Nitric acid 2 parts
Muriatic acid 1 part

Dissolve grain gold in the aqua regia so as to make a saturated solution. Take a basin and fill it 3 parts full of water; drop the solution of gold into it till it becomes an amber color. Into this solution of gold gradually drop the solution of tin, until the precipitate is complete. Wash the precipitate until the water becomes tasteless, then dry slowly and flux as follows:

Flux No. I.—

Borax 3 parts
Red lead 3 parts
Flint 2 parts

Run down.

Rose Mixture.—

Purple of Cassius 1 ounce
Flux No. 1 6 ounces
Prepared silver 3 dwts.
Flint glass 2 ounces

Grind.

Purple Mixture.—

Purple of Cassius 1 ounce
Flux No. 8 (see page 307) 2 1/2 ounces
Flint glass 2 ounces

Grind.

Ruby.—

Purple mixture 2 1/2 parts
Rose mixture 1 1/2 parts

Grind.

Maroon.—

Rose mixture 1 part
Purple mixture 2 parts

Grind. {307}

Black—Extra quality.—

Red oxide of iron 12 parts
Carbonate of cobalt 12 parts
Oxide of cobalt  1 part
Black flux A (see next formula) 80 parts

Glost fire.

Black Flux A.—

Red lead 3 parts
Calcined borax   1/2 part
Lynn sand 1 part

Run down.

Black No. 2.—

Oxide of copper 1 part
Carbonate of cobalt   1/2 part
Flux No. 8 (see next column) 4 parts

Grind only.

Enamel White.—

Arsenic  2 1/2 parts
Niter  1 1/2 parts
Borax  4 parts
Flint 16 parts
Glass 16 parts
Red lead 32 parts

Glost fire.

Turquoise.—China:

Calcined copper  5 parts
Whiting  5 parts
Phosphate of soda  8 parts
Oxide of zinc 16 parts
Soda crystals  4 parts
Magnesia  2 parts
Red lead  8 parts
Flux T (see next formula) 52 parts

Glost fire.

Flux T.—

Borax 2 parts
Sand 1 part

Run down.

Orange.—

Orange U. G. 1 part
Flux No. 8 (see next column) 3 parts

Grind only.

Blue Green.—

Flint glass  8 parts
Enamel white 25 parts
Borax  8 parts
Red lead 24 parts
Flint  6 parts
Oxide of copper  2 1/2 parts

Glost heat.

Coral Red.—

Chromate of potash 1 part
Sugar of lead 1 1/2 parts

Dissolve in hot water, then dry. Take 1 part of above, 3 parts flux for coral. Grind.

Flux for Coral.—

Red lead 4 1/2 parts
Flint 1 1/2 parts
Flint glass 1 1/2 parts

Run down.

Turquoise.—

Oxide of copper  5 parts
Borax 10 parts
Flint 12 parts
Enamel white 14 parts
Red lead 40 parts

Glost fire.

Flux No. 8.—

Red lead 6 parts
Borax 4 parts
Flint 2 parts

Run down.

Russian Green.—

Malachite green 10 parts
Enamel yellow  5 parts
Majolica white  5 parts
Flux No. 8 (see previous formula)  2 parts

Grind only.

Amber.—

Oxide of uranium 1 part
Coral flux 8 parts

Grind only.

Gordon Green.—

Yellow U. G.  5 parts
Flux No. 8 (see above) 15 parts
Malachite green 10 parts

Grind only.

Celadon.—

Enamel light blue  1 part
Malachite green  1 part
Flux No. 8 (see above) 15 parts

Grind only.

Red Brown.—

Sulphate of iron, fired 1 part
Flux No. 8 (see above) 3 parts

Grind only.

Matt Blue.—

Flux No. 8 (see above) 10 1/2 parts
Oxide of zinc  5 parts
Oxide of cobalt  4 parts

Glost fire, then take

Of above base 1 part
Flux No. 8 (see above) 1 1/8 parts

Grind only. {308}

Preparation Of Enamels.

