Fig. 3
Melting And Melting Furnaces.
—The arrangement of the melting furnace must be such as to protect the whole of the crucible from chills. The usual pit furnaces, with slight modifications, are suitable for this purpose. The crucible shown at b in Fig. 3 is of the type already described; at the top it is fitted with a lid, a, hinged at the middle, and at the bottom it is pierced by a 2-inch conical hole.† The hole, while melting is going on, is plugged up with a specially prepared stopper. The crucible stands on a tubular fireproof support, c, which allows the molten mass to be easily run off into a tub of water, which is placed in the chamber, d. The fuel is thrown in from the top, and the supply must be kept uniform. From 4 to 6 of these furnaces are connected with the same chimney; but before passing to the chimney the hot gases are in some cases used for heating purposes in connection with the drying stove. The plug used may be either a permanent iron one coated with a very hard enamel or made from a composition of quartz powder and water. An uncovered iron plug would be unsuitable owing to the action of the iron on the ingredients of the mixing.
† Two inches for gray, one inch for glaze; the hole should he wider at the top.

In some cases only a very small hole is made in the crucible and no stopper used, the fusion of the mixing automatically closing up the hole. In some other factories no hole is made in the crucible, and when fusion is complete the crucible is removed and the mixing poured out. The two latter systems are bad; in the first there is always some waste of material through leakage, and in the latter the operation of removing the crucible is clumsy and difficult, while the exposure to the colder atmosphere frequently causes rupture.

The plug used should be connected with a rod, as shown in Fig. 3, which passes through a slot in one-half of the hinged lid, a. When fusion is complete this half is turned over, and the plug pulled up, thus allowing the molten mass to fall through into the vat of water placed underneath. The mixing in the crucibles, as it becomes molten, settles down, and more material can then be added until the crucible is nearly full. If the mixing is correctly composed, and has been thoroughly fused, it should flow freely from the crucible when the plug is withdrawn. Fusing generally requires only to be done once, but for fine enamels the operation may be repeated. The running off into the water is necessary in order to make the mass brittle and easy to grind. If this was not done it would again form into hard flinty lumps and require much time and labor to reduce to a powder.

A careful record should be kept of the loss in weight of the dried material at each operation. The weighings should be made at the following points: (1) Before and after melting; (2) after crushing.

The time required for melting varies greatly, but from 6 to 9 hours may be considered as the extreme limits. Gas is much used for raising the necessary heat for melting. The generator may be {299} placed in any convenient position, but a very good system is to have it in the center of a battery of muffles, any or all of which can be brought into use. When quartz stoppers are used there is considerable trouble in their preparation, and as each new batch of material requires a fresh stopper, wrought-iron stoppers have been introduced in many factories. These are coated with an enamel requiring a much higher temperature of fusion than the fundamental substance, and this coating prevents the iron having any injurious action on the frit.

Fusing.
—For fusing the enamel muffle furnaces are used; these furnaces are simple in construction, being designed specially for: (1) Minimum consumption of fuel; (2) maximum heat in the muffle; (3) protection of the inside of the muffle from dust, draughts, etc.

The muffle furnaces may be of any size, but in order to economize fuel, it is obvious that they should be no larger than is necessary for the class and quantity of work being turned out. For sign-plate enameling the interior of the muffle may be as much as 10 feet by 5 feet wide by 3 feet in height, but a furnace of this kind would be absolutely ruinous for a concern where only about a dozen small hollow-ware articles were enameled at a time. The best system is to have 2 or 3 muffle furnaces of different dimensions, as in this way all or any one of them can be brought into use as the character and number of the articles may require. The temperature throughout the muffle is not uniform, the end next to the furnace being hotter than that next to the door. In plate enameling it is therefore necessary that the plates should be turned so that uniform fusion of the enamel may take place. In the working of hollow ware the articles should be first placed at the front of the muffle and then moved toward the back. The front of the furnace is closed in by a vertically sliding door or lid, and in this an aperture is cut, through which the process of fusion can be inspected. All openings to the muffle should be used as little as possible; otherwise cold air is admitted, and the inside temperature rapidly lowered.

Fig. 4

Fig. 4 shows a simple arrangement of a muffle furnace; a is the furnace itself, with an opening, e, through which the fuel is fed; b is the muffle; c shows the firebars, and d the cinder box; f is a rest or plate on which is placed the articles to be enameled. The plate or petits on which the articles rest while being put into the muffle should be almost red hot, as the whole heat of the muffle in this way begins to act immediately on the enamel coating. The articles inside the muffles can be moved about when necessary, either by a hook or a pair of tongs, but care must be taken that every part of the vessel or plate is submitted to the same amount of heat.

