| Introduction—An account of the various styles of “covering for feet,” before the Christian Era; with illustrations, | xv | |
| BOOK I. | ||
| CHAPTER I. | ||
| Importance of the Boot and Shoe Trade, | 9 | |
| CHAPTER II. | ||
| Rise and Progress of the Boot and Shoe Trade, | 14 | |
| CHAPTER III. | ||
| Gutta Percha—its Properties, Manufactures, &c., &c., | 19 | |
| CHAPTER IV. | ||
| Gutta Percha—its First Application as a Cement in the United States, | 39 | |
| CHAPTER V. | ||
| Gutta Percha for Belts, Harnesses, &c.; its Application to Wood Work, &c., | 43 | |
| Testimonials, | 45 | |
| CHAPTER VI. | ||
| India Rubber—its Discovery, Uses, &c., | 51 | |
| Cleaning Processes, Mackintosh Cloth, | 56 | |
| Cutting Processes, India Rubber Liquid, Braids and Webs, | 58–60 | |
| Vulcanized; Comparison of India Rubber and Gutta Percha, | 61–65 | |
| BOOK II. | ||
| CHAPTER I. | ||
| Preparation of Stock, | 66 | |
| Middle Soles; Spur or Spring Lifts; To Prepare Leather Soles; To Prepare Counters; Preparation of Stock for Cloth Shoes; Preparation of the Upper Stock; To Prepare Uppers made of any description of Leather, or part Leather and Cloth; Instructions for Lasting; Cementing Processes after Lasting; Directions for applying Thick or Thin Soles to Shoes and Boots; Remarks on Finishing; Taps or Soles for Repairing; Preparing the Boot or Shoe to be Repaired; Important Facts for Manufacturers; Compounds for Heels of Shoes or Boots; Various Fibrous Compounds for Leather Soles, &c.; Practical Hints. | ||
| CHAPTER II. | ||
| Hints and Instructions on Pattern Cutting, | 79 | |
| Diagrams on pages 82, 83, 84, 85, 87, 96, 97, 99; Fitting up Lasts for the Measurement of the Foot, 88; Cutting Boot Patterns, 89; Scales for Lasts, 91; Scales for Medium Proportions of Feet, 93; Directions for Pattern Cutting, 93–101. | ||
| CHAPTER III. | ||
| Instructions for Making French Custom Boots, Shoes and Gaiters, | 103 | |
| BOOK III. | ||
| CHAPTER I. | ||
| Discovery of the Vulcanization and Sulphurization of India Rubber in America, | 106 | |
| Nathaniel Hayward, 109; Importance of the Discovery, 113; Causes of Failure, 114; Charles Goodyear, and Interesting Account of his Trials, 114–124; Results. | ||
| CHAPTER II. | ||
| Vulcanization—Interesting Reflections, | 128 | |
| CHAPTER III. | ||
| Vulcanization—Tests of Quality of Native Gums, Power to be used in Manufacture, 136; Methods of Manufacture, &c. | ||
| CHAPTER IV. | ||
| Vulcanization—Importance of Gum Elastic for Educational Purposes, | 142 | |
| CHAPTER V. | ||
| Adulteration of India Rubber (Caoutchouc;) English System of Adulteration fully presented, | 145–164 | |
| CHAPTER IV. | ||
| Valuable Recipes—Purifying Gutta Percha, | 165 | |
| Marine Glue; India Rubber Armor; New Gutta Percha Composition; India Rubber Varnish; Water-Proofing Oil; India Rubber Teeth; Emery Paper, &c.; Cheap Method of Making Leather Water Proof. | ||
| BOOK IV. | ||
| CHAPTER I. | ||
| Gutta Percha Patents, | 174 | |
