Mix the oil with the spirit of wine and rub up with the magnesia in a mortar; gradually add the water and finally filter.

Foamy Scalp Wash.—Mix 2 parts of soap spirit, 1 part of borax-glycerine (1+2), 6 parts of barium, and 7 parts of orange-flower water.

Lanolin Hair Wash.—Extract 4 parts quillaia bark with 36 parts water for several days, mix the percolate with 4 parts alcohol, and filter after having settled. Agitate 40 parts of the filtrate at a temperature at which wool grease becomes liquid, with 12 parts anhydrous lanolin, and fill up with water to which 15 per cent spirit of wine has been added, to 300 parts. Admixture, such as cinchona extract, Peru balsam, quinine, tincture of cantharides, bay-oil, ammonium carbonate, menthol, etc., may be made. The result is a yellowish-white, milky liquid, with a cream-like fat layer floating on the top, which is finely distributed by agitating.

Birch Water.—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally {390} add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which add a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

Petroleum Hair Washes.—I.—Deodorized pale petroleum, 10 parts; citronella oil, 10 parts; castor oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine, 90 per cent, 50 parts; water, 75 parts.

II.—Quinine sulphate, 10 parts; acetic acid, 4 parts; tincture of cantharides, 30 parts; tincture of quinine, 3 parts; spirit of rosemary, 60 parts; balm water, 90 parts; barium, 120 parts; spirit of wine, 150 parts; water, 1,000 parts.

III.—Very pure petroleum, 1 part; almond oil, 2 parts.

Brilliantine.—I.—Olive oil, 4 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; alcohol, 3 parts; scent as desired. Shake before use.

II.—Castor oil, 1 part; alcohol, 2 parts; saffron to dye yellow. Scent as desired.

III.—Lard, 7 parts; spermaceti, 7 parts; almond oil, 7 parts; white wax, 1 part.

A Cheap Hair Oil.—I.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 15 parts; bergamot oil, 10 parts; and geranium oil, 5 parts.

II.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 12 parts; lemon oil, 20 parts; rosemary oil, 5 parts; and geranium oil, 2 parts.

Hair Dyes.

There is no hair dye which produces a durable coloration; the color becomes gradually weaker in the course of time. Here are some typical formulas in which a mordant is employed:

I.—

Mordant:

II.—

III.—

Dissolve the salts in ¹/₂ ounce of water and add ammonia until the precipitate which is formed is redissolved, Then make up to 1 ounce with water. Apply to the hair with a brush. This solution slowly gives a brown shade. For darker shades, apply a second solution, composed of:

Black Hair Dye without Silver.—

If the dye does not impart the desired intensity of color, the amount of pyrogallic acid may be increased. The wash is applied evenings, followed in the morning by a weak ammoniacal wash.

One Bottle Preparation.—

Dissolve the salts in the water and add the water of ammonia carefully until the precipitate is all redissolved. This solution, properly applied, is said to produce a very black color; a lighter shade is secured by diluting the solution. Copper sulphate may be used instead of the nitrate.

Brown Hair Dyes.—A large excess of ammonia tends to produce a brownish dye. Various shades of brown may be produced by increasing the amount of water in the silver solution. It should be remembered that the hair must, previously to treatment, be washed with warm water containing sodium carbonate, well rinsed with clear water, and dried.

Dissolve the two salts in the distilled water and add the ammonia water until the liquid becomes a clear fluid.

In using apply to the hair carefully {391} with a tooth-brush, after thoroughly cleansing the hair, and expose the latter to the rays of the sun.

Various shades of brown may be produced by properly diluting the solution before it be applied.

Use heat to effect solution. Also:

When effervescence of the latter has ceased, mix the cold liquids by pouring the latter into the former with constant stirring. Allow the precipitate to subside; transfer it to a filter or strainer, and wash with water until free from the sodium nitrate formed.

