Eau de Lais.—

Eau de Merveilleuse.—

Edelweiss.—

Honey Water.—

Bruise the cloves, nutmegs, coriander seed, and benjamin, cut the vanilloes in pieces, and put all into a glass alembic with 1 gallon of clean rectified spirit, and, after digesting 48 hours, draw off the spirit by distillation. To 1 gallon of the distilled spirit add

Grind the musk and ambergris in a glass mortar, and afterwards put all together into a digesting vessel, and let them circulate 3 days and 3 nights in a gentle heat; then let all cool. Filter, and keep the water in bottles well stoppered.

Macerate the musk and sandalwood in the spirit 7 days, filter, dissolve the oils in the filtrate, add the other ingredients, shake well, and do so occasionally, keeping as long as possible before filtering.

Lilac Water.—

Orange Flower Water.—

Triturate the essence with the magnesium carbonate, add the water, and filter.

To Clarify Turbid Orange Flower Water.—Shake 1 quart of it with ¹/₄ pound of sand which has previously been boiled out with hydrochloric acid, washed with water, and dried at red heat. This process doubtless would prove valuable for many other purposes.

Violet Waters.—

Add the spirit of ionone to the alcohol and then add the waters. Let stand and filter.

Perfumed Pastilles.

These scent tablets consist of a compressed mixture of rice starch, magnesium carbonate, and powdered orris root, saturated with heliotrope, violet, or lilac perfume.

Violet.—

Heliotrope.—

Lilac.—

Perfumes For Hair Oils.—

Soap Perfumes.—

See also Soap.

• 1 ¹/₂ drachms of each:

  • II.—Oil of caraway
  • Oil of clove
  • Oil of white thyme
  • Oil of cassia
  • Oil of orange leaf (neroli petit grain)
  • Oil of lavender

Add to 5 pounds of soap stock.

PERFUMES (FUMIGANTS): See Fumigants.

PERSPIRATION REMEDY: See Cosmetics.

PETROLEUM

(See also Oils.)

In order to overcome these objections various expedients have been resorted to, all of which have for their object the dilution or emulsification of the kerosene. Probably the best known and most generally employed method for accomplishing this result is that which is based upon the use of soap as an emulsifying agent. The formula which is used almost universally for making the kerosene soap emulsion is as follows:

The soap is dissolved in the water with the aid of heat, and while this solution is still hot the kerosene is added and the whole agitated vigorously. The smooth white mixture which is obtained in this way is diluted before use with sufficient water to make a total volume of 20 gallons, and is usually applied to the skin of animals or to trees or other plants by means of a spray pump. This method of application is used because the diluted emulsion separates quite rapidly, and some mechanical device, such as a self-mixing spray pump, is required to keep the oil in suspension.

It will be readily understood that this emulsion would not be well adapted either for use as a dip or for application by hand, for in the one case the oil, which rapidly rises to the surface, would adhere to the animals when they emerged from the dipping tank and the irritating effect would be scarcely less than that produced by the plain oil, and in the second case the same separation of the kerosene would take place and necessarily result in an uneven distribution of the oil on the bodies of the animals which were being treated.

Within recent years it has been found that a certain crude petroleum from the Beaumont oil fields is quite effective for destroying the Texas fever cattle ticks. This crude petroleum contains from 40 to 50 per cent of oils boiling below 300° C. (572° F.), and from 1 to 1.5 per cent of sulphur. After a number of trials of different combinations of crude oil, soap, and water, the following formula was decided upon as the one best suited to the uses in view:

Dissolve the soap in the water with the aid of heat; to this solution add the crude petroleum, mix with a spray pump or shake vigorously, and dilute with the desired amount of water. Soft water should, of course, be used. Various forms of hard and soft soaps have been tried, but soap with an amount of free alkali equivalent to 0.9 per cent of sodium hydroxide gives the best emulsion. All the ordinary laundry soaps are quite satisfactory, but toilet soaps in the main are not suitable.

An emulsion of crude petroleum made according to this modified formula remains fluid and can be easily poured; it will stand indefinitely without any tendency toward a separation of the oil and water and can be diluted in any proportion with cold soft water. After sufficient dilution to produce a 10 per cent emulsion, a number of hours are required for all the oil to rise to the surface, but if the mixture is agitated occasionally, no separation takes place. After long standing the oil separates in the form of a creamlike layer which is easily mixed with the water again by stirring. It is therefore evident that for producing an emulsion which will hold the oil in suspension after dilution, the modified formula meets the desired requirements.

