Heaves.
—I.—Balsam copaiba, 1 ounce; spirits of turpentine, 2 ounces; balsam fir, 1 ounce; cider vinegar, 16 ounces.

Tablespoonful once a day.

II.—Saltpeter, 1 ounce; indigo, 1/2 ounce; rain or distilled water, 4 pints.

Dose: 1 pint twice a day.

Hide Bound.—
Elecampane 2 ounces
Licorice root 2 ounces
Fœnugreek 2 ounces
Rosin 2 ounces
Copperas   1/2 ounce
Ginger 2 drachms
Gentian 1 drachm
Saltpeter 1 drachm
Valerian 1 drachm
Linseed meal 3 ounces
Sublimed sulphur 1 ounce
Black antimony 4 drachms

Tablespoonful twice a day.

Horse Embrocations And Liniments.

I.— Camphor   1 ounce
Acetic acid  15 ounces
Alcohol  18 ounces
Oil turpentine  51 ounces
Eggs   6
Distilled witch hazel  45 ounces
II.— Iodine  50 grains
Pot iodide 125 grains
Soap liniment   6 ounces

Influenza.

I.— Ammonia muriate 1 1/2 ounces
Gum camphor   1/2 ounce
Pot chloride 1 ounce
Extract licorice, powdered 2 ounces
Molasses, q.s.

Make a mass. Dose: Tablespoonful in form of pill night and morning.

II.— Ammonium chloride  30 parts
Potassium nitrate  30 parts
Potassium sulphate in little crystals 100 parts
Licorice powder  65 parts

Mix. Dose: A ta­ble­spoon­ful, in a warm mash, 3 times daily.

Inflammation Of The Udder.

I.— Salicylic acid 40 grains
Mercurial ointment  1 ounce
Liniment of camphor  3 1/4 ounces
Apply and rub the udder carefully twice a day.
II.— Belladonna root  1 drachm
Oil turpentine  1 ounce
Camphor  1 drachm
Solution green soap, q.s.  6 ounces

Mix and make a liniment. Bathe the udder several times with hot water. Dry and apply above liniment.

Mange.

Sulphur is a specific for mange; the trouble consists in its application. The {732} old-fashioned lotion of train oil and black sulphur serves well enough, but for stabled animals something is wanted which will effectually destroy the parasites in harness and saddlery without injury to those expensive materials. The creosote emulsions and coal-tar derivatives generally are fatal to the sarcopts if brought into actual contact, but a harness pad with ridges of accumulated grease is a sufficient retreat for a few pregnant females during a perfunctory disinfection, and but a few days will be needed to reproduce a new and vigorous stock. A cheap and efficient application can be made by boiling together flowers of sulphur and calcis hydras in the proportion of 4 parts of the former to 1 of the latter, and 100 of water, for half an hour. It should be applied warm, or immediately after washing with soft soap.

Milk Powder For Cows.

—For increasing the flow of milk, in cows, Hager recommends the following mixture:
Potassium nitrate  1 part
Alum  1 part
Sublimed sulphur  1 part
Prepared chalk  1 part
White bole  2 parts
Red clover  5 parts
Anise 10 parts
Fennel 10 parts
Salt 10 parts

All should be in tolerably fine powder and should be well mixed. The directions are to give 1 or 2 handfuls with the morning feed.

Laxatives.

I.— Aloes  1 drachm
Soap 12 drachms
Caraway  4 drachms
Ginger  4 drachms
Treacle, q.s.

Make 4 balls. Dose: 1 daily.

II.— Rochelle salts   2 ounces
Aloes, powdered 150 grains
Linseed meal 150 grains

One dose, given in warm water.

Lice.—

Crude oil 1 ounce
Oil tar 1 ounce
Oil cedar 1 drachm
Cottonseed oil 5 ounces

Apply to parts.

Domestic Pets.

The sarcoptic itch of the dog, as well as that of the cat, is transmissible to man.

The Tinea tonsurans, the so-called barbers’ itch, due to a trychophyton, and affecting both the dog and cat, is highly contagious to man. Favus, Tinea favos, caused by achorion schoenleini, of both animals, is readily transmissible to human beings. The dog carries in his intestines many kinds of tœnia (tapeworm), among them Tœnia echinococcus, the eggs of which cause hydatic cysts. Hydatic cysts occur in persons who are always surrounded with dogs, or in constant contact with them.