The base of enamel is glass, colored different shades by the addition of metallic oxides mixed and melted with it.

The oxide of cobalt produces blue; red is obtained by the Cassius process. The purple of Cassius, which is one of the most brilliant of colors, is used almost exclusively in enameling and miniature painting; it is produced by adding to a solution of gold chloride a solution of tin chloride mixed with ferric chloride until a green color appears. The oxide of iron and of copper also produces red, but of a less rich tone; chrome produces green, and manganese violet; black is produced by the mixture of these oxides. Antimony and arsenic also enter into the composition of enamels.

Enamels are of two classes—opaque and transparent. The opacity is caused by the presence of tin.

When the mingled glass and oxides have been put in the crucible, this is placed in the furnace, heated to a temperature of 1,832° or 2,200° F. When the mixture becomes fused, it is stirred with a metal rod. Two or three hours are necessary for the operation. The enamel is then poured into water, which divides it into grains, or formed into cakes or masses, which are left to cool.

For applying enamels to metals, gold, silver, or copper, it is necessary to reduce them to powder, which is effected in an agate mortar with the aid of a pestle of the same material. During the operation the enamel ought to be soaked in water.

For dissolving the impurities which may have been formed during the work, a few drops of nitric acid are poured in immediately afterwards, well mixed, and then got rid of by repeated washing with filtered water. This should be carefully done, stirring the enamel powder with a glass rod, in order to keep the particles in suspension.

The powder is allowed to repose at the bottom of the vessel, after making sure by the taste of the water that it does not contain any trace of acid; only then is the enamel ready for use.

For enameling a jewel or other object it is necessary, first to heat it strongly, in order to burn off any fatty matter, and afterwards to cleanse it in a solution of nitric acid diluted with boiling water. After rinsing with pure water and wiping with a very clean cloth, it is heated slightly and is then ready to receive the enamel.

Enamels are applied with a steel tool in the form of a spatula; water is the vehicle. When the layers of enamel have been applied, the contained water is removed by means of a fine linen rag, pressing slightly on the parts that have received the enamel. The tissue absorbs the water, and nothing remains on the object except the enamel powder. It is placed before the fire to remove every trace of moisture. Thus prepared and put on a fire-clap slab, it is ready for its passage to the heat which fixes the enamel. This operation is conducted in a furnace, with a current of air whose temperature is about 1,832° F. In this operation the fire-chamber ought not to contain any gas.

Enamels are fused at a temperature of 1,292° to 1,472° F. Great attention is needed, for experience alone is the guide, and the duration of the process is quite short. On coming from the fire, the molecules composing the enamel powder have been fused together and present to the eye a vitreous surface covering the metal and adhering to it perfectly. Under the action of the heat the metallic oxides contained in the enamel have met the oxide of the metal and formed one body with it, thus adhering completely.

Jewelers’ Enamels.

Melt together:

Transparent Red.—Cassius gold purple, 65 parts, by weight; crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 4 parts, by weight.

Transparent Blue.—Crystal glass, 34 parts, by weight; borax, 6 parts, by weight; cobalt oxide, 4 parts, by weight.

Dark Blue.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 6 parts, by weight; cobalt oxide, 4 parts, by weight; bone black, 4 parts, by weight; arsenic acid, 2 parts, by weight.

Transparent Green.—Crystal glass, 80 parts, by weight; cupric oxide, 4 parts, by weight; borax, 2 parts, by weight.

Dark Green.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 8 parts, by weight; cupric oxide, 4 parts, by weight; bone black, 4 parts by weight; arsenic acid, 2 parts, by weight.

Black.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 8 parts, by weight; cupric oxide, 4 parts, by weight; ferric oxide, 3 parts, by weight; cobalt oxide, 4 parts, by weight; manganic oxide, 4 parts, by weight.

White.—I.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; stannic oxide, 6 parts, by weight; borax, 6 parts, by weight; arsenic acid, 2 parts, by weight.

