| Oil of bergamot | 96 parts | |
| Oil of citron | 96 parts | |
| Oil of cedrat | 96 parts | |
| Oil of rosemary | 48 parts | |
| Oil of neroli | 48 parts | |
| Oil of lavender | 48 parts | |
| Oil of cavella | 24 parts | |
| Absolute alcohol | 1,000 parts | |
| Spirit of rosemary | 25,000 parts | |
| III.— | Alcohol, 90 per cent | 5,000 parts |
| Bergamot oil | 220 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 75 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 20 parts | |
| Rosemary oil | 5 parts | |
| Lavender oil French | 5 parts |
The oils are well dissolved in spirit and left alone for a few days with frequent shaking. Next add about 40 parts of acetic acid and filter after a while.
| IV.— | Alcohol, 90 per cent | 5,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Lavender oil, French | 35 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 30 parts | |
| Portugallo oil | 30 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 15 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 15 parts | |
| Petit grain oil | 4 parts | |
| Rosemary oil | 4 parts | |
| Orange water | 700 parts |
| Alcohol, 95 per cent | 1 gallon |
| Powdered unslaked lime | 4 drachms |
| Powdered alum | 2 drachms |
| Spirit of nitrous ether | 1 drachm |
Mix the lime and alum, and add them to the alcohol, shaking the mixture well together; then add the sweet spirit of niter and set aside for 7 days, shaking occasionally; finally filter.
| Oil of bergamot | 3 fluidounces |
| Oil of lavender | 1 fluidounce |
| Oil of cloves | 1 1/4 fluidrachms |
| Oil of cinnamon | 2 1/2 fluidrachms |
| Oil of neroli | 1/2 fluidrachm |
| Oil of lemon | 1 fluidounce |
| Essence of jasmine | 6 fluidounces |
| Essence of musk | 2 fluidounces |
| Rose water | 1 pint |
| Alcohol | 8 pints |
Mix, and if cloudy, filter through magnesium carbonate.
| I.— | Oil of lavender | 1 1/2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of bergamot | 4 drachms | |
| Essence ambergris | 4 drachms | |
| Proof spirit | 3 pints | |
| II.— | English oil of lavender | 1 ounce |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Essence of musk (No. 2) | 1/2 ounce | |
| Essence of ambergris | 1/2 ounce | |
| Proof spirit | 2 pints | |
| III.— | English oil of lavender | 1/2 ounce |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 drachms | |
| Essence of ambergris | 1 drachm | |
| Essence of musk (No. 1) | 3 drachms | |
| Oil of angelica | 2 minims | |
| Attar of rose | 6 minims | |
| Proof spirit | 1 pint | |
| IV.— | Oil of lavender | 4 ounces |
| Grain musk | 15 grains | |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Attar of rose | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Oil of neroli | 1/2 drachm | |
| Spirit of nitrous ether | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Triple rose water | 12 ounces | |
| Proof spirit | 5 pints |
Allow to stand 5 weeks before filtering.
Acacia Extract.—
| French acacia | 400 parts |
| Tincture of amber (1 in 10) | 3 parts |
| Eucalyptus oil | 0.5 parts |
| Lavender oil | 1 part |
| Bergamot oil | 1 part |
| Tincture of musk | 2 parts |
| Tincture of orris root | 150 parts |
| Spirit of wine, 80 per cent | 500 parts |
Bishop Essence.—
| Fresh green peel of unripe oranges | 60.0 grams |
| Curaçao orange peel | 180.0 grams |
| Malaga orange peel | 90.0 grams |
| Ceylon cinnamon | 2.0 grams |
| Cloves | 7.5 grams |
| Vanilla | 11.0 grams |
| Orange flower oil | 4 drops |
| Spirit of wine | 1,500.0 grams |
| Hungarian wine | 720.0 grams |
A dark-brown tincture of pleasant taste and smell.
