Oil of bergamot     96 parts
Oil of citron     96 parts
Oil of cedrat     96 parts
Oil of rosemary     48 parts
Oil of neroli     48 parts
Oil of lavender     48 parts
Oil of cavella     24 parts
Absolute alcohol  1,000 parts
Spirit of rosemary 25,000 parts
III.— Alcohol, 90 per cent  5,000 parts
Bergamot oil    220 parts
Lemon oil     75 parts
Neroli oil     20 parts
Rosemary oil      5 parts
Lavender oil French      5 parts

The oils are well dissolved in spirit and left alone for a few days with frequent shaking. Next add about 40 parts of acetic acid and filter after a while.

IV.— Alcohol, 90 per cent 5,000 parts
Lavender oil, French    35 parts
Lemon oil    30 parts
Portugallo oil    30 parts
Neroli oil    15 parts
Bergamot oil    15 parts
Petit grain oil     4 parts
Rosemary oil     4 parts
Orange water   700 parts
Cologne Spirits Or Deodorized Alcohol.
—This is used in all toilet preparations and perfumes. It is made thus:
Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 gallon
Powdered unslaked lime 4 drachms
Powdered alum 2 drachms
Spirit of nitrous ether 1 drachm

Mix the lime and alum, and add them to the alcohol, shaking the mixture well together; then add the sweet spirit of niter and set aside for 7 days, shaking occasionally; finally filter.

Florida Waters.—
Oil of bergamot 3 fluidounces
Oil of lavender 1 fluidounce
Oil of cloves 1 1/4 fluidrachms
Oil of cinnamon 2 1/2 fluidrachms
Oil of neroli   1/2 fluidrachm
Oil of lemon 1 fluidounce
Essence of jasmine 6 fluidounces
Essence of musk 2 fluidounces
Rose water 1 pint
Alcohol 8 pints

Mix, and if cloudy, filter through magnesium carbonate.

Lavender Water.
—This, the most famous of all the perfumed waters, was originally a distillate from a mixture of spirit and lavender flowers. This was the perfume. Then came a compound water, or “palsy water,” which was intended strictly for use as a medicine, but sometimes containing ambergris and musk, as well as red sanders wood. Only the odor of the old compound remains to us as a perfume, and this is the odor which all perfume compounders endeavor to hit. The most important precaution in making lavender water is to use well-matured oil of lavender. Some who take pride in this perfume use no oil which is less than 5 years old, and which has had 1 ounce of rectified spirit added to each pound of oil before being set aside to mature. After mixing, the perfume should stand for at least a month before filtering through gray filtering paper. This may be taken as a general instruction:
I.— Oil of lavender  1 1/2 ounces
Oil of bergamot  4 drachms
Essence ambergris  4 drachms
Proof spirit  3 pints
II.— English oil of lavender  1 ounce
Oil of bergamot  1 1/2 drachms
Essence of musk (No. 2)    1/2 ounce
Essence of ambergris    1/2 ounce
Proof spirit  2 pints
III.— English oil of lavender 1/2 ounce
Oil of bergamot  2 drachms
Essence of ambergris  1 drachm
Essence of musk (No. 1)  3 drachms
Oil of angelica  2 minims
Attar of rose  6 minims
Proof spirit  1 pint
IV.— Oil of lavender  4 ounces
Grain musk 15 grains
Oil of bergamot  2 1/2 ounces
Attar of rose  1 1/2 drachms
Oil of neroli    1/2 drachm
Spirit of nitrous ether  2 1/2 ounces
Triple rose water 12 ounces
Proof spirit  5 pints

Allow to stand 5 weeks before filtering.

