FAIR.

By Thomas Wainwright.

Barnstaple Fair, although now deprived of some of its ancient commercial importance by the establishment of great markets at other centres in North Devon, still attracts great numbers of purchasers of horses, Exmoor ponies, cattle, and sheep, reared by the agriculturists of the neighbourhood. Buyers attend the fair not only from all parts of Devonshire, but also from places beyond the borders of the county, among others cavalry officers come in some years to purchase horses for the military service of the country, while visitors from a wide district around the town arrive in large numbers to enjoy the “fun of the fair.”

This annual event has a very ancient history, for the claim of the town to the right to hold the fair is granted in Charters and recognized in Inquisitions from an early period, in one of which Inquisitions the jurors say that among divers liberties and free customs used and enjoyed by the burgesses of the Borough by the Charter of the Lord Athelstan, of famous memory, King of England, is the right to hold one fair in the year. The date of the fair was anciently July 21st, 22nd, 23rd, and 24th, as appears from the following regulations, which were in force for a long period:—

1st. The fair shall continue for four days, viz., on the eve and the day of the blessed Mary Magdalene and the two next days following.

2nd. The whole soil of Boutport Street and the other streets within the said Borough belongs to the Mayor and Comonaltie of the said Borough during the fair and until 12 o’clock at noon on the day afterwards.

3rd. The said Mayor and Comonaltie may set and demise the said soil one day before the eve of the said fair, and have the whole profits of the said fair and the bailiff of the said Borough shall collect and receive the same.

4th. Also they shall there have the cognizance of Pleas and a court of Pie Poudre, as incident to all fairs.

From a Lithograph]

[by J. Powell.
Queen Anne’s Walk and the Quay, Barnstaple.

The time for holding the fair was changed subsequently, probably during the reign of King James I., the new regulations being as follows:—

If the 19th of September be on a Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday, the fair shall finish on the following Saturday night, but if on either of the three subsequent days it shall be allowed to continue until Friday in the next week.

Another change was made in the year 1852, the fair being then fixed to commence on the Wednesday nearest to September 19th, and to continue for the two days following only, and this is the present regulation respecting its date and duration. By the latest arrangement the dealings in horses and ponies are limited to Thursday, the second day, the first being still devoted to the sale of cattle and sheep, and the third being par excellence the pleasure day, although the shows, swings, “horses,” and other attractions, and the stalls, do a great trade on the other days also.

The place for holding the fair has also been changed. A century ago the cattle were disposed of in Boutport Street, the horses in the North Walk, and the shows and stalls for pleasure-seekers were located in the Square. For a few years, about 1880, the cattle and sheep were placed in Victoria Road, but by the present arrangement the cattle and sheep are disposed of in the Cattle Market, the horses in the Strand, and the pleasure-seekers find their shows and other attractions in the North Walk. It has already been mentioned that the cattle and sheep now sold, though still many, are not so many as in the old days when Barnstaple fair was the only event of the kind in North Devon. In the year 1824, it was recorded that 1,440 bullocks were driven in by the northern entrance into the town, over Pilton Bridge, of which not 300 were driven out by that road, and of these more than half were sold, and that it was calculated that £20,000 was expended in the purchase of cattle.

In the Borough Records we have accounts of the sales of horses and cattle at an early period, which are interesting as showing the mode in which security was given by the purchasers and the prices paid. The following are extracts from these records:—

Barnestaple. The register of horses and mares bought, sold and exchanged in the ffayre there holden on the feast day of the Nativitie of our blessed Virgin Mary, the 8th day of September [O.S.] in the fowerth yeare of our Sov’eigne Lord Charles, by the grace of God of England, France and Ireland King, defender of the faith, &c.

[Tolls] For every horse, mare, or colt 8d., viz., for record 4d. and for custome 2d. apiece of the buyer & seller.

For every bullock 2d., viz., 1d. a piece of the buyer and seller; for every pigg 1d. a peece; for every calf 1d. a peece.

Abraham Hearson, of Tawton, sold unto one William Earle of Biddiford, one black mare, with a hitch in the near ear, Price 33sh, John Dillon knoweth the seller.

Henry Puggesley, of Bratton, sold unto Walter Thomas, of South Malton, one little bay nagge, with a square halfpenny under the farther ear, Price 27 sh. The parties know each other.

William Blake, of Chiltenhampton sold unto John Ballamey of Stover a bay mare with a halfpenny and a slit in the neare eare. Price 43sh. 4d. Roger Blake of Chittington, knoweth the seller.

William Barber, of Instowe sold unto Thomas Axford, of Lifton one bay mare with a spade in the further eare, Price 33sh. 4d. Amos Ford knoweth the seller.

Matthewe Brooke of Clovelly sold unto John Pine of Burrington one little sorell nagge, toope cut in the neare eare & a slitt in the farther, price 54sh. 8d. Hugh Dennis Upoostree knoweth the seller.