Caroline Bouquet.—
| Oil of lemon | 15 minims |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 drachm |
| Essence of rose | 4 ounces |
| Essence of tuberose | 4 ounces |
| Essence of violet | 4 ounces |
| Tincture of orris | 2 ounces |
Alexandra Bouquet.—
| Oil of bergamot | 3 1/2 drachms |
| Oil of rose geranium | 1/2 drachm |
| Oil of rose | 1/2 drachm |
| Oil of cassia | 15 minims |
| Deodorized alcohol | 1 pint |
Navy Bouquet.—
| Spirit of sandalwood | 10 ounces |
| Extract of patchouli | 10 ounces |
| Spirit of rose | 10 ounces |
| Spirit of vetivert | 10 ounces |
| Extract of verbena | 12 ounces |
Bridal Bouquet.—Sandal oil, 30 minims; rose extract, 4 fluidounces; jasmine extract, 4 fluidounces; orange flower extract, 16 fluidounces; essence of vanilla, 1 fluidounce; essence of musk, 2 fluidounces; tincture of storax, 2 fluidounces. (The tincture of storax is prepared with liquid storax and alcohol [90 per cent], 1:20, by macerating for 7 days.)
Irish Bouquet.—
| White rose essence | 5,000 parts |
| Vanilla essence | 450 parts |
| Rose oil | 5 parts |
| Spirit | 100 parts |
Essence Bouquet.—
| I.— | Spirit | 8,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 2,000 parts | |
| Iris tincture | 250 parts | |
| Vanilla herb tincture | 100 parts | |
| Benzoin tincture | 40 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 50 parts | |
| Storax tincture | 50 parts | |
| Clove oil | 15 parts | |
| Palmarosa oil | 12 parts | |
| Lemon-grass oil | 15 parts | |
| II.— | Extract of rose (2d) | 64 ounces |
| Extract of jasmine (2d) | 12 ounces | |
| Extract of cassie (2d) | 8 ounces | |
| Tincture of orris (1 to 4) | 64 ounces | |
| Oil of bergamot | 1/2 ounce | |
| Oil of cloves | 1 drachm | |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 1/2 drachm | |
| Tincture of benzoin (1 to 8) | 2 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 4 ounces |
Bouquet Canang.—
| Ylang-ylang oil | 45 minims |
| Grain musk | 3 grains |
| Rose oil | 15 minims |
| Tonka beans | 3 |
| Cassie oil | 5 minims |
| Tincture orris rhizome | 1 fluidounce |
| Civet | 1 grain |
| Almond oil | 1/2 minim |
| Storax tincture | 3 fluidrachms |
| Alcohol, 90 per cent | 9 fluidounces |
Mix, and digest 1 month. The above is a very delicious perfume.
Cassie oil or otto is derived from the flowers of Acacia farnesiana Mimosa farnesiana, L. (N. O. Leguminosæ, suborder Mimoseæ). It must not be confounded with cassia otto, the essential oil obtained from Cinnamomum cassia.
Cashmere Nosegay.—
| I.— | Essence of violet, from pomade | 1 pint |
|---|---|---|
| Essence of rose, from pomade | 1 1/2 pints | |
| Tincture of benzoin, (1 to 4) | 1/2 pint | |
| Tincture of civet (1 to 64) | 1/4 pint | |
| Tincture of Tonka (1 to 4) | 1/4 pint | |
| Benzoic acid | 1/2 ounce | |
| Oil of patchouli | 1/4 ounce | |
| Oil of sandal | 1/2 ounce | |
| Rose water | 1/2 pint | |
| II.— | Essence violet | 120 ounces |
| Essence rose | 180 ounces | |
| Tincture benjamin (1 in 4) | 60 ounces | |
| Tincture civet (1 in 62) | 30 ounces | |
| Tincture Tonka (1 in 4) | 30 ounces | |
| Oil patchouli | 3 ounces | |
| Oil sandalwood | 6 ounces | |
| Rose water | 60 ounces |
Clove Pink.—
| I.— | Essence of rose | 2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Essence of orange flower | 6 ounces | |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3 1/2 ounces | |
| Oil of cloves | 20 minims | |
| II.— | Essence of cassie | 5 ounces |
| Essence of orange flower | 5 ounces | |
| Essence of rose | 10 ounces | |
| Spirit of rose | 7 ounces | |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3 ounces | |
| Oil of cloves | 12 minims |
Frangipanni.—
| I.— | Grain musk | 10 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Sandal otto | 25 minims | |
| Rose otto | 25 minims | |
| Orange flower otto (neroli) | 30 minims | |
| Vetivert otto | 5 minims | |
| Powdered orris rhizome | 1/2 ounce | |
| Vanilla | 30 grains | |
| Alcohol (90 per cent) | 10 fluidounces |
Mix and digest for 1 month. This is a lasting and favorite perfume.
