Wednesday, February 9th, brought us in close proximity to the land of the Celestials, as the numerous fishing-junks bore testimony. The same day we sighted Pedro Blanca, which is an island lying near Hong Kong. At 10 A.M. commenced bending the cables, and making other preparations for coming to an anchor. As we neared the land we saw great numbers of pilot-boats steering for us, one of which soon reached us; the pilot came on board, with his long tail, or queu, hanging behind him, and presenting a comical contrast to an old Yankee “Hard-a-lee.” He wanted the moderate sum of forty dollars for taking us into port. Captain Ewer was not so easily gulled as that, and soon gave the old fellow to understand that if he wished to pilot us in for twenty dollars he could do so, and if not he could leave immediately. This brought him to his senses, and he very quickly accepted the offer, as numerous other pilot-boats were in sight, and he knew that he would be underbid if they had an opportunity to do so.

The next day found us beating up through the lee passage. At 1 P.M. the wind died away, and the tide commencing to set out, we dropped anchor. At 7 P.M. we weighed anchor, and with a fine breeze beat up to the anchorage. At 8 P.M. we “brought up” in the harbor of Victoria, Hong Kong.

We were aroused from our slumbers the following morning by the familiar strains of “Hail Columbia,” and our first thought was that we were again at home. But this pleasant illusion was soon dispelled; for, going on deck, we found that the music proceeded from the steam frigate Susquehanna, which was lying close to. What joyous feelings did we experience while listening to that soul-stirring air, and beholding our national flag, the glorious “stars and stripes,” floating proudly from the mizzen-peak of such a grand and stately vessel! We could but feel a great national pride to see our beloved country so nobly represented in a foreign clime. On looking about us, we saw the United States sloops of war Plymouth, Portsmouth, and Saratoga; also the Supply store-ship, together forming quite a fleet. Nothing is so cheering to the rover, while in foreign lands, as to see familiar faces, persons speaking the same tongue and claiming the same land of birth, “the land of the free and the home of the brave.” A feeling of patriotism naturally animated us as we beheld our country’s floating batteries, “the right arm of our defense,” and for a moment we forgot that there was any country but “happy, free America!” The harbor was well filled by merchantmen from nearly all nations; also we observed several English naval vessels in port, as this is one of their rendezvous. Among the shipping the “stars and stripes” were conspicuous, and we could but notice that they floated from more than half the vessels in port.

Before 9 A.M. the deck of our vessel was crowded with Chinamen of all descriptions. In one corner might be seen the tailor spreading out his fancy clothing; then the shoemaker with his shoes, taking the measures of such of the crew as might want. In another part of the ship might be seen a complete variety store, with all descriptions of lacquered ware, artificial flowers, silk handkerchiefs, etc., all selling for a mere song. Washerwomen running about, engaging the washing while the ship remains in port; bumboats alongside with fruit and confectionery; carpenters, riggers, sail-makers, blacksmiths, etc., each with recommends, looking after and soliciting employment.

The decks now presented a comical spectacle. The bald head of the Chinaman stood out prominent; the honorable tail, neatly dressed, the end tipped with ribbon, was conspicuous in all. Each was dressed according to his calling; the merchant in the finest silks, and the common laborer in the coarsest garments. Our Kanakas had their own sport with them, never having seen a Chinaman before, and regarded them as objects of the greatest curiosity. This was especially the case with Dick Simpson, our King Mills’ native. Not being satisfied with viewing them at a distance, he walked up to one, took hold of the long, braided tail of hair, and cried out, laughing heartily, “Look here! what for all the same? hey? All same big fool. By golly! I no been see all same that, my land!” He then laughed till he could laugh no more, seemingly splitting his sides. The poor Chinaman looked at him in perfect amazement, and, not appearing to relish the joke, jabbered away in his own language. This appeared to astonish Dick still more, and he again broke forth: “What this fellow talking about? see that! By golly! say, long-tail, what you talk about? You no saba noting; more better you go ashore; bimeby me eat you—look out!” Dick had to stop again to laugh heartily, the Chinaman stared so earnestly at him.

By this time the trading had commenced quite briskly, and we overheard the following bargain between one of our boys and a Chinaman. The article was a pair of silk pants, for which the merchant wanted the sum of one dollar and fifty cents:

“No you don’t,” says Jack; “I’ll give you three quarters of a dollar.”

“No can do; no proper,” said the Celestial.

“Well, that’s all I’ll give you; you mustn’t come aboard here to come any of your gouge games; if you do, overboard you go.”

“Three quarters no can catch. S’pose one dollar one quarter, very good, proper.”

“Not a bit of it; three quarters, no more.”

“You no see; pant very good; No. 1; three quarters no can catch plofit; s’pose you like one dollar, very good.”

“Three quarters is all I’ll give you; what do you say, old Chinaman? bear a hand.”

“No; no can do; must catch one dollar.”

“Shiver my timbers! old buggerlugs, if you don’t come to terms pretty soon, I’ll treat you to a salt-water bath; three quarters, or away you go.”

“Well, s’pose must catch three quarters; no good, no proper;” and then, turning to another of the men, said, “S’pose you like catch one three quarters, very good, proper.”

This is a peculiar characteristic of the Chinese merchants. They charge about twice as much as they expect to get for an article; and the only way to trade with them is to make them an offer, and not vary one cent from it; they will not let a person go without purchasing.

The mate now came along, and started them all for the shore. They were very loth to go, but after a while we rid the ship of them. As a general thing, they are expert thieves, and will carry off any thing they can lay hold of if not very closely watched.

The captain hired a boat (which is the usual custom), called a “sanpan,” to attend on the ship. These boats are manned by a whole family, as a general thing, it constituting house and home with them. They are generally about thirty feet in length and six in width, with two mat sails. They have a sort of cabin for the accommodation of passengers, which is amidships, or in the centre of the boat. This cabin also serves as parlor, kitchen, sleeping-room, and dressing-room for its occupants. The Chinaman who owned the “sanpan” hired by our captain had a family consisting of himself, wife, wife’s sister, and brother. He had also three fine-looking, bright children, who appeared perfectly contented on board their floating-home.

It is a singular fact that the lowest class of Chinese are not allowed to live on land, but spend most of their lives upon the water. When they possess a certain sum of money they are allowed a residence upon the land, and not until then; but this sum is so large that very few of them ever accumulate it. They are born, live, and die upon the water, never going on shore except to purchase the necessaries of life. One may see floating markets, shoe-shops, tailor-shops, and, in fact, all kinds of mechanical business. We noticed some boats, not exceeding ten feet in length, containing a family of five or six, with all their “household gods,” etc., on board.