In preparing this emulsion for use in the field, a large spray pump capable of mixing 25 gallons may be used with perfect success.

In using the formula herewith given, it should be borne in mind that it is recommended especially for the crude {522} petroleum obtained from the Beaumont oil fields, the composition of which has already been given. As crude petroleums from different sources vary greatly in their composition, it is impracticable to give a formula that can be used with all crude oils. Nevertheless, crude petroleum from other sources than the Beaumont wells may be emulsified by modifying the formula given above. In order to determine what modification of this formula is necessary for the emulsification of a given oil, the following method may be used:

Dissolve ¹/₂ pound of soap in ¹/₂ gallon of hot water; to 1 measure of this soap solution add 4 measures of the crude petroleum to be tested and shake well in a stoppered bottle or flask for several minutes.

If, after dilution, there is a separation of a layer of pure oil within half an hour the emulsion is imperfect, and a modification of the formula will be required. To accomplish this the proportion of oil should be varied until a good result is obtained.

To the three elements constituting the mixture it is useful to add per 1,000 parts by weight of the briquettes to be obtained, 120 parts of sawdust and 120 parts of clay or sand, to render the briquettes more solid.

Experiments in the heating of these briquettes have demonstrated that they will furnish three times as much heat as briquettes of ordinary charcoal, without leaving any residue.

PETROLEUM EMULSION: See Insecticides.

PETROLEUM JELLIES: See Lubricants.

PETROLEUM SOAP: See Soap.

PEWTER: See Alloys.

PEWTER, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

PEWTER, AGEING:

If it is desired to impart to modern articles of pewter the appearance of antique objects, plunge the pieces for several moments into a solution of alum to which several drops of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid have been added.

PICTURES, GLOW.

These can be easily produced by drawing the outlines of a picture, writing, etc., on a piece of white paper with a solution of 40 parts of saltpeter and 20 parts of gum arabic in 40 parts of warm water, using a writing pen for this purpose. All the lines must connect and one of them {523} must run to the edge of the paper, where it should be marked with a fine lead-pencil line. When a burning match is held to this spot, the line immediately glows on, spreading over the whole design, and the design formerly invisible finally appears entirely singed. This little trick is not dangerous.

PHOSPHATE SUBSTITUTE.

An artificial phosphate is thus prepared: Melt in an oven a mixture of 100 parts of phosphorite, ground coarsely, 70 parts of acid sulphate of soda; 20 parts of carbonate of lime; 22 parts of sand, and 607 parts of charcoal. Run the molten matter into a receiver filled with water; on cooling it will become granular. Rake out the granular mass from the water, and after drying, grind to a fine powder. The phosphate can be kept for a long time without losing its quality, for it is neither caustic nor hygroscopic. Wagner has, in collaboration with Dorsch, conducted fertilizing experiments for determining its value, as compared with superphosphate or with Thomas slag. The phosphate decomposes more rapidly in the soil than Thomas slag, and so far as the experiments have gone, it appears that the phosphoric acid of the new phosphate exercises almost as rapid an action as the phosphoric acid of the superphosphate soluble in water.

PHOSPHORESCENT MASS.

See also Luminous Bodies and Paints.

Mix 2 parts of dehydrated sodium carbonate, 0.5 parts of sodium chloride, and 0.2 parts of manganic sulphate with 100 parts of strontium carbonate and 30 parts of sulphur and heat 3 hours to a white heat with exclusion of air.

PHOSPHOR BRONZE: See Alloys, under Bronzes.

PHOSPHORUS SUBSTITUTE.

G. Graveri recommends persulfocyanic acid = H₂(CN)₂S₃ as meeting all the requirements of phosphorus on matches. It resists shock and friction, it is readily friable, and will mix with other substances; moreover, it is non-poisonous and cheaper than phosphorus.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Developers And Developing Of Plates.

No light is perfectly safe or non-actinic, even that coming through a combined ruby and orange window or lamp. Therefore use great care in developing.

A light may be tested this way: Place a dry plate in the plate holder in total darkness, draw the slide sufficiently to expose one-half of the plate, and allow the light from the window or lamp, 12 to 18 inches distant, to fall on this exposed half for 3 or 4 minutes. Then develop the plate the usual length of time in total darkness. If the light is safe, there will be no darkening of the exposed part. If not safe, the remedy is obvious.

The developing room must be a perfectly dark room, save for the light from a ruby- or orange-colored window (or combination of these two colors). Have plenty of pure running water and good ventilation.