John Bellamy of Stooerd exchanged with John Ruddicliffe of Bishopp Nimpton one pinshutt nagge colour blacke for a little blacke nagge, top cut in the farther eare & a ob, [halfpenny] in the neare. John Bellamey giveth 13sh. 4d. to boote.

Arthur Serjante of Kirchbe in Lancaster sold unto Richard Chapple of Ilfarcombe in the County of Devon one greye geldinge snipt in the bottome of both eares. Price £3 2s. 6d. The parties know each other.

Thomas England of Bristoll sold unto Richard Lyssett of Newport, one browne baye mare top cutt in the neare eare. Price 10sh.

The total number of horses disposed of at this fair was 44, while 6 were exchanged; the prices of two are not given; the remaining 36 average £2 0s. 0½d. each, the highest price paid being £4 5s. for “one bay nagge,” and the lowest 10s. for the bay mare sold by the Bristol dealer.

At fairs in other years the business done in horses was as follows:—

    Average price.
  No. of horses sold. £ s. d.
1629 39 2 9 8  
1630 97 2 9 9  
1631 60 2 19 8½ 
1632 26 2 16 2  
1633 33 3 5 0  
1634 29 2 18 0  
1635 21 2 1 10  
1636 17 2 15 7  
1637 22 2 19 1  
1638 31 2 18 0  
1639 36 2 14 0  
1641 9 2 14 5  
1642 3   —  
1643 2 1 15 6  
1647 46 4 3 4  
1648 5 2 14 0  
1649 37 3 15 10  
1650 17 4 5 8  
1651 12 3 16 0  

The absence of sales during the years 1644–46, and the small number disposed of in 1641–3, may be accounted for by the following entry in the Parish Register:—

1647. The Regester of the Towne and Burrough of Barnestaple, by the cause of the troubles and the contagion [plague] was not kept from the year anno 1642 till the year anno 1647.

The following prices were realized for cattle sold at the various fairs mentioned above:—

8 heifers, black like, price £30 10s. 0d.
2 black oxen, topp cutt on farther eare. Price £13.
2 heifers and 1 steward. Price £6 13s. 4d.
1 red ox. Price £4 3s. 4d.
2 oxen. Price £10.

The opening of the fair takes place with the ceremonies which have attended it for many generations. On the morning of the first day a large stuffed glove, fixed at the end of a pole, is displayed from a window of the Guildhall, having before the year 1852 been exhibited from the west corner of the Quay Hall, which was demolished in that year to widen the street and quay, and which had been, until the dissolution of religious houses by Henry VIII., an ecclesiastical building, known as St. Nicholas’ Chapel. In the Receiver’s accounts for 1615 occurs the entry:—

Paid for a glove put out at the fair, 4d.;

and in those for 1622:—

Paid for a paire of gloves at the faire 4d.

Another entry in the same account being:—

Paid for candles to hange by a bull that was not beaten,

from which it may be inferred that bull-baiting was one of the amusements provided for visitors. The display of the glove is usually considered to be a symbol of the welcome extended to all comers. In the Guildhall meanwhile the sergeants-at-mace are busy preparing for all comers who care to partake of it the toast and spiced ale, the latter according to a recipe handed down for centuries. With this ale are filled the handsome flagons belonging to the Corporation, and the loving cups charged from them are passed round to the assembled guests. A few toasts are then given, among them that of “The Ladies,” the response to which often affords a good deal of amusement, for humorous Mayors have been known to astonish a bachelor in the company, sometimes “a young man from the country,” by calling upon him to respond; and while some orators have passed the ordeal successfully, others have found the situation an embarrassing one. The speeches ended, and the toast and ale consumed, about noon a procession of the Mayor, Corporation, and officials is formed, and, escorted by a large crowd of on-lookers, the Town Clerk reads the following proclamation at the High Cross and other places in the Borough:—

Proclamation for the Fair.

THE MAYOR of this BOROUGH doth hereby give notice that there is a FREE FAIR within this Borough for all manner of persons to BUY and SELL within the same which fair begins on this day WEDNESDAY the         and shall continue until 12 o’clock on the night of FRIDAY next the         instant during which time the Mayor chargeth and commandeth on HIS MAJESTY’S behalf all manner of persons repairing to this TOWN and FAIR do keep the KING’S PEACE.

AND that all BUYERS and SELLERS to deal justly and truly and do use true WEIGHTS AND MEASURES and that they duly pay their TOLL, STALLAGE and other DUTIES upon pain that shall fall thereon

AND if any OFFENCES INJURY or WRONG shall be committed or done by or to any person or persons within this TOWN FAIR and LIBERTY the same shall be redressed according to JUSTICE and the LAWS of this REALM

DATED this            day of September 190

God Save the King.