Liquid Perfumes For The Handkerchief, Person, Etc.:

Acacia Extract.—

French acacia 400 parts
Tincture of amber (1 in 10)   3 parts
Eucalyptus oil   0.5 parts
Lavender oil   1 part
Bergamot oil   1 part
Tincture of musk   2 parts
Tincture of orris root 150 parts
Spirit of wine, 80 per cent 500 parts

Bishop Essence.—

Fresh green peel of unripe oranges    60.0 grams
Curaçao orange peel   180.0 grams
Malaga orange peel    90.0 grams
Ceylon cinnamon     2.0 grams
Cloves     7.5 grams
Vanilla    11.0 grams
Orange flower oil     4 drops
Spirit of wine 1,500.0 grams
Hungarian wine   720.0 grams

A dark-brown tincture of pleasant taste and smell.

Caroline Bouquet.—

Oil of lemon 15 minims
Oil of bergamot  1 drachm
Essence of rose  4 ounces
Essence of tuberose  4 ounces
Essence of violet  4 ounces
Tincture of orris  2 ounces

Alexandra Bouquet.—

Oil of bergamot  3 1/2 drachms
Oil of rose geranium    1/2 drachm
Oil of rose    1/2 drachm
Oil of cassia 15 minims
Deodorized alcohol  1 pint

Navy Bouquet.—

Spirit of sandalwood 10 ounces
Extract of patchouli 10 ounces
Spirit of rose 10 ounces
Spirit of vetivert 10 ounces
Extract of verbena 12 ounces

Bridal Bouquet.—Sandal oil, 30 minims; rose extract, 4 fluidounces; jasmine extract, 4 fluidounces; orange flower extract, 16 fluidounces; essence of vanilla, 1 fluidounce; essence of musk, 2 fluidounces; tincture of storax, 2 fluidounces. (The tincture of storax is prepared with liquid storax and alcohol [90 per cent], 1:20, by macerating for 7 days.)

Irish Bouquet.—

White rose essence 5,000 parts
Vanilla essence   450 parts
Rose oil     5 parts
Spirit   100 parts

Essence Bouquet.—

I.— Spirit 8,000 parts
Distilled water 2,000 parts
Iris tincture   250 parts
Vanilla herb tincture   100 parts
Benzoin tincture    40 parts
Bergamot oil    50 parts
Storax tincture    50 parts
Clove oil    15 parts
Palmarosa oil    12 parts
Lemon-grass oil    15 parts
II.— Extract of rose (2d)    64 ounces
Extract of jasmine (2d)    12 ounces
Extract of cassie (2d)     8 ounces
Tincture of orris (1 to 4)    64 ounces
Oil of bergamot       1/2 ounce
Oil of cloves     1 drachm
Oil of ylang-ylang       1/2 drachm
Tincture of benzoin (1 to 8)     2 ounces
Glycerine     4 ounces

Bouquet Canang.—

Ylang-ylang oil 45 minims
Grain musk  3 grains
Rose oil 15 minims
Tonka beans  3
Cassie oil  5 minims
Tincture orris rhizome  1 fluidounce
Civet  1 grain
Almond oil    1/2 minim
Storax tincture  3 fluidrachms
Alcohol, 90 per cent  9 fluidounces

Mix, and digest 1 month. The above is a very delicious perfume.

Cassie oil or otto is derived from the flowers of Acacia farnesiana Mimosa farnesiana, L. (N. O. Leguminosæ, suborder Mimoseæ). It must not be confounded with cassia otto, the essential oil obtained from Cinnamomum cassia.

Cashmere Nosegay.—

I.— Essence of violet, from pomade   1 pint
Essence of rose, from pomade   1 1/2 pints
Tincture of benzoin, (1 to 4)     1/2 pint
Tincture of civet (1 to 64)     1/4 pint
Tincture of Tonka (1 to 4)     1/4 pint
Benzoic acid     1/2 ounce
Oil of patchouli     1/4 ounce
Oil of sandal     1/2 ounce
Rose water     1/2 pint
II.— Essence violet 120 ounces
Essence rose 180 ounces
Tincture benjamin (1 in 4)  60 ounces
Tincture civet (1 in 62)  30 ounces
Tincture Tonka (1 in 4)  30 ounces
Oil patchouli   3 ounces
Oil sandalwood   6 ounces
Rose water  60 ounces