Chestnut Hair Dye.—

Dissolve the acid in the water, and to the solution add the bismuth nitrate and stir until dissolved. Pour the resulting solution into 1 pint of water and collect the magma on a filter. Remove all traces of acid from the magma by repeated washings with water; then dissolve it in:

Hair Restorers And Tonics:

The patient is directed to part the hair, and then to rub in a small portion of the ointment along the part, working it well into the scalp. Then another part is made parallel to the first, and more ointment rubbed in. Thus a series of first, longitudinal, and then transverse parts are made, until the whole scalp has been well anointed. Done in this way, it is not necessary to smear up the whole shaft of the hair, but only to reach the hair roots and the sebaceous glands, where the trouble is located. This process is thoroughly performed for six successive nights, and the seventh night another shampoo is taken. The eighth night the inunctions are commenced again, and this is continued for six weeks. In almost every case the production of dandruff is checked completely after six weeks’ treatment, and the hair, which may have been falling out rapidly before, begins to take firmer root. To be sure, many hairs which are on the point of falling when treatment is begun will fall anyway, and it may even seem for a time as if the treatment were increasing the hair-fall, on account of the mechanical dislodgment of such hairs, but this need never alarm one.

After six weeks of such treatment the shampoo may be taken less frequently.

Next to dandruff, perhaps, the most common cause of early loss of hair is heredity. In some families all of the male members, or all who resemble one particular ancestor, lose their hair early. Dark-haired families and races, as a rule, become bald earlier than those with light hair. At first thought it would seem as though nothing could be done to prevent premature baldness when heredity is the cause, but this is a mistake. Careful hygiene of the scalp will often counterbalance hereditary predisposition for a number of years, and even after the hair has actually begun to fall proper stimulation will, to a certain extent, and for a limited time, often restore to the hair its pristine thickness and strength. Any of the rubefacients may be prescribed for this purpose for daily use, such as croton oil, 1 ¹/₂ per cent; tincture of cantharides, 15 per cent; oil of cinnamon, 40 per cent; tincture of capsicum, 15 per cent; oil of mustard, 1 per cent; or any one of a dozen others. Tincture of capsicum is one of the best, and for a routine prescription the following has served well:

It is to be recommended that the stimulant be changed from time to time, so as not to rely on any one to the exclusion of others. Jaborandi, oxygen gas, quinine, and other agents have enjoyed a great reputation as hair-producers for a time, and have then taken their proper position as aids, but not specifics, in restoring the hair.

It is well known that after many fevers, especially those accompanied by great depression, such as pneumonia, typhoid, puerperal, or scarlet fever, the hair is liable to fall out. This is brought about in a variety of ways: In scarlatina, the hair papilla shares in the general desquamation; in typhoid and the other fevers the baldness may be the result either of the excessive seborrhea, which often accompanies these diseases, or may be caused by the general lowering of nutrition of the body. Unless the hair-fall be accompanied by considerable dandruff (in which case the above-mentioned treatment should be vigorously employed), the ordinary hygiene of the scalp will result in a restoration of the hair in most cases, but the employment of moderate local stimulation, with the use of good general tonics, will hasten this end. It seems unwise to cut the hair of women short in these cases, because the baldness is practically never complete, and a certain proportion of the hairs will retain firm root. These may be augmented by a switch made of the hair which has fallen out, until the new hair shall have grown long enough to do up well. In this way all of that oftentimes most annoying short-hair period is avoided.

For Falling Hair.—

The lotion is to be applied to the scalp every evening at bedtime.

Mix.

I.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts; water, 300 parts; glycerine, 150 parts; scent essence, 100 parts; color with sugar color.

II.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 1,500 parts; quinine tannate, 4 parts; Peru balsam, 20 parts; essence heliotrope, 50 parts. Dissolve the quinine and the Peru balsam in the spirit and then add the jaborandi tincture and the heliotrope essence. Filter after a week. Rub into the scalp twice a week before retiring.

Pomades:

I.—Cinchona Pomade.—

II.—Cantharides Pomade.—

Pinaud Eau de Quinine.—The composition of this nostrum is not known. Dr. Tsheppe failed to find in it any constituent of cinchona bark. The absence of quinine from the mixture probably would not hurt it, as the “tonic” effect of quinine on the hair is generally regarded as a myth.

On the other hand, it has been stated that this preparation contains:

Shampoos:

A Hair Shampoo is usually a tincture of odorless soft soap. It is mostly perfumed with lavender and colored with green aniline. Prepared the same as tr. sapon. virid. (U. S. P.), using an inexpensive soft soap, that is a good foam producer. Directions: Wet the hair well in warm water and rub in a few teaspoonfuls of the following formulas. No. I is considered the best: {393}

Warm the mixed oils on a large water bath, then the potash and water in another vessel, heating both to 158° F., and adding the latter hot solution to the hot oil while stirring briskly. Now add and thoroughly mix the alcohol. Stop stirring, keeping the heat at 158° F., until the mass becomes clear and a small quantity dissolves in boiling water without globules of oil separating. If stirred after the alcohol has been mixed the soap will be opaque. Set aside for a few days in a warm place before using to make liquid shampoo.