Aviar diphtheria (i.e., the diphtheria of birds), caused by at least two microbes (bacillus of Klebs-Loeffler and bacillus coli), may easily be transmitted to man and cause in him symptoms analogous to those of true diphtheritic angina.

Parrots are subject to an infectious enteritis which may be communicated to human beings, giving rise to the so-called psittacosis (from the Greek, psitta, a parrot), of which there have been a number of epidemics in France. It is determined by the bacillus of Nocard.

Human tuberculosis is certainly transmitted to dogs, cats, and birds. Cadiot, Gibert, Roger, Benjamin, Petit, and Basset, as well as other observers, cite cases where dogs, cats, and parrots, presenting all the lesions of tuberculosis, were shown to have contracted it from contact with human beings; while there are no recorded cases, there can scarcely be a natural doubt that man may, in a similar manner, become attainted through them, and that their tuberculosis constitutes an actual danger to man.

Need we recall here the extraordinary facility with which hydrophobia is communicated to man through the dog, cat, etc.?

We may, therefore, conclude that we should not permit these animals to take up so much space in our apartments, nor should they be petted and caressed either by adults or children in the reckless manner common in many households. The disgusting habit of teaching animals to take bits of food, lumps of sugar, etc., from between the lips of members of the family is also to be shunned.

Finally, any or all of them should be banished from the house the moment that they display certain morbid symptoms. Besides, in certain cases, there should be a rigid prophylaxis against certain diseases—as echinococcus, for instance.

Worms.
—In cats and dogs, round worms, of which ascaris mystax is the {733} most common in cats, are found chiefly in young animals. This worm has hirsute appendages somewhat resembling a mustache. To treat an animal infected with such “guests,” the patient should be made to fast for 24 hours. For a small kitten 1/2 grain of santonin, up to a grain or two for large cats, followed in an hour by a dose of castor oil, is recommended. To avoid spilling the oil on the animal’s coat the “doctor” should have it heated and whipped with warm milk. Another way to get cats to take it is to smear it on the bottoms of their front feet, when they will lick it off.

Areca nut, freshly ground by the druggist himself and administered in liberal doses, say 30 to 60 grains, will usually drive out any worms in the alimentary canal.

It is important that animals successfully treated for worms once should undergo the treatment a second or third time, as all the parasites may not have been killed or removed the first time, or their progeny may have developed in the field vacated by the parents.

The following is an effective formula:

German wormseed, powdered 1 drachm
Fluid extract of spigelia 3 drachms
Fluid extract of senna 1 drachm
Fluid extract of valerian 1 drachm
Syrup of buckthorn 2 ounces

Dose: From 1/2 to 1 teaspoonful night and morning.

Foot Itch.

—The itch that affects the feet of poultry is contagious in a most insidious way. The various birds of a poultry yard in which the disease is prevalent, rarely contract it until after a comparatively long period of exposure, but sooner or later every bird will contract it. One infected bird is enough to infect a whole yard full, and once infected, it is exceedingly difficult to get rid of. The disease, however, affects birds only.

The treatment is simple. Having softened the feet by keeping them for some minutes in tepid water, the scabs that cover them are carefully detached, avoiding, as far as possible, causing them to bleed, and taking the precaution of throwing every scab into the fire. The feet are then carefully dried, with a bit of soft cotton material, which should afterwards be burned; then the entire surface is covered with ointment (Unguentum sulphuris kalinum). An alcoholic solution of Canada balsam is preferred by some. Protect the ointment by a proper appliance, and allow it to remain in contact 2 or 3 days. At the end of this time remove the applications and wash off with tepid suds. The bird will generally be found cured, but if not, repeat the treatment—removing the remaining scabs, which will be found soft enough without resorting to soaking in tepid water, and apply the ointment directly.

There is another method of treatment that has been found successful, which not only cures the infected birds but prevents the infection of others. It is simply providing a sand bath for the birds, under a little shed, where they can indulge themselves in rolling and scratching, the bath being composed of equal parts fine sand, charcoal in fine powder, ashes, and flowers of sulphur, sifted together. The bath should be renewed every week. In the course of a few weeks the cure is complete.

