CHAPTER I.—Ancient and Mediæval Cookery compared with the Cookery of the last Half Century.
Garum—Pilau seasoned with garum, 2. The Feast of Trimalchio in Petronius, 2. Macrobius’s description of a supper given by Lentulus, 2. Hedge hogs, raw oysters, and asparagus, and purple shell-fish, 2. Panes picences, 2. Greeks and Romans children in preparation of viands, 3. Carème’s opinion, 3. Cookery a practical art, 3. Characteristics of ancient and modern cookery, 4. The Monks, 4. Spanish cookery book of Ruberto de Nola, 4. Leo X., Raphael, Guido, Baccio, Bandinelli, and John of Bologna, 5. Italian wars under Charles VIII. and Louis XII., 5. Cookery under Henry III. became Italian, 6. Cookery under Henry IV., 6. The cabaret, 7. Maître queux cuisiniers porte-chapes, 7. First regular cookery book in France printed in 1692, 7. The “Dons de Comus,” 9. Preface written by Father Brumoy, 9. Brumoy’s comparison between ancient and modern cookery, 10. Idea of a perfect cook, 10. “Lettre d’un Pâtissier Anglais,” 11. Mrs. Rundell, 12. “La Science du Maître d’Hôtel Cuisinier,” 12. Carème, 13. Molière, 13. St. Evremond, 14. Lavardin, 15. The Regent Orleans, 15. The Duchess of Berri, 15. Filets de volaille à la Bellevue, 16. Poulets à la Villeroy, 16. Chartreuse à la Mauconseil, 16. Vol au vent à la Nesle, 16. Poularde à la Montmorency, 16. Louis XV., 17. Marquis de Béchamel, 18. Marshals Richelieu and Duras, Duke of La Vallière, the Marquis de Brancas, and Count de Tessé, 18. Consumption of pheasants in the kitchens of the Prince de Condé, 18. Louis XVI., 19. His enormous appetite, 19. Effects of Revolution on cookery, 19. Cardinal Caraffa, 20. Montaigne, 20. Restaurants, 21. Suppers of Madame du Deffand, 22. Dinners of D’Holbach, 22. Pic-nics of Crawford of Auchinames, 22. The epicure Barras, 23. Danton’s love of morels, 23. Barras’ love of button mushrooms, 23. Napoleon’s dinners, 23. M. de Bausset, M. de Cussy, Cambacères, Talleyrand, 25. The “Almanach des Gourmands,” 26. Purge your cooks, 28. Frog dressing at Riom, 28. Veal of Pontoise, 29. Gastaldy and the salmon, 29. Flesh killed by electricity, 30. Asses’ flesh, 30. White grease of the fig-pecker, 31. Beauvilliers, 31. Brillat Savarin, 31. Consumption of turkeys, 32. The Archbishop of Bordeaux and truffled turkeys, 33. The “Cuisinière Bourgeoise,” 33. Fauche Borel, 33. “Cuisinier Royal,” 33. Shakespeare, Age of Elizabeth, 34. Age of Anne, Wycherly, Vanbrugh, Congreve, Pope, 34. Foote’s farce, 35. Bills of fare in Pope’s day, 36. The “Queen’s Closet Opened,” 36. The “Treasure of Hidden Secrets,” 37. The “Gentleman’s Companion;” Dr. Hill, “Mrs. Glasse,” 37. The “Connoisseur,” 39. White’s, Pontacs’, Dolly’s and Horsman’s, 39. The “Art of Cookery,” by a lady, 39. The “Epicure’s Almanack,” 40. The “Cook and Confectioner’s Dictionary,” 40. Mrs. Dalgairns, 40. Scott’s “Dictionary of Cookery,” Kitchener’s “Cook’s Oracle,” 41. The “Housekeeper’s Oracle,” 41. Ude, 42. Walker’s “Original,” 42. “Domestic Cookery,” by a lady, 45. Carème, 47. Turtle soup, 48. Cookery of England and France, 50.
CHAPTER II.—On Modern Cookery and Cookery Books.