But to return to our own “sanpan.” The captain appeared active and intelligent, the females rather good-looking and sociable, the crew (consisting of one man) lazy and indolent. These first class sanpans are hired by ships while lying at anchor for the purpose of conveying the ship’s company to and from the shore, doing the ship’s errands, bringing off provisions, etc., a kind of “man-of-all-work,” for which services they receive from ten to fifteen dollars per month. From this amount, say fifteen dollars, a Chinaman will save ten, which makes it quite a profitable job. It is an excellent plan also for the ship concerned, as it obviates the necessity of lowering her own boats while in port. They sail like the wind, and are quicker in motion than any other boat we ever saw upon the water. One can not look about the harbor but he will see them on every hand, gliding about with the swiftness of an arrow, yet collisions seldom if ever occur. It is surprising to see the ease with which they manage them—two coming from opposite directions with great swiftness, apparently steering for each other’s bows, yet, at the moment when a collision appears inevitable, down goes the helm of one, and they shoot past each other free from harm.

The morning following our arrival a boat came alongside loaded with fresh meat, vegetables, etc. The proprietor of the “market” soon made his appearance, and introduced himself to the captain as “Boston Jack,” a comprador (one who furnishes ships with fresh provisions). He informed Captain E. that he was comprador to the American ships in port, and wished to engage himself as “comprador to the Emily Morgan.” A bargain was soon struck, and he was duly installed in the office. In appearance Boston Jack is about forty years of age, medium height, very quick and active, with a sharp, keen eye, and very polite. The bows he bestowed upon all who honored themselves by speaking to him would have become the most complete and polished French gentleman.

Dr. Ball, in his “Rambles in Eastern Asia,” thus speaks of him: “About a mile above Whampoa we called at ‘Boston Jack’s’. This is a Chinaman, an acquaintance that my companions had made in passing before. ‘Boston Jack’ is familiarly known to the European population of Hong Kong as a kind of interpreter and furnisher of provisions for vessels, and a commissioner to provide servants, coolies, and to make purchases of various Chinese articles. He was formerly a pilot, and is still connected with that business, furnishing pilots, etc., and is ready to do any kind of business between the foreigners and Chinese. He is said to be worth a hundred thousand dollars; treated us to beer, and gave us some to take on our way. He had much to say of his son, who lives in New York, and was very polite, inviting us to call again,” etc.

Hong Kong is an island, and not, as is the general impression, a Chinese city. It is a British colony, within a few miles of the Chinese coast. It was Chinese until the treaty after the celebrated opium war ceded it to the English. At that time it was inhabited only by a few fishermen and pirates. It is an elevation of barren mountains, with scarcely any vegetation, and is about twenty-five miles in circumference, and eight in diameter. Its shores are generally bold, and the water deep near the coast. There are, however, several spots with declivities sufficiently gradual for the location of cities. The English government has taken possession of these, and erected fortifications and barracks, where they keep small garrisons of troops. Victoria is the name of the city, yet it is hardly known by any name but Hong Kong.

Victoria is on the north side of the island, built on the base and on the inclination of a conspicuous mountain which overlooks the harbor. It extends about two and a half miles along the edge of the water, and back on the side of the mountain half a mile. It has only one principal street, called Queen’s Road, which is near the water, and encircles the island. There are several others parallel with it, and from twenty to forty feet one above the other. The small cross streets uniting them are steep, and at some places have flights of steps by which to ascend and descend. Taking the zigzag streets in their proper order, the highest houses may be reached with a carriage. The houses are generally of two or three stories, though many at the outer part of the city, called bungaloes, are of one story, and look like cottages. Open to the country on the west of the city you will see the steep side of the mountains, with only here and there a poverty-stricken Chinaman’s cabin. The ground is covered with rocks, a little grass, and, higher up, with brush. The white buildings conspicuous here and there are the police stations. Following the road to the east, you enter the part of the city known as Typen-shang, where the lower order of the Chinese reside.

Following the road as it winds round and ascends upon higher ground, we come to the European part—the central portion of Victoria. On the left is a row of Chinamen’s shops, beyond which, along the edge of the harbor, are occasionally the large houses of Europeans. On the right are blocks of European buildings, rising one above another, and as we passed them we could but imagine ourselves once more in a civilized land. Behind these, a little distance up the inclined plane, the mountain rises abruptly, and to the eye nearly perpendicular, and terminating in a peak near three thousand feet high. A scanty vegetation of grass and brambles there appears, but there is little else than rocks, some of which seem to hang by nothing, and may eventually, becoming loosened, roll down and cut their way through the settlements to the water.

Passing along, we come to the principal business part of the city. On the right is a hotel, with blocks of houses occupied mostly by English and Americans, auctioneers, apothecaries, the club-house of the merchants, etc., and back, short streets of Chinese mechanics. Continuing along the water toward the east, after a short interval we see the military quarters, which inclose within a quarter of a mile the showy stone barracks, parade-ground, officers’ residences, in elevated positions, the church, and other buildings. Half a mile farther is another fine block of buildings; then comes the hospital, ship-yard, and a large ship-chandlery establishment. Thus the town or city of Victoria is strung out for two or three miles along the shore.

The population, including Chinese, is about twenty-five thousand. But a small portion are European. Almost every nation is represented here, though there are only a few of each. Besides the English, American, and Chinese, we find the French, Spanish, Portuguese, Persians, Bengalese, Javanese, Manillamen, German, Italian, Russian, Danish, Swiss, Dutch, Belgian, Pole, Arab, Turk, Armenian, Tartar, Siamese, African, and South American.

The streets are filled with Chinese, and you continually see the traveling barber, carrying his barber-shop with him—cobblers, tinkers, pastrymen, men carrying hogs, rabbits, ducks, rats, puppies, etc, already cooked; and along the principal streets you find the brokers, or money-changers, with piles of cash. These cash are a small coin, about one half the size of a cent, of a base metal, and a square hole in the centre, twenty-four of which are equal in value to one of the cents of United States coin. The fortune-teller or conjurer may also be seen, with his charts, covered with hieroglyphics, spread before him, and busily engaged in penetrating the future for some inquisitive Chinaman.