Plates should always be kept in a dry room. The dark room is seldom a safe place for storage, because it is apt to be damp.

Various developing agents give different results. Pyrogallic acid in combination with carbonate of sodium or carbonate of potassium gives strong, vigorous negatives. Eikonogen and metol yield soft, delicate negatives. Hydrochinon added to eikonogen or metol produces more contrast or greater strength.

It is essential to have a bottle of bromide of potassium solution, 10 per cent, in the dark room. (One ounce of bromide of potassium, water to 10 ounces.) Overtimed plates may be much improved by adding a few drops of bromide solution to the developer as soon as the overtimed condition is apparent (a plate is overtimed when the image appears almost immediately, and then blackens all over).

Undertimed plates should be taken out of the developer and placed in a tray of water where no light can reach them. If the detail in the shadows begins to appear after half an hour or so, the plate can be replaced in the developer and development brought to a finish.

Quick development, with strong solutions, means a lack of gradation or half-tones.

A developer too warm or containing too much alkali (carbonate of sodium or potassium) will yield flat, foggy negatives.

A developer too cold is retarded in its action, and causes thin negatives.

Uniform temperature is necessary for uniform results.

If development is continued too long, the negative will be too dense.

In warm weather, the developer should be diluted; in cold weather, it should be stronger. {524}

The negative should not be exposed to white light until fixation is complete.

The negative should be left fully 5 minutes longer in the fixing bath than is necessary to dissolve out the white bromide of silver.

In hot weather a chrome alum fixing bath should be used to prevent frilling.

Always use a fresh hypo or fixing bath. Hypo is cheap.

Plates and plate holders must be kept free from dust, or pinholes will result.

After the negative is fixed, an hour’s washing is none too much.

The plate should be dried quickly in warm weather else the film will become dense and coarse-grained.

Do not expect clean, faultless negatives to come out of dirty developing and fixing solutions and trays.

Pyro And Soda Developer.—

More water may be used in warm weather and less in cool weather.

• If solution No. I is made by hydrometer test, use equal parts of the following:

  • Sulphite soda testing, 80°.
  • Carbonate soda testing, 40°.

One ounce of this mixture will be equivalent to 1 ounce of solution No. I.

Pyro And Potassium Developer.—

When the plate is fully developed, if the lights are too thin, use less water in the developer; if too dense, use more water.

This developer may be used repeatedly by adding a little fresh developer as required.

Keep the used developer in a separate bottle.

Use repeatedly, adding fresh as required.

Mix Nos. I and II, equal parts, for use.

Eikonogen Hydrochinon Developer.—

By hydrometer:

Hydrochinon Developer.—

To develop:

Take of I, 4 ounces; II, ¹/₂ ounce. After use pour into a separate bottle. This can be used repeatedly, and with uniformity of results, by the addition of 1 drachm of I and 10 drops of II to every 8 ounces of old developer.

In using this developer it is important to notice the temperature of the room, as a slight variation in this respect causes a very marked difference in the time it takes to develop, much more so than with pyro. The temperature of room should be from 70° to 75° F.

Metol Developer.—

Take equal parts of I and II and 6 parts of water. If more contrast is needed, take equal parts of I and II and 3 parts of water, with 5 drops to the ounce of a ¹/₁₀ solution of bromide of potassium.

Metol And Hydrochinon Developer.—

Dissolve 1 ounce citric acid in 5 ounces distilled water, add liquor ammonia until a slip of litmus paper just loses the red color, then add water to make the whole measure 8 ounces.

Add 1 ounce of II to 2 of I, and ¹/₂ ounce of water, and 3 to 6 drops of 10 per cent solution bromide potassium.

To develop, first rinse developing dish with water, lay film or plate down, and flow with sufficient developer to well cover. Careful attention must be given to its action, and when detail is just showing in the face, or half-tone lights in a view, pour off developer, and well wash the film before placing in the fixing bath.

The figures in parenthesis are for crystals. It will be seen that in every case {526} the weight of sulphite required in crystals is double that of dry sulphite, while the weight of carbonate crystals is 2 ¹/₂ times as much as dry carbonate.

For tank development Dr. John M. Nicol recommends the standard formula diluted with 6 times the amount of water, and the addition of 1 drop of retarder to every ounce after dilution.

To obtain very strong negatives:

On some brands of plates the addition of a little retarder will be necessary.

If stock solutions are preferred, they may be made as follows: