LASSEN TRAILS

By
STEPHEN H. MATTESON
Former Seasonal Naturalist

Illustrations by Dorothy Matteson

A brief guide to the Trails of Lassen Volcanic National Park

National Park Service

Copyright 1963
Loomis Museum Association
Third Printing 1970
Produced in cooperation with the
National Park Service

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

Preface 3

Introduction 4

Using the Trails: A Few Tips for Beginners 5

The Trails:

1. Forest Lake and Brokeoff Mountain 10

2. Mill Creek Falls 12

3. Ridge Lakes 13

4. Sulphur Works Hot Springs 14

5. Bumpass Hell 16

6. Bumpass Hell to Cold Boiling Lake and Kings Creek Campground 18

7. Lassen Peak 20

8. Terrace, Shadow, and Cliff Lakes 22

9. Park Road to Summit Lake 23

10. Park Road to Hat Lake 24

11. Cold Boiling and Crumbaugh Lakes, Conard Meadows, Mill Creek Falls, and Sulphur Works Campground 25

12. Kings Creek Falls 26

13. Summit Lake to Echo and Twin Lakes 27

14. Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Upper Twin Lake 30

15. Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Grassy Swale Creek 32

16. Cluster Lakes 33

17. Paradise Meadows 34

18. Chaos Crags and Crags Lake 36

19. Lily Pond 37

20. Manzanita Lake 38

21. Manzanita Creek 39

22. Cinder Cone 40

23. Prospect Peak 42

24. Bathtub Lake 43

25. Butte Lake (North and East Shores) 44

26. Widow Lake 45

27. Butte Lake to Snag Lake 46

28. Horseshoe Lake to Snag Lake 47

29. Juniper Lake to Snag Lake 48

30. Inspiration Point 50

31. Crystal Lake 51

32. Mount Harkness 52

33. Boiling Springs Lake 54

34. Devil’s Kitchen 55

Map of Lassen Volcanic National Park 28-29

PREFACE

Since most of Lassen Volcanic National Park can best be seen and enjoyed by walking the trails, this booklet is written to help those who wish to know more about the park. Much can be observed from the Lassen Park Road, including some of the best scenery and most interesting geology, but to become thoroughly acquainted with the park and to appreciate fully what it has to offer, there is no better way than walking the trails.

Thirty-four trails are briefly described in this booklet. Rather than give a complete description of each trail, an attempt is made to indicate the highlights of each, giving enough information so that a hiker can decide which trails will interest him most.

The author would like to express his thanks and appreciation to a number of persons who have helped to make this publication possible: To Raymond L. Nelson, former Chief Park Naturalist, for guidance and sketch maps; Lester D. Bodine, former Chief Park Ranger; Harold L. Stanley, Robert Ball, and H. Trickey Lewis, seasonal rangers, for their aid and information; and to Dorothy Matteson, art department of Chico State College for the excellent illustrations.

INTRODUCTION

Lassen Volcanic National Park, established on August 9, 1916, and containing more than 160 square miles, is administered by the National Park Service, U. S. Department of the Interior.

The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United States for the benefit and enjoyment of its people.

Created in 1849, the Department of the Interior—America’s Department of Natural Resources—is concerned with the management, conservation, and development of the Nation’s water, wildlife, mineral, forest, and park and recreation resources. It also has major responsibilities for Indian and Territorial affairs.

As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department works to assure that nonrenewable resources are developed and used wisely, that park and recreational resources are conserved for the future, and that renewable resources make their full contribution to the progress, prosperity, and security of the United States—now and in the future.

USING THE TRAILS: A FEW TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

1. STAY ON THE TRAIL. This is usually a simple matter, but in a few places animal trails obscure the main trail. On some trails orange markers are nailed to trees to guide the hiker, and, on others, rock cairns mark the way.

2. AVOID SHORT CUTS. In the long run, they are not short cuts, as they use up more energy and are more tiring than the somewhat longer trail. They are often dangerous to the person using them and, also, dislodged rocks may injure hikers below. In addition, they always damage the trail by filling it with debris and by accelerating erosion.

3. KEEP YOUR BEARINGS. In Lassen Volcanic there are plenty of landmarks, so this should not be difficult. A good map will help, and topographic maps of Lassen are available. If you are going to return via the same trail and have any doubts about remaining on it, use the Indian method of looking back frequently.

4. BE CAREFUL WITH FIRE. A campfire should be soaked and the ashes thoroughly mixed with water until every ember is out. To build a campfire anywhere except at a regular campground you must secure a special permit from a Park Ranger. Do not smoke while hiking on the trails. When you want a smoke, sit down, break your match before throwing it away and completely extinguish the butt before leaving.

5. KEEP TOGETHER. It is the person who is separated from the rest who gets lost.

6. CONSERVE YOUR STRENGTH. The elevations in Lassen Volcanic are considerably higher than most people are used to, and you may tire more easily. If you start out at a pace which seems slow you are more likely to finish than if you hurry. Rest often.

7. CARRY A LIGHT AND COMFORTABLE PACK.

8. CARRY YOUR OWN WATER unless you know the area. The water in the streams should be pure, but the National Park Service cannot guarantee it against human pollution. Snow may be used, but only a little at a time, in order to prevent cramps.

9. KEEP THE TRAILS FREE FROM LITTER. The beauty of clean, wild places is so fragile even a bit of paper dropped can mar it.

10. WEAR PROPER CLOTHING—hiking boots for extensive or rugged hikes, and light but warm clothing. A light jacket is recommended, as hot summer days often cool quickly.

11. PLAN YOUR HIKE. By careful utilization of your time you will be able to see more and have a more enjoyable trip. Allow plenty of time. Usually it is more satisfying to thoroughly explore a few sections than to hurriedly try to see everything.

