SULPHATE STAINS, TO REMOVE: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

SULTANA ROLL: See Ice Creams.

SUNBURN REMEDIES: See Cosmetics.

SUTURES OF CATGUT, THEIR PREPARATION: See Catgut.

SYNDETICON: See Adhesives.

SYRUPS

(See also Essences and Extracts.)

The syrups should either be made from the best granulated sugar, free from ultramarine, or else rock-candy syrup. If the former, pure distilled water should be used in making the syrup, as only in this manner can a syrup be obtained that will be free from impurities and odor. There are two methods by which syrup can be made, namely, by the cold process, or by boiling. The advantage of the former is its convenience; of the latter, that it has better keeping qualities. In the cold process, the sugar is either stirred up in the water until it is dissolved, or water is percolated or filtered through the sugar, thus forming a solution. In the hot process, the sugar is simply dissolved in the water by the aid of heat, stirring until solution is effected. The strength of the syrup for fountain use should be about 6 pounds in the gallon of finished syrup; it is best, however, to make the stock syrup heavier, as it will keep much better, using 15 pounds of granulated sugar, and 1 gallon of water. When wanted for use it can be diluted to the proper density with water. The syrups of the market are of this concentrated variety. Unless the apartments of the dispenser are larger than is usual, it is often best to buy the syrup, the difference in cost being so small that when the time is taken into consideration the profit is entirely lost. Foamed syrups should, however, never be purchased; they are either contaminated with foreign flavor, or are more prone to fermentation than plain syrup.

When a flavor is weak it may be fortified by adding a small amount of flavoring extract, but under no condition should a syrup flavored entirely with an essence be handed out to the consumer as a fruit syrup, for there is really no great resemblance between the two. Fruit syrups may be dispensed solid by adding the syrup to the soda water and stirring with a spoon. Use nothing but the best ingredients in making syrups.

A pure fruit syrup, filled into a glass bottle, porcelain jar, or block-tin can, which has been rendered sterile with boiling water, maintained at a cool temperature, will keep for any reasonable length of time. All danger of fracturing the glass, by pouring water into it, may be obviated by first wetting the interior of the bottle with cold water.

The fruits for syrups must not only be fully ripe, but they must be used immediately after gathering. The fruit must be freed from stems, seeds, etc., filled into lightly tied linen sacks, and thus subjected to pressure, to obtain their juices. Immediately after pressure the juice should be heated quickly to 167° F., and filtered through a felt bag. The filtrate should fall directly upon the sugar necessary to make it a syrup. The heating serves the purpose of coagulating the albuminous bodies present in the juices, and thus to purify the latter.

Syrups thus prepared have not only a most agreeable, fresh taste, but are very stable, remaining in a good condition for years.

Colors For Syrups:

Continue to heat, with constant stirring, until the mass has again become liquefied. Keep on a slow fire until the mass becomes very dark; then remove the kettle from the fire and pour in slowly 3 pints of boiling water. Set the kettle back on the fire and permit contents to boil for a short time, then remove, and cool. Add simple syrup to produce any required consistency.

Blue.—

Indigo carmine may usually be obtained commercially;

II.—Tincture of indigo also makes a harmless blue. {703}

Sap Blue.—

Pink.—

Mix. If the color is too high, dilute with distilled water until the required tint is obtained.

II.—Soak red-apple parings in California brandy. The addition of rose leaves makes a fine flavoring as well as coloring agent.

Red.—

Rub up the carmine and ammonia water and to the solution add the water under trituration. If, in standing, this shows a tendency to separate, a drop or two of water of ammonia will correct the trouble. This statement should be put on the label of the bottle as the volatile ammonia soon escapes even in glass-stoppered vials. Various shades of red may be obtained by using fruit juices, such as black cherry, raspberry, etc., and also the tinctures of sudbear, alkanet, red saunders, erythroxylon, etc.

Orange.—

Add the orlean tincture to the sandalwood gradually until the desired tint is obtained. A red color added to a yellow one gives an orange color.

SYRUP, TABLE: See Tables.

TABLES

Alcohol Dilution.

The following table gives the percentage, by weight, of alcohol of 95 per cent and of distilled water to make 1 liter (about 1 quart), or 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds), of alcohol of various dilutions.

A tablespoon, ¹/₂ ounce.

A dessertspoon, ¹/₄ ounce.

A teaspoon, ¹/₈ ounce, or 1 drachm.

A teacupful of sugar weighs ¹/₂ pound.