The police force here is composed mostly of English, Americans, and Lascars. They are very effective in preserving order among the Chinese, and a Chinaman stands more in awe of a policeman than any thing else in Hong Kong.

From the ship the town looks beautiful at night. It was New-year’s week with the Chinese at this time, and their part of the town was brilliantly illuminated every evening. The thousand brilliant lamps, with an occasional rocket piercing its way into the clouds above, presented to the beholder a scene of beauty scarcely equaled, reminding him of old legends of enchanted cities. The evening gun of the frigate booms forth, answered from the fort; the bugle call from the barracks sounds sweetly on the calm evening air, and as its soft, gentle tones strike our ear, we almost forget that we are in the land of strangers, and remain musing until we are aroused by the striking of the frigate’s bell, and the hoarse cry echoed over the waters of “All’s well!”

The day after our arrival our ship presented rather a busy appearance. The cooper, with his gang, was preparing casks for water and provisions; others were engaged breaking out the hold and restowing oil, and all hands busy about something; outside a gang of Chinese calkers were busily engaged, and following them were another gang with scrapers and brooms, preparing the ship for an extra coat of paint.

The United States sloop of war “Plymouth” fired a salute on this day, in honor of a visit from the American consul. The report of her heavy guns almost deafened us, and caused our Kanakas to open wide their eyes with astonishment, and exclaim, “I g-o-lly; I never been hear all the same that fore!”

On Sunday, February 13th, the British mail steamer “Wildfire” arrived, having on board Governor Bonham, who had been home to England on a visit. He was received by a salute from the men-of-war and the fort, and escorted to his residence by the military stationed here. In the eastern part of the town are situated the barracks; the buildings, which are of stone, are fine, large, and comfortable, and the grounds ample for military evolutions. The 59th regiment of infantry, a company of sappers and miners, and one artillery company, were stationed here at this time. They were composed of fine, healthy-appearing men, and when on parade presented a brilliant appearance.

We found three churches here—one a fine, large Episcopal church, built of stone; a Roman Catholic, and a third a “Union” church, as it was called, attended by persons of all creeds and denominations.

There are also several very fine hotels here, the principal of which is “Brooks’ Hotel.” This is generally the head-quarters of the naval officers. The house is kept on the European plan, is very commodious, and, above all, very neat and clean. Their charges are in proportion, as they intend their guests shall pay for what they have in good round sums.

While on shore shortly after our arrival, Dick Simpson, our “Group” native, saw a man pass on horseback. The poor fellow appeared dumb with astonishment; at length he exclaimed, “What for man, he on big dog! I g-o-lly; I no been see all same that my place; all the same that ’Merica?” On being answered in the affirmative his wonder still increased, if possible, and it proved a hard task to convince him that it was not a dog, but a horse. “Yes, he big dog; ’spose me no saby; he all the same dog,” he would say. In order to satisfy his curiosity, we took him to a horse, and told him to examine for himself. After having expressed himself as satisfied, he wished to know “where he came from.” We explained this as far as lay in our power to do, and after we ceased he chuckled, and told what yarns he would spin when he arrived at his “land.” “Kanaka my place all same fool; he no been see nothing!”

As we were the only sperm whaler in port, we attracted considerable attention, especially from the Yankee men-of-war’s-men, as they all lay in close proximity to us, many of whom paid us visits, some to purchase shells, whale’s teeth, and other curiosities, others to learn the modus operandi of the capture of the sperm whale. The particulars of the chase appeared greatly to interest them, as they never before had the opportunity of listening to such narrations, or of inspecting the different apparatus for fastening and killing the whale, hoisting in the blubber, trying out, etc.

During one of these visits from the captain and one of the lieutenants of the store-ship “Supply,” Tom W——, of whom we have before spoken, being full of the old Nick, as usual, “button-holed” the lieutenant at once, and proceeded to show him the ship and whaling craft. He soon had the officer down in the hold, among the greasy oil casks, to show him the manner of stowing down the oil. He kept on a straight countenance, and told his guest he supposed he wished to see the whole show! The lieutenant did not appear to relish the sport, as he had already finely besmeared his coat and pants with dirty grease; and on remarking it, Tom coolly replied, “Oh! that is nothing; you should try a voyage whaling; you would not mind the grease much!” After piloting him through all the dirtiest parts of the ship, he at last brought up in the cook’s galley. The mate, who had been entertaining the captain of the “Supply,” now came in search of the lieutenant, and what was his surprise to see him cozily seated in the “galley” with Tom, who had him by the button-hole, very earnestly explaining how nicely our cooking was done, and the excellent virtues of the stove. The mate now came to the relief of the pestered officer, and was walking off with him, when Tom marched after, called him, extended his hand, and bade him good-by with much warmth, inviting him very cordially to call again. The lieutenant could not refuse his hand, and, returning a slight shake, turned away, looking daggers. However, we believe, on learning the particulars, being too much a gentleman to show anger, he laughed heartily at the joke, and before leaving the ship invited Tom to pay him a visit. Tom thanked him, and promised to avail himself of the honor and pleasure.

On Wednesday, February 16th, Sir William Bonham, the English governor, visited the steam frigate “Susquehanna,” and on leaving was honored by a salute, the cross of St. George at the fore royal-mast head. This vessel is the flag-ship of Commodore Aulick, who was daily expecting the arrival of Commodore Perry to relieve him and take command of the squadron.

The officers on board the several naval vessels in port appeared very courteous and gentlemanly, and possessing a dignity that fully became their position. We felt proud of them as American naval officers, and willing that our navy and our country should be judged by them. There were, however, with them, as with every thing, a few exceptions. The lowest class of naval commissioned officers, familiarly known as “middies,” appeared altogether too large and nice for even the company of the commodore, and would strut about the decks of their ship, or the streets of the city, deeming any one who could not sport an officer’s uniform entirely beneath their notice. We are glad, for the honor of our navy and country, that this class is small, and we would that it were less.

Wishing to visit the barracks of the soldiers and see them in their every-day life, we embraced the opportunity of an invitation from one of the officers, whose acquaintance we had previously formed, and paid them a visit. We must confess to a surprise in finding the excellent order and extreme cleanliness that every where prevailed. The rooms were large and well ventilated, and the cots placed in rows along the walls. From all appearances, the soldiers must have easy times and comfortable quarters. They are compelled to drill one hour each day, which usually takes place in the forenoon; from that time until 3 P.M. they are occupied in taking care of and cleaning their arms and accoutrements. From that time until 8 P.M. they are at liberty to go where they please. The evening gun is then fired, and all are required to be within the gates at half past 8, at which time each room is visited, and those absent after 9 P.M. are put under guard as soon as they return, and are punished according to the circumstances of the case.