Fig. 5

In Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are given drawings of an arrangement of furnaces, etc., connected with an enameling factory at {300} present working. The stoves shown in Fig. 5 are drying stoves fired from the end by charcoal, and having a temperature of about 160° F. Fig. 6 shows the arrangement of the flues for the passage of the gases round the fusing oven. The section through the line A B, Fig. 5, as shown in Fig. 7, and the section through the frit kilns, as shown in Fig. 8, are sufficiently explanatory. The frit kilns and the fusing oven flues both lead to the brick chimney, but the stoves are connected to a wrought-iron chimney shown in Fig. 6. Another arrangement would have been to so arrange the stoves that the gases from the frit kilns could have been utilized for heating purposes.

Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fuel.
—The consumption of fuel in an enameling factory is the most serious item of the expenditure. Ill-constructed or badly proportioned stoves may represent any loss of coal from a quarter to one ton per day, and as great and uniform temperatures must be maintained, fuel of low quality and price is not desirable. In the melting stoves either arranged as tank or crucible furnaces, the character of the coal must not be neglected, as light dust, iron oxide, or injurious gases will enter into the crucibles through any opening, especially if the draught is not very great. Almost any of the various kinds of fuel may be used, provided that the system of combustion is specially arranged for in the construction of the furnaces. Charcoal is one of the best fuels available, its calorific value being so great; but its cost is in some places almost prohibitive. Wood burns too quickly, and is therefore expensive, and necessitates incessant firing.

For practical purposes we are thus often left to a selection of some type of coal. A coal with comparatively little heating power at a cheap price will be found more expensive in the end than one costing more, but capable of more rapid combustion and possessing more heat yielding gases. Cheap and hard coals give the fireman an amount of labor which is excessive. The proper maintenance of the temperature of the stove is almost impossible. Anthracite is excellent in every way, as it consists of nearly pure carbon, giving off a high degree of heat without smoke. Its use, of course, necessitates the use of a blower, but to this there can be no objection. Any coal which will burn freely and clean, giving off no excessive smoke, and capable of almost complete combustion, will give satisfaction in enameling; but it must not be forgotten that the consumption of fuel is so large that both price and quality must be carefully considered. Experimental tests must be made from time to time. A cheap, common coal will never give good results, and a good expensive coal will make the cost of manufacture so great that the prices of the enameled articles will render them unsalable. Any ordinary small factory will use from 2 to 4 tons per day of coal, and it will thus be seen that the financial success of a concern lies to a very great extent at the mouth of the furnace. Coke is a good medium for obtaining the necessary heat required in enameling if it can be got at a reasonable price. With a good draught a uniform temperature can be easily kept up, and the use of this by-product is, therefore, to be recommended. {301}

With good coal and a furnace constructed to utilize the heat given off to the fullest extent, there may still be unnecessary waste. The arrangement of the bars should only be made by those who fully understand the character of the coal and the objects in view. The fireman in charge should be thoroughly experienced and reliable, as much waste is frequently traced to imperfect feeding of the fuel.

Each charge of articles should be as large as possible, as fusing will take place equally as well on many articles as on few. The charges should follow one another as rapidly as can be conveniently carried out; and where this is not done there is a lack of organization which should be immediately remedied.

Fig. 9
Mills.
—Any hard substances must first be broken up and pounded in a pounding or stamping mill, or in any other suitable manner, thus reducing the lumps to a granular condition. When this has been done, the coarse is separated from the fine parts and the former again operated on. The next process is roller grinding for reducing the hard fritted granular particles to a fine powder. These mills vary in construction, but a satisfactory type is shown in Fig. 9. Motion is conveyed by a belt to the driving pulley, and this is transmitted from the pinion to the large bevel, which is connected by a shaft to the ground plate. As this revolves the material causes the mill wheels to revolve, and in this way the material is reduced to a powder. The rollers are of reduced diameter on the inner side to prevent slippage, and when all the parts are made of iron, the metal must be close grained and of very hard structure, so as to reduce the amount removed by wear to a minimum. When the materials are ground wet, the powder should be carefully protected from dust and thoroughly dried before passing to the next operation.
Fig. 10