II.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; sodium antimonate, 10 parts, by weight. {309}

The finely pulverized colored enamel is applied with a brush and lavender oil on the white enamel already fused in and then only heated until it melts. For certain purposes, the color compositions may also be fused in without a white ground. The glass used for white, No. 2, must be free from lead, otherwise the enamel will be unsightly.

Various Enamels For Precious Metals

: White.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; oxide of tin, 6 parts, by weight; borax, 6 parts, by weight; dioxide of arsenic, 2 parts, by weight, or silicious sand, 50 parts, by weight; powder, consisting of 15 of tin per 100 of lead, 100 parts, by weight; carbonate of potassium, 40 parts, by weight. Fuse the whole with a quantity of manganese. To take away the accidental coloring, pour it into water, and after having pulverized it, melt again 3 or 4 times.

Opaque Blue.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 6 parts, by weight; cobalt oxide, 4 parts, by weight; calcined bone, 4 parts, by weight; dioxide of arsenic, 2 parts, by weight.

Transparent Green.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; blue verditer, 4 parts, by weight; borax, 2 parts, by weight.

Opaque Green.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 8 parts, by weight; blue verditer, 4 parts, by weight; calcined bone, 4 parts, by weight; dioxide of arsenic, 2 parts, by weight.

Black.—I.—Crystal glass, 30 parts, by weight; borax, 8 parts, by weight; oxide of copper, 4 parts, by weight; oxide of iron, 3 parts, by weight; oxide of cobalt, 4 parts, by weight; oxide of manganese, 4 parts, by weight.

II.—Take 1/2 part, by weight, of silver; 2 1/2 parts of copper; 3 1/2 parts of lead, and 2 1/2 parts of muriate of ammonia. Melt together and pour into a crucible with twice as much pulverized sulphur; the crucible is then to be immediately covered that the sulphur may not take fire, and the mixture is to be calcined over a smelting fire until the superfluous sulphur is burned away. The compound is then to be coarsely pounded, and, with a solution of muriate of ammonia, to be formed into a paste which is to be placed upon the article it is designed to enamel. The article must then be held over a spirit lamp till the compound upon it melts and flows. After this it may be smoothed and polished up in safety.

See also Varnishes and Ceramics for other enamel formulas.

ENGRAVING SPOON HANDLES.

After the first monogram has been engraved, rub it with a mixture of 3 parts of beeswax, 3 of tallow, 1 of Canada balsam, and 1 of olive oil. Remove any superfluous quantity, then moisten a piece of paper with the tongue, and press it evenly upon the engraving. Lay a dry piece of paper over it, hold both firmly with thumb and forefinger of left hand, and rub over the surface with a polishing tool of steel or bone. The wet paper is thereby pressed into the engraving, and, with care, a clear impression is made. Remove the paper carefully, place it in the same position on another handle, and a clear impression will be left. The same paper can be used 2 dozen times or more.

ENGRAVINGS: THEIR PRESERVATION

(See also Pictures, Prints, and Lithographs.)

Cleaning Of Copperplate Engravings.

—Wash the sheet on both sides by means of a soft sponge or brush with water to which 40 parts of ammonium carbonate has been added per 1,000 parts of water, and rinse the paper each time with clear water. Next moisten with water in which a little wine vinegar has been admixed, rinse the sheet again with water containing a little chloride of lime, and dry in the air, preferably in the sun. The paper will become perfectly clear without the print being injured.

Restoration Of Old Prints.

—Old engravings, woodcuts, or printed sheets that have turned yellow may be rendered white by first washing carefully in water containing a little hyposulphite of soda, and then dipping for a minute in javelle water. To prepare the latter, put 4 pounds of bicarbonate of soda in a pan, pour over it 1 gallon of boiling water; boil for 15 minutes, then stir in 1 {310} pound of chloride of lime. When cold, pour off the clear liquid, and keep in a jug ready for use.

