Brown.
—I.—The following recipe for browning is from the United States Ordnance Manual: Spirits of wine, 1 1/2 {683} ounces; tincture of iron, 1 1/2 ounces; corrosive sublimate, 1 1/2 ounces; sweet spirits of niter, 1 1/2 ounces; blue vitriol, 1 ounce; nitric acid, 3/4 ounce. Mix and dissolve in 1 quart of warm water and keep in a glass jar. Clean the barrel well with caustic soda water to remove grease or oil. Then clean the surface of all stains and marks with emery paper or cloth, so as to produce an even, bright surface for the acid to act upon, and one without finger marks. Stop the bore and vent with wooden plugs. Then apply the mixture to every part with a sponge or rag, and expose to the air for 24 hours, when the loose rust should be rubbed off with a steel scratch brush. Use the mixture and the scratch brush twice, and more if necessary, and finally wash in boiling water, dry quickly, and wipe with linseed oil or varnish with shellac.

II.—Apply four coats of the following solution, allowing each several hours to dry. Brush after each coat if necessary. After the last coat is dry, rub down hard.

Sulphate of copper 1 ounce
Sweet spirits of niter 1 ounce
Distilled water 1 pint
Niello.
—This is a brightly polished metal, which is provided with a black or blue-black foundation by heating, is covered with a design by the use of a suitable matrix and then treated with hydrochloric acid in such a manner that only the black ground is attacked, the metal underneath remaining untouched. Next, the acid is rinsed off and the reserve is removed with suitable solvents. The parts of the metal bared by the acid may also be provided with a galvanic coating of silver or other metal.

Another method is to plunge the articles for a few minutes into a solution of oxalic acid and to clean them by passing them through alcohol. In this way the polish can even be brought back without the use of rouge or diamantine.

Whitening Or Blanching.
—If dissatisfied with the color acquired in tempering, dip the article into an acid bath, which whitens it, after which the bluing operation is repeated. This method is of great service, but it is important to remember always thoroughly to wash after the use of acid and then allow the object to remain for a few minutes in alcohol. Sulphuric acid does not whiten well, often leaving dark shades on the surface. Hydrochloric acid gives better results. Small pieces of steel are also whitened with a piece of pith moistened with dilute sulphuric acid, else the fine steel work, such as a watch hand, is fixed with lacquer on a plate and whitened by means of pith and polishing rouge, or a small stiff brush is charged with the same material. It is then detached by heating and cleaned in hot alcohol.

Tempering Steel.

The best temperature at which to quench in the tempering of tool steel is the one just above the transformation point of the steel, and this temperature may be accurately determined in the following manner, without the use of a pyrometer. The pieces of steel are introduced successively at equal intervals of time into a muffle heated to a temperature a little above the transformation point of the steel. If, after a certain time, the pieces be taken out in the reverse order they will at first show progressively increasing degrees of brightness, these pieces being at the transformation point. When this point is passed the pieces again rapidly acquire a brightness superior to that of their neighbors, and should then be immediately quenched.

I.—Heat red hot and dip in an unguent made of mercury and the fat of bacon. This produces a remarkable degree of hardness and the steel preserves its tenacity and an elasticity which cannot be obtained by other means.

II.—Heat to the red white and thrust quickly into a stick of sealing wax. Leave it a second, and then change it to another place, and so continue until the metal is too cool to penetrate the wax. To pierce with drills hardened in this way, moisten them with essence of turpentine.

To Temper Small Coil Springs And Tools.
—To temper small coil springs in a furnace burning wood the springs are exposed to the heat of the flame and are quenched in a composition of the following preparation: To a barrel of fish oil, 10 quarts of rosin and 12 quarts of tallow are added. If the springs tempered in this mixture break, more tallow is added, but if the break indicates brittleness of the steel rather than excessive hardness, a ball of yellow beeswax about 6 inches in diameter is added. The springs are drawn to a reddish purple by being placed on a frame having horizontally radiating arms like a star which is mounted on the end of a vertical rod. The springs are laid on the star and are lowered into a pot of melted lead, being held there for such time as is required to draw to the desired color.