Foods.—

I.— Powdered egg shell or phosphate of lime 4 ounces
Iron sulphate 4 ounces
Powdered capsicum 4 ounces
Powdered Fœnugreek 2 ounces
Powdered black pepper 1 ounce
Silver sand 2 ounces
Powdered lentils 6 ounces

A ta­ble­spoon­ful to be mixed with sufficient feed for 20 hens.

II.— Oyster shell, ground 5 ounces
Magnesia 1 ounce
Calcium carbonate 3 ounces
Bone, ground 1 1/2 ounces
Mustard bran 1 1/2 ounces
Capsicum 1 ounce

Powders.—

I.— Cayenne pepper 2 parts
Allspice 4 parts
Ginger 6 parts

Powder and mix well together. A teaspoonful to be mixed with every pound of food, and fed 2 or 3 times a week. Also feed fresh meat, finely chopped.

II.— Powdered egg shells 4 parts
Powdered capsicum 4 parts
Sulphate of iron 4 parts
Powdered Fœnugreek 2 parts
Powdered black pepper 1 part
Sand 2 parts
Powdered dog biscuit 6 parts

A ta­ble­spoon­ful to be mixed with sufficient meal or porridge to feed 20 hens. {734}

Lice Powders.—

I.— Sulphur 4 ounces
Tobacco dust 6 ounces
Cedar oil   1/4 ounce
White hellebore 4 ounces
Crude naphthol 1 ounce
Powdered chalk, q.s. 2 pounds
II.— Sulphur 1 ounce
Carbolic acid   1/4 ounce
Crude naphthol 1 ounce
Powdered chalk 1 pound

Roup Or Gapes.

—Roup in poultry is caused by the presence of parasites or entozoa in the windpipe. Young birds are most commonly affected. The best method of treatment is to expose the affected bird to the fumes of heated carbolic acid until on the point of suffocation. The bird may be placed in a box with a hot brick, and carbolic acid placed thereon. The fowls soon recover from the incipient suffocation, and are almost always freed from the disease. Care must be taken to burn the parasites coughed out, and the bodies of any birds which may die of the disease. The following powders for the treatment of “roup” in poultry have been recommended:
I.— Potassium chlorate 1 ounce
Powdered cubebs 1 ounce
Powdered anise   1/2 ounce
Powdered licorice 1 1/2 ounces
Mix a teaspoonful with the food for 20 hens.
II.— Ammonium chloride 1 ounce
Black antimony   1/4 ounce
Powdered anise   1/2 ounce
Powdered squill   1/4 ounce
Powdered licorice 2 ounces
Mix and use in the foregoing.

For Sheep:

Dips.
—For the prevention of “scab” in sheep, which results from the burrowing of an acarus or the destruction of the parasite when present, various preparations of a somewhat similar character are used. The following formulas for sheep dips are recommended by the United States Department of Agriculture:
I.— Soap  1 pound
Crude carbolic acid  1 pint
Water 50 gallons

Dissolve the soap in a gallon or more of boiling water, add the acid, and stir thoroughly.

II.— Fresh skimmed milk 1 gallon
Kerosene 2 gallons

Churn together until emulsified, or mix and put into the mixture a force pump and direct the stream from the pump back into the mixture. The emulsification will take place more rapidly if the milk be added while boiling hot.

Use 1 gallon of this emulsion to each 10 gallons of water required.

Constipation.—
I.— Green soap 150 grains
Linseed oil   1 1/2 ounces
Water  15 ounces
Give 1/5 every 1/2 hour till action takes place.
II.— Calomel   1 1/2 grains
Sugar  15 grains

One dose.

Loss Of Appetite.—
Sodium sulphate, dried 90 grains
Sodium bicarbonate 30 grains
Rhubarb 30 grains
Calamus 90 grains

Form the mass into 6 pills. Give one twice daily.

Inflammation Of The Eyes.—
Zinc sulphate 20 grains
Mucilage quince seed  4 ounces
Distilled water  4 ounces

Bathe eyes twice daily.

VINEGAR

I.—Into a hogshead with a large bunghole put 1,500 parts, by weight, of honey, 125 parts of carob-pods, cut into pieces, 50 parts of powdered red or white potassium bitartrate, 125 parts of powdered tartaric acid, 2,000 parts of raisin stems, 400 parts of the best brewers’ yeast, or 500 of leaven rubbed up in water; add 16,000 parts of triple vinegar and 34,000 parts of 40 per cent spirit, containing no fusel oil. Stir all vigorously together; fill up the hogshead with hot water (100° F.), close the bunghole with gauze to keep out insects, and let the contents of the cask stand for from 4 to 6 weeks or until they have turned to vinegar. The temperature of the room should be from 77° to 88° F.