Surprising results are obtained from the use of hydrogen peroxide in the restoration of old copper or steel engravings or lithographs which have become soiled or yellow, and this without the least injury to the picture. The cellulose which makes the substance of the paper resists the action of ozone, and the black carbon color of these prints is indestructible.

To remove grease or other spots of dirt before bleaching, the engravings are treated with benzine. This is done by laying each one out flat in a shallow vessel and pouring the benzine over it. As benzine evaporates very rapidly, the vessel must be kept well covered, and since its vapors are also exceedingly inflammable, no fire or smoking should be allowed in the room. The picture is left for several hours, then lifted out and dried in the air, and finally brushed several times with a soft brush. The dust which was kept upon the paper by the grease now lies more loosely upon it and can easily be removed by brushing.

In many cases the above treatment is sufficient to improve the appearance of the picture. In the case of very old or badly soiled engravings, it is followed by a second, consisting in the immersion of the picture in a solution of sodium carbonate or a very dilute solution of caustic soda, it being left as before for several hours. After the liquid has been poured off, the picture must be repeatedly rinsed in clear water, to remove any remnant of the soda.

By these means the paper is so far cleansed that only spots of mold or other discolorations remain. These may be removed by hydrogen peroxide, in a fairly strong solution. The commercial peroxide may be diluted with 2 parts water.

The picture is laid in a shallow vessel, the peroxide poured over it, and the vessel placed in a strong light. Very soon the discolorations will pale.

To Reduce Engravings.

—Plaster casts, as we know, can be perceptibly reduced in size by treatment with water or alcohol, and if this is properly done, the reduction is so even that the cast loses nothing of its clear outline, but sometimes even gains in this respect by contraction. If it is desired to reduce an engraved plate, make a plaster cast of it, treat this with water or alcohol, and fill the new cast with some easily fusible metal. This model, which will be considerably smaller than the original, is to be made again in plaster, and again treated, until the desired size is reached. In this way anything of the kind, even medallions, can be reproduced on a smaller scale.

ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS OF FRUITS

Preservation Of Fruit Juices.

—The juices of pulpy fruits, when fresh, contain an active principle known as pectin, which is the coagulating substance that forms the basis of fruit jellies. This it is which prevents the juice of berries and similar fruits from passing through filtering media. Pectin may be precipitated by the addition of alcohol, or by fermentation. The latter is the best, as the addition of alcohol to the fresh juices destroys their aroma and injures the taste. The induction of a light fermentation is far the better method, not only preserving, when carefully conducted, the taste and aroma of the fruit, but yielding far more juice. The fruit is crushed and the juice subsequently carefully but strongly pressed out. Sometimes the crushed fruit is allowed to stand awhile, and to proceed to a light fermentation before pressure is applied; but while a greater amount of juice is thus obtained, the aroma and flavor of the product are very sensibly injured by the procedure.

To the juice thus obtained, add from 1 to 2 per cent of sugar, and put away in a cool place (where the temperature will not rise over 70° or 75° F.). Fermentation soon begins, and will proceed for a few days. As soon as the development of carbonic acid gas ceases, the juice begins to clear itself, from the surface downward, and in a short time all solid matter will lie in a mass at the bottom, leaving the liquid bright and clear. Draw off the latter with a siphon, very carefully, so as not to disturb the sedimentary matter. Fermentation should be induced in closed vessels only, as when conducted in open containers a fungoid growth is apt to form on the surface, sometimes causing putrefactive, and at others, an acetic, fermentation, in either event spoiling the juice for {311} subsequent use, except as a vinegar. The vessels, to effect the end desired, should be filled only two-thirds or three-fourths full, and then carefully closed with a tight-fitting cork, through which is passed a tube of glass, bent at the upper end, the short end of which passes below the surface of a vessel filled with water. As soon as fermentation commences the carbonic acid developed thereby escapes through the tube into the water, whence it passes off into the atmosphere. When bubbles no longer pass off from the tube the operation should be interrupted, and decantation or siphoning, with subsequent filtration, commenced.