It is well known that the addition of {684} certain soluble substances powerfully affects the action of tempering water. This action is strengthened if the heat-conducting power of the water is raised by means of these substances; it is retarded if this power is reduced, or the boiling point substantially lowered. The substance most frequently used for the purpose of increasing the heat-conducting power of tempering water is common salt. This is dissolved in varying proportions of weight, a saturated solution being generally used as a quenching mixture. The use of this solution is always advisable when tools of complicated shape, for which a considerable degree of hardness is necessary, are to be tempered in large quantities or in frequent succession. In using these cooling fluids, care must be taken that a sufficient quantity is added to the water to prevent any great rise of temperature when the tempering process is protracted. For this reason the largest possible vessels should be used, wide and shallow, rather than narrow and deep, vessels being selected. Carbonate of soda and sal ammoniac do not increase the tempering action to the same extent as common salt, and are therefore not so frequently employed, though they form excellent additions to tempering water in certain cases. Tools of very complicated construction, such as fraises, where the danger of fracture of superficial parts has always to be kept in view, can with advantage be tempered in a solution of soda or sal ammoniac. Acids increase the action of tempering water considerably, and to a far greater extent than common salt. They are added in quantities up to 2 per cent, and frequently in combination with salts. Organic acids (e. g., acetic or citric) have a milder action than mineral acids (e. g., hydrochloric, nitric, or sulphuric). Acidulous water is employed in tempering tools for which the utmost degree of hardness is necessary, such as instruments for cutting exceptionally hard objects, or when a sufficiently hard surface has to be given to a kind of steel not capable of much hardening. Alcohol lowers the boiling point of water, and causes so vigorous an evaporation when the water comes in contact with the red-hot metal, that the tempering is greatly retarded (in proportion to the amount of alcohol in the mixture). Water containing a large quantity of alcohol will not temper. Soap and soap suds will not temper steel; this property is made use of in the rapid cooling of steel for which a great degree of hardness is not desirable. When certain parts of completely tempered steel have to be rendered soft, these parts are heated to a red heat and then cooled in soap suds. This is done with the tangs of files, knives, swords, saws, etc. Soluble organic substances retard the tempering process in proportion to the quantity used, and thus lessen the effect of pure water. Such substances (e. g., milk, sour beer, etc.) are employed only to a limited extent.

To Caseharden Locally.
—In casehardening certain articles it is sometimes necessary, or desirable, to leave spots or sections in the original soft uncarbonized condition while the remainder is carbonized and hardened. This may be effected by first covering the parts to be hardened with a protecting coat of japan, and allowing it to dry. Then put the piece in an electroplating bath and deposit a heavy coat of nickel over the parts not protected by the japan. The piece thus prepared may be treated in the usual manner in casehardening. The coat of nickel prevents the metal beneath being carbonized, so it does not harden when dipped in the bath.

A plating of copper answers the same purpose as nickel and is often used. A simpler plan, where the shape of the piece permits, is to protect it from the action of the carbonizing material with an iron pipe or plate closely fitted or luted with clay. Another scheme is to machine the parts wanted soft after carbonizing but before hardening. By this procedure the carbonized material is removed where the metal is desired soft, and when heated and dipped these parts do not harden.