The object of sensible people should be to adopt all that is good in the cookery of France, 61. French potages and purées, 61. The gigot à l’ail aux haricots, 62. The filet de bœuf, 62. Vatel, La Chapelle, Grimod de la Reynière, Beauvilliers, Ude, Laguipierre, Carème, and Plumeret, 65.
CHAPTER III.—On Dinners and Dinner-giving.
Jules Janin, 66. Dr. Johnson, 66. Sydney Smith, 67. Apicius, 67. Nonnius, 67. Lémery, 68. Dr. Lister, 68. Dr. Kitchener, 68. Drs. Pereira and Lankester, 68. London dinners, 69. The finer cuisine bourgeoise of Paris, 69. The majority of Frenchmen thrifty, 70. Bankers’ and financiers’ dinners, 70. French punctuality, 72. The London season, 73. Difference between grand dinners in England and France, 74. Pretentious and costly rivalry in dinners, 76. Hints to dinner-givers, 78. Number of a company, 79. Expensive cookery, 81. The pot-au-feu, 82. Carème’s consommés, 82. French sauces, 82. Soles à la Normande, 82. Omelette aux fines herbes, 82. Choice of company, 84. Italian cookery, ices, and confectionery, 85. Spanish and German cookery, 85. Dutch cookery, 88. Dutch eel soup, 88. Flushing soup, 88. Russian cookery, 89. Turkish and Indian cookery, 89.
CHAPTER IV.—On Laying out a Table.
Dinners à la Russe, 91. Two and three courses, 94, 95. The dessert, 97. Memorandum as to dinners, 97.
CHAPTER V.—How to Choose Fish, Flesh, Fowl, and Game.
Salmon in and out of season, 98. How to choose various fish, 98–109. How to choose venison, 109. Mutton, 111. Lamb, veal, and pork, 112, 113. Bacon and hams, 114, 115. Poultry, game, eggs, cheese, and butter, 115–122.
CHAPTER VI.—On Soups and Broths.
Grand bouillon, 124. Rules for making nourishing broth, 125. How to make a stock-pot, 126. Celery to flavour soup, 129. Broth, 130. The great English soups and broths, 131. Carème and turtle soup, 133. Stocks for white soup, 133. French soups, 134. Purée à la Reine, des carottes au riz, de lapins, à la Chantilly, &c., 134. Soup for winter and spring months, 135.
CHAPTER VII.—How to Clean and Boil Fish.
To clean cod-fish, 137. Pilchards, mackerel, and plaice, 138. Red mullets, skate, and ling, 139. On boiling fish, 143, 144.
CHAPTER VIII.—On Fish.
Fish naturally most voracious, 145. As a diet wholesome and palatable, 146. Fish rarely served as an entrée in England, 146. Various ways of serving turbot in France, 146–7. Turbot of Mediterranean, 148. Sturgeon, 148. Caviare, 149. French modes of dressing sturgeon, 149. Modes of dressing sturgeon in England, 149. Sturgeon à la Napoleon, according to Carème, 150. American sturgeon soup, 150. Salmon, 151. French mode of dressing salmon, 151. Nonnius on salmon, 152. Cod-fish, 152. Galen on haddock, 152. Nonnius and Pliny on haddock, 152. The sole, 153. French modes of dressing, 153. Red mullet, 154. Red mullet en caisse, and à la Cardinale, 154. John Dory and lamprey, 154. Quin, the actor, 154. Receipts for dressing lamprey, 155. The Reformation and fish diet, 155. Carème on lenten diet and Murat’s kitchen, 155. Fish dinners in Paris, 157. Dinner at the Rocher de Cancale, 1828, 157. Wine at 14 frs. and 25 frs. the bottle, 158–9.
CHAPTER IX.—The Roast.