By proceeding in this manner all the aroma and flavor of the juices are retained. If it is intended for preservation for any length of time the juice should be heated on a water bath to about 176° F. and poured, while hot, into bottles which have been asepticized by filling with cold water, and placing in a vessel similarly filled, bringing to a boiling temperature, and maintaining at this temperature until the juice, while still hot, is poured into them. If now closed with corks similarly asepticized, or by dipping into hot melted paraffine, the juice may be kept unaltered for years. It is better, however, to make the juice at once into syrup, using the best refined sugar, and boiling in a copper kettle (iron or tin spoil the color), following the usual precautions as to skimming, etc. The syrup should be poured hot into the bottles previously heated as before described.

Ripe fruit may be kept in suitable quantities for a considerable time if covered with a solution of saccharine and left undisturbed, this, too, without deteriorating the taste, color, or aroma of the fruit if packed with care.

Whole fruit may be stored in bulk, by carefully and without fracture filling into convenient-sized jars or bottles, and pouring thereon a solution containing a quarter of an ounce of refined saccharine to the gallon of water, so filling each vessel that the solution is within an inch of the cork when pressed into position. The corks should first of all be immersed in melted paraffine wax, then drained, and allowed to cool. When fruit juices alone are required for storage purposes they are prepared by subjecting the juicy fruits to considerable pressure, by which process the juices are liberated.

The sound ripe fruits are crushed and packed into felt or flannel bags. The fruit should be carefully selected, rotten or impaired portions being carefully removed; this is important, or the whole stock would be spoiled. Several methods are adopted for preserving and clarifying fruit juices.

A common way in which they are kept from fermenting is by the use of salicylic acid or other antiseptic substance, which destroys the fermentative germ, or otherwise retards its action for a considerable time. The use of this acid is seriously objected to by some as injurious to the consumer. About 2 ounces of salicylic acid, previously dissolved in alcohol, to 25 gallons of juice, or 40 grains to the gallon, is generally considered the proper proportion.

Another method adopted is to fill the freshly prepared cold juice into bottles until it reaches the necks, and on the top of this fruit juice a little glycerine is placed.

Juices thus preserved will keep in an unchanged condition in any season. Probably one of the best methods of preserving fruit juices is to add 15 per cent of 95 per cent alcohol. On such an addition, albumen and mucilaginous matter will be deposited. The juice may then be stored in large bottles, jars, or barrels, if securely closed, and when clear, so that further clarification is unnecessary, the juice should finally be decanted or siphoned off.

A method applicable to most berries is as follows:

Take fresh, ripe berries, stem them, and rub through a No. 8 sieve, rejecting all soft and green fruit. Add to each gallon of pulp thus obtained 8 pounds of granulated sugar. Put on the fire and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. Just before removing from the fire, add to each gallon 1 ounce of a saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid, stirring well. Remove the scum, and, while still hot, put into jars and hermetically seal. Put the jars in cold water, and raise them to the boiling point, to prevent them from bursting by sudden expansion on pouring hot fruit into them. Fill the jars entirely full, so as to leave no air space when fruit cools and contracts.

Prevention Of Foaming And Partial Caramelization Of Fruit Juices.

—Fresh fruit juices carry a notable amount of free carbonic acid, which must make its escape on heating the liquid. This will do easily enough if the juice be heated in its natural state, but the addition of the sugar so increases the density of the fluid that the acid finds escape difficult, and often the result is foaming. As to the burning or partial caramelization of {312} the syrup, that is easily accounted for in the greater density of the syrup at the bottom of the kettle—the lighter portion, or that still carrying imprisoned gases, remaining on top until it is freed from them. Constant stirring can prevent this only partially, since it cannot entirely overcome the results of the natural forces in action. The consequence is more or less caramelization. The remedy is very simple. Boil the juices first, adding distilled water to make up for the loss by evaporation, and add the sugar afterwards.