To Harden A Hammer.
—To avoid the danger of “checking” a hammer at the eye, heat the hammer to a good uniform hardening heat and then dip the small end almost up to the eye and cool as quickly as possible by moving about in the hardening bath; then dip the large end. To harden a hammer successfully by this method one must work quickly and cool the end dipped first enough to harden before the heat is lost on the other end. Draw the temper from the heat left about the eye. The result is a hammer hard only where it should be and free from “checks.”
Hardening Steel Wire.
—Pass the steel wire through a lead bath heated to a temperature of 1,200° to 1,500° F. after it has previously been coated with a paste of chalk, so as to prevent the formation {685} of oxides. The wire is thus heated in a uniform manner and, according to whether it is desired hard or elastic, it is cooled in water or in oil.
Hardening Of Springs.
—A variety of steel must be chosen which is suitable for the production of springs, a very tough quality with about 0.8 per cent of carbon being probably the best. Any steel works of good reputation would no doubt recommend a certain kind of steel. In shaping a spring, forging and hammering should be avoided if possible. In forging, an uneven treatment can scarcely be avoided; one portion is worked more than the other, causing tensions which, especially in springs, must be guarded against. It is most advantageous if a material of the thickness and shape of the spring can be obtained, which, by bending and pressing through, is shaped into the desired spring. Since this also entails slight tension, a careful annealing is advisable, so as to prevent cracking or distorting in hardening. The annealing is best conducted with exclusion of the air, by placing the springs in a sheet-iron box provided with a cover, smearing all the joints well up with loam. The heating may be done in a muffled furnace; the box, with contents, is, not too slowly, heated to cherry red and then allowed to cool gradually, together with the stove. The springs must only be taken out when they have cooled off enough that they will give off no hissing sound when touched by water. In order to uniformly heat the springs for hardening, a muffle furnace is likewise employed, wherein they are heated to cherry-red heat. For cooling liquid, a mixture of oil, tallow, and petroleum is employed. A mass consisting of fish oil, tallow, and wax also renders good service, but one should see to it that there is a sufficient quantity of these cooling liquids, so that the springs may be moved about, same as when cooled in water, without causing an appreciable increase in the temperature of the liquid. In most cases too small a quantity of the liquid is responsible for the many failures in hardening. When the springs have cooled in the hardening liquid, they are taken out, dried off superficially, and the oil still adhering is burned off over a charcoal fire. This enables one to moderate the temper according to the duration of the burning off and to produce the desired elasticity. An even heating being of great importance in hardening springs, the electric current has of late been successfully employed for this purpose.
To Temper A Tap.
—After the tap has been cut and finished heat it in a pair of tongs to a blood-red heat over a charcoal fire or the blue flame of a Bunsen burner or blow pipe, turning it around so that one point does not get heated before another. Have ready a pail of clean, cold water, into which a handful of common salt has been put. Stir the water in the pail so that a whirlpool is set up. Then plunge the tap, point first and vertically, into the vortex to cool. The turning of the tap during heating, as well as the swirl of the quenching water, prevents distortion. In tempering, the temper of the tap requires to be drawn to a light straw color, and this may be done as follows: Get a piece of cast-iron tube about 3 inches in diameter and heat it to a dull-red heat for about 4 inches of its length. Then hold the tap, with the tongs, up the center of the tube, meanwhile turning the tap around until the straw color appears all over it. Then dip the tap in the water, when it will be found perfectly hard. The depth of the color, whether light or dark straw, must be determined by the nature of the cast steel being used, which can be gained only from experience of the steel.
Scissors Hardening.
—The united legs of the scissors are uniformly heated to a dark cherry red, extending from the point to the screw or rivet hole. This may be done in the naked fire, a feeble current of air being admitted until the steel commences to glow. Then the fire is left to itself and the scissor parts are drawn to and fro in the fire, until all the parts to be hardened show a uniform dark cherry red. The two legs are hardened together in water and then tempered purple red to violet.

The simultaneous heating, hardening, and tempering of the parts belonging together is necessary, so that the degree of heat is the same and the harder part does not cut the softer one.

In accordance with well-known rules, the immersion in the hardening bath should be done with the point first, slowly and vertically up to above the riveting hole.

Hardening Without Scaling.
—Articles made of tool steel and polished may be hardened without raising a scale, thereby destroying the polish, by the following method: Prepare equal parts in bulk of common salt and (fine) corn meal, well mixed. Dip the article to be hardened first into water, then into the mixture and place it carefully into the fire. When hot enough to melt the mixture, take from {686} the fire and dip or roll in the salt and meal, replace in the fire and bring to the required heat for hardening. Watch the piece closely and if any part of it shows signs of getting dry, sprinkle some of the mixture on it. The mixture, when exposed to heat, forms a flux over the surface of the steel which excludes the air and prevents oxidation, and when cooled in water or oil comes off easily, leaving the surface as smooth as before heating. Borax would possibly give the same result, but is sometimes difficult to remove when cold.
Hardening With Glycerine.
—I.—The glycerine employed must be of the density of 1.08 to 1.26 taken at the temperature of 302° F. Its weight must be equal to about 6 times the weight of the pieces to be tempered. For hard temper add to the glycerine 1/4 to 4 per cent of sulphate of potash or of manganese, and for soft temper 1 to 10 per cent of chloride of manganese, or 1 to 4 per cent of chloride of potassium. The temperature of the tempering bath is varied according to the results desired.