Draw off half the vinegar, and fill the hogshead up again with 15 parts of soft water and 1 part of spirit (40 per cent). Do this 4 times, then draw off all the vinegar and begin the first process over again. This method of making vinegar is suitable for households and small dealers, but would not suffice for {735} wholesale manufacturers, since it would take too long to produce any large amount.

II.—Put into an upright wine cask open at the top, 14,000 parts, by weight, of lukewarm water, 2,333 parts of 60 per cent alcohol, 500 parts of brown sugar, 125 parts of powdered red or white potassium bitartrate, 250 parts of good brewers’ yeast, or 125 parts of leaven, 1,125 parts of triple vinegar, and stir until the substances are dissolved. Lay a cloth and a perforated cover over the cask and let it stand in a temperature of 72° to 77° F. from 4 to 6 weeks; then draw off the vinegar. The thick deposit at the bottom, the “mother of vinegar,” so called, can be used in making more vinegar. Pour over it the same quantities of water and alcohol used at first; but after the vinegar has been drawn off twice, half the first quantity of sugar and potassium bitartrate, and the whole quantity of yeast, must be added. This makes excellent vinegar.

III.—A good strong vinegar for household use may be made from apple or pear peelings. Put the peelings in a stone jar (not glazed with lead) or in a cask, and pour over them water and a little vinegar, fermented beer, soured wine, or beet juice. Stir well, cover with a linen cloth and leave in a warm room. The vinegar will be ready in 2 or 3 weeks.

IV.—Two wooden casks of any desired size, with light covers, are provided. They may be called A and B. A is filled with vinegar, a tenth part of this is poured off into B, and an equal amount of fermented beer, wine, or any other sweet or vinous liquid, or a mixture of 1,125 parts, by weight, of alcohol, 11,500 to 14,000 parts of water, and 1,125 parts of beet juice, put into A.

When vinegar is needed, it is drawn out of B, an equal quantity is poured from A into B and the same quantity of vinegar-making liquids put into A. In this way vinegar is constantly being made and the process may go on for years, provided that the casks are large enough so that not more than a tenth of the contents of A is used in a week. If too much is used, so that the vinegar in the first cask becomes weak, the course of the vinegar making is disturbed for a long time, and this fact, whose importance has not been understood, prevents this method—in its essential principles the best—from being employed on a large scale. The surplus in A acts as a fermentative.

Aromatic Vinegar.

—I.—Sixteen ounces glacial acetic acid, 40 drops oil of cloves, 40 drops oil of rosemary, 40 drops oil of bergamot, 16 drops oil of neroli, 30 drops oil of lavender, 1 drachm benzoic acid, 1/2 ounce camphor, 30 to 40 drops compound tincture of lavender, 3 ounces spirit of wine. Dissolve the oils, the benzoic acid, and the camphor in the spirit of wine, mix with acetic acid and shake until bright, lastly adding the tincture of lavender to color.

II.—Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each 1/2 ounce; bruised nutmegs, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each 1/4 of an ounce; rectified alcohol, 4 ounces; concentrated acetic acid, 16 ounces. Macerate the materials for a day in the alcohol; then add the acid and digest for 1 week longer at a temperature of 490° F. Finally press out the now aromatised acid and filter it.

Cider Vinegar.

—By “artificial vinegar” is meant vinegar made by the quick method with beechwood shavings. This cannot be carried out with any economy on a small scale, and requires a plant. A modification of the regular plan is as follows: Remove the head from a good tight whisky barrel, and put in a wooden faucet near the bottom. Fill the barrel with corn cobs and lay an empty coffee sack over them. Moisten the cobs by sprinkling them with some good, strong, natural vinegar, and let them soak for a few hours. After the lapse of 2 or 3 hours draw off the vinegar and again moisten the cobs, repeating this until they are rendered sour throughout, adding each time 1 quart of high wines to the vinegar before throwing it back on the cobs. This prevents the vinegar from becoming flat, by the absorption of its acetic acid by the cobs. Mix a gallon of molasses with a gallon of high wine and 14 gallons of water and pour it on the cobs. Soak for 8 hours, then draw off and pour on the cobs again. Repeat this twice daily, until the vinegar becomes sour enough to suit. By having a battery of barrels, say 4 barrels prepared as above, the manufacture may be made remunerative, especially if the residue of sugar casks in place of molasses, and the remnants of ale, etc., from the bar-rooms around town are used. All sugar-containing fruit may be utilized for vinegar making.