Essences And Extracts:

Almond Extracts.—
I.— Oil of bitter almonds 90 minims
Alcohol, 94 per cent, quantity sufficient to make  8 ounces.
II.— Oil of bitter almonds 80 minims
Alcohol  7 ounces
Distilled water, quantity sufficient to make  8 ounces.
III.— Oil of bitter almonds, deprived of its hydrocyanic acid  1 ounce
Alcohol 15 ounces

In order to remove the hydrocyanic acid in oil of bitter almonds, dissolve 2 parts of ferrous sulphate in 16 parts of distilled water; in another vessel slake 1 part freshly burned quicklime in a similar quantity of distilled water, and to this add the solution of iron sulphate, after the same has cooled. In the mixture put 4 parts of almond oil, and thoroughly agitate the liquids together. Repeat the agitation at an interval of 5 minutes, then filter. Put the filtrate into a glass retort and distil until all the oil has passed over. Remove any water that may be with the distillate by decantation, or otherwise.

Apricot Extract.—
Linalyl formate 90 minims
Glycerine  1 ounce
Amyl valerianate  4 drachms
Alcohol 11 ounces
Fluid extract orris  1 ounce
Water, quantity sufficient to make  1 pint.
Apple Extract.—
Glycerine  1 ounce
Amyl valerianate  4 drachms
Linalyl formate 45 minims
Fluid extract orris  1 ounce
Alcohol 11 ounces
Water, quantity sufficient to make  1 pint.
Apple Syrup.
—I.—Peel and remove the cores of, say, 5 parts of apples and cut them into little bits. Put in a suitable vessel and pour over them a mixture of 5 parts each of common white wine and water, and let macerate together for 5 days at from 125° to 135° F., the vessel being closed during the time. Then strain the liquid through a linen cloth, using gentle pressure on the solid matter, forcing as much as possible of it through the cloth. Boil 30 parts of sugar and 20 parts of water together, and when boiling add to the resulting syrup the apple juice; let it boil up for a minute or so, and strain through flannel.

II.—Good ripe apples are cut into small pieces and pounded to a pulp in a mortar of any metal with the exception of iron. To 1 part of this pulp add 11 parts of water. Allow this to stand for 12 hours. Colate. To 11 parts of the colature add 1 part of sugar. Boil for 5 minutes. Skim carefully. Bottle slightly warm. A small quantity of tartaric acid may be added to heighten the flavor.

Banana Syrup.
—Cut the fruit in slices and place in a jar; sprinkle with sugar and cover the jar, which is then enveloped in straw and placed in cold water and the latter is heated to the boiling point. The jar is then removed, allowed to cool, and the juice poured into bottles.
Cinnamon Essence.—
Oil of cinnamon  2 drachms
Cinnamon, powdered  4 ounces
Alcohol, deodorized 16 ounces
Distilled water 16 ounces

Dissolve the oil in the alcohol, and add the water, an ounce at a time, with agitation after each addition. Moisten the cinnamon with a little of the water, add, and agitate. Cork tightly, and put in a warm place, to macerate, 2 weeks, giving the flask a vigorous agitation several times a day. Finally, filter through paper, and keep in small vials, tightly stoppered.

Chocolate Extract.
—Probably the best form of chocolate extract is made as follows:
Curaçao cocoa   400 parts
Vanilla, chopped fine     1 part
Alcohol of 55 per cent 2,000 parts

Mix and macerate together for 15 days, express and set aside. Pack the residue in a percolator, and pour on boiling water (soft) and percolate until 575 parts pass through. Put the percolate {313} in a flask, cork, and let cool, then mix with the alcoholic extract. If it be desired to make a syrup, before mixing the extract, add 1,000 parts of sugar to the percolate, and with gentle heat dissolve the sugar. Mix the syrup thus formed, after cooling, with the alcoholic extract.

Coffee Extracts.
—In making coffee extract, care must be used to avoid extracting the bitter properties of the coffee, as this is where most manufacturers fail; in trying to get a strong extract they succeed only in getting a bitter one.

I.—The coffee should be a mixture of Mocha, 3 parts; Old Government Java, 5 parts; or, as some prefer, Mocha, 3 parts; Java, 3 parts; best old Rio, 2 parts.