II.—Glycerine, 8,000 parts, by weight; cooking salt, 500 parts, by weight; sal ammoniac, 100 parts, by weight; concentrated hydrochloric acid, 50 parts; and water, 10,000 parts, by weight. Into this liquid the steel, heated, for example, to a cherry red, is dipped. A reheating of the steel is not necessary.

To Remove Burnt Oil From Hardened Steel.
—To remove excess oil from parts that have been hardened in oil, place the articles in a small tank of gasoline, which, when exposed to the air, will dry off immediately, allowing the part to be polished and tempered without the confusing and unsightly marks of burnt oil.

Various Recipes:

To Put An Edge On Steel Tools.
—Aluminum will put an edge on fine cutting instruments such as surgical knives, razors, etc. It acts exactly like a razor-hone of the finest quality. When steel is rubbed on the aluminum, as, for instance, in honing a knife blade, the metal disintegrates, forming an infinitely minute powder of a greasy unctuous quality that clings to steel with great tenacity and thus assists in cutting away the surface of the harder metal. So fine is the edge produced that it can in no wise be made finer by the strop, which used in the ordinary way merely tends to round the edge.
To Restore Burnt Steel.
—To restore burnt cast steel heat the piece to a red heat and sprinkle over it a mixture of 8 parts red chromate of potassium; 4 parts saltpeter; 1/8 part aloes; 1/8 part gum arabic; and 1/4 part rosin.
To Remove Strains In Metal By Heating.
—In making springs of piano wire, or, in fact, any wire, if the metal is heated to a moderate degree the spring will be improved. Piano or any steel wire should be heated to a blue, brass wire to a degree sufficient to cause tallow to smoke. Heating makes the metal homogeneous; before heating, it is full of strains.

If a piece of metal of any kind is straightened cold and then put into a lathe and a chip turned off, it will be far from true. Before turning, it was held true by the strain of the particles on the outside, they having changed position, while the particles near the axis are only sprung. The outside particles being removed by the lathe tool, the sprung particles at the center return to their old positions. If, after straightening, the metal is heated to a temperature of 400° F., the particles settle together and the strains are removed.

This is the case in the manufacture of saws. The saw is first hardened and tempered and then straightened on an anvil by means of a hammer. After it is hammered true, it is ground and polished a little, then blued to stiffen it and then is subjected to the grinding process. Before bluing, the metal is full of strains; these are entirely removed by the heat required to produce the blue color. Often a piano-wire spring will not stand long wear if used without heating, while if heated it will last for years.

To Render Fine Cracks In Tools Visible.
—It is often of importance to recognize small cracks which appear in the metal of the tools. For this purpose it is recommended to moisten the fissured surface with petroleum; next rub and dry with a rag and rub again, but this time with chalk. The petroleum which has entered the cracks soon comes out again and the trace is plainly shown by the chalk.
To Utilize Drill Chips.
—There is one modern machining process that produces a shaving that has more value than that of mere scrap, and that is drilling rifle barrels with the oil-tube drill. The cutting edge of this drill is broken up into steps and the chips produced are literally shavings, being long hair-like threads of steel. These shavings are considerably used in woodworking factories for smoothing purposes. {687}
To Remove Fragments Of Steel From Other Metals.
—The removal of broken spiral drills and taps is an operation which even the most skillful machinist has to perform at times. A practical process for removing such broken steel pieces consists in preparing in a suitable kettle (not iron) a solution of 1 part, by weight, of commercial alum in 4 to 5 parts, by weight, of water and boiling the object in this solution until the piece which is stuck works itself out. Care must be taken to place the piece in such a position that the evolving gas bubbles may rise and not adhere to the steel to protect it from the action of the alum solution.
Testing Steel.
—A bar of the steel to be tested is provided with about nine notches running around it in distances of about 5/8 of an inch. Next, the foremost notched piece is heated in a forge in such a manner that the remaining portion of the bar is heated less by the fire proper than by the transmitted heat. When the foremost piece is heated to burning, i. e., to combustion, and the color of the succeeding pieces gradually passes to dark-brownish redness, the whole rod is hardened. A test with the file will now show that the foremost burned piece possesses the greatest hardness, that several softer pieces will follow, and that again a piece ordinarily situated in the second third, whose temperature was the right one for hardening, is almost as hard as the first one. If the different pieces are knocked off, the fracture of the piece hardened at the correct temperature exhibits the finest grain. This will give one an idea of the temperature to be employed for hardening the steel in question and its behavior in general. Very hard steel will readily crack in this process.
Welding Compound.
—Boracic acid, 41 1/2 parts; common salt 35 parts; ferrocyanide of potassium, 20 parts; rosin, 7 1/2 parts; carbonate of sodium, 4 parts. Heat the pieces to be welded to a light-red heat and apply the compound; then heat to a strong yellow heat and the welding may be accomplished in the usual manner.