12. CONSIDER comfort items such as, bandaids, mosquito repellant, sun glasses, suntan lotion.

Mountain Hemlock Cones

THE TRAILS

No attempt is made to give a complete description of any trail, but instead to give sufficient information to enable a prospective user to know if he is likely to find a particular one interesting. Before the description of each trail, the following items are given: Starting point, distance, topography, time, and features. Many starting points are at guide marker numbers which are referred to in the Road Guide to Lassen Volcanic National Park. “Topography” refers to the vertical rise or fall. For example a “descent of 500 feet” means a drop in elevation of 500 feet. As “Time” varies considerably among different persons; an attempt is made to indicate the time needed for a leisurely hike. A young person in good condition will require less time than indicated, while a bird watcher, photographer, or naturalist might take much longer.

It is hoped that with these items indicated, as well as a description of the more interesting features of each trail, you will be able to decide which trails will offer the greatest satisfaction and enjoyment.

Opening of the trails in the park varies from year to year according to the amount of snow during the previous winter. During July, August and September most of the trails are open.

The following tables of opening dates are for years of average snowfall, and the actual dates will vary from two weeks earlier to two weeks later than indicated. Trails at lower elevations and on open slopes facing south will be available as much as a month earlier than higher trails on north slopes, or trails through heavy forest. Trail crews attempt to open some trails early, especially the Lassen Peak and Bumpass Hell trails. Even though snow has melted, down trees may prevent easy hiking until trail crews can find time to work the trails.

MAY 15

Lily Pond

Manzanita Lake

Sulphur Works

JUNE 1

Bathtub Lake

Butte Lake

Cinder Cone

JUNE 15

Boiling Springs Lake

Chaos Crags and Crags Lake

Cluster Lakes

Devil’s Kitchen Lake

Mill Creek Falls

Paradise Meadow

Summit Lake to Echo and Twin Lakes

Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Upper Twin Lake

Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Grassy Swale Creek

Widow Lake

JULY 1

Bumpass Hell

Butte Lake to Snag Lake

Cold Boiling and Crumbaugh Lakes

Crystal Lake

Forest Lake

Horseshoe Lake to Snag Lake

Inspiration Point

Juniper Lake to Snag Lake

Kings Creek Falls

Lassen Peak

Manzanita Creek

Mount Harkness

Park Road to Summit Lake

Park Road to Hat Lake

Prospect Peak

Ridge Lakes

Terrace, Shadow, and Cliff Lakes

JULY 15

Brokeoff Mountain

MAP SYMBOLS

TRAILS

ROADS

PARKING AREAS

BUILDINGS

CAMPGROUNDS

STREAMS

WATERFALLS

MOUNTAINS

LAKES

THERMAL ACTIVITY

NORTH DIRECTION

1. FOREST LAKE AND BROKEOFF MOUNTAIN

Starting Point: | Guide Marker 2
Distances: | Forest Lake, 1.5 miles; Brokeoff Mountain, 3.7 miles. Total round trip 7.4 miles
Topography: | Uphill—Forest Lake, 700 feet; Brokeoff Mountain, 2600 feet
Time: | Forest Lake, 2½ hours; Brokeoff Mountain, 5 hours
Features: | Scenic views, flowers, streams

Trail map

For sheer beauty and rugged mountain scenery the Brokeoff trail is one of the best in Lassen. From the entrance station it climbs steadily through open meadows and forest for two miles and then through the scattered hemlocks and finally above timberline to the top. Forest Lake is near the trail, and is a good objective for a leisurely nature walk. A wide variety of wildflowers will be found changing with the seasons, and the Brewer mountainheath produces an outstanding display. Birds frequently seen include juncos, chickadees, western tanagers, flycatchers, and a number of others. Deer are common.

Beyond Forest Lake the forest becomes more open. At the west end of the mountain just before the last half mile of climb, there is a good view of Mt. Shasta. From the top of the mountain there are good views of Lassen Peak, Conard, Chaos Crags, Diller, Shasta, and other mountains of the vicinity. Also, the view of the old Tehama caldera is excellent from this point.

Pikas are sometimes seen among the rocks near the top, and marmots among the rocks at lower elevations.

Snow is likely to be found in places along the trail until about mid-August, and there is usually too much snow for climbing before mid-July.

Mountain Chickadee

2. MILL CREEK FALLS

Starting Point: | Sulphur Works Campground
Distances: | 2.3 miles, round trip 4.6 miles
Topography: | Downhill about 300 feet and uphill about the same
Time: | 2½ hours
Features: | Waterfall, forest, flowers

Trail map

Mill Creek Falls is the highest waterfall in the park with a drop of 75 feet. It is at the junction of East Sulphur and Bumpass creeks. Because of the surrounding forest and rugged terrain there are only two or three points from which it can be photographed.

The trail descends to the crossing of West Sulphur Creek, crosses an open hillside and follows through forested areas to the falls. Deer are likely to be seen as well as a variety of birds. Mule-ears, also called wyethia, is the common wildflower that covers the open hillsides. Many other wildflowers, including the blue and white stickseed, can be seen. There are good views of Brokeoff Mountain and Mount Diller.

There are no fish in the streams near the falls nor for some distance below as there is too much sulphur from the thermal areas above. Farther down, the water is diluted sufficiently for fish to live.

The trail continues beyond the crossing of East Sulphur and Bumpass creeks to Kings Creek Campground. (See Cold Boiling and Crumbaugh Lakes Trail.)

