| II.— |
Water |
40 gallons |
| Powdered black rosin |
56 pounds |
| Sulphuric acid |
2 1/2 gallons |
| Creosote |
10 gallons |
| Melted pitch |
24 pounds |
| Pearlash boiled in 10 gallons water |
56 pounds |
Boil water and dissolve rosin and acid;
then add creosote and boil well again;
add pitch and run in pearlash solution
(boiling); then shut off steam.
III. (White).—Water, 40 gallons; turpentine, 2 gallons;
ammonia, 1/2 gallon; carbolic
crystals, 14 pounds; caustic lyes, 2 gallons; white sugar,
60 pounds, dissolved in 40 pounds water.
Heat water to boiling, and add first turpentine, next
ammonia, and then carbolic crystals. Stir well until
thoroughly dissolved, and add lyes and sugar solution.
Disinfecting Powders.
| I.— |
Sulphate of iron |
100 parts |
| Sulphate of zinc |
50 parts |
| Oak bark, powder |
40 parts |
| Tar |
5 parts |
| Oil |
5 parts |
II.—Mix together chloride of lime and
burnt umber, add water, and set on plates. {263}
Blue Sanitary Powder.—
| Powdered alum |
2 pounds |
| Oil of eucalyptus |
12 ounces |
| Rectified spirits of tar |
6 ounces |
| Rectified spirit of turpentine |
2 ounces |
| Ultramarine blue (common) |
3/4 ounces |
| Common salt |
14 pounds |
Mix alum with about 3 pounds of salt
in a large mortar, gradually add oil of
eucalyptus and spirits, then put in the
ultramarine blue, and lastly remaining
salt, mixing all well, and passing through
a sieve.
Carbolic Powder.
(Strong).—Slaked
lime in fine powder, 1 cwt.; carbolic acid,
75 per cent, 2 gallons.Color with aniline dye and then pass
through a moderately fine sieve and put
into tins or casks and keep air-tight.
Pink Carbolized Sanitary Powder.—
| Powdered alum |
6 ounces |
| Powdered green copperas |
5 pounds |
| Powdered red lead |
5 pounds |
| Calvert’s No. 5 carbolic acid |
12 1/2 pounds |
| Spirit of turpentine |
1 1/2 pounds |
| Calais sand |
10 pounds |
| Slaked lime |
60 pounds |
Mix carbolic acid with turpentine and
sand, then add the other ingredients,
lastly the slaked lime and, after mixing,
pass through a sieve. It is advisable to
use lime that has been slaked some time.
Cuspidor Powder.
—Peat rubble is
ground to a powder, and 100 parts put
into a mixing machine, which can be
hermetically sealed. Then 15 parts of
blue vitriol are added either very finely
pulverized or in a saturated aqueous solution.
Next are added 2 parts of formalin,
and lastly 1 part of ground cloves,
orange peel, or a sufficient quantity of
some volatile oil, to give the desired perfume.
The mixing machine is then
closed, and kept at work until the constituents
are perfectly mixed; the powder
is then ready to be put up for the market.
Its purpose is to effect a rapid absorption
of the sputum, with simultaneous destruction
of any microbes present, and to
prevent decomposition and consequent
unpleasant odors.Deodorants For Water-closets.—
| I.— |
Ferric chloride |
4 parts |
| Zinc chloride |
5 parts |
| Aluminum chloride |
5 parts |
| Calcium chloride |
4 parts |
| Magnesium chloride |
3 parts |
| Water sufficient to make |
90 parts |
Dissolve, and add to each gallon 10
grains thymol and 1/4 ounce oil of rosemary,
previously dissolved in about 6
quarts of alcohol, and filter.
| II.— |
Sulphuric acid, fuming |
90 parts |
| Potassium permanganate |
45 parts |
| Water |
4,200 parts |
Dissolve the permanganate in the
water, and add under the acid. This is
said to be a most powerful disinfectant,
deodorizer, and germicide. It should
not be used where there are metal trimmings.