Clove Pink.—

I.— Essence of rose  2 ounces
Essence of orange flower  6 ounces
Tincture of vanilla  3 1/2 ounces
Oil of cloves 20 minims
II.— Essence of cassie  5 ounces
Essence of orange flower  5 ounces
Essence of rose 10 ounces
Spirit of rose  7 ounces
Tincture of vanilla  3 ounces
Oil of cloves 12 minims

Frangipanni.—

I.— Grain musk 10 grains
Sandal otto 25 minims
Rose otto 25 minims
Orange flower otto (neroli) 30 minims
Vetivert otto  5 minims
Powdered orris rhizome    1/2 ounce
Vanilla 30 grains
Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 fluidounces

Mix and digest for 1 month. This is a lasting and favorite perfume.

II.— Oil of rose  2 drachms
Oil of neroli  2 drachms
Oil of sandalwood  2 drachms
Oil of geranium (French)  2 drachms
Tincture of vetivert (1 1/4 to 8) 96 ounces
Tincture of Tonka (1 to 8) 16 ounces
Tincture of orris (1 to 4) 64 ounces
Glycerine  6 ounces
Alcohol 64 ounces

Handkerchief Perfumes.—

I.— Lavender oil  10 parts
Neroli oil  10 parts
Bitter almond oil   2 parts
Orris root 200 parts
Rose oil   5 parts
Clove oil   5 parts
Lemon oil   1 part
Cinnamon oil   2 parts

Mix with 2,500 parts of best alcohol, and after a rest of 3 days heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.

II.— Bergamot oil 10 parts
Orange peel oil 10 parts
Cinnamon oil  2 parts
Rose geranium oil  1 part
Lemon oil  4 parts
Lavender oil  4 parts
Rose oil  1 part
Vanilla essence  5 parts

Mix with 2,000 parts of best spirit, and after leaving undisturbed for 3 days, heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.

Honeysuckle.—

Oil of neroli 12 minims
Oil of rose 10 minims
Oil of bitter almond  8 minims
Tincture of storax  4 ounces
Tincture of vanilla  6 ounces
Essence of cassie 16 ounces
Essence of rose 16 ounces
Essence of tuberose 16 ounces
Essence of violet 16 ounces

Iridia.—

Coumarin 10 grains
Concentrated rose water (1 to 40)  2 ounces
Neroli oil  5 minims
Vanilla bean  1 drachm
Bitter almond oil  5 minims
Orris root  1 drachm
Alcohol 10 ounces

Macerate for a month. {517}

Javanese Bouquet.—

Rose oil 15 minims
Pimento oil 20 minims
Cassia oil  3 minims
Neroli oil  3 minims
Clove oil  2 minims
Lavender oil 60 minims
Sandalwood oil 10 minims
Alcohol 10 ounces
Water  1 1/2 ounces

Macerate for 14 days.

Lily Perfume.—

Essence of jasmine 1 ounce
Essence of orange flowers 1 ounce
Essence of rose 2 ounces
Essence of cassie 2 ounces
Essence of tuberose 8 ounces
Spirit of rose 1 ounce
Tincture of vanilla 1 ounce
Oil of bitter almond 2 minims