Definition of roast, 160. Rôtisseries, 161. Rôtisseurs, 161. The traiteur, 161. The cuisinier traiteur, 161. The maître cuisiniers, 162. The art of roasting, 162. The best joint for roasting, 163. Doing to a turn, 164. Good roasters rarer than good cooks, 164. Great and little roast, 164. English, roasting, 165. Our game finer than the French, 165. Swift’s lines on mutton, 166. Rules for roasting pork, lamb, veal, and poultry, 167. Table of time for roasting, 169.
CHAPTER X.—Boiling.
Rule as to boiling, 170. Advantage of slow boiling, 172. Time required to boil poultry, 173. Frying, 173.
CHAPTER XI.—Poultry.
Definition of poultry, 174. Requisites in a poultry yard, 174. Best modes of feeding and cramming poultry, 175. Wholesomeness of poultry, 175. Lémery on fowls and capons, 176–7. How the fine flavour is given to the poularde du Mans, 178. The barn-door fowl described by Berchoux, 179. Roast and boiled fowl and turkey, 180. Ways of serving fowls and turkeys in France, 180. Entrées of fowl in France, 180–1. Schools of cookery, 181. Christmas consumption of turkeys in England and France, 181. Truffles with turkey, 181. Chaptal on fowls, 182. Pros and cons for a dinde aux truffes, 182. Were turkeys known to the ancients? 183. Madame de Sévigné on capons, 183. The crammer of fowls an officer of the royal household, 184. Blackbirds and thrushes, 184.
CHAPTER XII.—Game and Pastry.
Definition of game, 186. Keeper and taker of pheasants, 186. Swanherd, 186. 17 Hen. VIII., falconry, 187. Cookery Book of Taillevant, cook to Charles VII.; receipts for dressing herons, 187. Vultures, eagles, and falcons, eaten three centuries ago, 188. Game in Spain, partridges à la Medina Cœli, 189. Sautés, filets, and recondite modes of dressing game in France, 190. Filets and cutlets of hare and rabbit, 191. Pastry and cold entrées, 191. Carème on pastry, 192. Suggestions as to patties and pastry, 193. Pâtisserie, 194. Larks of Pithiviers, 194. Partridges of Perigueux, 194. Poulardes of Angers, 194. Foies gras of Versailles, 194. Foies d’oies of Strasbourg and Toulouse, 194. The Chancellor de l’Hôpital on petits pâtés, 194.
CHAPTER XIII.—Cheese and Salads.
Soft and rich cheeses the best, 196. Stilton and Gruyère, 196. Best English cheeses, 196. Best cheeses in France, 198. Roquefort, 198. Gruyère, 198. Italian cheeses introduced into France in the reign of Charles VIII., 199.
CHAPTER XIV.—On Salad.
John Evelyn “On Salets,” 202. Fournitures of salads, 202. Chicorée, 203. Winter salads, 203. Roman or Coss lettuce, 204. Hotchpotch salads, 204. Salade à l’italienne, 204. Carème’s salade de poulets à la Reine, 204. Wine vinegar to be used for salads, 206. Chaptal’s receipt for dressing salad, 206. Sydney Smith’s ditto, 206–7. Spanish proverb as to salad, 207. D’Albignac a famous salad-dresser, 208. Eleven salads of the time of Champier, 210–11. Dr. Roques’ salad of asparagus, 211. Quickness with which asparagus may be cooked, 211. Napoleon’s salad of haricots de soissons, 212.
CHAPTER XV.—The Dessert.