Formaldehyde For Disinfecting Books, Papers, Etc.
—The property of formaldehyde
of penetrating all kinds of paper,
even when folded together in several
layers, may be utilized for a perfect disinfection
of books and letters, especially
at a temperature of 86° to 122° F. in a
closed room. The degree of penetration
as well as the disinfecting power of
the formaldehyde depend upon the
method of generating the gas. Letters,
paper in closed envelopes, are completely
disinfected only in 12 hours, books in
24 hours at a temperature of 122° F.
when 70 cubic centimeters of formo-chloral—17.5
g. of gas—per cubic meter
of space are used. Books must be stood
up in such a manner that the gas can
enter from the sides. Bacilli of typhoid
preserve their vitality longer upon unsized
paper and on filtering paper than
on other varieties.There is much difference of opinion
as to the disinfecting and deodorizing
power of formaldehyde when used to
disinfect wooden tierces. While some
have found it to answer well, others
have got variable results, or failed of
success. The explanation seems to be
that those who have obtained poor results
have not allowed time for the disinfectant
to penetrate the pores of the
wood, the method of application being
wrong. The solution is thrown into the
tierce, which is then steamed out at once,
whereby the aldehyde is volatilized before
it has had time to do its work. If
the formal and the steam, instead of
being used in succession, were used together,
the steam would carry the disinfectant
into the pores of the wood.
But a still better plan is to give the aldehyde
more time. {264}
Another point to be remembered in all
cases of disinfection by formaldehyde is
that a mechanical cleansing must precede
the action of the antiseptic. If
there are thick deposits of organic matter
which can be easily dislodged with a
scrubbing brush, they can only be disinfected
by the use of large quantities
of formaldehyde used during a long period
of time.
General Disinfectants.—
| I.— |
Alum |
10 ounces |
| Sodium carbonate |
10 ounces |
| Ammonium chloride |
2 ounces |
| Zinc chloride |
1 ounce |
| Sodium chloride |
2 ounces |
| Hydrochloric acid, quantity sufficient. |
| Water to make |
1 gallon. |
Dissolve the alum in one half gallon
of boiling water, and add the sodium
carbonate; then add hydrochloric acid
until the precipitate formed is dissolved.
Dissolve the other salt in water and add
to the previous solution. Finally add
enough water to make the whole measure
1 gallon, and filter.
In use, this is diluted with 7 parts of
water.
II.—For the Sick Room.—In using
this ventilate frequently: Guaiac, 10 parts;
eucalyptol, 8 parts; phenol, 6 parts; menthol,
4 parts; thymol, 2 parts; oil of
cloves, 1 part; alcohol of 90 per cent,
170 parts.
Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms.—
|
by weight |
| III.— |
Eucalyptol |
10 parts |
| Thyme oil |
5 parts |
| Lemon oil |
5 parts |
| Lavender oil |
5 parts |
| Spirit, 90 per cent |
110 parts |
To a pint of water a teaspoonful for
evaporation.
Non-Poisonous Sheep Dips.—Paste.—
| I.— |
Creosote
(containing 15 per cent to 20 per cent of carbolic acid) |
2 parts |
| Stearine or Yorkshire grease
specific gravity, 1340 |
1 part |
| Black rosin, 5 per cent to 10 per cent. |
Melt the rosin and add grease and soda
lyes, and then add creosote cold.
| II.— |
Creosote |
1 part |
| Crude hard rosin oil |
1 part |
Put rosin oil in copper and heat to
about 220° F., and add as much caustic
soda powder, 98 per cent strength, as the
oil will take up. The quantity depends
upon the amount of acetic acid in the
oil. If too much soda is added it will
remain at the bottom. When the rosin
oil has taken up the soda add creosote,
and let it stand.