3. RIDGE LAKES

Starting Point: | Sulphur Works parking area
Distances: | 1.1 miles, round trip 2.2 miles
Topography: | Rather steep climb of 1,000 feet
Time: | 2 hours
Features: | Lakes, flowers, scenic views, wildlife, forests

Trail map

These small lakes are in a cirque below the rim of the old Mount Tehama caldera. From them excellent views of Mount Diller and Diamond Peak can be seen. You will find good subjects for pictures, and naturalists will find a variety of flowers (including the striking leopard lily), birds, trees, and probably deer.

The trail follows the ridge directly above the parking area for about a half mile, going through red fir and white pine forests. It then crosses an open hillside and finally goes over the moraine below the lakes. When the water is high the two lakes are joined into one. Above the lakes game trails go up the side of the Tehama rim, which is steep and covered with loose rock. Only experienced hikers should continue, and never alone.

4. SULPHUR WORKS

Starting Point: | East end of the parking area
Distances: | 0.3 mile, round trip
Topography: | A few steep places
Time: | 25 minutes
Features: | Hydrothermal activity

Trail map

The name “Sulphur Works” was given to this area when two men, Boarman and Supan, tried unsuccessfully to develop the sulphur and clay properties in 1865. The hydrothermal activity consists of hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles. As a result of the hydrothermal activity a number of different minerals are deposited in the area giving it pastel shades of yellow, orange, green, and red. Some of the minerals found are powdery opal, chalcedony, hematite, pyrite, kaolinite, alunite, and sulphur.

It is believed that this is part of the vent system of the ancient volcano, Mount Tehama, which collapsed thousands of years ago. Signs posted along the trail explain the various features. This is the only hydrothermal area close to the park road.

As crusts may be thin with boiling water underneath, visitors are warned to stay on the trail.

Bumpass Hell

5. BUMPASS HELL

Starting Point: | Parking area by Guide Marker 17
Distances: | Round trip to view point, 2.2 miles; round trip over entire nature trail, 3.0 miles
Topography: | A gradual climb of 500 feet in the first mile, and a descent of 250 feet into the thermal area
Time: | 2 hours to view point and return, 3 hours for complete round trip
Features: | Hydrothermal activity, glacial evidence, scenic views, flowers, forest

Trail map

Bumpass Hell is the largest hydrothermal area in the park, and the trail to it is one of the most scenic. Because of the popularity of this trail it is usually opened around July 1, although occasionally the snow is too deep and opening has to be postponed. The first mile is an open and sparsely wooded mountainside with grand views of Lassen, Brokeoff, Diller, and Diamond peaks, as well as the more distant Sierra.

The hydrothermal area can be seen from the summit of the trail. Dropping into the area the trail passes by a number of hot springs, steam vents, mud pots and boiling pools. A variety of trees and wildflowers are along the trail, chiefly mountain hemlock and white-bark pine, silver leaf lupine, red penstemon, bog kalmia and other flowers. Birds, too, are abundant, and deer, marmots, and pikas may be encountered.

At the beginning of the trail is a box with self-guiding leaflets describing the numbered points of interest on the trail. We urge you to use them. You are warned to stay on the established trails as crusts are thin over some hot areas.

Lake Helen

6. BUMPASS HELL TO COLD BOILING LAKE AND KINGS CREEK

Starting Point: | Bumpass Hell parking area
Distances: | 4 miles one way
Topography: | A rise of 500 feet in the first mile followed by a descent of 1,000 feet
Time: | 5 hours, round trip
Features: | Flowers, forest, scenic views, hydrothermal activity

Trail map

Following the trail from Bumpass Hell to the Kings Creek campground furnishes an interesting variation from the usual round trip. Starting at stake 23 on the Bumpass Hell self-guiding trail, it crosses the creek and leaves the basin on the east side. It then goes downgrade for 1½ miles to Cold Boiling Lake. Along this section of the trail are good views of Mount Conard and Crumbaugh Lake, and the wildflower display, especially lupine, is exceptionally good in the open places where seeps provide moisture.

Cold gas bubbles are continuously coming from Cold Boiling Lake, hence its name. From Cold Boiling Lake the trail is in the open, passing by clumps of mountain hemlock and other trees.

By arranging for pick up at Kings Creek, this trail makes an ideal downhill hike, and cuts the time in half.

White-bark Pine

7. LASSEN PEAK

Starting Point: | Parking lot by Guide Marker 22
Distances: | 2.5 miles to top, round trip 5 miles
Topography: | 2,000 feet uphill on a steady and rather steep grade (15%), starting at 8,500 feet elevation
Time: | 4½ hours, round trip
Features: | Scenic views, recent volcanic activity, timberline trees

Trail map

Although persons of all ages have climbed Lassen Peak, it is not recommended for children under 4, unless carried part way, nor for adults past 70, unless in exceptionally good physical condition. Experienced hikers will find it a comparatively easy hike. But many who climb it are not experienced and may suffer mildly from being winded and from tired muscles and feet. Many people do not allow enough time for the trip. By starting slowly and resting often, most people should be able to reach the summit and experience the thrill of being on “top of the world”.

The mountain Chickadee and Clark’s nutcracker are commonly seen along the trail. The gnarled mountain hemlocks and white-bark pines at timberline, clinging tenaciously to the windswept slopes, are truly picturesque. Views of distant peaks and lakes are magnificent. On the very top, the skunkleaf polemonium blooms profusely in the short, snow-free season.

Take water (snow won’t really quench your thirst) and a sweater or jacket along. If you walk through the craters on top of the peak, use extreme caution. DO NOT SHORTCUT.

In the event a summer thunder storm develops, it is best to turn back. Lightning strikes outstanding projections, and the top of Lassen Peak is a favorite target. Never remain on any mountaintop during a thunder storm.

Leaflets explaining the past geologic history as well as present natural history of the peak are available to make your hike more enjoyable.