For their amusement, a very good theatre is connected with the barracks, the actors belonging to the regiment. We learn that this is beneficial, inasmuch as it prevents many of them from seeking pleasure in the numerous drinking-houses which infest certain portions of the city; a pleasure that many of them appeared disposed to seek, but which is generally dear bought, as it is sure to be followed by a punishment proportionate to the offense.

Near the Episcopal church stands the fort, which, from its elevated position, commands the town. The battery is immediately on the beach, and has a fair sweep at the shipping. The authorities find it necessary to keep a strict watch over the Chinese population to prevent an insurrection. They only lack the courage; their hatred of the English is complete, and the will to rise and murder every “outside barbarian” in the city is not wanting in them.

One can scarcely pass through the streets but he is saluted with the cry of “Kum my shop; can sell much too chipp; no wanchee buy sum littley ting?” In fact, the Chinese portion of Hong Kong is a perfect Chatham Street. Going into a shop one morning, we began looking at various articles, the shopkeeper pulling down all his wares to show us. After selecting several articles, and inquiring the sum total of the bill, we were informed it was fourteen and a half dollars. We indignantly turned to leave, when he accosted us with,

“How much can catchee them tings?”

We told him “six dollars.”

“No can do; no can catch plofit, s’pose six dollar.”

“Very good,” we informed him, and again turned to leave, when he called to us the second time, and, after some bantering, told us we might have them for six dollars. Had we not have known the price of such articles previous to this, we might have paid him more than we did, but we knew they were all Jews in trading, and were determined not to allow the rascal to cheat us.

They are great rascals, these Chinese merchants. The currency here is gold, silver, and copper, and they are very cautious in regard to it, being continually on the alert for spurious coin; yet, if they have the opportunity, will put off any quantity of it, and then lie out of it in the most barefaced, impudent manner imaginable. Spanish and Mexican dollars command a premium of from four to six cents; other silver they will not take for its full value. An American half dollar passes for but twenty-five cents among them. On receiving a piece of money, they inspect it very minutely, and if they discover the least flaw or defect in it, they refuse it as bad; or, as they say, “chop dollar—no proper;” yet, if they have the opportunity, will pass the same kind on the purchaser in giving change. If one of them refuse to take such money, it is only necessary to whisper the word “policeman” in his ear, and all is immediately right.

A seaman, who had recently come on shore to live from a California ship, received a bad dollar from one of these merchants. On discovering it, he proceeded to the shop and called for a backgammon-board. Choosing a beautiful one, finished with rich gilt work, he inquired the price. The Chinaman said “three dollars.”

“No, no, John Chinaman; s’pose me no saby you? me live too long Hong Kong; me no fool.”

“Well, s’pose can catchee two dollar, he very good?”

“No, I give you one dollar; proper.”

“Hiyah! how can do! no proper!”

“S’pose you like one dollar, very good; s’pose you no like, very good.”

“Me likey one dollar; two dollar more good; proper; you no see; number one, this fellow; alla same ’nother pigeon (merchant) sell five dollar.”

“Me no give more one dollar; plenty Chinaman speak one dollar proper.”

“Hiyah! Chinaman bloody liar! no speak good; too much lie. S’pose you like catchee one dollar half, proper; s’pose one dollar, no can do.”

“Well, s’pose you no like one dollar, me go ’nother shop.”

“No proper; s’pose you cum my shop, buy plenty, you catchee him one dollar.”

“Oh, certainly. I shall buy you out before I leave.”

Accordingly, he picked up the board, and threw down the same piece he had received from this merchant the day previous. On seeing this the Chinaman flew into a great passion, and called for his board to be returned to him; but it was too late; the purchaser had departed with it under his arm. However, he was not to be got rid of so easily; after the sailor he went, shouting after him to give up his board. The sailor heeded him not, but proceeded to his boarding-house, threw the board into his chest, closed it, and sat down on the lid. Presently in came the Chinaman in a hot rage, and demanded his backgammon-board. Upon this the sailor jumped up, seized the Chinaman by the collar, who commenced turning pale, and, shaking him rather roughly, demanded why he gave him “that bad dollar.” The poor fellow protested his innocence, denying the charge. This dodge would not do; so, shouting to a landlord to bring in a policeman, the Chinaman darted for the door, and retraced his steps with all possible speed.

The females are kept under great subjection, being looked upon as little better than slaves. They are not allowed to be educated, but are kept in ignorance. The higher classes dress very richly, wearing many ornaments of gold. In some things we think they show much more good sense than our American ladies. Fashion, with them, does not change every month, yet they all dress in good taste. Their manner of dressing the hair is decidedly superior to that of our own fair countrywomen. On their wrists they wear heavy gold bracelets, generally placed there when quite young, and, were it not for their small feet, they would make a good appearance. This deformity, for we can call it nothing less, causes them to walk as though they were crippled. Many of them are obliged to use the cane to assist them, and they always appear as if it caused them pain to walk. The small feet, we were credibly informed, are confined to the aristocracy. They appear more like club-feet than natural ones, the ankle and foot having both become one. The females are much better-looking than the men. We seldom noticed the high cheek-bones, or eyes so wide apart; and, moreover, their heads are covered by nature’s covering—fine black hair. In complexion they resemble the brunette.

We noticed one very singular fact. As many times as we visited the shops of the merchants, we never saw any females in them, not even belonging to the merchant’s family, who generally reside in the same building. We often wondered at this, so different from our own customs; but then we recollected that we were “outside barbarians,” and could not, of course, be expected to know what was right. On inquiring of “Acowo,” a merchant of high standing, the reason of this custom, his only answer was, “No proper alla same that pigeon; no good.” Very satisfactory, truly!

On Sunday the stores and shops of the Chinese are kept open as usual. They regard no day as a Sabbath. Gambling is carried on to a very great extent among all classes. On entering a shop at almost any time, you will see a number of persons engaged in gambling in the rear portion of the room. The cards are long, narrow slips of pasteboard, with numerous Chinese characters or devices inscribed upon them. The countenances of the players betrayed all the varieties of expression, from that of the fortunate to the unlucky gamester. One may behold the happy and contented look of the winner; again may be seen the countenance livid, lips compressed, eyes glaring, and the whole face betraying the intense excitement of the loser.