The glazing or enamel mills are shown in Fig. 10. These mills consist of a strong iron frame securely bolted to a stone foundation. In the sketch shown the framing carries 2 mills, but 3 or 4 can be arranged for. A common arrangement for small factories consists of 2 large mills, and 1 smaller mill, driven from the same shaft. One of the mills is used for foundation or gray mixings, the second for white, and the smallest one for colored mixings. In these mills it is essential that the construction is such as to prevent any iron fitting coming into contact with the mixing, for, as has already been explained, the iron will cause discoloration. The ground plate is composed of quartz and is immovable. It is surrounded by a wooden casing—as shown at a—and bound together by iron hoops. The millstones are heavy, rectangular blocks of quartz, called “French burr stone,” and into the center the spindle, b, is led. The powdered material mixed with about three times its bulk of water is poured into the vats, a, and the grinding stones are then set in motion. When a condition ready for enameling has been reached the mixture is run off through the valves, c. Each mill can be thrown out of gear when required, by means of a clutch box, without interfering with the working of the others. The grinding stones wear rapidly and require to be refaced from time to time. To avoid stoppage of the work, therefore, it is advisable to always have a spare set in readiness to replace those removed for refacing. The composition of the stones should not be neglected, for, in many cases, faults in the enamel have been traced to the wearing away of stones containing earthy or metallic matter. {302}

Enamel Mixing.
—All constituents of which an enamel glaze is composed must be intimately mixed together. This can only be done by reducing each to a fine powder and thoroughly stirring them up together. This part of the work is often carried out in a very superficial manner, one material showing much larger lumps than another. Under circumstances such as these it is absurd to imagine that in fusion equal distribution will take place. What really happens is that some parts of the mass are insufficiently supplied with certain properties while others have too much. A mixture of this class can produce only unsatisfactory results in every respect, for the variations referred to will produce variations in the completeness of fusion in the viscous character of the mass, and in the color.

The mixing can be done by thoroughly stirring the various ingredients together, and a much better and cheaper system is mixing in rotating barrels or churns. These are mounted on axles which rest in bearings, one axle being long enough to carry a pulley. From the driving shaft a belt is led to the cask, which then rotates at a speed of from 40 to 60 revolutions per minute, and in about a quarter of an hour the operation is complete. The cask should not exceed the 5-gallon size, and should at no time be more than two-thirds full. Two casks of this kind give better results than one twice the size. The materials are shot into the cask in their correct proportions through a large bung hole, which is then closed over by a close-fitting lid.

Mixings.
—For gray or fundamental coatings:
I.— Almost any kind of glass 49 per cent
Oxide of lead 47 per cent
Fused borax  4 per cent
II.— Glass (any kind) 61 per cent
Red lead 22 per cent
Borax 16 per cent
Niter  1 per cent
III.— Quartz 67.5 per cent
Borax 29.5 per cent
Soda (enameling)  3 per cent

The above is specially adapted for iron pipes.

IV.— Frit of silica powder 60 per cent
Borax 33 per cent
White lead  7 per cent

Fused and then ground with—

V.— Silica 65 per cent
Borax 14 per cent
Oxide of lead  4 per cent
Clay 15 per cent
Magnesia  2 per cent

No. V gives a fair average of several mixings which are in use, but it can be varied slightly to suit different conditions of work.

Defects In The Gray Or Ground Coating.
—Chipping is the most disastrous. This may be prevented by the addition of some bitter salt, say from 3 to 4 per cent of the weight of the frit.

The addition of magnesia when it has been omitted from the frit may also act as a preventive, but it should only be added in very small quantities, not exceeding 2.5 per cent, otherwise the temperature required for fusion will be very great.

Coating And Fusion.
—Difficulties of either may generally be done away with by reducing the magnesia used in the frit to a minimum.

A soft surface is always the outcome of a mixing which can be fused at a low temperature. It is due to too much lead or an insufficiency of clay or silica powder.

A hard surface is due to the quantity of lead in the mixing being too small. Increase the quantity and introduce potash, say about 2.5 per cent.

The gray or fundamental mixing should be kept together in a condition only just sufficiently liquid to allow of being poured out. When required to be applied to the plate, the water necessary to lower it to the consistency of thick cream can then be added gradually, energetic stirring of the mass taking place simultaneously in order to obtain uniform distribution.

The time required for fusion may vary from 15 minutes to 25 minutes, but should never exceed the latter. If it does, it shows that the mixing is too viscous, and the remedy would be the addition and thorough intermixture of calcined borax or boracic acid. Should this fail, then remelting or a new frit is necessary.

A highly glazed surface on leaving the muffle shows that the composition is too fluid and requires the addition of clay, glass, silica powder or other substance to increase the viscosity.

As has been already explained, the glaze is much more important than the fundamental coating. Discoloration or slight flaws which could be tolerated in the latter would be fatal to the former. {303}

In glazes, oxide of lead need not be used. It should never be used in a coating for vessels which are to contain acids or be used as cooking utensils. It may be used in sign-tablet production.

For pipes the following glaze gives good results:

I.— Feldspar 33 per cent
Borax 22.5 per cent
Quartz 16.5 per cent
Oxide of tin 15 per cent
Soda  8 per cent
Fluorspar  3.75 per cent
Saltpeter  2.25 per cent

For sign tablets the following gives fair results, although some of the succeeding ones are in more general use:

II.— Cullet 20 per cent
Powdered flint 15 per cent
Lead 52 per cent
Soda  4.5 per cent
Arsenic  4.5 per cent
Niter  4 per cent
III.— Frit of silica powder 30 per cent
Oxide of tin 18 per cent
Borax 17 per cent
Soda  8.6 per cent
Niter  7.5 per cent
White lead  5.5 per cent
Carbonate of ammonia  5.5 per cent
Magnesia  4 per cent
Silica powder  4 per cent

The following are useful for culinary utensils, as they do not contain lead:

IV.— Frit of silica powder 26 per cent
Oxide of tin 21 per cent
Borax 20 per cent
Soda 10.25 per cent
Niter  7 per cent
Carbonate of ammonia  5 per cent
Magnesia  3.25 per cent
This should be ground up with the following:
Silica powder  4.25 per cent
Oxide of tin  2.25 per cent
Soda  0.5 per cent
Magnesia  0.5 per cent
V.— Feldspar 41 per cent
Borax 35 per cent
Oxide of tin 17 per cent
Niter  7 per cent
VI.— Borax 30 per cent
Feldspar 22 per cent
Silicate powder 17.5 per cent
Oxide of tin 15 per cent
Soda 13.5 per cent
Niter  2 per cent

Borax will assist fusion. Quartz mixings require more soda than feldspar mixings.

VII.— Borax 28 per cent
Oxide of tin 19.5 per cent
Cullet (powdered white glass) 18 per cent
Silica powder 17.5 per cent
Niter  9.5 per cent
Magnesia  5 per cent
Clay  2.5 per cent
VIII.— Borax 26.75 per cent
Cullet 19 per cent
Silica powder 18.5 per cent
Oxide of tin 19 per cent
Niter  9.25 per cent
Magnesia  4.5 per cent
Soda  3 per cent

To No. VII must be added—while being ground—the following percentages of the weight of the frit:

Silica powder 18 per cent
Borax  9 per cent
Magnesia  5.25 per cent
Boracic acid  1.5 per cent

To No. VIII should be similarly added the following percentages of the frit:

Silica powder 1.75 per cent
Magnesia 1.75 per cent
Soda 1 per cent

This mixing is one which is used in the production of some of the best types of hollow ware for culinary purposes. The glaze should be kept in tubs mixed with water until used, and it should be carefully protected from dust.

Defects In The Glaze Or White.
—A bad white may be due to its being insufficiently opaque. More oxide of tin is required. Cracks may be prevented by the addition of carbonate of ammonia. Insufficient luster can be avoided by adding to the quantity of soda and reducing the borax. If the gray shows through the white it proves that the temperature of fusion is too high or the viscosity of the mixing is too great. If the coating is not uniformly spread it may be due to the glaze being too thin; add magnesia. If the glaze separates from the gray add some bitter salt. Viscosity will be increased by reducing the quantity of borax. Immunity against chemical reaction is procured by increasing the quantity of borax. An improved luster will be obtained by adding native carbonate of soda. The greater the quantity of silicic acid the greater must be the temperature for fusion. To reduce the temperature add borax. Clay will increase the difficulty {304} of fusion. Oxide of lead will make a frit more easily fusible. A purer white can be obtained by adding a small quantity of smalt.
Water.
—The character of the water used in the mixing of enamels is too frequently taken for granted, for unsuitable water may render a mixing almost entirely useless. Clean water, and with little or no sulphur present, is essential. For very fine enamels it is advisable to use carefully filtered water which has shown, after analysis, that it is free from any matter which is injurious to any of the enamel constituents.
How To Tell The Character Of Enamel.
—In the case of sign tablets the characteristics looked to are appearance and the adherence of the coatings to the iron. For the latter the tests are simple. The plate if slightly bent should not crack the coating. An enamel plate placed in boiling water for some time and then plunged into very cold water should not show any cracks, however small, even after repeated treatment of this kind.

Culinary utensils, and those to hold chemicals, should not only look well, but should be capable of resisting the action of acids. Lead should never enter into the composition of enamels of this class, as they then become easily acted upon, and in the case of chipping present a menace to health. The presence of lead is easily detected. Destroy the outside coating of the enamel at some spot by the application of strong nitric acid. Wash the part and apply a drop of ammonium sulphide. If lead is present, the part will become almost black, but remains unchanged in color if it is absent.

Another simple test is to switch up an egg in a vessel and allow it to stand for about 24 hours. When poured out and rinsed with water a dark stain will remain if lead is present in the enamel. To test the power of chemical resistance is equally simple. Boil diluted vinegar in the vessel for several minutes, and if a sediment is formed and the luster and smoothness of the glaze destroyed or partially destroyed, it follows that it is incapable of resisting the attacks of acids for any length of time. There are several other tests adopted, but those given present little difficulty in carrying out, and give reliable results.

Wasters And Seconds: Repairing Old Articles.
—In all enameling there must be certain articles turned out which are defective, but the percentage should never be very great. The causes which most frequently tend to the production of wasters are new mixings and a temperature of fusion which is either too high or too low. There are two ways of disposing of defective articles, viz.: (1) Chipping off the bad spots, patching them up and selling them as “seconds”; (2) throwing the articles into the waste heap. The best firms adopt the latter course, because the recoating and firing of defective parts practically means a repetition of the whole process, thus adding greatly to the cost, while the selling price is reduced. Overheating in fusion is generally shown by blisters or by the enamel being too thin in various places. Chipping may be also due to this cause, the excessive heat having practically fused the fundamental coating.

At this stage the defects may be remedied by breaking off the faulty parts, patching them up, and then recoating the whole. With sign tablets there is no objection to doing so, but with hollow ware the fact remains that the article is faulty, no matter how carefully defects may be hidden. As white is the most general coating used, and shows up the defects more than the colored coatings, the greatest care is necessary at every stage of the manufacture. While glowing on the article, it should appear uniformly yellow, but on cooling it should revert to a pure white shade. On examining different makes of white coated articles, it will be found that some are more opaque than others. The former are less durable than the latter, because they contain a large percentage of oxide of tin, which reduces the elasticity. To ensure hardness the mixing must be very liquid, and this cannot be arrived at when a large quantity of oxide of tin is introduced.

Old utensils which have become broken or chipped can be repaired, although, except in the case of large articles, this is rarely done. The operations necessary are: (1) The defective parts chipped off; (2) submitted to a red heat for a few moments; (3) coated with gray on the exposed iron; (4) fused; (5) coated with the glaze on the gray; (6) fused.

To Repair Enameled Signs.—
Copal 5 parts
Damar 5 parts
Venice turpentine 4 parts

Powder the rosins, mix with the turpentine and add enough alcohol to form a thick liquid. To this add finely powdered zinc white in sufficient quantity to yield a plastic mass. Coloring {305} matter may, of course, be added if desired.

The mass after application is polished when it has become sufficiently hard.

Enamel For Copper Cooking Vessels.
—White fluorspar is ground to a fine powder and strongly calcined with an equal volume of unburnt gypsum, at a light glowing heat, stirring diligently. Grind the mixture to a paste with water, paint the vessel with it, using a brush, or pour in the paste like a glaze and dry the same. Increase the heat gradually and bring the vessels with the glass substance quickly into strong heat, under a suitable covering or a mantle of burnt clay. The substance soon forms a white opaque enamel, which adheres firmly to the copper. It can stand pretty hard knocks without cracking, is adapted for cooking purposes and not attacked by acid matters. If the glassy substance is desired to cling well and firmly to the copper, a sudden and severe heat must be observed.
To Pickle Black Iron-plate Scrap Before Enameling.
—The black iron-plate scraps are first dipped clean in a mixture of about 1 part of sulphuric acid and 20 to 22 parts of water heated to 30° to 40° C. (86° to 104° F.), and sharp quartz sand is then used for scouring. They are then plunged for a few seconds in boiling water, taken out, and allowed to dry. Rinsing with cold water and allowing to dry thus may cause rust. The grains of quartz cut grooves in the fibers of the iron; this helps the grounding to adhere well. With many kinds of plate it is advisable to anneal after pickling, shutting off the air; by this means the plates will be thoroughly clean and free from oxidation. Much practice is required.—The Engineer.