Pilot Pinnacle

8. TERRACE, SHADOW, AND CLIFF LAKES

Starting Point: | Guide Marker 27
Distances: | Terrace Lake, 0.5 mile; Shadow Lake, 0.8 mile; Cliff Lake, 1.5 miles. Round trip 3 miles
Topography: | Downhill, 300 feet to Terrace Lake, 350 to Shadow Lake, and 650 to Cliff Lake, uphill on return
Time: | Terrace Lake, 1 hour; Shadow Lake, 1½ hours, Cliff Lake, 3 hours, all round trip times
Features: | Forests, lakes, flowers

Trail map

These three jewels lie in cirques under the north base of Reading Peak, and are not difficult to reach. For the photographer they present plenty of contrasting colors, for the naturalist a variety of trees, flowers, birds, and animal life.

From the sign at the highway the trail descends rapidly. The trail forks after 0.2 of a mile, the left fork going to Hat Lake and the right fork to Terrace Lake. After Terrace Lake it passes along the shore of Shadow Lake, and then through open woods and meadows for over a half mile to the Cliff Lake junction. An animal trail goes towards Reading Peak through a meadow and over a low moraine to Cliff Lake.

Because this trail starts at a high elevation and is largely on north slopes it is not free from snow as early as many trails of the park.

9. PARK ROAD TO SUMMIT LAKE

Starting Point: | Guide Marker 27
Distances: | To road at guide marker 38, 3.7 miles; to Summit Lake, 4.2 miles; both distances one way
Topography: | Downhill, dropping 1,300 feet
Time: | 3 hours, one way
Features: | Lakes, forest, flowers, scenic views

Trail map

The first part of this trail is #8, then it continues beyond the Cliff Lake junction, down to the park road. There is a good variety of trees, wildflowers, and birds. And for a feeling of being completely in the wilderness, this trail is ideal, for a few yards off the road there are no noises of civilization nor other reminders of the bustle of the world.

Beyond the Cliff Lake turnoff the trail descends quite rapidly through the Open forest, which becomes more dense as it approaches the lower loop of the road. Lupines, both yellow and blue, are the predominant flowers along the trail. At higher elevations the mountain hemlocks are most common, but give way to red firs, white pines, and ponderosa pines as the trail descends.

By arranging for transportation at guide marker 38 where the trail crosses the road, one can have an easy hike of about 3 hours. The return hike uphill will take about twice as long as coming down.

10. PARK ROAD TO HAT LAKE

Starting Point: | Guide Marker 27
Distances: | 2.8 miles, one way
Topography: | Downhill, 1,600 feet, descending rapidly in places
Time: | 2½ hours, one way
Features: | Flowers, forests, scenic views, stream

Trail map

Starting where Trails No. 8 and 9 start, 0.2 mile from the road the left trail fork is followed, and the trail passes through forests and other natural features similar to No. 8 and 9. A number of good views of Lassen Peak can be seen along the way. For wildflowers it is one of the best in the park for variety, with lupine, scarlet gilia, red and blue penstemon, monkshood, columbine, and many others.

After separating from the Terrace Lake trail it goes through open forests, then descends rapidly before crossing the east fork of Hat Creek. Just past this crossing the Paradise Meadows trail turns to the right (south) while the Hat Creek trail turns to the left. The short trip to Paradise Meadows is well worth the time, for here you can find one of the outstanding wildflower displays of the park. The Hat Creek trail descends through the forests to the Devastated Area and Hat Lake, reaching the park road at guide marker 42. By arranging transportation at Hat Lake, the hike is an easy one, taking about 2½ hours. The round trip will require 6 or 7 hours.

11. COLD BOILING AND CRUMBAUGH LAKES, CONARD MEADOWS, MILL CREEK FALLS, AND SULPHUR WORKS CAMPGROUND

Starting Point: | Kings Creek Campground
Distances: | Cold Boiling Lake, 0.8 mile; Crumbaugh Lake, 1.3; Conard Meadows, 2.2; Mill Creek Falls, 3; Sulphur Works Campground 5.3; all distances one way
Topography: | Downhill 800 feet to campground
Time: | Cold Boiling Lake, ¾ hour; Crumbaugh Lake 1½ hours; Conard Meadows, 2 hours; Sulphur Works Campground, 4 hours. For round trips times should be at least doubled
Features: | Forests, flowers, waterfalls, lakes, scenic views, streams

Trail map

This little-traveled area is excellent for birds, wildflowers, and deer. Cold Boiling Lake is so named because gas bubbles are continually rising at some points near the shore. The meadow by Crumbaugh Lake has a variety of wildflowers and Conard Meadows is ideal for wildlife. There are no fish in either lake, as they will not live when introduced.

The trail is fairly level to Cold Boiling Lake, and then descends to Crumbaugh Lake. It is level to Conard Meadows, and from there to Mill Creek Falls descends by a steep grade (see Mill Creek Falls trail). A one-way trip to the Sulphur Works campground, arranging for transportation at the lower end, makes an ideal, easy, half-day hike.

12. KINGS CREEK FALLS

Starting Point: | Guide Marker 32
Distances: | 3 miles round trip
Topography: | Descent of 700 feet
Time: | 2½ hours
Features: | Waterfalls, cascades, forest, flowers

Trail map

About half a mile down, the trail splits. It is recommended that the left trail be followed downhill, where it rejoins the other section. The right fork follows the cascades, and is much easier to climb on the return trip. The trail goes down through pine and fir forests, and over a meadow where flowers bloom all summer. Here one can find the leopard lily, grass-of-parnassus, and many others. Watch for glacial polishing on the rocks along the way.

Morning is the best time to photograph the falls, as later in the day (after 2:00 p.m.) they are in shadow. The height of the falls is about 30 feet.