It was unsafe at this time to walk the streets of Hong Kong at night, particularly in Typen-shang, or the Chinese portion, or among the boatmen who congregate on the wharves. Although the police were extremely vigilant, very frequently was the pedestrian waylaid, knocked down, and robbed. The boatmen were not to be trusted, as many cases occurred where seamen, returning from the shore to their respective ships at night, were either drugged or knocked in the head, their pockets rifled, and bodies thrown overboard. An officer attached to the steam frigate Susquehanna, while returning to the ship, was thus treated. His body was stripped of its clothing, and then thrown overboard, his murderers supposing him dead. However, the water revived him, and, being an excellent swimmer, he gained the nearest vessel in a weak and nearly exhausted state. Another instance came to our notice while there. The master of one of the American merchantmen in port, while walking through the streets of the Chinese portion of the town in broad daylight, was seized from behind, and his gold watch taken from him. As soon as possible he gave the alarm, and the rascal attempted flight. He was soon captured; not, however, until, seeing escape impossible, he dashed the watch against a stone building, thus destroying it. The punishment for theft, we were informed, is cutting off the hair of the culprit. As this is their greatest pride, they are disgraced forever when they lose their “tails;” and some of them have been known, feeling the disgrace so keenly, to proceed to the grave of a recently-interred Chinaman, rob the dead of its ornamental appendage, and splice or fasten it upon their own in such a manner as to escape detection; then remove to some place where they were not known. Many are seen, however, with no tails, and, like the fox in the fable, are shunned even by their own companions, who have the same desire for plunder, yet lack the courage to carry it out.

While walking through the streets of the city in search of adventure one day, we were startled by a most horrid din, and, looking up, saw approaching a band of musicians, blowing and beating their instruments for dear life. Following this were the bearers of a coffin, which was placed upon a bier, the coffin resembling very much in shape the trunk of a tree, with the larger or spreading part for the head of the deceased, who, we were informed, was the “head” of a family. Next came the mourners—the wife and children of the deceased—dressed in pure white, which is their color for mourning. A number of the friends of the deceased, with about twenty American sailors, “slightly elevated,” brought up the rear. The whole procession was going on “a run”—music, mourners, and all hands—“running away from Josh,” as Boston Jack informed us. “Josh” is their evil spirit, and they believe that if they can get the deceased into the ground “in a hurry,” Josh will not trouble him, especially if music is used to frighten him; and we could not but think that the “music by the band,” together with the shouts and yells of the drunken sailors, was enough to frighten his Satanic majesty himself, and drive him out of the city. We stood viewing the procession until they passed from sight, and then came to the sage conclusion that “it takes all kinds of people to form a world.”

They are very strict in their laws about marriage in one sense, and rather loose in another. A Chinaman can have but one wife, who, in marrying, assumes his name; but he is allowed as many handmaids as he chooses to have. Thus they avoid polygamy, and still practice it. Marriage, also, between those bearing the same name is unlawful. The grounds of divorce are seven, some of which are rather amusing. The first is barrenness; the others are adultery, disobedience to the husband’s parents, talkativeness, thieving, ill-temper, and inveterate infirmities. Any of these, however, may be set aside by three circumstances: the wife having mourned for the husband’s parents; the family, since marriage, having acquired wealth; and the wife having no parent to receive her back. It is, in all cases, disreputable for a widow to marry again, and in some instances, especially those of a particular rank, it is illegal.

From the age of ten the females are kept very secluded, and have no opportunity of intercourse with the other sex until they are married. In fact, they never see their intended until the time of marriage. Some of them, we should judge, would be sadly disappointed when they come to look at each other for the first time. All that they know of each other before marriage is through their fathers, mothers, or aunts, which, we should think, would be rather unsatisfactory. Yet we are inclined to the belief that they do, by some hook or crook, manage sometimes to get a glimpse of each other’s faces before marriage, else how could the following lines have come into existence, especially the third line of the third verse? It is said to be Chinese, though we rather incline to the contrary:

The birth of a son is an occasion of great rejoicing; the family, or surname, is first given, and then the “milk name,” which is generally some diminutive endearment. A month after the event, the relatives and friends jointly send the child a silver plate, on which are engraven, “Long life, honors, and felicity.” The boys are trained in behavior and ceremonies from their earliest childhood; and at four or five they commence reading. The importance of general education was felt so long since in China, that a work, written before the Christian era, speaks of the ancient system of instruction, which required that every town and village, down to only a few families, should have a common school. The wealthy Chinese employ private teachers, and others send their sons to day-schools, which are so well attended that the fees paid by each boy are extremely small. In large towns evening schools are held, that those who are compelled to labor through the day may not be without the advantages of education.

A Chinese school is a great curiosity to an American. They all study aloud, and it appears to cause no confusion with either teachers or scholars, though it would in a Yankee school. But their appearance is the greatest curiosity. Such a set of bald heads with young bodies, their only hair a braided queue hanging down the back—such young faces in the dress of old men, in frocks, leggins, and large shoes, with boys’ motions and actions, and the medley of voices—such a variety of grotesque sounds and tones, is a very novel sight, and would make a laughable picture; but it would be necessary to produce the sounds to give a correct idea of a Chinese school.

Of all the objects of the care of the Chinese, there are none to which they so religiously attend as the tombs of their ancestors, for they believe that any neglect is sure to be followed by worldly misfortune. It is here that they manifest a religious zeal which is hardly shown toward their gods. Their ceremonies connected with the treatment of the dead are of a striking character. Aside from the burial service, of which we have already spoken, there are others commanded by their ritual to be performed. The original and strict period of mourning is for a parent three years, but this is commonly reduced in practice to twenty-seven months. Full three years must elapse from the death of a parent before a child can marry.

A pleasing anecdote in relation to filial piety is related of a youth named Ouang-Ouci-Yuen. Having lost his mother, who was all that was dear to him, he passed the three years of mourning in a hut, employing himself in his retirement composing verses in honor of his parent. These are quoted by the Chinese as models of sentiment and tenderness. The period of his mourning having elapsed, he returned to his former residence, but did not forget his filial affection. His mother had always expressed great fears of thunder, and, when it was stormy, would request her son not to leave her. Therefore, as soon as he heard a storm coming on, he would hasten to his mother’s grave, saying softly to her, “I am here, mother.”