Coffee, freshly roasted and pulverized 100 parts
Boiling water 600 parts

Pack the coffee, moistened with boiling water, in a strainer, or dipper, placed in a vessel standing in the water bath at boiling point, and let 400 parts of the water, in active ebullition, pass slowly through it. Draw off the liquid as quickly as possible (best into a vessel previously heated by boiling water to nearly the boiling point), add 200 parts of boiling water, and pass the whole again through the strainer (the container remaining in the water bath). Remove from the bath; add 540 parts of sugar, and dissolve by agitation while still hot.

II.—The following is based upon Liebig’s method of making coffee for table use: Moisten 50 parts of coffee, freshly roasted and powdered as before, with cold water, and add to it a little egg albumen and stir in. Pour over the whole 400 parts of boiling water, set on the fire, and let come to a boil. As the liquid foams, stir down with a spoon, but let it come to a boil for a moment; add a little cold water, cover tightly, and set aside in a warm place. Exhaust the residual coffee with 300 parts of boiling water, as detailed in the first process, and to the filtrate add carefully the now clarified extract, up to 600 parts, by adding boiling water. Proceed to make the syrup by the method detailed above.

III.—To make a more permanent extract of coffee saturate 600 parts of freshly roasted coffee, ground moderately fine, with any desired quantity of a 1 in 3 mixture of alcohol of 94 per cent and distilled water, and pack in a percolator. Close the faucet and let stand, closely stoppered, for 24 hours; then pour on the residue of the alcohol and water, and let run through, adding sufficient water, at the last, so as to compensate for what boils away. Set this aside, and continue the percolation, with boiling water, until the powder is exhausted. Evaporate the resultant percolate down to the consistency of the alcoholic extract, and mix the two. If desired, the result may be evaporated down to condition of an extract. To dissolve, add boiling water.

IV.—This essence is expressly adapted to boiling purposes. Take 3 pounds of good coffee, 4 ounces of granulated sugar, 4 pints of pure alcohol, 6 pints of hot water. Have coffee fresh roasted and of a medium grinding. Pack in a glass percolator, and percolate it with a menstruum, consisting of the water and the alcohol. Repeat the percolation until the desired strength is obtained, or the coffee exhausted; then add the sugar and filter.

V.— Mocha coffee 1 pound
Java coffee 1 pound
Glycerine, quantity sufficient.
Water, quantity sufficient.

Grind the two coffees fine, and mix, then moisten with a mixture of 1 part of glycerine and 3 parts of water, and pack in a glass percolator, and percolate slowly until 30 ounces of the percolate is obtained. It is a more complete extraction if the menstruum be poured on in the condition of boiling, and it be allowed to macerate for 20 minutes before percolation commences. Coffee extract should, by preference, be made in a glass percolator. A glycerine menstruum is preferable to one of dilute alcohol, giving a finer product.

VI.— Coffee, Java, roasted, No. 20 powder 4 ounces
Glycerine, pure 4 fluidounces
Water, quantity sufficient.
Boiling, quantity sufficient.

Moisten the coffee slightly with water, and pack firmly in a tin percolator; pour on water, gradually, until 4 fluidounces are obtained, then set aside. Place the coffee in a clean tin vessel, with 8 fluidounces of water, and boil for 5 minutes. Again place the coffee in the percolator with the water (infusion), and when the liquid has passed, or drained off, pack the grounds firmly, and pour on boiling water until 8 fluidounces are obtained. When cold, mix the first product, and add the glycerine, bottle, and cork well.

The excellence of this extract of coffee, from the manner of its preparation, will be found by experience to be incomparably superior to that made by the {314} formulas usually recommended, the reason being apparent in the first step in the process.

Coffee Essence.—
Best ground Mocha coffee 4 pounds
Best ground chicory 2 pounds

Boil with 2 gallons of water in a closed vessel and when cold, strain, press, and make up to 2 gallons, and to this add