Three ta­ble­spoon­fuls weigh ¹/₄ pound.

Two teacupfuls (level) of granulated sugar weigh 1 pound.

Two teacupfuls soft butter (well packed) weigh 1 pound.

One and one-third pints of powdered sugar weigh 1 pound.

Two ta­ble­spoon­fuls of powdered sugar or flour weigh 1 pound.

Four teaspoonfuls are equal to 1 tablespoon.

Two and one-half teacupfuls (level) of the best brown sugar weigh 1 pound.

Two and three-fourths teacupfuls (level) of powdered sugar weigh 1 pound.

One ta­ble­spoon­ful (well heaped) of granulated or best brown sugar equals 1 ounce. {704}

One generous pint of liquid, or 1 pint finely chopped meat, packed solidly, weighs 1 pound.

One drop of extract to an ounce of syrup is equal to 2 drachms to a gallon.

Two drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 4 ¹/₂ drachms to a gallon.

Three drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 6 ¹/₂ drachms to a gallon.

Four drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 1 ounce and 1 drachm to a gallon.

Five drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 1 ounce and 3 ¹/₈ drachms to a gallon.

Six drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 1 ounce and 5 ¹/₂ drachms to a gallon.

Seven drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 2 ounces to the gallon.

Eight drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 2 ounces and 2 ¹/₂ drachms to a gallon.

Nine drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 2 ounces and 4 ¹/₂ drachms to a gallon.

Ten drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 2 ounces and 6 ³/₄ drachms to a gallon.

Twelve drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 3 ounces and 3 ¹/₄ drachms to a gallon.

Fourteen drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 4 ounces to a gallon.

Sixteen drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 4 ounces and 4 ¹/₈ drachms to a gallon.

Eighteen drops of extract to an ounce of syrup are equal to 5 ounces and 1 drachm to a gallon.

NOTE.—The estimate 450 drops to the ounce, while accurate and reliable enough in this particular relation, must not be relied upon for very exact purposes, in which, as has frequently been demonstrated, the drop varies within a very wide range, according to the nature of the liquid, its consistency, specific gravity, temperature; the size and shape of the aperture from which it is allowed to escape, etc.

Eight fluidrachms are equal to 1 fluidounce.

Sixteen fluidounces are equal to 1 pint.

Two pints are equal to 1 quart.

Four quarts are equal to 1 gallon.

One pint of distilled water weighs about 1 pound.

For ¹/₅₀ per cent, or 1 in 5,000 solution, use 1 ³/₄ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For ¹/₂₀ per cent, or 1 in 2,000 solution, use 4 ³/₈ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For ¹/₁₀ per cent, or 1 in 1,000 solution, use 8 ³/₄ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For ¹/₄ per cent, or 1 in 400 solution, use 21 ⁷/₈ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For ¹/₂ per cent, or 1 in 200 solution, use 43 ³/₄ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For 1 per cent, or 1 in 100 solution, use 87 ¹/₂ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For 2 per cent, or 1 in 50 solution, use 175 grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For 4 per cent, or 1 in 25 solution, use 350 grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For 5 per cent, or 1 in 20 solution, use 437 ¹/₂ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

For 10 per cent, or 1 in 10 solution, use 875 grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

To make smaller quantities of any solution, use less water and reduce the med­i­ca­ment in proportion to the amount of water employed; thus ¹/₂ imperial pint of a 1 per cent solution will require 43 ³/₄ grains of the med­i­ca­ment.

If marble dust be used, reckon at the rate of 18 ounces hot water for use.

1. The addition of pounds of sugar to 1 gallon of water; and the {705}

2. Amount of sugar in each gallon of syrup resulting therefrom:

TABLE-TOPS, ACID-PROOF: See Acid-Proofing.

TABLES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS: See Photography.

TAFFY: See Confectionery.

TALCUM POWDER: See Cosmetics.

TALLOW: See Fats.

TALMI GOLD: See Alloys.

TAMPRING: See Tampring, under Steel.

TAN REMEDY: See Cosmetics.

TANK:

TANNING: See Leather.

TAPS, TO REMOVE BROKEN.

First clean the hole by means of a small squirt gun filled with kerosene. All broken pieces of the tap can be removed with a pair of tweezers, which should be as large as possible. Then insert the tweezers between the hole and flutes of the tap. By slowly working back and forth and occasionally blowing out with kerosene, the broken piece is easily released.

TAR PAINTS: See Wood.