The precaution should be observed, the same as with any of the cyanides, to avoid breathing the poisonous fumes.

Softening Steel.
—Heat the steel to a brown red and plunge into soft water, river water being the best. Care should be taken, however, not to heat over brown red, otherwise it will be hard when immersed. The steel will be soft enough to be cut with ease if it is plunged in the water as soon as it turns red.
Draw-tempering Cast Steel.
—First heat the steel lightly by means of charcoal until of a cherry-red shade, whereupon it is withdrawn to be put quickly into ashes or dry charcoal dust until completely cooled. The steel may also be heated in the forge to a red cherry color, then hammered until it turns blue and then plunged into water.
Drilling Hard Steel.
—To accomplish the object quickly, a drill of cast steel should be made, the point gradually heated to the red, the scales taken off, and the extremity of the point immersed at once in quicksilver; then the whole quenched in cold water. Thus prepared, the drill is equal to any emergency; it will bore through the hardest pieces. The quantity of quicksilver needed is trifling.
Engraving Or Etching On Steel.
—Dissolve in 150 parts of vinegar, sulphate of copper, 30 parts; alum, 8 parts; kitchen salt, 11 parts. Add a few drops of nitric acid. According to whether this liquid is allowed to act a longer or shorter time, the steel may be engraved upon deeply or the surface may be given a very ornamental, frosted appearance.
To Distinguish Steel From Iron.
—Take a very clean file and file over the flame of an alcohol lamp. If the filed piece is made of steel, little burning and crackling sparks will be seen. If it consists of iron, the sparks will not crackle.

STEREOCHROMY.

Stereochromatic colors can be bought ground in a thickly liquid water-glass solution. They are only diluted with water-glass solution before application on the walls. The two solutions are generally slightly dissimilar in their composition, the former containing less silicic acid, but more alkali, than the latter, which is necessary for the better preservation of the paint. Suitable pigments are zinc white, ocher with its different shades of light yellow, red, and dark brown, black consisting of a mixture of manganese and lampblack, etc., etc. White lead cannot be used, as it coagulates with the water glass, nor vermilion, because it fades greatly under the action of the light. The plastering to be coated must be porous, not fresh, but somewhat hardened. Otherwise the caustic lime of the plaster will quickly decompose the water glass. This circumstance may account for the unsatisfactory results which have frequently been obtained with water-glass coatings. Before applying the paint the wall should first be impregnated with a water-glass solution. The colors may be kept on hand ground, but must be protected from contact with the air. If air is admitted a partial separation of silica in the form of a jelly takes place. Only pure potash water glass, or, at least, such as only contains little soda, should be used, as soda will cause efflorescence.

STONE, ARTIFICIAL.

The following is a process of manufacture in which the alkaline silicates prepared industrially are employed.

The function of the alkaline silicates, or soluble glass, as constituents of artificial stone, is to act as a cement, forming with the alkaline earths, alumina, and oxide of lead, insoluble silicates, which weld together the materials (quartz sand, pebbles, granite, fluorspar, and the waste of clay bricks). The mass may be colored black by the addition of a quantity of charcoal or graphite to the extent of 10 per cent at the maximum, binoxide of manganese, or ocher; red, by 6 per cent of colcothar; brick red, by 4 to 7 per cent of cinnabar; orange, by 6 to 8 per cent of red lead; yellow, by 6 per cent of yellow ocher, or 5 per cent of chrome yellow; green, by 8 per cent of chrome green; blue, by 6 to 10 per cent of Neuwied blue, Bremen blue, Cassel blue, or Napoleon blue; and white, by 20 per cent, at the maximum, of zinc white.