Lily of the Valley.—

I.— Acacia essence   750 parts
Jasmine essence   750 parts
Orange flower essence   800 parts
Rose flower essence   800 parts
Vanilla flower essence 1,500 parts
Bitter almond oil    15 parts
II.— Oil of bitter almond    10 minims
Tincture of vanilla     2 ounces
Essence of rose     2 ounces
Essence of orange flower     2 ounces
Essence of jasmine     2 1/2 ounces
Essence of tuberose     2 1/2 ounces
Spirit of rose     2 1/2 ounces
III.— Extract rose   200 parts
Extract vanilla   200 parts
Extract orange   800 parts
Extract jasmine   600 parts
Extract musk tincture   150 parts
Neroli oil    10 parts
Rose oil     6 parts
Bitter almond oil     4 parts
Cassia oil     5 parts
Bergamot oil     6 parts
Tonka beans essence   150 parts
Linaloa oil    12 parts
Spirit of wine (90 per cent) 3,000 parts
IV.— Neroli extract   400 parts
Orris root extract   600 parts
Vanilla extract   400 parts
Rose extract   900 parts
Musk extract   200 parts
Orange extract   500 parts
Clove oil     6 parts
Bergamot oil     5 parts
Rose geranium oil    15 parts

Maréchal Niel Rose.—In the genus of roses, outside of the hundred-leaved or cabbage rose, the Maréchal Niel rose (Rosa Noisetteana Red), also called Noisette rose and often, erroneously, tea rose, is especially conspicuous. Its fine, piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure, the following recipes will be found useful:

I.— Infusion rose I (from pomades) 1,000 parts
Genuine rose oil    10 parts
Infusion Tolu balsam   150 parts
Infusion genuine musk I    40 parts
Neroli oil    30 parts
Clove oil     2 parts
Infusion tubereuse I (from pomades) 1,000 parts
Vanillin     1 part
Coumarin     0.5 parts
II.— Triple rose essence    50 grams
Simple rose essence    60 grams
Neroli essence    30 grams
Civet essence    20 grams
Iris essence    30 grams
Tonka beans essence    20 grams
Rose oil     5 drops
Jasmine essence    60 grams
Violet essence    50 grams
Cassia essence    50 grams
Vanilla essence    45 grams
Clove oil    20 drops
Bergamot oil    10 drops
Rose geranium oil    20 drops

May Flowers.—

Essence of rose 10 ounces
Essence of jasmine 10 ounces
Essence of orange flowers 10 ounces
Essence of cassie 10 ounces
Tincture of vanilla 20 ounces
Oil of bitter almond    1/2 drachm

Narcissus.—

Caryophyllin 10 minims
Extract of tuberose 16 ounces
Extract of jasmine  4 ounces
Oil of neroli 20 minims
Oil of ylang-ylang 20 minims
Oil of clove  5 minims
Glycerine 30 minims
{518}

Almond Blossom.—

Extract of heliotrope 30 parts
Extract of orange flower 10 parts
Extract of jasmine 10 parts
Extract of rose  3 parts
Oil of lemon  1 part
Spirit of bitter almond, 10 per cent  6 parts
Deodorized alcohol 40 parts

Artificial Violet.—Ionone is an artificial perfume which smells exactly like fresh violets, and is therefore an extremely important product. Although before it was discovered compositions were known which gave fair imitations of the violet perfume, they were wanting in the characteristic tang which distinguishes all violet preparations. Ionone has even the curious property possessed by violets of losing its scent occasionally for a short time. It occasionally happens that an observer, on taking the stopper out of a bottle of ionone, perceives no special odor, but a few seconds after the stopper has been put back in the bottle, the whole room begins to smell of fresh violets. It seems to be a question of dilution. It is impossible, however, to make a usable extract by mere dilution of a 10 per cent solution of ionone.

It is advisable to make these preparations in somewhat large quantities, say 30 to 50 pounds at a time. This enables them to be stocked for some time, whereby they improve greatly. When all the ingredients are mixed, 10 days or a fortnight, with frequent shakings, should elapse before filtration. The filtered product must be kept in well-filled and well-corked bottles in a dry, dark, cool place, such as a well-ventilated cellar. After 5 or 6 weeks the preparation is ready for use.