Carème’s opinion of dessert, 213. La Chapelle’s opinion of dessert, 214. Forced cherries sent from Poitevins, in 1560, to Paris, 215. La Quintinié, head gardener of Louis XIV., served strawberries in March, peas in April, and figs in June, 215. Preserved pines at dessert in Paris, in 1694, 215. Italian liqueur prepared from the pine, 215. Dates, 216. Tunisian dates the best, 216. Oranges, 216. Fondness of Louis XIV. for, 216. Portuguese oranges, 217. Sweet citron, carried by ladies, to produce red lips, 217. Figs common at dessert in France 270 years ago, 217. Fig-trees placed in wooden boxes by the gardener of Louis XIV., 218. Figs at Worthing and Hampton Court, 218. Pomegranates, 218. Chestnuts, 219. Madame de Sévigné on chestnuts, 219. Cherries, 220. Apricots, 220. The reine claude, or greengage, 221. The peaches of Corbeil, of Troyes and, Dauphiné, 222. Pêches de vigne, 223. Abricots en plein vent, 223. The New-town pippin, 223. Golden pippin, 223. The paradis de Provence, 223. The capendu, 223. Pears and their different species, 224. Gooseberries, 224–5. The chasselas of Fontainbleau, and other grapes, 225. Strawberries and their varieties, 226. Trois mendiants, 227. Olives of Provence and Languedoc, 227. Gingerbread, 228. The drageoir, 229. Brandied fruits and compotes, 229. Brillat Savarin on the dessert, 230. Melon eaten with bouilli, 231. Madame de Sévigné on melons, 232.
CHAPTER XVI.—On Ices.
Ices, 233. Turks had glacières in 1553, 233. Henry III. first introduced ice, 233.
CHAPTER XVII.—Coffee.
Coffee, 235. Drank in Paris in 1657, 235. Praises of coffee by Rousseau, Buffon, Voltaire, Montesquieu, Delille, and Lebrun, 236. The retreat from Russia and coffee, 237. Twining’s coffee, 238. Brillat Savarin on pounded and ground coffee, 238. The best coffee in Paris, though the finest qualities in the London market, 240. Modes of making coffee, 241–3. Coffee sweetmeats, 242. Dr. Roques’ café à la creme frappé de glace, 243. Coffee should be hot, clear, and strong, 244. Tea, 244.
CHAPTER XVIII.—On different Liqueurs, Ratafias, and Elixirs, taken after Coffee.
Liqueurs, 245. Alkermes and rossolis, 245. Liqueurs of Batavia’, Jamaica, Martinique, and Montpelier, 246. Ratafias; absinthe, noyau, and curaçoa, 246. Eau d’or and eau de vie de Dantzic, 247. Patin on rossolis, 248. Madame Théanges and liqueurs, 248. La fenouillette and other lawful liqueurs, 249. Liqueurs of Montpelier and Lorraine, 249. Lémery on black currant ratafia, 250. Liqueurs of French West Indies, 251. L’huile de Venus, 252. Cinnamon water, crême de girofle, curaçoa, usquebaugh, &c., 253. Eau cordiale of Colladon, 254. Eau de vie d’Andaye, 254. Eau divine, cordiale du chasseur nuptiale, 257. Anisette and absinthe, 257. Cherry bounce, rum and pine-apple shrub, 257. Petit lait de Henri IV., l’eau des braves, l’huile de Vénus, le parfait amour, l’eau virginale, &c., 259. Adulterations of liqueurs, 260. German liqueurs; Pomeranzen, Wackholder, Kummel, &c., 260–61. Jean de Milan on liqueurs, 262. Famous cities for liqueurs in France, 262.
CHAPTER XIX.—Ale, Beer, Cider, and Perry.
Bass’s, Allsopp’s, and Guinness’s ale and stout, 263. Cider, its origin and history, 264. Cocky Gee, 265. Perry and hydromel, 266. Different kinds of beer, 267. The zythus and curmi of the Egyptians, 267. Fifteen hundred years ago the Parisians commenced with beer, and finished with wine, 268. The descent from wine to beer in France, 270. The French beer called godale, 271. The beer of Cambrai, of Bavaria, of Berlin, and of Brussels, 272. Beer should be light, brisk, and sparkling, 273. Forty brewers in Paris 120 years ago, 273. Seventy years ago but twenty-three, of whom Santerre the most celebrated, 273. Epitaph on Santerre, 273. English and Scotch brewers flocked to Paris at the peace in 1815, 273. In seasons of dearth Paris brewers forbidden to make beer, 274.
CHAPTER XX.—On Wines, Ancient and Modern.