| First Patent by D. A. Brooman, fully described; Properties of Gutta Percha; Artificial Fuels; Elastic Applications; Applications in State of Solution; Patent for Improvements in Boots, Shoes and Gaiters, 181; Description of Patent, 182–186; Patent by Charles Hancock, Improvements in the Manufacture of Gutta Percha and its Application, 186: Description of Process of Making and Applying Varnishes to India Rubber Shoes, &c., 187; Method of Making Gutta Percha light, porous and spongy, 190; Varnishes, 192; Parke’s Improvements in Dyeing, 195; Hancock’s Patent for Improvements in Preparation of Gutta Percha, and Application to Manufacturing Purposes, 196–200; Re-Vulcanization, 200; Lorimier’s Patent for Combining Gutta Percha and Caoutchouc with other materials, 203; Compounds for Boots, Shoes, &c.; Hancock’s Specification for Making Water Proof Shoes, &c., 205; Claim for Making Shoes of Gutta Percha with other materials, 208; Cartley’s Patent for Varnishes, 210; Burke for Manufacture of Air-Proof and Water-Proof Fabrics, 211; Hancock’s Patent for Gutta Percha Heel Tips, 213; Varnishes, 214; Gerard’s Patent for Dissolving India Rubber and Gutta Percha, 217; Newton’s Patent Applicable to Boots, Shoes, and other coverings for the feet, 219; N. S. Dodge’s Improvements in Treating Vulcanized India Rubber and Gutta Percha. | ||
| CHAPTER II. | ||
| American Patents and Claims—Introductory, | 230 | |
| Synopsis of American Patents, commencing 1813, ending 1858, 232–284; Chaffee’s Patent, Application of India Rubber to Cloth, 233; Goodyear’s Patent, Divesting India Rubber of its Adhesive Qualities, 234; Hayward’s Patent, Sulphur Preparation, 237; Chilcott & Snell’s Patent for Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, 255; Reynold’s Patent for Composition in Tanning, 257; Edward Brown, for Improvement in Porous Elastic Cloth for Gaiters, 258; Hyatt & Meyer, Improvement in Manufacture of Boot and Shoe Soles of Gutta Percha and India Rubber, 258; J. A. Pease’s Improvement in Over-Shoes, 262; Tyer & Helm’s Improvement in Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, 264; Parmlee’s Attaching Metallic Heels to India Rubber Soles, 265; Arthur’s Machine for Cutting Boot and Shoe Uppers and Soles from India Rubber, 266; Rice & Whorf Improvement in Lasting and Applying Soles to Shoes, 269–272; Tyer & Helm, Making India Rubber Cloth, 271–272; Crockett, Making Sheets of Leather from Currier’s Shavings or Buffings, 274; N. Hayward, Preparing Elastic India Rubber Cloth, 275; Thomas C. Wales’ Water Proof Gaiter Shoes and Boots, 279; Samuel Whitmarsh, Composition for Artificial Leather, 282; Boyden & Frederick’s Composition for Varnishing Leather, 283; F. Baschnagel, for Restoring Waste Vulcanized Rubber, 284; Descriptive Index of Chemical Patents Issued in 1855–66, 284–285. | ||
| Remarks.—Many of the Patents, described in this chapter, are not here referred to, as they are not particularly applicable to the Shoe and Leather interest | ||
| BOOK V. | ||
| CHAPTER I. | ||
| Tanning, | 286 | |
| Description of the Art; Natural and Artificial Tanning, 289; Extent of the Business in the United States, 290. | ||
| CHAPTER II. | ||
| Tanning and the Tanning Woods of America, | 293 | |
| CHAPTER III. | ||
| Practical Hints on Tanning, | 301 | |
| CHAPTER IV. | ||
| Hibbard’s Process of Tanning, | 308 | |
| CHAPTER V. | ||
| Tanning Processes, | 317 | |
| The Preller Process, 318; Tanning Buckskin, 321; New Method of Tanning, 322; Dexter’s Process, 323; Fair Leather, 325. | ||
| CHAPTER VI. | ||
| Patents for Tanning, | 326 | |
| Hibbard’s Patent, 326; Towle’s Patent, 327; Enos & Hunt’s, 328. | ||
| Appendix, | 329 | |
| Jenkins’ Improved Heater and Press; Valuable Recipes for Gutta Percha and India Rubber Cement for Boots and Shoes; Varnishes, Gums and Glues, 331; Black Varnish for Boot and Shoe Edges and Heels, 333; Water-Proof Cement, 334; Shellac Varnish, 335; Glues, 336–339; Water-Proof Cloth, 340; Japanning Leather, 343; Gums, 344. | ||
| Directory. | ||