Chrome green and zinc oxide produce an imitation of malachite. An imitation of lapis lazuli is obtained by the simultaneous employment of Cassel blue and pyrites in grains. The metallic oxides yield the corresponding silicates, and zinc oxide, mixed with cleansed chalk, yields a brilliant marble. The ingredients are mixed in a kind of mechanical kneading trough, furnished with stirrers, in variable proportions, according to the percentage of the solution of alkaline silicate. The whole is afterwards molded or compressed by the ordinary processes.

The imitation of granite is obtained by mixing lime, 100 parts; sodium silicate (42° Bé.), 35 parts; fine quartz sand, 120 to 180 parts; and coarse sand, 180 to 250 parts.

Artificial basalt may be prepared by adding potassium sulphite and lead acetate, or equal parts of antimony ore and iron filings.

To obtain artificial marble, 100 pounds of marble dust or levigated chalk are mixed with 20 parts of ground glass and 8 parts of fine lime and sodium silicate. The coloring matter is mixed in proportion depending on the effect to be produced.

A fine product for molding is obtained by mixing alkaline silicate, 100 parts; washed chalk, 100 parts; slaked lime, 40 parts; quick lime, 40 parts, fine quartz sand, 200 parts; pounded glass, 80 parts; infusorial earths, 80 parts; fluorspar, 150 parts. On hardening, there is much contraction.

Other kinds of artificial stone are prepared by mixing hydraulic lime or cement, 50 parts; sand, 200 parts; sodium silicate, in dry powder, 50 parts; the whole is moistened with 10 per cent of water and molded.

A hydraulic cement may be employed, to which an alkaline silicate is added. The stone or object molded ought to be covered with a layer of fluosilicate. {689}

A weather-proof water-resisting stone is manufactured from sea mud, to which 5 per cent of calcic hydrate is added. The mass is then dried, lixiviated, and dried once more at 212° F., whereupon the stones are burned. By an admixture of crystallized iron sulphate the firmness of these stones is still increased.

Sand-lime Brick.

—In a French patent for making bricks from pitch and coal tar, powdered coke and sea sand are gently heated in a suitable vessel, and 20 per cent of pitch and 10 per cent of coal tar added, with stirring. The pasty mass obtained is then molded under pressure. The product obtained may be employed alone, or together with a framework of iron, or with hydraulic lime or cement.

According to a French patent for veining marble, etc., in one or more colors, coloring matters of all kinds are mixed with a sticky liquid, which is then spread in a very thin layer on the surface of another immiscible and heavier liquid. By agitating the surface, colored veins, etc., are obtained, which are then transferred to the object to be decorated (which may be of most varied kind) by applying it to the surface of the heavy liquid. A suitable composition with which the colors may be mixed consists of: Oil of turpentine, 100 parts; colophony, 10 parts; linseed oil, 10 parts; siccatif soleil, 5 parts. The heavy liquid may be water, mercury, etc.; and any colors, organic or mineral, may be used.

Concrete.

Concrete is the name applied to an artificial combination of various mineral substances which under chemical action become incorporated into a solid mass. There are one or two compositions of comparatively trifling importance which receive the same name, though differing fundamentally from true concrete, their solidification being independent of chemical influence. These compositions only call for passing mention; they are: Tar concrete, made of broken stones (macadam) and tar; iron concrete, composed of iron turnings, asphalt, bitumen, and pitch; and lead concrete, consisting of broken bricks set in molten lead. The last two varieties, with rare exceptions, are only used in connection with military engineering, such as for fortifications.

Concrete proper consists essentially of two groups or classes of ingredients. The first, termed the aggregate, is a heterogeneous mass, in itself inactive, of mineral material, such as shingle, broken stone, broken brick, gravel, and sand. These are the substances most commonly in evidence, but other ingredients are also occasionally employed, such as slag from iron furnaces. Burnt clay, in any form, and earthenware, make admirable material for incorporation. The second class constitutes the active agency which produces adhesion and solidification. It is termed the matrix, and consists of hydraulic lime or cement, combined with water.

One of the essential features in good concrete is cleanliness and an entire absence of dirt, dust, greasy matter, and impurities of any description. The material will preferably be sharp and angular, with a rough, porous surface, to which the matrix will more readily adhere than to smooth, vitreous substances. The specific gravity of the aggregate will depend upon the purpose for which the concrete is to be used. For beams and lintels, a light aggregate, such as coke breeze from gasworks, is permissible, especially when the work is designed to receive nails. On the other hand, for retaining walls, the heaviest possible aggregate is desirable on the ground of stability.