| II.— | Oil of rose | 2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of neroli | 2 drachms | |
| Oil of sandalwood | 2 drachms | |
| Oil of geranium (French) | 2 drachms | |
| Tincture of vetivert (1 1/4 to 8) | 96 ounces | |
| Tincture of Tonka (1 to 8) | 16 ounces | |
| Tincture of orris (1 to 4) | 64 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 6 ounces | |
| Alcohol | 64 ounces |
Handkerchief Perfumes.—
| I.— | Lavender oil | 10 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Neroli oil | 10 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 2 parts | |
| Orris root | 200 parts | |
| Rose oil | 5 parts | |
| Clove oil | 5 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 1 part | |
| Cinnamon oil | 2 parts |
Mix with 2,500 parts of best alcohol, and after a rest of 3 days heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.
| II.— | Bergamot oil | 10 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Orange peel oil | 10 parts | |
| Cinnamon oil | 2 parts | |
| Rose geranium oil | 1 part | |
| Lemon oil | 4 parts | |
| Lavender oil | 4 parts | |
| Rose oil | 1 part | |
| Vanilla essence | 5 parts |
Mix with 2,000 parts of best spirit, and after leaving undisturbed for 3 days, heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.
Honeysuckle.—
| Oil of neroli | 12 minims |
| Oil of rose | 10 minims |
| Oil of bitter almond | 8 minims |
| Tincture of storax | 4 ounces |
| Tincture of vanilla | 6 ounces |
| Essence of cassie | 16 ounces |
| Essence of rose | 16 ounces |
| Essence of tuberose | 16 ounces |
| Essence of violet | 16 ounces |
Iridia.—
| Coumarin | 10 grains |
| Concentrated rose water (1 to 40) | 2 ounces |
| Neroli oil | 5 minims |
| Vanilla bean | 1 drachm |
| Bitter almond oil | 5 minims |
| Orris root | 1 drachm |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
Macerate for a month. {517}
Javanese Bouquet.—
| Rose oil | 15 minims |
| Pimento oil | 20 minims |
| Cassia oil | 3 minims |
| Neroli oil | 3 minims |
| Clove oil | 2 minims |
| Lavender oil | 60 minims |
| Sandalwood oil | 10 minims |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
| Water | 1 1/2 ounces |
Macerate for 14 days.