Odorless Disinfectants.—
| I.— |
Ferric chloride |
4 parts |
| Zinc chloride |
5 parts |
| Aluminum chloride |
5 parts |
| Calcium chloride |
4 parts |
| Manganese chloride |
3 parts |
| Water |
69 parts |
If desired, 10 grains thymol and 2
fluidrachms oil of rosemary, previously
dissolved in about 12 fluidrachms of alcohol,
may be added to each gallon.
| II.— |
Alum |
10 parts |
| Sodium carbonate |
10 parts |
| Ammonium chloride |
2 parts |
| Sodium chloride |
2 parts |
| Zinc chloride |
1 part |
| Hydrochloric acid, sufficient. |
| Water |
100 parts |
Dissolve the alum in about 50 parts
boiling water and add the sodium carbonate.
The resulting precipitate of
aluminum hydrate dissolve with the aid
of just sufficient hydrochloric acid, and
add the other ingredients previously dissolved
in the remainder of the water.
| III.— |
Mercuric chloride |
1 part |
| Cupric sulphate |
10 parts |
| Zinc sulphate |
50 parts |
| Sodium chloride |
65 parts |
| Water to make |
1,000 parts. |
Paris Salts.
—The disinfectant known
by this name is a mixture made from the
following recipe:
| Zinc sulphate |
49 parts |
| Ammonia alum |
49 parts |
| Potash permanganate |
1 part |
| Lime |
1 part |
The ingredients are fused together,
mixed with a little calcium chloride,
and perfumed with thymol.
Platt’s Chlorides.—
| I.— |
Aluminum sulphate |
6 ounces |
| Zinc chloride |
1 1/2 ounces |
| Sodium chloride |
2 ounces |
| Calcium chloride |
3 ounces |
| Water enough to make |
2 pints. |
II.—A more elaborate formula for a
preparation said to resemble the proprietary
article is as follows: {265}
| Zinc, in strips |
4 ounces |
| Lead carbonate |
2 ounces |
| Chlorinated lime |
1 ounce |
| Magnesium carbonate |
1/2 ounce |
| Aluminum hydrate |
1 1/2 ounces |
| Potassium hydrate |
1/2 ounce |
| Hydrochloric acid |
16 ounces |
| Water |
16 ounces |
| Whiting, enough. |
Dissolve the zinc in the acid; then add
the other salts singly in the order named,
letting each dissolve before the next is
added. When all are dissolved add the
water to the solution, and after a couple
of hours add a little whiting to neutralize
any excess of acid; then filter.
Zinc chloride ranks very low among
disinfectants, and the use of such solutions
as these, by giving a false sense of
security from disease germs, may be the
means of spreading rather than of checking
the spread of sickness.
Disinfecting Coating.
—Carbolic
acid, 2 parts; manganese, 3 parts; calcium chloride, 2
parts; china clay, 10 parts; infusorial earth, 4 parts;
dextrin, 2 parts; and water, 10 parts.DISTEMPER IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.
DIURETIC BALL: See Veterinary Formulas.
DOG APPLICATIONS: See Insecticides.
DOG BISCUIT.
The waste portions of meat and tallow,
including the skin and fiber, have for
years been imported from South American
tallow factories in the form of blocks.
Most of the dog bread consists principally
of these remnants, chopped and mixed
with flour. They contain a good deal of
firm fibrous tissue, and a large percentage
of fat, but are lacking in nutritive
salts, which must be added to make good
dog bread, just as in the case of the meat
flour made from the waste of meat extract
factories. The flesh of dead animals
is not used by any reputable manufacturers,
for the reason that it gives a
dark color to the dough, has an unpleasant
odor, and if not properly sterilized
would be injurious to dogs as a steady
diet.