The aggregate by no means should be uniform in size. Fragments of different dimensions are most essential, so that the smaller material may fill up the interstices of the larger. It is not infrequently stipulated by engineers that no individual fragment shall be more than 4 inches across, and the material is often specified to pass through a ring 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. The absolute limits to size for the aggregate, however, are determinable by a number of considerations, not the least important of which is the magnitude and bulk of the work in which it is to be employed. The particles of sand should also be of varying degrees of coarseness. A fine, dust-like sand is objectionable; its minute subdivision prevents complete contact with the cement on all its faces. Another desideratum is that the particles should not be too spherical, a condition brought about by continued attrition. Hence, pit sand is better in many cases than river sand or shore sand.

The matrix is almost universally Portland cement. It should not be used in too hot a condition, to which end it is usually spread over a wooden floor to a depth of a few inches, for a few days prior to use. By this means, the aluminate of lime becomes partially hydrated, and its activity is thereby modified. {690} Roman cement and hydraulic lime may also be used as matrices.

Portland cement will take a larger proportion of sand than either Roman cement or hydraulic lime; but with the larger ratios of sand, its tenacity is, of course, correspondingly reduced. One part of cement to 4 parts of sand should therefore be looked upon as the upper limit, while for the strongest mortar the proportion need hardly exceed 1 part of cement to 1 1/2 or 2 parts of sand. In the ensuing calculations there is assumed a ratio of 1 to 3. For impermeability, the proportion of 1 to 2 should be observed, and for Roman cement this proportion should never be exceeded. The ratio will even advantageously be limited to 2 to 3. For hydraulic lime equal parts of sand and cement are suitable, though 2 parts of sand to 1 part of cement may be used.

The quantity of mortar required in reference to the aggregate is based on the vacuities in the latter. For any particular aggregate the amount of empty space may be determined by filling a tank of known volume with the minerals and then adding sufficient water to bring to a level surface. The volume of water added (provided, of course, the aggregate be impervious or previously saturated) gives the net volume of mortar required. To this it is necessary to make some addition (say 10 per cent of the whole), in order to insure the thorough flushing of every part of the work.

Assuming that the proportion of interstices is 30 per cent and adding 10 for the reason just stated, we derive 40 parts as the quantity of mortar to 100 − 10 = 90 parts of the aggregate. An allowance of 1/4 volume for shrinkage brings the volume of the dry materials (sand and cement) of the mortar to 40 + 40/3 = 53 1/3 parts, which, divided in the ratio of 1 to 3, yields:

Cement (53 1/3)/4 =  13 1/3 parts
Sand, 3/4 x 53 1/3 =  40 parts
Aggregate  90 parts
Total 143 1/3 parts

As the resultant concrete is 100 parts, the total shrinkage is 30 per cent. Expressed in terms of the cement, the concrete would have a composition of 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 7 parts gravel and broken stone, and it would form, approximately, what is commonly known as 7 to 1 concrete.

There are other ratios depending on the proportion of sand. Thus we have:

Cement Sand Aggregate
1 1 1/2 4 1/3
1 2 5
1 2 1/2 6
1 3 7
1 3 1/2 7 1/2
1 4 8 1/4

The cost of concrete may be materially reduced without affecting the strength or efficacy of the work, by a plentiful use of stone “plums” or “burrs.” These are bedded in the fluid concrete during its deposition in situ, but care must be taken to see that they are thoroughly surrounded by mortar and not in contact with each other. Furthermore, if they are of a porous nature, they should be well wetted before use.

The mixing of concrete is important. If done by hand, the materials forming the aggregate will be laid out on a platform and covered by the cement in a thin layer. The whole should be turned over thrice in the dry state, and as many times wet, before depositing, in order to bring about thorough and complete amalgamation. Once mixed, the concrete is to be deposited immediately and allowed to remain undisturbed until the action of setting is finished. Deposition should be effected, wherever possible, without tipping from a height of more than about 6 feet, as in greater falls there is a likelihood of the heavier portions of the aggregate separating from the lighter. In extensive undertakings, concrete is more economically mixed by mechanical appliances.