WARTS

Wart Cure.—The following is especially useful in cases where the warts are very numerous:

I.— Chloral hydrate 1 part
Acetic acid 1 part
Salicylic acid 4 parts
Sulphuric ether 4 parts
Collodion 5 parts

Mix. Directions: Every morning apply the foregoing to the warts, painting one coat on another. Should the mass fall off without taking the warts with it, repeat the operation. Take, internally 10 grains of burnt magnesia daily.

II.— Sulphur 10 parts
Acetic acid  5 parts
Glycerine 25 parts

Keep the warts covered with this mixture.

WATCHMAKERS’ FORMULAS

Watch Manufacturers’ Alloys.

Some very tenacious and hard alloys, for making the parts of watches which are not sensitive to magnetism, are as follows:

I II III IV V VI VII
Platinum 62.75 62.75 62.75 54.32  0.5  0.5
Copper 18 16.20 16.20 16 18.5 18.5 25
Nickel 18 18 16.50 24.70  2  1
Cadmium  1.25  1.25  1.25  1.25
Cobalt  1.50  1.96
Tungsten  1.80  1.80  1.77
Palladium 72 72 70
Silver  6.5  7  4
Rhodium  1
Gold  1.5

A non-magnetic alloy for watch-springs, wheels, etc.: Gold, 30 to 40 parts; palladium, 30 to 40 parts; copper, 10 to 20 parts; silver, 0.1 to 5 per cent; cobalt, 0.1 to 2.5 per cent; tungsten, 0.1 to 5 per cent; rhodium, 0.1 to 5 per cent; platinum, 0.1 to 5 per cent.

An Alloy For Watch Pinion Sockets.
—Gold, 31 parts; silver, 19 parts; copper, 39 parts; palladium, 1 part.

Replacing Rubies Whose Settings Have Deteriorated.

—Enlarge, with the squarer (steel brooch for enlarging holes), the hole of the old setting, and adjust it, with hard rubbing, to the extremity of a stem of pierced brass wire. Take the stem in an American nippers, and set the ruby at the extremity (the setting may be driven back by using a flat burnishing tool, very gently). Then take off with a cleaving file the part of the stem where the ruby is set, and diminish it to the thickness desired, by filing on the finger, or on cork. These operations finished, {737} a set stopper is obtained which now needs only to be solidly fixed at the suitable height, in the hole prepared.

To Straighten Bent Teeth.

—Bent teeth are straightened by means of the screwdriver used as a lever against the root of the adjacent teeth, and bent pivots may be held in the jaws of the pliers and the pinion bent with the fingers in the direction and to the extent required. For such a purpose, pliers having the jaws lined with brass are used so that the pivot is not bruised, and the bending has to be done with great care.

To Renew A Broken Barrel Tooth.

—Frequently, in consequence of the breaking of a spring, a tooth of a barrel is broken. Sometimes it may only be bent, in which case the blade of a penknife may be used with care. If 2 or 3 successive teeth are lacking, the best way is to change the barrel, but a single tooth may be easily renewed in this way: Drill a hole through the thickness of the tooth, taking care not to penetrate the drum; then fit in a piece of metal tightly and give it, as well as possible, the correct form of the tooth. To assure solidity, solder it; then clean and round the edges. Properly executed the repair will scarcely be noticed.

Heated Sawdust.

—Sawdust is known to have been employed from time immemorial by watchmakers and goldsmiths for the purpose of drying rinsed articles. The process of drying can be accelerated four-fold if the sawdust is heated before use. This must, however, be done with great caution and constant stirring.

To Repair A Dial, Etc., With Enamel Applied Cold.