TAR-SPOTS ON WOODWORK: See Paint.

TAR-SULPHUR SOAP: See Soap.

TAR SYRUP: See Essences and Extracts.

TATTOO MARKS, REMOVAL OF.

Apply a highly concentrated tannin solution on the tattooed places and treat them with the tattooing needle as the tattooer does. Next vigorously rub the places with a lunar caustic stick and allow the silver nitrate to act for some time, until the tattooed portions have turned entirely black. Then take off by dabbing. At first a silver tannate forms on the upper layers of the skin, which dyes the tattooing black; with slight symptoms of inflammation a scurf ensues which comes off after 14 to 16 days, leaving behind a reddish scar. The latter assumes the natural color of the skin after some time. The process is said to have given good results.

TAWING: See Leather.

TEA EXTRACT: See Essences and Extracts.

TEETH, TO WHITEN DISCOLORED.

Moisten the corner of a linen handkerchief with hydrogen peroxide, and with it rub the teeth, repeating the rubbing occasionally. Use some exceedingly finely pulverized infusorial earth, or pumice ground to an impalpable powder, in connection with the hydrogen peroxide, and the job will be quicker than with the peroxide alone.

TEMPERING OF STEEL: See Steel.

TERRA COTTA SUBSTITUTE.

A substance, under this name, designed to take the place of terra cotta and plaster of Paris in the manufacture of small ornamental objects, consists of {706}

The albumen and alum are dissolved in the water and with the solution so obtained the other ingredients are made into a paste. This paste is molded at once in the usual way and when set the articles are exposed in an oven to a heat of 140° F.

TERRA COTTA CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

TEXTILE CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods and Household Formulas.

THERMOMETERS

Readings on one scale can be changed into another by the following formulas, in which t° indicates degrees of temperature:

THREAD:

See also Cordage.

For white thread: Irish moss, 2 pounds; tapioca, 1 ¹/₂ pounds; spermaceti, ³/₄ pound; stearine, 110 grams; borax, 95 grams; boil together for 20 minutes.

For black thread: Irish moss, 3 pounds; gum Senegal, 2 ¹/₂ pounds; ceresin, 1 pound; borax, 95 grams; logwood extract, 95 grams; blue vitriol, 30 grams; boil together for 20 minutes. Soak the Irish moss in each case overnight in 45 liters of water, then boil for 1 hour, strain and add the other ingredients to the resulting solution. It is of advantage to add the borax to the Irish moss before the boiling.

THROAT LOZENGES: See Confectionery.

THYMOL: See Antiseptics.

TICKS, CATTLE DIP FOR: See Insecticides.

TIERCES: See Disinfectants.

TILEMAKERS’ NOTES: See Ceramics.

TIN

Gutensohn’s process has two objects: To obtain tin and to render the iron fit for use. The tin is obtained by treating the tinned plate repeatedly with hydrochloric acid. The tin is then removed from the solution by means of the electric current. The tinned plate as the positive pole is placed in a tank made of some insulating material impervious to the action of acids, such as slate. A copper plate forms the cathode. The bichloride of tin solution, freed from acid, is put round the carbon cylinder in the Bunsen element. Another innovation in this process is that the tank with the tinned-plate clippings is itself turned into an electric battery with the aid of the tin. A still better source of electricity is, however, obtained during the treatment of the untinned iron which will be described presently. The final elimination of the tin takes place in the clay cup of the Bunsen elements. Besides the chloride of tin solution (free from acid), another tin solution, preferably chromate of tin, nitrate of tin, or sulphate of tin, according to the strength of the current desired, may be used. To render the iron of the tinned plate serviceable the acid is drawn off as long as the iron is covered with a thin layer of an alloy of iron and tin. The latter makes the iron unfit for use in rolling mills or for the precipitation of copper. Fresh hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid is therefore poured over the plate to remove the alloy, after the treatment with the bichloride of tin solution. This acid is also systematically used in different vats to the point of approximate saturation. This solution forms the most suitable source of electricity, a zinc-iron element being formed by means of a clay cell and a zinc cylinder. The electrical force developed serves to accelerate the solution in the next tank, which contains tinned plate, either fresh or treated with hydrochloric acid. Ferrous oxide, or spongy metallic iron if the current is very strong, is liberated in the iron battery. Both substances are easily oxidized, and form red oxide of iron when heated. The remaining solution can be crystallized by evaporation, so that ferrous sulphate (green vitriol) or ferric chloride can be obtained, or it can be treated to form red oxide of iron.