Lily Perfume.—
| Essence of jasmine | 1 ounce |
| Essence of orange flowers | 1 ounce |
| Essence of rose | 2 ounces |
| Essence of cassie | 2 ounces |
| Essence of tuberose | 8 ounces |
| Spirit of rose | 1 ounce |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 ounce |
| Oil of bitter almond | 2 minims |
Lily of the Valley.—
| I.— | Acacia essence | 750 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Jasmine essence | 750 parts | |
| Orange flower essence | 800 parts | |
| Rose flower essence | 800 parts | |
| Vanilla flower essence | 1,500 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 15 parts | |
| II.— | Oil of bitter almond | 10 minims |
| Tincture of vanilla | 2 ounces | |
| Essence of rose | 2 ounces | |
| Essence of orange flower | 2 ounces | |
| Essence of jasmine | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Essence of tuberose | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Spirit of rose | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| III.— | Extract rose | 200 parts |
| Extract vanilla | 200 parts | |
| Extract orange | 800 parts | |
| Extract jasmine | 600 parts | |
| Extract musk tincture | 150 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 10 parts | |
| Rose oil | 6 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 4 parts | |
| Cassia oil | 5 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 6 parts | |
| Tonka beans essence | 150 parts | |
| Linaloa oil | 12 parts | |
| Spirit of wine (90 per cent) | 3,000 parts | |
| IV.— | Neroli extract | 400 parts |
| Orris root extract | 600 parts | |
| Vanilla extract | 400 parts | |
| Rose extract | 900 parts | |
| Musk extract | 200 parts | |
| Orange extract | 500 parts | |
| Clove oil | 6 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 5 parts | |
| Rose geranium oil | 15 parts |
Maréchal Niel Rose.—In the genus of roses, outside of the hundred-leaved or cabbage rose, the Maréchal Niel rose (Rosa Noisetteana Red), also called Noisette rose and often, erroneously, tea rose, is especially conspicuous. Its fine, piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure, the following recipes will be found useful:
| I.— | Infusion rose I (from pomades) | 1,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Genuine rose oil | 10 parts | |
| Infusion Tolu balsam | 150 parts | |
| Infusion genuine musk I | 40 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 30 parts | |
| Clove oil | 2 parts | |
| Infusion tubereuse I (from pomades) | 1,000 parts | |
| Vanillin | 1 part | |
| Coumarin | 0.5 parts | |
| II.— | Triple rose essence | 50 grams |
| Simple rose essence | 60 grams | |
| Neroli essence | 30 grams | |
| Civet essence | 20 grams | |
| Iris essence | 30 grams | |
| Tonka beans essence | 20 grams | |
| Rose oil | 5 drops | |
| Jasmine essence | 60 grams | |
| Violet essence | 50 grams | |
| Cassia essence | 50 grams | |
| Vanilla essence | 45 grams | |
| Clove oil | 20 drops | |
| Bergamot oil | 10 drops | |
| Rose geranium oil | 20 drops |
May Flowers.—
| Essence of rose | 10 ounces |
| Essence of jasmine | 10 ounces |
| Essence of orange flowers | 10 ounces |
| Essence of cassie | 10 ounces |
| Tincture of vanilla | 20 ounces |
| Oil of bitter almond | 1/2 drachm |
Narcissus.—
| Caryophyllin | 10 minims |
| Extract of tuberose | 16 ounces |
| Extract of jasmine | 4 ounces |
| Oil of neroli | 20 minims |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 20 minims |
| Oil of clove | 5 minims |
| Glycerine | 30 minims |
Almond Blossom.—
| Extract of heliotrope | 30 parts |
| Extract of orange flower | 10 parts |
| Extract of jasmine | 10 parts |
| Extract of rose | 3 parts |
| Oil of lemon | 1 part |
| Spirit of bitter almond, 10 per cent | 6 parts |
| Deodorized alcohol | 40 parts |
Artificial Violet.—Ionone is an artificial perfume which smells exactly like fresh violets, and is therefore an extremely important product. Although before it was discovered compositions were known which gave fair imitations of the violet perfume, they were wanting in the characteristic tang which distinguishes all violet preparations. Ionone has even the curious property possessed by violets of losing its scent occasionally for a short time. It occasionally happens that an observer, on taking the stopper out of a bottle of ionone, perceives no special odor, but a few seconds after the stopper has been put back in the bottle, the whole room begins to smell of fresh violets. It seems to be a question of dilution. It is impossible, however, to make a usable extract by mere dilution of a 10 per cent solution of ionone.
It is advisable to make these preparations in somewhat large quantities, say 30 to 50 pounds at a time. This enables them to be stocked for some time, whereby they improve greatly. When all the ingredients are mixed, 10 days or a fortnight, with frequent shakings, should elapse before filtration. The filtered product must be kept in well-filled and well-corked bottles in a dry, dark, cool place, such as a well-ventilated cellar. After 5 or 6 weeks the preparation is ready for use.
Quadruple Extract.—
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Jasmine extract, 1st pomade | 100 parts |
| Rose extract, 1st pomade | 100 parts |
| Cassia extract, 1st pomade | 200 parts |
| Violet extract, 1st pomade | 200 parts |
| Oil of geranium, Spanish | 2 parts |
| Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent | 10 parts |
| Solution of orris, 10 per cent | 100 parts |
| Solution of ionone, 10 per cent | 20 parts |
| Infusion of musk | 10 parts |
| Infusion of orris from coarsely ground root | 260 parts |
Triple Extract.—
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Cassia extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Violet extract, 2d pomade | 300 parts |
| Jasmine extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Rose extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Oil of geranium, African | 1 part |
| Ionone, 10 per cent | 15 parts |
| Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent | 5 parts |
| Infusion of orris from coarse ground root | 270 parts |
| Infusion of musk | 10 parts |
Double Extract.—
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Cassia extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Violet extract, 2d pomade | 150 parts |
| Jasmine extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Rose extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Oil of geranium, reunion | 2 parts |
| Ionone, 10 per cent | 10 parts |
| Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent | 10 parts |
| Infusion of ambrette | 20 parts |
| Infusion of orris from coarse ground root | 300 parts |
| Spirit | 210 parts |
White Rose.—
| Rose oil | 25 minims |
| Rose geranium oil | 20 minims |
| Patchouli oil | 5 minims |
| Ionone | 3 minims |
| Jasmine oil (synthetic) | 5 minims |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
Ylang-Ylang Perfume.—
| I.— | Ylang-ylang oil | 10 minims |
|---|---|---|
| Neroli oil | 5 minims | |
| Rose oil | 5 minims | |
| Bergamot oil | 3 minims | |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
One grain of musk may be added.
| II.— | Extract of cassie (2d) | 96 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Extract of jasmine (2d) | 24 ounces | |
| Extract of rose | 24 ounces | |
| Tincture of orris | 4 ounces | |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 6 drachms | |
| Glycerine | 6 ounces |
TOILET WATERS.
Toilet waters proper are perfumed liquids designed more especially as refreshing applications to the person—accessories to the bath and to the operations of the barber. They are used sparingly on the handkerchief also, but should not be of so persistent a character as the “extracts” commonly used for that purpose, as they would then be unsuitable as lotions.
Ammonia Water.—Fill a 6-ounce ground glass stoppered bottle with a rather wide mouth with pieces of ammonium carbonate as large as a marble, then drop in the following essential oils:
| Oil of lavender | 30 drops |
| Oil of bergamot | 30 drops |
| Oil of rose | 10 drops |
| Oil of cinnamon | 10 drops |
| Oil of clove | 10 drops |
Finally fill the bottle with stronger water of ammonia, put in the stopper and let stand overnight.
Birch-Bud Water.—Alcohol (96 per cent), 350 parts; water, 70 parts; soft soap, 20 parts; glycerine, 15 parts; essential oil of birch buds, 5 parts; essence of spring flowers, 10 parts; chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to tint. Mix the water with an equal volume of spirit and dissolve the soap in the mixture. Mix the oil and other ingredients with the remainder of the spirit, add the soap solution gradually, agitate well, allow to stand for 8 days and filter. For use, dilute with an equal volume of water.
Carmelite Balm Water.—
| Melissa oil | 30 minims |
| Sweet marjoram oil | 3 minims |
| Cinnamon oil | 10 minims |
| Angelica oil | 3 minims |
| Citron oil | 30 minims |
| Clove oil | 15 minims |
| Coriander oil | 5 minims |
| Nutmeg oil | 5 minims |
| Alcohol (90 per cent) | 10 fluidounces |
Angelica oil is obtained principally from the aromatic root of Angelica archangelica, L. (N. O. Umbelliferæ), which is commonly cultivated for the sake of the volatile oil which it yields.
Cypress Water.—
| Essence of ambergris | 1/2 ounce |
| Spirits of wine | 1 gallon |
| Water | 2 quarts |
Distill a gallon.
Eau de Botot.—
| Aniseed | 80 parts |
| Clover | 20 parts |
| Cinnamon cassia | 20 parts |
| Cochineal | 5 parts |
| Refined spirit | 800 parts |
| Rose water | 200 parts |
Digest for 8 days and add