—There are two kinds of false enamel for application, when cold, to damaged dials. The first, a mixture of white rosin and white lead, melts like sealing wax, which it closely resembles. It is advisable when about to apply it to gently heat the dial and the blade of a knife, and with the knife cut the piece of enamel of the requisite size and lay it on the dial. The new enamel must project somewhat above the old. When cold the surface is leveled by scraping, and a shining surface is at once produced by holding at a little distance from the flame of a spirit lamp. It is necessary to be very careful in conducting this operation, as the least excess of heat will burn the enamel and turn it yellow. It is, however, preferable to the following although more difficult to apply, as it is harder and does not become dirty so soon. The second false enamel contains white lead mixed with melted white wax. It is applied like cement, neatly filling up the space and afterwards rubbing with tissue paper to produce a shining surface. If rubbed with a knife blade or other steel implement its surface will be discolored.

Lettering A Clock Dial.

—Painting Roman characters on a clock dial is not such a difficult task as might at first be imagined. If one has a set of drawing instruments and properly proportions the letters, it is really simple. The letters should be proportioned as follows: The breadth of an “I” and a space should equal 1/2 the breadth of an “X,” that is, if the “X” is 1/2 inch broad, the “I” will be 3/16 inch broad and the space between letters inch, thus making the “I” plus one space equal to 1/4 inch or half the breadth of an “X.” The “V’s” should be the same breadth as the “X’s.” After the letters have been laid off in pencil, outline them with a ruling pen and fill in with a small camel’s-hair brush, using gloss black paint thinned to the proper consistency to work well in the ruling pen. Using the ruling pen to outline the letters gives sharp straight edges, which it would be impossible to obtain with a brush in the hands of an inexperienced person.

Verification Of The Depthings.

—In the verge watches, the English watches, and those of analogous caliber, it is often difficult to verify the depthings, except by the touch. For this reason we often find the upper plate pierced over each depth. In the jeweled places, instead of perforating the upper plate, it suffices to deposit a drop of very limpid oil on the ruby, taking care that it does not scatter. In this manner a lens is formed and one may readily distinguish the depthing.

To Make Or Enlarge A Dial Hole.

—By wetting the graver or the file with spirit of turpentine, cracks may be avoided and the work will be accomplished much quicker.

To Repair A Repeating Clock-bell.

—When the bell is broken, whether short off or at a distance, file it away and pierce it, and after having sharpened a little the stem of the spring which remains, push by force, in the hole just made, a thin piece of solder (pewter). The sound will not have changed in any appreciable manner.

A seconds pendulum of a regulator, which has no compensation for temperature will cause the clock to lose about {738} 1 second per day for each 3 degrees of increase in heat. A watch without a compensation balance will lose 6.11 seconds in 24 hours for each increase of 1° F. in heat.

To Remedy Worn Pinions.

—Turn the leaves or rollers so that the worn places upon them will be toward the arbor or shaft and fasten them in that position. If they are “rolling pinions,” and they cannot be secured otherwise, a little soft solder should be used.

Watchmakers’ Oil.

—I.—Put some lead shavings into neat’s foot oil, and allow to stand for some time, the longer the better. The lead neutralizes the acid, and the result is an oil that never corrodes or thickens.

II.—Stir up for some time best olive oil with water kept at the boiling point; then after the two fluids have separated, decant the oil and shake up with a little freshly burned lime. Let the mixture stand for some weeks in a bottle exposed to the sunlight and air, but protected from wet and dirt. When filtered, the oil will be nearly colorless, perfectly limpid, and will never thicken or become rancid.

To Weaken A Balance Spring.

—A balance spring may need weakening; this is effected by grinding the spring thinner. Remove the spring from the collet and place it upon a piece of pegwood cut to fit the center cod. A piece of soft iron wire, flattened so as to pass freely between the coils and charged with a little powdered oilstone, will serve as a grinder, and with it the strength of the spring may soon be reduced. Operations will be confined to the center coil, for no other part of the spring will rest sufficiently against the wood to enable it to be ground, but this will generally suffice. The effect will be rather rapid; therefore care should be taken or the spring may be made too weak.

To Make A Clock Strike Correctly.

—Pry the plates apart on the striking side, slip the pivots of the upper wheels out, and having disconnected them from the train, turn them partly around and put them back. If still incorrect, repeat the experiment. A few efforts at most will get them to work properly. The sound in cuckoo clocks is caused by a wire acting on a small bellows which is connected with two small pipes like organ pipes.