Wheat flour, containing as little bran
as possible, is generally used, oats, rye,
or Indian meal being only mixed in to
make special varieties, or, as in the case
of Indian meal, for cheapness. Rye
flour would give a good flavor, but it
dries slowly, and the biscuits would have
to go through a special process of drying
after baking, else they would mold and
spoil. Dog bread must be made from
good wheat flour, of a medium sort,
mixed with 15 or 16 per cent of sweet, dry
chopped meat, well baked and dried like
pilot bread or crackers. This is the rule
for all the standard dog bread on the
market. There are admixtures which
affect more or less its nutritive value,
such as salt, vegetables, chopped bones,
or bone meal, phosphate of lime, and
other nutritive salts. In preparing the
dough and in baking, care must be taken
to keep it light and porous.
DOG DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.
DOG SOAP: See Soap.
DONARITE: See Explosives.
DOORS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
DOSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN.
The usual method pursued by medical
men in calculating the doses of medicine
for children is to average the dose in
proportion to their approximate weight
or to figure out a dose upon the assumption
that at 12 years of age half of an
adult dose will be about right. Calculated
on this basis the doses for those
under 12 will be in direct proportion to
the age in years plus 12, divided into the
age. By this rule a child 1 year old
should get 1 plus 12, or 13, dividing 1,
or 1/13 of an adult dose. If the child is
2 years old it should get 2 plus 12, or 14,
dividing 2, or 1/7 of an adult dose. A child
of 3 years should get 3 plus 12, or 15,
dividing 3, or 1/5 of an adult dose. A child
of 4 should get 4 plus 12, or 16, dividing
4, or 1/4 of an adult dose.
As both children and adults vary
materially in size when of the same age
the calculation by approximate weights
is the more accurate way. Taking the
weight of the average adult as 150 pounds,
then a boy, man, or woman, whatever
the age, weighing only 75 pounds should
receive only one-half of an adult dose,
and a man of 300 pounds, provided his
weight is the result of a properly proportioned
body, and not due to mere adipose {266}
tissue, should be double that of the average
adult. If the weight is due to mere
fat or to some diseased condition of the
body, such a calculation would be entirely
wrong. The object of the calculation
is to get as nearly as possible to the
amount of dilution the dose undergoes in
the blood or in the intestinal contents of
the patient. Each volume of blood should
receive exactly the same dose in order to
give the same results, other conditions
being equal.
DOSE TABLE FOR VETERINARY PURPOSES: See Veterinary Formulas.
DRAWINGS, PRESERVATION OF.
Working designs and sketches are easily
soiled and rendered unsuitable for
further use. This can be easily avoided
by coating them with collodion, to which
24 per cent of stearine from a good stearine
candle has been added. Lay the drawing
on a glass plate or a board, and pour on
the collodion, as the photographer treats
his plates. After 10 or 20 minutes the
design will be dry and perfectly white,
possessing a dull luster, and being so well
protected that it may be washed off with
water without fear of spoiling it.
DRAWINGS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
DRIERS: See Siccatives.
DRILLING, LUBRICANT FOR: See Lubricants.
DRINKS FOR SUMMER AND WINTER: See Beverages.
DROPS, TABLE OF: See Tables.
DRYING OILS: See Oil.
DRY ROT: See Rot.
DUBBING FOR LEATHER: See Lubricants.
DUST-LAYING: See Oil.
DUST PREVENTERS AND DUST CLOTHS: See Household Formulas.
DYES
In accordance with the requirements
of dyers, many of the following recipes
describe dyes for large quantities of
goods, but to make them equally adapted
for the use of private families they are
usually given in even quantities, so that
it is an easy matter to ascertain the quantity
of materials required for dyeing, when
once the weight of the goods is known,
the quantity of materials used being reduced
in proportion to the smaller quantity
of goods.
Employ soft water for all dyeing purposes,
if it can be procured, using 4 gallons
water to 1 pound of goods; for larger
quantities a little less water will do. Let
all the implements used in dyeing be kept
perfectly clean. Prepare the goods by
scouring well with soap and water, washing
out the soap well, and dipping in warm
water, before immersion in the dye or
mordant. Goods should be well aired,
rinsed, and properly hung up after dyeing.