Follow the beautiful cascades (left) on the return trip. Watch for mountainash, as this is one of the few places one can see this small, shrublike tree that produces clumps of brilliant red berries in late August and September.

Below the falls the trail continues downhill to Drakesbad, another 2.5 miles.

13. SUMMIT LAKE TO ECHO AND TWIN LAKES

Starting Point: | East side of Summit Lake, from the trail that encircles the lake
Distances: | Echo lake, 2 miles; Upper Twin, 3½ miles; Lower Twin, 4 miles, one way
Topography: | Uphill 500 feet in the first mile, descending 500 feet to Lower Twin Lake
Time: | Echo Lake, 1½ hours; Upper Twin, 2½ hours; Lower Twin, 3 hours, all one way. Double these times for round trips
Features: | Lakes, forests, flowers

Trail map

This is a good nature trail, as many kinds of wildflowers, trees, and birds are found. Deer are common in the area. Swimming is good in late summer. This is also a favorite trail for overnight hikers as it leads to the wilderness area of the eastern part of the park.

Hardy hikers may wish to go beyond Twin Lakes. The trail continues past Rainbow Lake to Snag Lake, 3.5 miles, and another trail goes to Butte Lake, 5.5 miles.

LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK

High-resolution Map

14. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA UPPER TWIN LAKE

Starting Point: | East side of Summit Lake
Distances: | 8 miles, one way
Topography: | Two ridges to cross, 500 feet and 300 feet
Time: | 6 hours one way. For round trip, it will take approximately twice the time
Features: | Lakes, forest, flowers, wildlife

Trail map

This is one of the two main trails to the east part of the park. Horseshoe Lake can also be reached by a dirt road from Chester. If transportation can be arranged this trail will make a comparatively easy day’s hike. There is a campground at Horseshoe Lake, so it can make a good objective for an overnight hike. Hardy hikers can make the round trip in one day.

The first part of the trip is most of No. 13, and from Upper Twin Lake the trail goes south and passes close to the base of Crater Butte. Part of the trip is in open meadows and part through fir-pine forest.

An interesting variation for a round trip is to return via Grassy Swale Creek. (See No. 15, Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Grassy Swale Creek.)

Mountain lake

15. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA GRASSY SWALE CREEK

Starting Point: | South end of Summit Lake campground
Distances: | 8 miles, one way
Topography: | Downgrade 700 feet during first 3 miles, then gradually upgrade 500 feet
Time: | 6 hours, one way. Double the time for round trip
Features: | Flowers, forest, lakes, wildlife, streams

Trail map

Grassy Swale Creek passes through some beautiful meadows in which are found a variety of wildflowers. Sundew, a rare, insect-eating plant, may be found near the trail in the wet section of the meadow about one mile northeast of Corral Meadow. Douglas spirea also makes a colorful display here.

The trail descends along Summit Creek about 3 miles to Corral Meadow. Here it leaves the Drakesbad trail, crosses Kings Creek and follows along Grassy Swale Creek to the base of Crater Butte. It then follows on to Horseshoe Lake. It may be quite wet in places until late summer. Mosquito repellent may be needed.

This is an excellent trail for naturalists as many species of trees, flowers, birds, and mammals can be observed.

16. CLUSTER LAKES

Starting Point: | Locked gate at Budget Flat. Badger Flat is 6 miles down the dirt road which leaves the Park Road at Guide Marker 41
Distances: | First Cluster Lake, 2 miles; second, 2.5; Silver Lake, 3; Big Bear Lake, 4, one way
Topography: | Uphill 200 feet on a gradual grade
Time: | Round trips: 2½, 3, 4 and 5 hours respectively
Features: | Lakes, forest, flowers

Trail map

This group of six lakes is easily reached by the trail from Badger Flat.

Mule-ears (wyethia) puts on a magnificent display in Badger Flats, and falsehellebore is prevalent in places. Spreading phlox is especially attractive in late June and early July along the beginning of the trail, and paintbrush further up, along with Newberry penstemon or pride-of-the-mountains.

The trail passes through open forested areas in a relatively level section of Lassen. After passing the second lake the trail forks. The left trail goes to Silver Lake. The trail continues over rather level terrain past Feather Lake to Lower Twin Lake, another 2 miles.

From Big Bear Lake the trail continues 3.5 miles to Summit Lake, crossing two ridges on the way.

17. PARADISE MEADOWS

Starting Point: | Hat lake parking area, Guide Marker 42
Distances: | 1.5 miles, one way
Topography: | Uphill, 600 feet
Time: | 2 hours, one way, 3 hours for round trip
Features: | Flowers, forest, stream

Trail map

For wildflowers during midsummer Paradise Meadows is one of the best areas in the park. Elephanthead and gentian can be seen near Hat Lake; scarlet gilia along the first mile; and columbine, lupine, monkshood, penstemon (both red and blue), falsehellebore, and many other species will be found in the meadow area. Also, it is a good area to see birds and deer.

For about a mile the trail goes up rather steeply. At the meadows there are good views of Lassen and Reading peaks, and the cirque in which the meadows lie.

Upon reaching lower Paradise Meadows a trail turns to the right. This goes to the Park Road near Terrace Lake. (See Park Road to Hat Lake trail.)

Mertens Cassiope

18. CHAOS CRAGS AND CRAGS LAKE

Starting Point: | The trail leaves the Manzanita Lake Camp road about 100 yards south of the store and near the creek crossing
Distances: | 1.8 miles, one way
Topography: | Uphill about 700 feet
Time: | 3 hours, round trip
Features: | Forest, flowers, recent volcanic activity, dwarfed trees

Trail map

Chaos Crags were formed by lava being forced upward and hardening in place, similar to squeezing toothpaste out of a tube. Considerable volcanic activity took place in the crater at the north base of the Crags. As a result of this activity a huge landslide occurred, strewing rocks over 2½ square miles, including the area around Manzanita and Reflection lakes. This rock slide is called Chaos Jumbles.