Liquid Shampoos.—

Shampoo Pastes.—

Dissolve the soap in the water by means of heat; when nearly cold stir in the other ingredients.

To the water add the soap, in shavings, and the potassium carbonate, and heat on a water bath until thoroughly softened; add the glycerine and oils. If necessary to reduce to proper consistency, more water may be added.

Egg Shampoo.—

Beat the egg whites to a froth, and add the other ingredients in the order in which they are named, with a thorough mixing after each addition.

Imitation Egg Shampoos.—Many of the egg shampoos are so called from their appearance. They usually contain no egg and are merely preparations of perfumed soft soap. Here are some formulas:

Make a homogeneous paste by heating with water.

II.—Melt 3 ¹/₂ pounds of lard over a salt-water bath and run into it a lye formed by dissolving 8 ounces of caustic potassa in 1 ¹/₂ pints of water. Stir well until saponification is effected and perfume as desired.

HAIR REMOVERS: See Depilatories.

HAMBURG BITTERS: See Wines and Liquors.

HAMMER HARDENING: See Steel.

HAND CREAMS: See Cosmetics.

HANDS, TO REMOVE STAINS FROM THE: See Cleaning Preparations.

HARE-LIP OPERATION, ANTISEPTIC PASTE FOR: See Antiseptics.

HARNESS DRESSINGS AND PREPARATIONS: See Leather Dressings.

HARNESS WAX: See Waxes.

HAT-CLEANING COMPOUNDS: See Cleaning Compounds.

HAT WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing. {394}

HATS:

I.—For dark varnishes prepare a basis consisting of orange shellac, 900 parts; sandarac, 225 parts; Manila copal, 225 parts; castor oil, 55 parts; and wood-spirit, 9,000 parts. To color, add to the foregoing amount alcohol-soluble, coal-tar dyes as follows: Black, 55 parts of soluble ivory-black (modified by blue or green). Olive-brown, 15 parts of brilliant-green, 55 parts of Bismarck brown R, 8 parts of spirit blue. Olive-green, 28 parts of brilliant-green, 28 parts of Bismarck-brown R. Walnut, 55 parts of Bismarck-brown R, 15 parts of nigrosin. Mahogany, 28 parts of Bismarck-brown R, which may be deepened by a little nigrosin.

II.—For light colors prepare a varnish as follows: Sandarac, 1,350 parts; elemi, 450 parts; rosin, 450 parts; castor oil, 110 parts; wood-spirit, 9,000 parts. For this amount use dyes as follows: Gold, 55 parts of chrysoidin, 55 parts of aniline-yellow. Light green, 55 parts of brilliant-green, 7 parts of aniline-yellow. Blue, 55 parts of spirit blue. Deep blue, 55 parts of spirit blue, 55 parts of indulin. Violet, 28 parts of methyl-violet, 3 B. Crimson, 55 parts of safranin. Chestnut, 55 parts of safranin, 15 parts of indulin.

In this dissolve aniline dyes of the requisite color, and apply. For white straw, white shellac must be used.

To Extract Shellac From Fur Hats.—

Use the common solvents, as carbon bisulphide, benzine, wood alcohol, turpentine, and so forth, reclaiming the spirit and shellac by a suitable still.

HEADACHE REMEDIES:

See also Pain Killers.

To secure a satisfactory product from the foregoing formula it is necessary to look carefully to the quality of the oils. Oil of cedrat is prone to change, and oil of orange peel, if exposed to the atmosphere for a short time, becomes worthless, and will spoil the other materials.

A delightful combination of the acetic odor with that of cologne water may be had by adding to a pint of the foregoing, 2 drachms of glacial acetic acid. The odor so produced may be more grateful to some invalids than the neroli and lemon bouquet.

Still another striking variation of the cologne odor, suitable for the use indicated, may be made by adding to a pint of cologne water an ounce of ammoniated alcohol.

Liquid Headache Remedies.—

Dissolve the acetanilid in the alcohol, the ammonium carbonate in the water, mix each solution with a portion of the simple elixir, and mix the whole together.

HEAT-INDICATING PAINT: See Paint.

HEAT INSULATION: See Insulation.

HEAT, PRICKLY: See Household Formulas.

HEAT-RESISTANT LACQUERS: See Lacquers.

HEAVES: See Veterinary Formulas.

HEDGE MUSTARD.

Hedge mustard (erysimum) was at one time a popular remedy in France for hoarseness, and is still used in country districts, but is not often prescribed.

To be taken at one dose.

HERBARIUM SPECIMENS, MOUNTING.

A matter of first importance, after drying the herbarium specimens, is to poison them, to prevent the attacks of insects. This is done by brushing them over on both sides, using a camel’s-hair pencil, with a solution of 2 grains of {395} corrosive sublimate to an ounce of methylated spirit. In tropical climates the solution is generally used of twice this strength. There are several methods of mounting them. Leaves with a waxy surface and coriaceous texture are best stitched through the middle after they have been fastened on with an adhesive mixture. Twigs of leguminous trees will often throw off their leaflets in drying. This may, in some measure, be prevented by dipping them in boiling water before drying, or if the leaves are not very rigid, by using strong pressure at first, without the use of hot water. If the specimens have to be frequently handled, the most satisfactory preparation is Lepage’s fish glue, but a mixture of glue and paste, with carbolic acid added, is used in some large herbaria. The disadvantage of using glue, gum, or paste is that it is necessary to have some of the leaves turned over so as to show the under surface of the leaf, and some of the flowers and seeds placed loose in envelopes on the same sheet for purposes of comparison or microscopic examination. Another plan is to use narrow slips of gummed stiff but thin paper, such as very thin parchment paper. These strips are either gummed over the stems, etc., and pinched in round the stem with forceps, or passed through slits made in the sheet and fastened at the back. If the specimens are mounted on cards and protected in glass frames, stitching in the principal parts with gray thread produces a very satisfactory appearance.

HECTOGRAPH PADS AND INKS

The hectograph is a gelatin pad used for duplicating letters, etc., by transfer. The pad should have a tough elastic consistency, similar to that of a printer’s roller. The letter or sketch to be duplicated is written or traced on a sheet of heavy paper with an aniline ink (which has great tinctorial qualities). When dry this is laid, inked side down, on the pad and subjected to moderate and uniform pressure for a few minutes. It may then be removed, when a copy of the original will be found on the pad which has absorbed a large quantity of the ink. The blank sheets are laid one by one on the pad, subjected to moderate pressure over the whole surface with a wooden or rubber roller, or with the hand, and lifted off by taking hold of the corners and stripping them gently with an even movement. If this is done too quickly the composition may be torn. Each succeeding copy thus made will be a little fainter than its predecessor. From 40 to 60 legible copies may be made. When the operation is finished the surface of the pad should be gone over gently with a wet sponge and the remaining ink soaked out. The superfluous moisture is then carefully wiped off, when the pad will be ready for another operation.

The pad or hectograph is essentially a mixture of glue (gelatin) and glycerine. This mixture has the property of remaining soft yet firm for a long time and of absorbing and holding certain coloring matters in such a way as to give them up slowly or in layers, so to speak, on pressure.

Such a pad may be made by melting together 1 part of glue, 2 parts of water and 4 parts of glycerine (all by weight, of course), evaporating some of the water and tempering the mixture with more glue or glycerine if the season or climate require. The mass when of proper consistency, which can be ascertained by cooling a small portion, is poured into a shallow pan and allowed to set. Clean glue must be used or the mixture strained; and air bubbles should be removed by skimming the surface with a piece of card-board or similar appliance.

Variations of this formula have been proposed, some of which are appended:

The Tokacs patent composition, besides the usual ingredients, such as gelatin, glycerine, sugar, and gum, contains soap, and can therefore be washed off much easier for new use. The smoothness of the surface is also increased, without showing more sticking capacity with the first impressions.

Purple.—

Dissolve the violet in the alcohol mixed with the glycerine; dissolve the sugar in the water; mix both solutions.

II.—A good purple hectograph ink is made as follows: Dissolve 1 part methyl violet in 8 parts of water and add 1 part of glycerine. Gently warm the solution for an hour, and add, when cool, ¹/₄ part alcohol. Or take methyl violet, 1 part; water, 7 parts; and glycerine, 2 parts.

Black.—

Blue.—

Dissolve by heat.

Red.—

Green.—