Silks and fine goods should be tenderly
handled, otherwise injury to the
fabric will result.
Aniline Black.
—Water, 20 to 30 parts;
chlorate of potassa, 1 part; sal ammoniac,
1 part; chloride of copper, 1 part;
aniline and hydrochloric acid, each 1 part,
previously mixed together. It is essential
that the preparation should be acid,
and the more acid it is the more rapid
will be the production of the blacks; if
too much so, it may injure the fabric.
The fabric or yarn is dried in ageing
rooms at a low temperature for 24 hours,
and washed afterwards.
Black On Cotton.
—For 40 pounds
goods, use sumac, 30 pounds; boil 3/4 of an
hour; let the goods steep overnight, and
immerse them in limewater, 40 minutes,
remove, and allow them to drip 3/4 of an
hour; add copperas, 4 pounds, to the sumac
liquor, and dip 1 hour more; next work
them through limewater for 20 minutes;
then make a new dye of logwood, 20
pounds, boil 2 1/2 hours, and enter the
goods 3 hours; then add bichromate of
potash, 1 pound, to the new dye, and dip
1 hour more. Work in clean cold water
and dry out of the sun.
Black Straw Hat Varnish.
—Best alcohol,
4 ounces; pulverized black sealing
wax, 1 ounce. Place in a phial, and
put the phial into a warm place, stirring
or shaking occasionally until the wax is
dissolved. Apply it when warm before
the fire or in the sun. This makes a
beautiful gloss. {267}
Chrome Black For Wool.
—For 40
pounds of goods, use blue vitriol, 3
pounds; boil a short time, then dip the
wool or fabric 3/4 of an hour, airing frequently.
Take out the goods, and make
a dye with logwood, 24 pounds; boil 1/2
hour, dip 3/4 of an hour, air the goods, and
dip 1/4 of an hour longer; then wash in
strong soapsuds. A good fast color.
Black Dye On Wool, For Mixtures.
—For
50 pounds of wool, take bichromate
of potash, 1 pound, 4 ounces; ground
argal, 15 ounces; boil together and put
in the fabric, stirring well, and let it remain
in the dye 5 hours. Take it out,
rinse slightly in clean water, then make a
new dye, into which put logwood, 1 1/2
pounds. Boil 1 1/4 hours, adding chamber
lye, 5 pints. Let the fabric remain
in all night, and wash out in clean water.
Bismarck Brown.
—Mix together 1
pound Bismarck, 5 gallons water, and
3/4 pound sulphuric acid. This paste
dissolves easily in hot water and may be
used directly for dyeing. A liquid dye
may be prepared by making the bulk of
the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol.
To dye, sour with sulphuric acid;
add a quantity of sulphate of soda, immerse
the wool, and add the color by
small portions, keeping the temperature
under 212° F. Very interesting shades
may be developed by combining the color
with indigo paste or picric acid.
Chestnut Brown For Straw Bonnets.
—For
25 hats, use ground sanders, 1 1/2
pounds; ground curcuma, 2 pounds;
powdered gallnuts or sumac, 3/4 pound;
rasped logwood, 1/10 pound. Boil together
with the hats in a large kettle (so
as not to crowd), for 2 hours, then withdraw
the hats, rinse, and let them remain
overnight in a bath of nitrate of
4° Bé., when they are washed. A darker
brown may be obtained by increasing the
quantity of sanders. To give the hats
the desired luster, they are brushed with
a brush of couchgrass, when dry.
Cinnamon Or Brown For Cotton And Silk.
—Give the goods as much color,
from a solution of blue vitriol, 2 ounces,
to water, 1 gallon, as they will take up
in dipping 15 minutes; then turn them
through limewater. This will make a
beautiful sky blue of much durability.
The fabric should next be run through a
solution of prussiate of potash, 1 ounce,
to water, 1 gallon.
Brown Dye For Cotton Or Linen.