The trail follows through pine-fir forests close to the edge of the Jumbles. Many saprophytes can be seen along the trail, together with pipsissewa and pyrolas.

The crater at the base of the Crags is filled with snow early in the season, later melting to form a small lake which may dry up toward the end of the summer.

The trees in the Jumbles are small, but in spite of their size, many are over 250 years old. From the age of the oldest trees it is estimated that the eruption and landslide occurred about 1690.

19. LILY POND

Starting Point: | Across the Park Road from the Manzanita Lake Visitor Center
Distances: | 1 mile
Topography: | Level
Time: | 1 hour
Features: | Trees, flowers, shrubs, ponds, recent volcanic activity

Trail map

This trail is maintained by the National Park Service primarily as a nature trail. Leaflets are available describing 43 numbered points of interest, many of which are trees, shrubs, and flowers. Ten of the 12 species of coniferous trees found in the park are along this trail. In the pond itself are aquatic plants and amphibians. The willows and alders nearby are shelters for several species of birds. Deer are frequently seen in the area, as well as ground squirrels and other small mammals. In the early summer the brilliant snowplant is quite common along the trail.

This is an excellent trail for a person to become acquainted with the flora and fauna of Lassen Volcanic National Park. Leaflets may be purchased at the trail head describing 43 points of interest.

20. MANZANITA LAKE

Starting Point: | Any place along the lake
Distances: | 1.7 miles around the lake
Topography: | Level
Time: | 1½ hours
Features: | Lake, flowers, wildlife, trees, shrubs, scenic views

Trail map

On the south side of the lake the trail goes through manzanita brush and open meadows. Along the west side is ponderosa pine forest with alder thickets by the lake. Along this stretch can be seen some of the few black cottonwood trees found in the park. On the north side is the road, with willow and alder thickets by the shore, and on the east side is the lodge and campground. From the west side are excellent views of Lassen Peak and Chaos Crags. A good variety of birds may be observed, including ducks, geese, coots, grebes, warblers, finches, swallows, blackbirds, sapsuckers, and nighthawks. Deer are frequently seen in the manzanita. An easy, pleasant walk.

21. MANZANITA CREEK

Starting Point: | South end of Manzanita lake Campground
Distances: | 3.5 miles to upper meadows, one way
Topography: | Uphill, 1,250 feet
Time: | 5 hours for the round trip
Features: | Forest, flowers, scenic views, stream

Trail map

This hike starts on a fire road that provides steady, but relatively easy climbing. The first 0.7 mile is through manzanita, and birds and smaller mammals can be observed. When the forest of red fir and lodgepole pine is reached the trail becomes much more appealing, and striking views of Chaos Crags and Lassen Peak are glimpsed through the trees.

On the last half mile, where the creek winds and tumbles through sloping meadows, the wildflower display is magnificent. Flowers bloom profusely through July and August. Walk through the upper meadows to see the Lassen paintbrush (found only in this park), the pink Lewis monkeyflower, the brilliant fireweed, both the blue and the white monkshood, and many others. Camera, binoculars, and lunch are all advisable for this trip.

22. CINDER CONE

Starting Point: | West end of Butte Lake Campground
Distances: | 2 miles to the summit, one way. A trail continues down the south side for a round trip of 5 miles.
Topography: | 800 feet climbing cone
Time: | 3 hours to the cone summit and back, 4 hours if trail down south slope is followed back to Butte Lake Campground
Features: | Forest, recent volcanic activity, history, views

Trail map

This is one of the most perfectly formed cinder cones in the United States, and one of the most recent. In the spring of 1851, pioneers following Emigrant, or Nobles, Trail saw the results of the previous winter’s eruption.

For persons interested in geology or photography this trail is a must. It goes through open forest for about 1.5 miles, close to the base of the cone, and the rest of the trail is in the open. The trail up the cone is fairly steep, and is in loose Cinders, making climbing similar to what it would be in loose sand. The climb is not difficult if made with frequent rest stops. High shoes or boots are advisable.

The Cinder Cone Summit commands excellent views of Lassen, Prospect, Harkness, and other mountains, of Butte and Snag Lakes, and of the Fantastic Lava Beds and Painted Dunes. A trail completely encircles the double crater, and a spur goes down into the crater. Another trail continues down the south side of the cone and encircles it, adding another mile for a 5 mile round trip. It passes near the 1851 vent from which lava flowed. This is now a small ice grotto.

Self-guiding leaflets which describe 44 numbered points of interest may be purchased at the Ranger Station.

Mountain Hemlock Cones

23. PROSPECT PEAK

Starting Point: | Cinder Cone Trail Marker 13
Distances: | 3.5 miles to the summit
Topography: | 2,200 feet of climbing
Time: | 5 hours for the round trip of 7 miles
Features: | Scenic views, forest

Trail map

Prospect Peak provides commanding views of Lassen, Harkness, West Prospect, Shasta, and other surrounding mountains, several lakes, and the crater of the Cinder Cone. In the early summer there is a small lake in the crater of Prospect Peak, an ancient volcano.

About a half mile from Butte Lake the trail leaves the Cinder Cone trail, and climbs steadily through ponderosa pine, fir, and sub-alpine forests to above timberline. Birds and other wildlife abound, and occasionally, bobcats or even a mountain lion may be seen.

During June and early July there is snow in the crater. No drinking water is available.