Lord Bacon, Bacci, Barry, Redding, Shaw, and Denman on wines, 275, 276. Hippocrates on vinous mixtures, 276. Plato and Homer’s praises of wine, 277. Virgil, Pliny, and Columella on wines, 278. The Setine wine commended by Martial, Juvenal, and Silius Italiens, 278. Sand, powdered marble, and salt water added to ancient wines, 279. Cato’s receipt for artificial Chian and Falernian, 279. The Cæcuban, 280. The Falernian, 280. Galen and Martial on Falernian, 280. Virgil on the vinum Rhæticum, 281. The lighter wines of the Roman territory, 281. The earliest Greek wines, 281. The Thrasian and Cretan wines, 282. Greeks familiar with Asiatic and African wines, 282. Greeks drank wine diluted with water, 282. Athenæus on the πεντε και δυο, 283. The Greeks had casks, 283. Gauls knew the use of wine six centuries before Christianity was introduced, 283. Athenæus calls the wine of Marseilles good, 286. The Allobroges mixed pitch with wine, 286. Dioscorides says pitch is a necessary ingredient in Gaulish wine, 286. Secret as to the Bordelais wine, 287. The Marseillaise boiled their wine, 287. Horace and Tibullus on the smoking of wine, 288. Baccius on the wines of Alsace, 288. Domitian publishes an order for rooting up one half of the vines in some provinces, and for destroying them in others, 289. This order abrogated by Probus, 289. The Roman legions spread in Gaul employed in replanting the vine, 289. The Salique law, and law of the Visigoths, as to the cutting of the vine and stealing grapes, 290. Vine property regarded as sacred, 290. Tribute decreed by Chilperic, 290. Massacre of the officer who was to levy the tribute, 290. Passion for the culture of the vine among French kings, 290. Wine-presses and utensils for making wine in all the palaces, 290. Charlemagne and his Capitularies, 290. The Louvre enclosed vineyards within its precincts, 290. “La Bataille des Vins,” a fabliau of the thirteenth century, 291. Philip Augustus had vineyards in many districts of France, 291. Wines of Guyenne sold in Flanders and England, 291. Matthew Paris, on the sale of Gascony wine in England, 292. Froissart on the number of merchantmen that arrived at Bordeaux from England, A.D. 1372, 292. Champier as to the consumption of French wine and corn in England, 292. Charles IX. proscribed the vine in 1566, 292. His ordonnance respecting it, 293. In 1577 Henry III. modifies this ordonnance, 293. Louis XV, in 1731, forbade any new plantation of vines, 293. Origin of the expression, vendre à pot, 293. Adulterations 1800 years ago as frequent as now, 294. The ancients understood the maturing of wines, 294. Customs survive forms of polity and government, 294. Identity of the amphoræ to vessels in present use at Asti, Montepulciano, and Montefiascone, 295. Use of casks unknown to Greeks and Romans, 295. Romans employed glass, but a rude glass, 296. Invention of casks due to the Gauls, 296. Ordonnance of Charlemagne as to employment of barrels, 297. The άβαξ or abacus, 297. Misquotation of Barry as to abaci, 297. The ancients had servants like our butlers, 297. Business of the οἱνοπτης, 298. The cup-bearer and pourer out of wine, 298. Cicero’s description of a supper, &c., 298–9. Deep drinkers of a congius or gallon, 299. Cooling of wine by snow not a modern invention, 299. Pliny ascribes it to Nero, 299. Drinking of healths to absent friends, 299. Extract from Henderson as to the manner of pledging friends and drinking healths, 300. Analogy between the French and Greeks as to mixing wine and water, 300. The vin d’entremets; the wine for oysters and roast meat, 300. The coup-d’avant and du milieu, 300. The coup du milieu, according to the “Manuel des Amphitryons,” 301. Wormwood, Jamaica rum, or old cognac used for it, 301. Practice at Bordeaux in this respect, 301. The coup-d’avant used in Russia, Sweden, and Germany, 