Quadruple Extract.—

By weight
Jasmine extract, 1st pomade 100 parts
Rose extract, 1st pomade 100 parts
Cassia extract, 1st pomade 200 parts
Violet extract, 1st pomade 200 parts
Oil of geranium, Spanish   2 parts
Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent  10 parts
Solution of orris, 10 per cent 100 parts
Solution of ionone, 10 per cent  20 parts
Infusion of musk  10 parts
Infusion of orris from coarsely ground root 260 parts

Triple Extract.—

By weight
Cassia extract, 2d pomade 100 parts
Violet extract, 2d pomade 300 parts
Jasmine extract, 2d pomade 100 parts
Rose extract, 2d pomade 100 parts
Oil of geranium, African   1 part
Ionone, 10 per cent  15 parts
Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent   5 parts
Infusion of orris from coarse ground root 270 parts
Infusion of musk  10 parts

Double Extract.—

By weight
Cassia extract, 2d pomade 100 parts
Violet extract, 2d pomade 150 parts
Jasmine extract, 2d pomade 100 parts
Rose extract, 2d pomade 100 parts
Oil of geranium, reunion   2 parts
Ionone, 10 per cent  10 parts
Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent  10 parts
Infusion of ambrette  20 parts
Infusion of orris from coarse ground root 300 parts
Spirit 210 parts

White Rose.—

Rose oil 25 minims
Rose geranium oil 20 minims
Patchouli oil  5 minims
Ionone  3 minims
Jasmine oil (synthetic)  5 minims
Alcohol 10 ounces

Ylang-Ylang Perfume.—

I.— Ylang-ylang oil 10 minims
Neroli oil  5 minims
Rose oil  5 minims
Bergamot oil  3 minims
Alcohol 10 ounces

One grain of musk may be added.

II.— Extract of cassie (2d) 96 ounces
Extract of jasmine (2d) 24 ounces
Extract of rose 24 ounces
Tincture of orris  4 ounces
Oil of ylang-ylang  6 drachms
Glycerine  6 ounces

TOILET WATERS.

Toilet waters proper are perfumed liquids designed more especially as refreshing applications to the person—accessories to the bath and to the operations of the barber. They are used sparingly on the handkerchief also, but should not be of so persistent a character as the “extracts” commonly used for that purpose, as they would then be unsuitable as lotions.

Ammonia Water.—Fill a 6-ounce ground glass stoppered bottle with a rather wide mouth with pieces of ammonium carbonate as large as a marble, then drop in the following essential oils:

Oil of lavender 30 drops
Oil of bergamot 30 drops
Oil of rose 10 drops
Oil of cinnamon 10 drops
Oil of clove 10 drops

Finally fill the bottle with stronger water of ammonia, put in the stopper and let stand overnight.

Birch-Bud Water.—Alcohol (96 per cent), 350 parts; water, 70 parts; soft soap, 20 parts; glycerine, 15 parts; essential oil of birch buds, 5 parts; essence of spring flowers, 10 parts; chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to tint. Mix the water with an equal volume of spirit and dissolve the soap in the mixture. Mix the oil and other ingredients with the remainder of the spirit, add the soap solution gradually, agitate well, allow to stand for 8 days and filter. For use, dilute with an equal volume of water.

Carmelite Balm Water.—

Melissa oil 30 minims
Sweet marjoram oil  3 minims
Cinnamon oil 10 minims
Angelica oil  3 minims
Citron oil 30 minims
Clove oil 15 minims
Coriander oil  5 minims
Nutmeg oil  5 minims
Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 fluidounces

Angelica oil is obtained principally from the aromatic root of Angelica archangelica, L. (N. O. Umbelliferæ), which is commonly cultivated for the sake of the volatile oil which it yields.

Cypress Water.—

Essence of ambergris   1/2 ounce
Spirits of wine 1 gallon
Water 2 quarts

Distill a gallon.

Eau de Botot.—

Aniseed  80 parts
Clover  20 parts
Cinnamon cassia  20 parts
Cochineal   5 parts
Refined spirit 800 parts
Rose water 200 parts

Digest for 8 days and add