The disposal of parental property by will is restricted to the legal heirs. The eldest son has a double portion, or, more correctly speaking, the property may be said to descend to the eldest son in trust for all the younger brothers. Over them he has considerable authority. They generally live together, and club their shares, by which means families in this over-peopled country are more easily supported than they otherwise would be. The constant exhortations in the “Book of Sacred Edicts” point to this usage, and the necessity for it, as they relate to the preservation of union and concord among kindred and their families.

We are informed that the crime of infanticide prevails here to a great extent, especially as regards female infants. They consider it a great tax to bring them up and support them, as they think they receive no particular benefit from so doing. This crime is more common among the poorer classes, who, from their poverty, feel unable to support them. To male children they appear much attached.

We were awakened one morning by the heavy guns of the “Susquehanna,” and at first could not imagine the cause. But on gaining the deck and looking around we saw all our national vessels with their gayest colors flying, and smoke issuing from their sides. We then recollected it was the ever-to-be-remembered 22d of February, the anniversary birthday of our dearly-loved Washington, the best and greatest man that ever lived. With great pride did we reflect that, so far from our own dear land even, his name and memory were revered, not only by his own countrymen, but by the descendants of those who would once have gloried in his defeat and death. The English naval vessels also dressed themselves in gay flags, the ever-beautiful stars and stripes flying at the foremast head, and following our own vessels in a national salute of thirty-one guns. Determined not to be outdone by foreigners, after all the men-of-war in port had ceased firing, the “Emily Morgan” hoisted the stars and stripes at the mizzen peak, and other colors at the fore, main, and mizzen trucks, brought her “six-pounder” to the gangway, and belched forth. This proceeding created great astonishment among the government vessels, who little expected to see a whaler saluting the anniversary-day. But why not? we thought, and fired our thirty-one guns, ending with a hearty “three times three,” which made the old harbor ring again. The band from the “Susquehanna” now struck up “Hail Columbia,” which seemed at once to transport us to the home of our beloved Washington, our own dearly-loved home. The house of the American consul was thrown open to visitors, and we embraced the opportunity of calling and paying our respects. We there met many of our countrymen, who appeared to us like old friends, meeting at such a place and on such an occasion.

While rambling through the city, we called at the rooms of a Chinese artist, and there saw some beautiful paintings, mostly landscapes. The portraits were not as well executed, the majority being mere daubs. They appear greatly defective in painting the human figure, not having correct ideas of proportion, or arrangement of lights and shades. Some of the paintings representing groups looked really ridiculous; but still, if they have a picture to copy, they do it very finely.

Their powers of imitation, it is said, are not excelled by any people, but they seemingly have no inventive faculties. Yet we saw some things that would go to contradict this theory; and there is an anecdote which was told us by a citizen of Hong Kong, who vouched for its accuracy, that tends rather to disprove it, although the idea carried out was not, perhaps, strictly an original one. At the close of the celebrated “opium war,” some manufacturers at Sheffield, England, hearing of the celebrated imitative powers of the Chinese, sent to Hong Kong a quantity of the finest cambric needles, requesting their agent to ascertain if they could be imitated by the Chinese. The agent, accordingly, took some of them to a Chinese cutler, and, telling him what was wanted, left them. In a few days the needles were returned, with another package precisely similar, except that the needles manufactured by the Chinaman all had eyes nicely drilled and finished in the points of them! The Chinaman called the next day after he had sent the package, and requested the Englishman to send his needles to England, and ascertain if they could be imitated. It is needle-ss to say that Johnny Bull never sent John Chinaman any more cambric needles to imitate.

Still, if you wish an article made, they must have a copy, and that copy will be strictly followed. An anecdote illustrating this is related—the truth of which we do not vouch for, however—of an English midshipman, who wished half a dozen pairs of pants made, of blue cloth. Accordingly, he selected his tailor, gave him the order, and left a pair as a pattern. It so happened that this pair had a small patch on the seat, and was minus several buttons; and when the new pants came on board, very neatly made, each had a similar patch, and the same number of buttons missing—the Chinaman charging for the extra sewing. As may be supposed, the middy was in a great rage; but all the satisfaction he could get was that they were made exactly like the pattern left.

The Chinese manufacture a liquor which they call “sam shu,” which is very intoxicating, and of which they drink large quantities. It often happens that they entice our naval seamen to partake of this liquor, and they are as surely robbed as they do partake of it, for it is almost always drugged by them for the purpose, that they may the easier rob poor Jack of his liberty money, or any thing else they can carry off. On awaking, finding himself stripped of every thing by the rascals, there is no resource for him but to return to his ship, which is done. One would think that this treatment once would be sufficient; yet it is practiced upon some many times. Forgetting their former follies, they rush again into the embrace of the soul-destroying, maddening cup.

Having a desire to see something of the domestic life of the Chinese, and possessing a moderate share of what is sometimes termed “impudence,” we, in company with two of our shipmates, invited ourselves to call upon a Chinese family. Selecting a house which had the appearance of having a wealthy owner, we marched to the door, and one of our number rapped. The door was opened by the lady of the house, and in we marched. She immediately motioned us to seats, looking at us, and evidently wondering to what she owed the honor of this visit. The house had a very neat, tidy appearance, as had also the hostess, who, though the mother of eight children, appeared scarcely thirty years of age. They were boys, all but two, and were romping about the room, raising “Ned” at a great rate. It being their dinner-hour, she went about her business, leaving her polite visitors to make observations and amuse themselves as they pleased. She soon returned, and placed on the centre of the floor a large dish of boiled rice, another with vegetables, called the children, and seated them on the floor around the “wittles.” After passing us some tea, she took her station with the children, placed a portion of the rice and vegetables on the plate of each one, gave them their “chop-sticks” and told them, as we supposed, to commence. And commence they did. These chop-sticks are two round, slim pieces of ivory, about eight inches in length, which supply the place of both fork and spoon. With the chop-sticks in the right hand and the dish in the left, with its edge close to the mouth, the velocity with which they “fork” down the rice is certainly surprising. They handle these singular sticks with the greatest ease, picking up whatever they wish, and conveying it to the mouth.

The principal food of the Chinese consists of rice, vegetables, and fruit—eating little or no meat. The tea which our hostess had the kindness to pass us was of a most excellent flavor. They drink no tea but black, that being their favorite. It is very different from any we ever drank in America, having a much better flavor. After thanking the lady for her kindness, we took our leave, strolling into the “Josh house,” or temple of worship.

This building is of one story, but covers a large area of ground. It is very fancifully decorated on the outside; and on each side of the entrance is a large sculptured dragon, about twelve or fifteen feet in height. On coming to the gateway, we found the entrance paved with smoothly-hewn stone, and, ascending a few steps, we entered the building. Near the centre of the first room stands, or rather sits, cross-legged, a great, disagreeable-looking bronze idol. It is from twenty to thirty feet high; is represented as very fat, with an immense belly, and laughing, as if very happy. Before him is suspended a lantern, and in it a dim red light is burning, which is never permitted to go out. On a table-like altar in front Josh-sticks were smoking. In front of this table is a large metallic urn for containing the ashes of the Josh-sticks and offerings. Before the altar, in a line, are three stools, covered with little mats, for the worshipers to kneel upon. Above, near the roof, is a Chinese inscription in gilt letters; and each side of a post, extending from the roof to the floor, is lined with the same kind of characters.

On the right were two other gods, facing toward the left, also in a sitting posture, the legs being turned out, and the right foot of each resting on the back of a tortoise. They were about twenty-five or thirty feet high, and eighteen feet in circumference around their middle. They were ornamented with bright and various colors, and gilded and decorated in a profuse manner, appearing more like theatrical characters than gods. Many smaller figures of the human form are about the feet of the larger ones, as if paying them homage. These, also, are richly and handsomely painted, and gilded in a similar manner. All the gods have shrines, kneeling-stools, and Josh-sticks placed before them. The first of these gods, on the right of this room, is represented as a black man, with a huge beard, wearing a crown, and holding a sword in one hand. This is the god of war. The other is the god of music, with a complexion light and delicate, animated features, and regularly trimmed mustaches. He is playing a guitar, and smaller Chinese figures are playing at his feet.

On the left of the room, facing toward and corresponding with those on the right, were two other gods of the same size and style, and seated in the same manner as those on the opposite side of the hall. One of them had in one hand a dragon’s egg, with the young dragon just presenting itself, while in its other hand was held, writhing about the arm, a serpent which he was crushing. The other god held a flag, and had a very self-conceited expression of countenance, as if he was a very great character in his own estimation. These are the gods of vengeance and justice.

We passed through a door in the back part of the room into a second apartment. This room contains the greatest number of idols, and is where the principal religious ceremonies are performed. Idols are arranged all round the room, and there are several in the centre. As you enter the door, three huge gods, twenty-five feet high, appear, looking very demurely, with eyes cast downward. Two goddesses, one on each side, stand facing at right angles. They are all very richly dressed—the goddesses particularly so, having crowns on their heads. The others have nothing on their heads but a sort of skull-cap, without a front-piece. The usual amount of vases, Josh-sticks, etc., were standing around, besides various other things, the use of which we did not learn. On the left of the altar was a large iron kettle, used for a drum; and there was also a hollow instrument, made from a peculiar kind of wood, and in the shape of a large sleigh-bell, for drumming purposes. Back of all these idols is a goddess mounted upon an ass, the head of the animal being turned up toward her, as if braying. The gods around the outside of this room were in two rows, and were about the size of men, of various patterns and designs, probably that each worshiper might choose a god for himself.

While examining matters and things in this room, a female approached, and, going to a desk or counter that stood in one part of the room, held a short conversation with a priest who stood there. She then purchased a bunch of fire-crackers (such as Young America delights in on Independence days); then advanced to one of the large idols, kneeled down, bowing her head so that it touched the stone floor, three times in succession. She then took two sticks or pieces of wood, resembling oyster-shells, which she held above her head and let fall. This she repeated, bowing her head to the stone floor two or three times, taking particular care, however, not to strike the floor hard enough to break any of the stones, or her head either. Appearing not to be satisfied, she arose, her countenance betraying great anguish. Leaving her angry god, she turned to the goddess, who, she thought, would better understand her feelings, being a woman like herself, and, with her head bowed again, went through the same forms. This time, on arising, she appeared more pleased, and, lighting Josh-sticks, she again commenced, holding the burning sticks in her hand, advancing to the goddess, then receding from it, then bowing to the floor, striking the head, etc., besides much more that was about as foolish. She then lighted the crackers, and threw them around in all directions. At last she took a bamboo box of tablets in her hand, shook it till one fell out, with some Chinese motto on it, which she carried to the priest, who interpreted it, giving her a corresponding slip of paper, which, we suppose, after being burned, entitles her to some thousands of cash in their spirit-world, or admits her to some great honors and privileges. Any person, by paying a few cash, can shake the box and obtain a similar receipt. After chin-chinning the principal god in the room, she departed.

In all the Chinese houses which we visited Josh-sticks are kept continually burning, to drive away the evil spirits, and keep them from harm.

While a part of the ship’s company were on shore enjoying themselves, the remainder, on board ship, were continually devising means to “kill time.” On one occasion, Tom W., our old joker, made his appearance on deck, presenting a most comical figure. He had on a pair of pants that came within six inches of his ankles, with a narrow piece of leather passing around the bottom of his feet for straps; a coat with the waist between his shoulders, and the skirts trailing the decks; the whole surmounted by a tall, bell-crowned hat, with narrow rim. About his neck was suspended a boatswain’s whistle. Rigged out in this style, he mounted the “hurricane deck,” and commenced pacing to and fro with great dignity. On board the “Susquehanna” they were exercising the men in loosing and furling the sails, and every time the whistle of the boatswain sounded on board, Tom replied, imitating them as nearly as possible, and turning “full front” to the frigate, over whose sides were seen sundry heads, peering at the whaler to see what could be the matter. To all this, however, Tom paid no attention, but continued his dignified strut, interspersing his walk with all manner of “calls” on his boatswain’s whistle. The quarter-master of the frigate now leveled his glass at the whaler’s “boatswain,” and took a long squint. Perceiving this, Tom called for his glass, and one of the boys passed him a handspike. Bringing it to bear, he “squinted” in return at the quarter-master; then would take a turn or two fore and aft the deck, give a shrill whistle, and again level his “glass.” By this time most of the officers of the “Susquehanna” were gathered on the quarter-deck of that vessel, staring at us, and probably thinking all hands drunk or crazy. Tom, who knew how far to carry the joke, now came down from his elevated position.

The sails having been loosed to dry during the day, toward evening the watch were sent up to furl them. Every thing in readiness, Tom’s whistle sounded, all hands sprang into the rigging, and mounted aloft. The sail was rolled on the yard at the sound of the whistle; the men descended from aloft, and mounted, furled a second, then a third sail, and so on through the whole programme: all was done at the sound of the boatswain’s whistle. This proceeding “astonished the natives;” the officers and crews of the several men-of-war and other vessels gazing at the new “wrinkle,” and systematic style of performing work on board a Yankee sperm whaler!

Notwithstanding the fact that numerous naval vessels belonging to the United States, England, and France are nearly all the time on this station, yet the coast and Canton River swarm with Chinese pirates. The government of China, also, has an armed junk, mounting twelve guns, stationed on the coast, for the ostensible purpose of protecting commerce; but it is pretty strongly believed that this Chinese man-of-war not only winks at the piracies committed, but is not backward about running up the black flag herself on certain occasions. About the time we arrived at Hong Kong, a brig bound to some part of the East Indies was overhauled, before she was clear of the bay, by a number of fishing-junks, as they professed to call themselves, and, after massacring nearly all the crew, and wounding the remainder—leaving them dead, as they supposed—they rifled the brig, taking away every thing they found of any value. The next morning she was found in this disabled condition by the Chinese man-of-war, who took her in tow, and brought her into port. One of the English men-of-war immediately got under weigh, and, after cruising among the various islands a few days, overhauled some of the junks and brought them in. The prisoners were immediately taken ashore and tried; several were hung, and the remainder imprisoned at hard labor for the remainder of their lives.

We had heard much of the Chinese theatre, or Sing Song, as they term it, and concluded we would pay it a visit. The building, which is a temporary erection, is very large, built of bamboo, and capable of containing four or five thousand persons. The gallery is large and commodious, it being built for the accommodation of the “fan-qui-loo” (foreign devils). The Celestials occupy the pit, and, there being no seats, they are compelled to stand. To see such a mass of heads, “all shaven and shorn,” in one compact space, swaying to and fro, and hear the continual buzz of their voices, is really amusing. And then to watch them as a policeman goes through the crowd, semi-occasionally bringing his short club down upon the bare heads of the Chinese, just heavy enough to make them sing out “Hi-yar-r-h! how can do? no proper.” Still, they make room for him, not caring to receive a second whack. After looking at the crowd below us, and wondering where they all came from, until we became somewhat restless, we were fairly startled by a most frightful, horrible din. Gongs, bells, and sundry other equally harmonious instruments were made visible, and the “orchestra” were beating and playing them as if each were paid according to the amount of noise he made, and was determined to win. This horrible music, as they termed it, appeared to increase, until we were obliged to stop our ears with our fingers, to prevent being entirely deafened. However, it ceased as suddenly as it commenced, and the performers made their appearance, dressed in the richest Chinese style. Alter going through a sort of pantomime, which lasted about half an hour, a couple of them, who appeared to be leaders of the different parties, jabbered away at each other in Chinese, and finally commenced a regular fight, which soon became general, all hands “pitching in” in the most scientific Chinese manner. Fire-crackers were burned, gongs sounded, and other warlike demonstrations generally were gone through with, until one of the parties, having killed their opponents, now dragged them from the stage. This was followed by other scenes equally interesting to those who could understand nothing that was said. The performances closed by acrobatic feats, which were equal, if not superior, to any we ever saw. We can only sum up the whole by saying the crowd was immense, the performance nonsensical, and the music horrible.

The Chinese method of erecting stone buildings is very singular; and, although it shows the inferiority of the Celestials to the “outside barbarians,” still it is very ingenious. A perpendicular bamboo wall is first built as a guide, and the stones are then laid inside and against it till the walls are complete. One would naturally think that they could lay the stone wall as perpendicular as they could build the bamboo, yet we were assured they could not. We noticed a fine building in process of erection—a masonic temple. This building was for the use of a lodge working under a charter from England, and composed of English and American residents.

We were rejoiced to learn that a “Bethel” had been established in Hong Kong, and we gladly accepted the opportunity given us of attending it. It is a floating “Bethel,” and seems especially adapted to the wants of seamen, who feel much more “at home” there than inside brick walls. The chaplain appeared to be an excellent, earnest, kind man, devoted to the cause in which he was engaged. We were pleased to notice the quiet deportment and strict attention paid to the remarks by the seamen in attendance.

We had now been in Hong Kong several weeks, and it was time for the “old man” to think of deep water again. Accordingly, on Tuesday, February 28th, we commenced preparations for sea—for our last cruise. Our provisions, water and all, were on board, and all that was wanting was the word, and the anchor would soon be apeak. A little incident transpired, however, which served to detain us a day longer. Several Chinese merchants were on board, showing their goods and doing their best endeavors to effect sales. They knew, from seeing the “Blue Peter” at the fore, that we were to sail on that day, and they were off in great numbers in consequence. Among the rest were several shoemakers, who appeared determined to sell. After a good deal of bargaining and bantering, the chief mate ordered all to leave instanter. In collecting their shoes preparatory to leaving, one of them discovered, or supposed he discovered, a pair missing, for which he had received no pay. This put him in a great rage, and he left muttering vengeance on the “’parme whaler,” as he termed it. He soon returned, however, accompanied by a policeman, who explained what he came for. The Chinaman charged one of the crew with stealing them, whose chest was immediately searched, but no shoes were found. There was now no remedy but the man must go on shore before a magistrate. In company with the chief mate, the man proceeded to the magistrate’s office, where the Chinaman was called upon to make his statement. After having sworn him as to the truth of it, the prisoner was put upon the witness’ stand and sworn. On being asked if he saw the Chinaman on board the ship with shoes for sale, he answered “yes.”

“Did you take any of those shoes unlawfully?” was the next question.

“No, sir,” was the answer.

“Did you see any person take any shoes unlawfully from the plaintiff?”

“No, sir.”

The magistrate now turned to the Celestial, and sternly remarked: “Look here, John Chinaman, if you ever come before me again with such a story, I will send you to the ‘lock-up’ for two years,” and then dismissed the case.

The following day, March 1st, we took our anchor from China soil, bade adieu to Hong Kong, and with light hearts made sail for Japan. The pilot remained with us until the day following, when we took leave of him with three hearty cheers, with three more for a “lucky cruise.”