24. BATHTUB LAKE

Starting Point: | Butte Lake Parking Lot
Distances: | 0.4 mile, one way
Topography: | 70 foot climb at start
Time: | 1 hour for the round trip
Features: | Lakes, forest, flowers

Trail map

This is a delightful, easy walk through open ponderosa pine and fir forest to two small lakes. The first lake is a quarter mile and the second (Bathtub) a half mile from the camp. For good (not icy) swimming these lakes are recommended. And for a leisurely nature walk one can easily spend two hours looking for birds and flowers and identifying trees and shrubs.

25. BUTTE LAKE (North and East Shores)

Starting Point: | Butte Lake Parking Lot
Distances: | 2 miles to the south end of the lake
Topography: | Uphill 150 feet and down along the north shore, then quite level
Time: | 3 hours for the round trip
Features: | Forest, scenic views, flowers, lake

Trail map

For sheer beauty and a feeling of wilderness, this is an excellent trail. Good views of the lake and the Cinder Cone are frequent. Deer and a variety of birds, trees, and flowers may be observed.

In the first mile the trail ascends a hill overlooking the lake. After crossing Butte Creek it follows close to the shore to the south end.

From the south end of the lake the trail continues 2.5 miles to Snag Lake and another 3 miles to either Juniper or Horseshoe lakes. (See Trail No. 27, Butte Lake to Snag Lake; No. 28, Horseshoe Lake to Snag Lake; and No. 29, Juniper Lake to Snag Lake.)

26. WIDOW LAKE

Starting Point: | Butte Lake Parking Lot
Distances: | 4 miles, one way
Topography: | Climb of 1,000 feet
Time: | 5½ hours for the round trip
Features: | Lake, forest, scenic views

Trail map

The first 2 miles is trail No. 25, Butte Lake. From the Widow Lake trail are scenic views of Cinder Cone, Lassen Peak, Prospect Peak, Mount Harkness, and many other mountains of the vicinity. From the south end of Butte Lake the trail climbs rapidly, about 1,000 feet in 2 miles.

From Widow Lake the trail continues south, past the Red Cinder Cone to Jakey Lake (6 miles), and on to Juniper Lake (10 miles).

27. BUTTE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE

Starting Point: | Butte Lake Parking Lot
Distances: | 6.5 miles to south end of Snag Lake, one way
Topography: | Rise of 100 feet
Time: | 5 hours round trip to north end of Snag Lake, 8 hours round trip to south end of Snag Lake
Features: | Lakes, recent volcanic activity, forest, flowers

Trail map

The first 2 miles is Trail No. 25, Butte Lake. From the south end of Butte Lake there are two trails. One, not maintained by the Park Service, goes by the base of the lava flow, and the other goes through the forest to Snag Lake. Along the lava flow one can easily picture the volcanic activity as the trail winds close to huge basalt blocks.

The two trails come together at the bay on the east shore and one trail continues to the south end of the lake. From this point a trail leads to Juniper Lake, another to Horseshoe Lake, and another around Snag Lake and back to Butte Lake via the Cinder Cone. The total distances from Butte Lake are: to Juniper or Horseshoe lakes, 10 miles; and around Snag Lake and the Cinder Cone back to Butte Lake, 13 miles.

28. HORSESHOE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE

Starting Point: | Horseshoe Lake Ranger Station
Distances: | 3 miles, one way, to southern end of Snag lake
Topography: | Descent of 600 feet
Time: | 3½ hours, round trip
Features: | Lakes, stream, flowers, forest, history

Trail map

In the meadow northeast of the Horseshoe Lake Ranger Station the remains of an early settler’s cabin can be seen, and many wildflowers and birds. The trail follows Grassy Creek much of the way to Snag Lake.

Snag Lake was created by lava flows from Cinder Cone damming Grassy Creek. The trees that were killed slowly rotted and fell into the lake, but in the early days of the park there were many standing snags to be seen. Since the lake seeps through lava, the level varies considerably from year to year and season to season, depending on the rains.

Trails follow both the east and west sides of Snag Lake, continuing to Butte Lake. (See Trail No. 27.)

29. JUNIPER LAKE TO SNAG LAKE

Starting Point: | Juniper Lake Ranger Station
Distances: | 3 miles, one way, to southern end of Snag Lake
Topography: | Climb 240 feet in first half mile, followed by a descent of 1,000 feet
Time: | 4½ hours, round trip
Features: | Lakes, stream, flowers, forest, history

Trail map

Wildflowers bloom profusely in Cameron Meadows during July and often into August, and it is a good area for birds and deer. Here, also, are the remains of an early settler’s cabin.

The trail is shaded by ponderosa pine and fir forest most of the way, except for a short stretch at Cameron Meadows. From here it swings close to the east fork of Grassy Creek and continues on to Snag Lake.

From Snag Lake Trail No. 27 continues on to Butte Lake.

Jeffrey Pine

30. INSPIRATION POINT

Starting Point: | Juniper Lake Ranger Station
Distances: | 0.8 mile to the overlook
Topography: | Climb of 400 feet
Time: | 2½ hours for the round trip
Features: | Scenic views, forest

Trail map

Inspiration Point is well named, as it affords some of the finest views of Lassen, Harkness, Prospect, and more distant mountains. Snag, Butte, and Juniper lakes are in full view, as well as Cameron Meadows and Cinder Cone. To the southeast of the trail, as you approach Inspiration Point, look for the fine specimens of western juniper. The trail climbs steadily through western white pine and red fir timber to the open area of the point. Various birds may be seen as well as deer and small mammals.

31. CRYSTAL LAKE

Starting Point: | From along the road on the east side of Juniper Lake about a mile from the ranger station
Distances: | 0.4 mile, one way
Topography: | Climb of 450 feet
Time: | 1 hour, round trip
Features: | Lake, scenic views, forest

Trail map

This lake lies in a cirque below the Crystal Cliffs. From the trail are views of Juniper Lake, Lassen and other peaks. Many consider it the most beautiful lake in Lassen. A relatively easy hike through forests and meadows surrounding the lake.

