especially as there are many steep hills under cultivation. This land corresponds more to some of the cotton lands of the up-country in Georgia than any territory I have seen in Brazil.
Senor Carlos rode out with us, and invited the party to visit his cotton-gin, moved by water-power, a few miles from town, but time did not permit. Besides these, there is also a cotton-gin in the town moved by steam, which is owned by Senor Machado.
We were visited this afternoon by Dom Oliveiro, Dom Americo, Delegado of Police, and Municipal Judge, and Senor José Leite Pintead, who proposed that we should remain for an entertainment by the citizens, but our motto being “duty before pleasure,” it could not be accepted.
Dr. Vas, of Campinas, called also to see us, being here on a trip of recreation. He informs me that Settequéda has gone to Jahu, to purchase a fazenda in that section, which is the first point of our exploration of those lands.
The visit to the house of Senor Carlos was enjoyed by all very much. His wife performs skilfully on the piano, and he sings admirably well. Beer and champagne were served with other refreshments.
Sorocaba contains about five thousand inhabitants, and was formerly a great mart for mules, there being eighty thousand sold here in a single season. It is very healthy, and there is but one physician in the entire district to meet all the needs of the people.
The city is located upon the Rio Sorocaba, from which it doubtless derives its name.
There is a factory here of fancy whips, that is somewhat famous throughout the province, and many of the ladies receive presents of Sorocaba riding-whips from those who wish to pay them a compliment. The structure of the whip is most elaborate, being plated with material of different colors, and a part of the larger end interwoven with fine pieces of the quills of the porcupine. The butt of the whip is covered with silver, and has a silver chain with some ornament attached to it, while there are two or three bands of silver on the stock.
At the same place will be found also fancy bridles, trimmed with silver; belts of most fantastic style; girth of rare patterns; cruppers of every variety, and saddle cloths, which are intended to be very ornamental on the animal.
To appreciate the importance of this class of articles, it is requisite to understand that many people here lay great stress upon their outfit for riding, and the style differs materially from that which we have been accustomed to see. The bridles are made in this establishment by platting a number of thongs of raw-hide into a flat or round form, which constitute the headstall and reins of the bridle, with sundry silver rings at different points of each.
Where the reins unite at the hand there are two rings, secured together by a small strap, and from each of these extends loose ends of some two feet in length, which may be used for whipping or for securing the animal. Martingales are very seldom used in this country.
Having exhausted the resources of the place by our observations, we left Sorocaba at eight o’clock this morning, after being supplied with a cup of coffee and some biscuits by our host.
Our passage through dreary campo lands for three leagues (twelve miles) brought us to Campo Largo, which is a very comely little village of the mud-built type. Proceeding from this some miles, we began to observe the slopes on our right under cultivation, with a number of neat settlements along the lower part of the hills, which continued for a considerable distance on our course.
The rain fell heavily at one time, but we had the good fortune to have a house for protection, having stopped to examine some mules.
We stopped for the night at Capello de Alto, and soon found that a pile of pea vines had to be our bed, while there were no knives and forks to eat with. A can of my tomatoes assisted in making out the grub, and with collards, beans, farina and stewed chicken, we made a very substantial repast, this being the only meal of the day.
My blanket and pillow, which had been of little use heretofore, came now into requisition, and the others used their overcoats for bedding.
The proprietor of this establishment was evidently well satisfied with the outfit of his house, and we all thought him the most independent-looking personage we had met. He was attired in white cotton pants or drawers, with a short shirt of the same material outside. Having a large goatee, and long, uncombed hair, he cut a figure.