302. The coup-d’apres, what, 302. Wine used for it, 302. Wine cellars of the ancients, 303. Precautions as to cellar, 303. Women forbidden to enter the cellars of the ancients, 303. Principles of the ancients as to cellars, 303. An ante-cellar advisable, 304. Salt used in cellars, 305. The ancients more effectually preserved their wines than the moderns, 305. Wine better tasted in quarts than in pints, 305. Ancient rules for site of cellars, and on time for tasting and racking, still sanctioned by practice, 305. Wine of middle age best and most grateful, 305. Fancy prices paid for old wines, 306. No one obliged to drink on compulsion among the ancients, 306. Irish practice, 306. Some ancient sages great bibbers, but unexcited, 306. Cyrus a larger drinker than Artaxerxes, and therefore, in his own thinking, worthier of the crown, 306. Darius’s capacity of drinking, 307. Hippocrates rarely directs water, but almost invariably wine mixed with water, 307. Cornaro before and after a new vintage, 307. His plan of preserving his health, 308. Effect of fresh sugar-canes on mules, 308. Pitching ancient and modern wines, 308. Monster puncheons in Latium and Germany, 309–10. The French constructed their wine-vats in brick or stone, 310. Pierre de Blois’s denunciation of the luxury of the twelfth century, 310. Repast of Philippe de Valois and his leathern bottles, 311. Wine supplied by a miracle, 311. The tanners of Amiens obliged to furnish the bishop with two leathern bottles, 312. The derivation of the word bottle, 312. The name afterwards applied to decanters, 312. Charles VI., according to Froissart, was supplied with wine out of leathern bottles, 312. Gregory of Tours speaks of the wines of Maçon, Orleans, Cahors, and Dijon, 313. Wines of Rheims and Marne mentioned in a letter of Pandulus, 313. Henry I. and the wine of Rébréchien, 313. Louis le Jeune and the wine of Orleans, 313. Wines of Auxerre, Beaune, &c., 314. Wine of Chabli, Epernai, Rheims, &c., 314. The popes drank Beaune at Avignon, 314. The queen of Louis XII. sent Beaune to the ambassadors of the Emperor Maximilian at Blois, 314. Caprice in the estimate of wine, 315. Wine of Romanée Conti, 315. Wine of Mantes carried to Persia uninjured, 316. Burgundy and Champagne in the fifteenth century, 316. Leo X., Charles V., Francis I., and Henry VIII., had vineyards in Champagne, 316. Erasmus and Burgundy wine, 316. Champier on the excellence of French wines, 317. Rabelais vaunts Auxerre wine, 317. Canteperdrix wine, 317. This wine sent to Rome for the pope, 317. Canteperdrix wine now known as the vin de Beaucaire, 317. Favourite beverage of Henry IV., 318. Paumier on the colours of wine, 318. Wines of Château Thierry gout producing, 319. Gout does not come from Champagne, 319. Baccius on the wines of France, 319–20. Paumier on the wines of Paris, 320. Liebaut and Patin on wines, 320. The vin de Condrieux, 321. The manner of making Orleans wines, 321. Boileau on the wine of Orleans, 322. Vin de Grave, mentioned in 1550, 322. Why the wine is called Grave, 323. The Haut-Brion, 323. Hermitage, 323. Hermitage of Lord Castlereagh, afterwards Marquis of Londonderry, 323. Hermitage divided into five classes, 323. Prices of Hermitage, 324. How the Burgundy wines got their reputation, 325. The vin de Tonnerre, 325. The Abbé de Marolles’ list of Burgundy wines, 325. The wine of Olivotte, 326. The vin de Chablis for oysters, 326. Vin de Pouilly and Bucellas good with oysters, 326. Difficulty of transporting Burgundy, 327. Extent of Burgundy vineyards, 328. Arthur Young on the vineyards, 328. Mr. James Busby on the Burgundy vineyards, 329. Clos Vougeot, 329. The late notorious Ouvrard, 330. Père Perignon and the wines of Hautvilliers, 330. Sparkling Burgundy and Moselle, 330. The vin de Nuits, 330. The St. George, Meursalt, and Mont Rachet, 331. Volnay