32. MOUNT HARKNESS

Starting Point: | Juniper Lake near campground at the southeast end
Distances: | 2 miles to the summit of Mount Harkness
Topography: | 1,300-foot climb
Time: | 4 hours for the round trip
Features: | Forest, scenic views

Trail map

The trail winds upward through the pine-fir forest. On top of Mount Harkness is the only fire lookout station in the park. From it are outstanding views of Juniper Lake and Lassen, Brokeoff, Prospect, and other peaks in the park, as well as the Sierra to the south and other mountains to the east and north. On top, the brilliant red bloom of the smooth cycladenia brightens the rocky slopes during July.

The lookout is staffed during the summer months and usually these people are glad to have visitors provided water or food are not requested. All of their supplies must be packed to the mountain top.

By proceeding down the west side of Mount Harkness, then turning northeast along the shores of Juniper Lake, an interesting all-day hike can be had. The round trip will require about 6 hours and involve about 5½ miles of hiking.

Trail map

33. BOILING SPRINGS LAKE

Starting Point: | Drakesbad Lodge
Distances: | 1 mile to the lake, 2 miles round trip
Topography: | Easy 200-foot climb
Time: | 2 hours for the round trip
Features: | Flowers, forest, hydrothermal activity

Trail map

A number of steam vents are located under Boiling Springs Lake, keeping the temperature of the lake around 125 degrees. The mudpots on the southeast shore are among the best in the park. Their coloring is magnificent.

The trail crosses a meadow and then goes through forest to the lake and around it. Trees include incense-cedar, ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, white fir, sugar pine, and others. A variety of wildflowers are found, and it is a good area to observe birds.

At the beginning of the trail hikers can pick up a leaflet describing 44 points of interest. These refer to trees, shrubs, flowers, geology, and other nature subjects. This is a relatively easy walk and one can profitably spend half a day using the leaflet.

34. DEVIL’S KITCHEN

Starting Point: | Drakesbad Lodge
Distances: | 1.5 miles one way
Topography: | Gradually uphill 300 feet
Time: | 2½ hours for the round trip
Features: | Flowers, forest, hydrothermal activity

Trail map

This hydrothermal area is larger than the Sulphur Works, smaller than Bumpass Hell, and differs from both. Hot Springs Creek runs through the area, and on a shelf just above this creek are a number of mudpots. Whoever named this area apparently imagined the devil cooking over these pots. The area extends above and beyond the mudpots with a number of steam vents on the side of the hill. And at the lower end are a group of trees which were killed quite recently when new vents opened up. In exploring the hot springs area, hikers should be extremely careful as crusts may be thin and trails thru the area have not been established.

The trail to Devil’s Kitchen crosses a meadow near Drakesbad (where one should look for wildflowers) and enters the forest. Just beyond the meadow are some dead snags where marmots are frequently seen. Further along, just below the trail and in the creek are some beaver dams.

This is an excellent trail for those interested in biology and geology.

Trails not described in the booklet:

Kings Creek to Drakesbad, 5 miles, downhill

Around Butte and Snag lakes via Cinder Cone, 13 miles

Butte Lake to Rainbow and Twin lakes, 7 miles

Summit Lake to Rainbow and Snag Lakes, 6 and 8 miles

Juniper Lake to Jakey Lake, 3 miles

Juniper Lake to Jakey, Widow, and Butte lakes, 12 miles

Around Juniper Lake, 5½ miles

Drakesbad to Drake Lake, 1½ miles

Kings Creek to Twin Meadows, 2½ miles

These trails are shown on the topographic map of Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Experienced hikers may want to visit places not on the trails, and with a topographic map as a guide should be able to go to a number of places in comparative safety. But beginners should stick to the established trails. Before venturing off the trails one should consult with a park ranger.

INDEX

| Trail No. | Page No.
Bathtub Lake | 24 | 43
Boiling Springs Lake | 33 | 54
Brokeoff Mountain | 1 | 10
Bumpass Hell | 5, 6 | 16, 18
Butte Lake | 25, 27 | 44, 46
Cinder Cone | 22 | 40
Chaos Crags | 18 | 36
Cliff Lake | 8 | 22
Cluster Lakes | 16 | 33
Cold Boiling Lake | 6, 11 | 18, 25
Conard Meadows | 11 | 25
Crags Lake | 18 | 36
Crumbaugh Lake | 11 | 25
Crystal Lake | 31 | 51
Devil’s Kitchen | 34 | 55
Echo Lake | 13 | 27
Forest Lake | 1 | 10
Grassy Swale Creek | 15 | 32
Hat Lake | 10, 17 | 24, 34
Horseshoe Lake | 14, 15, 28 | 30, 32, 47
Inspiration Point | 30 | 50
Juniper Lake | 29 | 48
Kings Creek Falls | 12 | 26
Lassen Peak | 7 | 20
Lily Pond | 19 | 37
Manzanita Lake | 20 | 38
Mill Creek Falls | 2, 11 | 12, 25
Mount Harkness | 32 | 52
Paradise Meadows | 10, 17 | 24, 34
Prospect Peak | 23 | 42
Ridge Lakes | 3 | 13
Shadow Lake | 8 | 22
Snag Lake | 27, 28, 29 | 46, 47, 48
Summit Lake | 9, 13, 14, 15 | 23, 27, 30, 32
Sulphur Works Hot Springs | 4 | 14
Terrace Lake | 8 | 22
Twin Lakes | 13, 14 | 27, 30
Widow Lake | 26 | 45

Transcriber’s Notes

Silently corrected a few typos.

Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.