Enameled Iron Recipes.

The first thing is to produce a flux to fuse at a moderate heat, which, by flowing upon the plate, forms a uniform surface for the white or colored enamels to work upon.

Flux for Enameled Iron.—

White lead 10 parts
Ball clay  1 part
Flint glass 10 parts
Whiting  1 part

The plates may then be coated with any of the following mixtures, which may either be spread on as a powder with a little gum, as in the case of the flux, or the colors may be mixed with oil and the plates dipped therein when coated; the plate requires heating sufficiently to run the enamels bright.

Soft Enamels for Iron, White.—

Flint glass 16 parts
Oxide of tin  1 1/2 parts
Niter  1 1/2 parts
Red lead  4 parts
Flint or china clay  1 part

Black.—

Red oxide of iron 1 1/4 parts
Carbonate of cobalt 1 1/4 parts
Red lead 6 parts
Borax 2 parts
Lynn sand 2 parts

Yellow Coral.—

Chromate of lead 1 part
Red lead 2 3/4 parts
Flint 1 part
Borax   1/4 part

Canary.—

Oxide of uranium 1 part
Red lead 4 1/2 parts
Flint 1 1/2 parts
Flint glass 1 part

Turquoise.—

Red lead 40 parts
Flint glass 12 parts
Borax 16 parts
Flint 12 parts
Enamel white 14 parts
Oxide of copper  7 parts
Oxide of cobalt    1/4 part

Red Brown.—

Calcined sulphate of iron 1 part
Flux No. 8 (see page 307) 3 parts

Mazarine Blue.—

Oxide of cobalt 10 parts
Paris white  9 parts
Sulphate barytes  1 part

Fire the above at an intense heat and for use take

Above stain 1 part
Flux No. 8 (see page 307) 3 parts

Sky Blue.—

Flint glass 30 parts
White lead 10 parts
Pearlash  2 parts
Common salt  2 parts
Oxide of cobalt  4 parts
Enamel, white  4 parts

Chrome Green.—

Borax 10 parts
Oxide of chrome  4 1/2 parts
White lead  9 parts
Flint glass  9 parts
Oxide of cobalt  2 parts
Oxide of tin  1 part

Coral Red.—

Bichromate potash 1 part
Red lead 4 1/2 parts
Sugar of lead 1 1/2 parts
Flint 1 1/2 parts
Flint glass 1 part

Enamel White.—Soft:

Red lead 80 parts
Opal glass 50 parts
Flint 50 parts
Borax 24 parts
Arsenic  8 parts
Niter  6 parts

Enamel White.—

Red lead 10 parts
Flint  6 parts
Boracic acid  4 parts
Niter  1 part
Soda crystals  1 part

Where the enameled work is intended to be exposed to the weather do not use flux No. 8, but substitute the following:

White lead 1 part
Ground flint glass 1 part

All the enamels should, after being mixed, be melted in crucibles, poured out when in liquid, and powdered or ground for use.

Fusible Enamel Colors.

The following colors are fusible by heat, and are all suitable for the decoration of china and glass. In the following collection of recipes certain terms are employed which may not be quite understood by persons who are not connected with either the glass or porcelain industries, such as “glost fire” and “run down,” and in such cases reference must be made to the following definitions:

“Run down.” Sufficient heat to melt into liquid.

“Glost fire.” Ordinary glaze heat.

“Grind only.” No calcination required.

“Hard fire.” Highest heat attainable.

“Frit.” The ingredients partly composing a glaze, which require calcination.

“Stone.” Always best Cornwall stone.

“Paris white.” Superior quality of whiting.

“Parts.” Always so many parts by weight, unless otherwise stated.

“D. L. Zinc.” Particular brand not essential. Any good quality oxide of zinc will do.

Ruby and Maroon.—Preparation of silver:

Nitric acid 1 ounce
Water 1 ounce

Dissolve the silver till saturated, then put a plate of copper in the solution to precipitate the silver in a metallic state. Wash well with water to remove the acetate of copper.

Flux for Above.—Six dwts. white lead to 1 ounce prepared silver.

Tin Solution.—Put the acid (aqua regia) in a bottle, add tin in small quantities until it becomes a dark-red color; let it stand about 4 days before use. When the acid becomes saturated it will turn red at the bottom of the bottle, then shake it up and add more tin; let it stand and it will become clear.

Aqua Regia.—