the finest wine in Barry’s time, 331. The vin de Beaune, 331. The vin de Pomard, 332. Chambertin the wine of Napoleon, 332. The Romanée Conti, 333. The Maçon and Beaujolais wines, 334. Maçon a wholesome wine, 335. Adulterated at Paris, 335. Burgundy not to be iced, 335. Burgundy at the roast, 336. Champagne wine, 337. Dispute, in the time of Louis XIV., between the Burgundy doctor and the Champenois, 337. Fagon forbid the use of Champagne to Louis XIV., 337. Opinion of the faculty of the town of Rheims, 337. Colbert, a Champenois, but he did not give renown to the wines, 338. Francis I., Leo. X., Charles V., and Henry VIII. had vineyards at Aï, 338. Volnay drank at the coronation of Sobieski, 338. Beaune served at Venice to the senators after the conquest of the Morea, 338. St. Evremond on Champagne wine, 338. Champagne used in putrid fevers, 339. Millions of worthless Champagne sold at two francs and three francs the bottle, 340. Dr. Henderson on Champagne, 340. The briskest Champagne not the best, 340. Crêmants and demi-mousseux wines, 341. Sillery Champagne, 341. Vin de la Maréchale, 342. The rich, dry Sillery, 342. Champagne not a vin de garde, 342. Old Champagne, 343. Jaquesson’s cellars, 343. Champagne always improved by ice, 343. Jullien on the high price of the vins mousseux, 344. How to obtain a first-rate Champagne, 345. Hundreds of thousands of bottles of Champagne at the docks are not worth the duty, 345. When the bottling of Champagne begins, 345. Vins grand mousseux, 346. Precautions in packing Champagne for exportation, 346. Champagne for India and America packed in salt, 346. Burgundies so packed preserve their qualities, 347. Claret, 347. Château Margaux and Château Lafitte, 348. Monton and Léoville, 348. Kirwan and Château d’Issau, 348. St. Julien, Béchevelle and St. Pierre, 348. Great management in Bordeaux cellars, 349. Brandy ought to be put in in very small quantities, 349. Extract from Davies’ work on colouring Claret, 350. A freer exchange of the vinous wealth of France with England desirable, 351. Difference in price between first and inferior wines, 352. Mixture of Benicarlo and other wines with claret, 353. The age of wine at Bordeaux counted par feuilles, 353. What Barry wrote ninety years ago on Claret wines, 353. Names of the proprietors of vineyards and factors, 110 years ago, 354. Irish Claret and Irish wine merchants, 355. The Bordeaux wines celebrated in the days of Ausonius, 355. A great proportion of the wine drank as Claret is vin ordinaire, 355. Definition of the word Claret, 356. The Côte Rôti, 356–7. Hermitage and its division into five classes, 357. White Hermitage of the late Lord Castlereagh, 357. Hermitage of the late Marquis of Wellesley, 358. The cost of wine cultivation in France immense, 359. The German wines, their general character and durability, 359. Price of Rüdesheim, 359. In Barry’s day the best old Hock sold at 50l. the auhm, 360. Marcobrunner, Rüdesheimer and Niersteiner, 360. Julius Hospitalis and Liesteinwein wines, 360. Spanish wines, 360–1. Cellars and stock of Gordon and Co. of Cadiz, 361. Amontillado, 361. Port and Madeira, 362. The Italian wines, 362. The wines of Hungary, 362. The Greek wines over-rated, 363. The Constantia wine of the Cape, 363. The Russian Champagne, 363. The New South Wales wines, 363. New vintages, 364. Advice as to purchase and stock of wines, 365. Good and low-priced wine a myth, 366. Prices of wines at sales in Edinburgh and Dublin, 366. Prices of Amontillado, Montilla, and Manzinilla, 366. Fabulous prices given for old Ports and Sherries, 366. First-rate Clarets rising in price, 367. Burgundies, 367. Dietetic qualités of wine, 367. The best Burgundies and Champagnes, 368. The best Bordeaux wines, 368. Red Constantin and Frontignan, 369. Consumption of Champagne doubled in England since 1848, 369.