In the olden time it was the custom to have a stag hunt on the second day, and the “fair ball” is still, and has long been, kept up. It was formerly the practice for many tradesmen to keep open house during the fair, of which practice some of their customers took very liberal advantage. Calling on one shopkeeper to pay a small account, they and members of their family who accompanied them would enjoy a hearty meal, and after an hour or two in the fair would repeat the proceeding with another, and sometimes with a third. This has now been put a stop to by the reduction of profits, through the competition brought about by the advent of Co-operative Societies and Companies, and other causes. Not only have the glories of Barnstaple fair been celebrated in prose, but the poet has sung of them, and this sketch may be appropriately concluded by giving one of the compositions that used to be sung:—

BARNSTAPLE FAIR.
Oh! Devonshire’s a noble county, full of lovely views, miss!
And full of gallant gentlemen, for you to pick and choose, miss!
But search the towns all round about there’s nothing can compare, miss!
In measurement of merriment, with Barnstaple Fair, miss!
Then sing of Barum, merry town, and Barum’s merry Mayor too,
I know no place in all the world old Barum to compare to!
There’s nothing happens in the year but happens at our fair, sir!
’Tis then that everything abounds, that’s either new or rare, sir!
The Misses make their start in life its gaieties to share, sir!
And ladies look for beaux and balls to Barnstaple Fair, sir!
Then sing of Barum, merry town, and Barum’s worthy Mayor too,
I know no place in all the world old Barum to compare to!
The little boys and girls at school their nicest clothes prepare, ma’am!
To walk the streets and buy sweetmeats and gingerbread so rare, ma’am!
Their prime delight’s to see the sights that ornament our square, ma’am!
When Powell brings his spangled troop to Barnstaple Fair, ma’am!
Then sing of Barum, merry town, and our indulgent Mayor too,
I know no place in all the world old Barum to compare to!
If milk be scarce though grass be plenty, don’t complain too soon, dame!
For that will very often happen in the month of June, dame!
Though cows run dry while grass runs high, you never need despair, dame!
The cows will calve, and milk you’ll have, to Barnstaple Fair, dame!
Then sing of Barum, wealthy town, and its productive Fair too,
And drink “the corporation, and the head of it, the Mayor too.”
If pigeons’ wings are plucked, and peacocks’ tails refuse to grow, friend!
In spring; you may depend upon’t in autumn they will shew, friend!
If feathers hang about your fowls in drooping style and spare, friend!
Both cocks and hens will get their pens to Barnstaple Fair, friend!
Then, friend leave off your wig, and Barum’s privileges share too,
Where everything grows once a year, wing-feathers, tails and hair, too!
If winter wear and summer dust call out for paint and putty, sir!
And Newport coals in open grates make paper-hangings smutty, sir!
And rusty shops and houses fronts most sadly want repair, sir!
Both shops and houses will be smart, to Barnstaple Fair, sir!
And Barum is a handsome town, and every day improving, sir!
Then drink to all who study its improvement to keep moving, sir!
King George the Third rode out of Staines, the hounds to lay the stag on;
But that was no great thing of sport for mighty kings to brag on;
The French, alas! go à la chasse in von po shay and pair;
But what’s all that to Button Hill? to Barnstaple Fair?
For we will all a hunting go, on horse, or mule, or mare, sir!
For everything is in the field to Barnstaple Fair, sir!
To Button Hill, whose name to all the sporting world sure known is,
Go bits of blood, and hunters, hacks, and little Exmoor ponies;
When lords, and ladies, doctors, parsons, farmers, squires, prepare
To hunt the stag, with hound and horn, to Barnstaple Fair.
Then up and ride for Chillam Bridge or on to Bratton Town, sir!
To view the rouse, or watch the yeo, to see the stag come down, sir!
There’s nothing else in jollity, and hospitable fare, sir!
That ever can with Barnstaple, in Fair time, compare, sir!
And guests are very welcome hospitality to share, sir!
For beer is brew’d, and beef is brought, to Barnstaple Fair, sir!
Then sing of merry England, and roast beef, old English fare, sir!
A bumper to “the town and trade of Barum and its Mayor,” sir!
Boiled beef, roast beef, squab pie, pear pie, and figgy pudding plenty,
When eight or nine sit down to dine, they’ll find enough for twenty;
And after dinner, for dessert, the choicest fruits you’ll share, sir!
E’en walnuts come from Somerset, to Barnstaple Fair, sir!
Then sing of Barum, jolly town, and Barum’s jolly Mayor too,
No town in England can be found, old Barum to compare to.
I will not sing of Bullock Fair, and brutes whose horrid trade is,
To make us shut our window blinds, and block up all the ladies:
Nor of the North Walk rush and crush, where fools at horses stare, sir!
When Mister Murray brings his nags to Barnstaple Fair, sir!
But sing of Barum, jolly town, and Barum’s jolly Mayor too,
No town in England can be found old Barum to compare to.
The ball one night, the play the next, with private parties numerous;
Prove Barnstaple people’s endless efforts, sir, to humour us;
And endless, too, would be my song if I should now declare
All the gaieties, and rarities, of Barnstaple Fair.
Then loudly sing, God save the King, and long may Barum thrive, O!
May we all live to see the Fair, and then be all alive, O!