The water used for mixing may be either salt or fresh, so far as the strength of the concrete is concerned. For surface work above the ground level, salinity in any of the ingredients is objectionable, since it tends to produce efflorescence—an unsightly, floury deposit, difficult to get rid of. The quantity of water required cannot be stated with exactitude; it will depend upon the proportion of the aggregate and its porosity. It is best determined by experiment in each particular case. Without being profuse enough to “drown” the concrete, it should be plentiful enough to act as an efficient intermediary between every particle of the aggregate and every particle of the matrix. Insufficient moisture is, in fact, as deleterious as an excess.

Voids.
—The strength of concrete depends greatly upon its density, and this is secured by using coarse material which contains the smallest amount of voids or empty spaces. Different kinds of sand, {691} gravel, and stone vary greatly in the amount of voids they contain, and by judiciously mixing coarse and fine material the voids may be much reduced and the density increased. The density and percentage of voids in concrete material may be determined by filling a box of 1 cubic foot capacity and weighing it. One cubic foot of solid quartz or limestone, entirely free from voids, would weigh 165 pounds, and the amount by which a cubic foot of any loose material falls short of this weight represents the proportion of voids contained in it. For example, if a cubic foot of sand weighs 115 1/2 pounds, the voids would be 49 1/2-165ths of the total volume, or 30 per cent.

The following table gives the per cent of voids and weight per cubic foot of some common concrete materials:

Per Cent Voids Wt. per Cu. Ft.
Sandusky Bay sand 32.3 111.7 pounds
Same through 20-mesh screen 38.5 101.5 pounds
Gravel, 1/8 to 1/4 inch 42.4  95.0 pounds
Broken limestone, egg-size 47.0  87.4 pounds
Limestone screenings, dust to 1/2 inch 26.0 122.2 pounds

It will be noted that screening the sand through a 20-mesh sieve, and thus taking out the coarse grains, considerably increased the voids and reduced the weight; thus decidedly injuring the sand for making concrete.

The following figures show how weight can be increased and voids reduced by mixing fine and coarse material:

Per Cent Voids Wt. per Cu. Ft.
Pebbles, about 1 inch 38.7 101.2 pounds
Sand, 30 to 40 mesh 35.9 105.8 pounds
Pebbles plus 38.7 per cent sand, by vol. 19.2 133.5 pounds

Experiments have shown that the strength of concrete increases greatly with its density; in fact, a slight increase in weight per cubic foot adds very decidedly to the strength.

The gain in strength obtained by adding coarse material to mixtures of cement and sand is shown in the following table of results of experiments made in Germany by R. Dykerhoff. The blocks tested were 2 1/2-inch cubes, 1 day in air and 27 days in water.

Pro­por­tions by Meas­ure. Per Cent. Ce­ment. Com­pres­sion Strength
Cement. Sand. Gravel. By Volume. Lbs. per Sq. In.
1 2 33.0 2,125
1 2 5 12.5 2,387
1 3 25.0 1,383
1 3 6 1/2  9.5 1,515
1 4 20.0 1,053
1 4 8 1/2  7.4 1,204

These figures show how greatly the strength is improved by adding coarse material, even though the proportion of cement is thereby reduced. A mixture of 1 to 12 1/2 of properly proportioned sand and gravel is, in fact, stronger than 1 to 4, and nearly as strong as 1 to 3, of cement and sand only.

In selecting materials for concrete, those should be chosen which give the greatest density. If it is practicable to mix two materials, as sand and gravel, the proportion which gives the greatest density should be determined by experiment, and rigidly adhered to in making concrete, whatever proportion of cement it is decided to use. Well-proportioned dry sand and gravel or sand and broken stone, well shaken down, should weigh at least 125 pounds per cubic foot. Limestone screenings, owing to minute pores in the stone itself, are somewhat lighter, though giving equally strong concrete. They should weigh at least 120 pounds per cubic foot. If the weight is less, there is probably too much fine dust in the mixture.

The density and strength of concrete are also greatly improved by use of a liberal amount of water. Enough water must be used to make the concrete thoroughly soft and plastic, so as to quake strongly when rammed. If mixed too dry it will never harden properly, and will be light, porous, and crumbling.

Thorough mixing of concrete materials is essential, to increase the density and give the cement used a chance to produce its full strength. The cement, sand, and gravel should be intimately mixed dry, then the water added and the mixing continued. If stone or coarse gravel is added, this should be well wetted and thoroughly mixed with the mortar.