CONTENTS

PAGE
CHAPTER I
CAIRO REVISITED 1
CHAPTER II
RENEWAL OF MY ACQUAINTANCE WITH MOHAMMED BROWN AND SOME REFLECTIONS ON MATRIMONY 11
CHAPTER III
THE MOSQUE OF MURISTÂN KALAÛN, MY EXPERIENCE WITH THE FAKÍR, AND A DIGRESSION ON THE SUBJECT OF DERVISHES 22
CHAPTER IV
THE FESTIVAL OF THE ‘HASANEYN’ AND THE STORY OF THE PRINCESS ZOHRA 31
CHAPTER V
OF THE OLD AND THE NEW CAIRO, AND OF A VISIT TO THE SHEYKH AMMIN SAHEIME 43
CHAPTER VI
MY SECOND VISIT TO THE SHEYKH AND MY EXPERIENCES WITH AN UNFAITHFUL SERVANT 57
CHAPTER VII
IN WHICH I GET ANOTHER SERVANT AND HUNT FOR A CROCODILE; ALSO A CONTINUATION OF THE STORY OF PRINCESS ZOHRA 67
CHAPTER VIII
OF A CAIRO CAFÉ AND OTHER MATTERS 78
CHAPTER IX
THE COPTIC CONVENTS OF WADI NATRUN 90
CHAPTER X
THE MOSQUE OF ES-SALIH TALAI 104
CHAPTER XI
THE BLUE MOSQUE AND KASR-ESH-SHEMA 116
CHAPTER XII
THE SPHINX, AND A DISSERTATION ON TOMMY ATKINS 127
CHAPTER XIII
THE HAMSEEN, THE LAMP-SHOP, AND THE ACCESSION OF SAID PASHA 136
CHAPTER XIV
MOHAMMEDAN FESTIVALS: THE HOLY CARPET—THE FAST OF RAMADAN AND THE ASHURA 151
CHAPTER XV
MORE RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES, SPRING’S AWAKENING, AND THE CAIRENE HOUSE OF COUNT ZOGHEB 170
CHAPTER XVI
DER EL-BAHRI, AND SOME INCIDENTS WHICH TOOK PLACE DURING MY STAY THERE 178
CHAPTER XVII
DER EL-BAHRI (continued) 194
CHAPTER XVIII
THE CROSS DESERT JOURNEY TO KOSSEIR 206
CHAPTER XIX
THE VALLEY OF HAMMAMÂT 221
CHAPTER XX
THE WADI FOWAKIYEH AND BÎR HAGI SULIMAN 231
CHAPTER XXI
KOSSEIR 245
CHAPTER XXII
EDFU AND THE QUARRIES OF GEBEL SILSILEH 258
CHAPTER XXIII
MY EXPERIENCES AS AN INMATE OF A NATIVE HOSPITAL 270