—Give
the pieces a mixed mordant of acetate of
alumina and acetate of iron, and then
dye them in a bath of madder, or madder
and fustic. When the acetate of alumina
predominates, the dye has an
amaranth tint. A cinnamon tint is obtained
by first giving a mordant of alum,
next a madder bath, then a bath of fustic,
to which a little green copperas has been
added.
Brown For Silk.
—Dissolve annatto,
1 pound; pearlash, 4 pounds, in boiling
water, and pass the silk through it for 2
hours; then take it out, squeeze well,
and dry. Next give it a mordant of
alum, and pass through a bath of brazil
wood, and afterwards through a bath
of logwood, to which a little green copperas
has been added; wring it out and
dry; afterwards rinse well.
Brown Dye For Wool.
—This may be
induced by a decoction of oak bark, with
variety of shade according to the quantity
employed. If the goods be first
passed through a mordant of alum the
color will be brightened.
Brown For Cotton.
—Catechu or terra
japonica gives cotton a brown color;
blue vitriol turns it to the bronze; green
copperas darkens it, when applied as a
mordant and the stuff is boiled in the
bath. Acetate of alumina as a mordant
brightens it. The French color Carmelite
is given with catechu, 1 pound;
verdigris, 4 ounces; and sal ammoniac,
5 ounces.
Dark Snuff Brown For Wool.
—For 50
pounds of goods, take camwood, 10
pounds, boil for 20 minutes, then dip the
goods for 3/4 of an hour; take them out,
and add to the dye, fustic, 25 pounds,
boil 12 minutes, and dip the goods 3/4 of
an hour; then add blue vitriol, 10 ounces,
copperas, 2 pounds, 8 ounces; dip again 40
minutes. Add more copperas if the
shade is required darker.
Brown For Wool And Silk.
—Infusion
or decoction of walnut peels dyes wool
and silk a brown color, which is brightened
by alum. Horse-chestnut peels
also impart a brown color; a mordant of
muriate of tin turns it on the bronze, and
sugar of lead the reddish brown.
Alkali Blue And Nicholson’s Blue.
—Dissolve
1 pound of the dye in 10 gallons
boiling water, and add this by small portions
to the dye bath, which should be
rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric
should be well worked about between
each addition of the color. The temperature
must be kept under 212° F.
To develop the color, wash with water {268}
and pass through a bath containing
sulphuric acid.
Aniline Blue.
—To 100 pounds of fabric,
dissolve 1 1/4 pounds aniline blue in 3
quarts hot alcohol, strain through a filter,
and add it to a bath of 130° F.; also 10
pounds Glauber’s salts, and 5 pounds
acetic acid. Immerse the goods and
handle them well for 20 minutes. Next
heat slowly to 200° F.; then add 5
pounds sulphuric acid diluted with water.
Let the whole boil 20 minutes longer;
then rinse and dry. If the aniline be
added in 2 or 3 proportions during the
process of coloring, it will facilitate the
evenness of the color.
Blue On Cotton.
—For 40 pounds of
goods, use copperas, 2 pounds; boil and
dip 20 minutes; dip in soapsuds, and
return to the dye 3 or 4 times; then
make a new bath with prussiate of potash,
1/2 pound; oil of vitriol, 1 1/4 pints;
boil 1/2 hour, rinse out and dry.
Sky Blue On Cotton.
—For 60 pounds
of goods, blue vitriol, 5 pounds. Boil a
short time, then enter the goods, dip 3
hours, and transfer to a bath of strong
limewater. A fine brown color will be
imparted to the goods if they are then
put through a solution of prussiate of
potash.
Blue Dye For Hosiery.
—One hundred
pounds of wool are colored with 4 pounds
Guatemala or 3 pounds Bengal indigo,
in the soda or wood vat. Then boil in
a kettle a few minutes, 5 pounds of cudbear
or 8 pounds of archil paste; add 1
pound of soda, or, better, 1 pail of urine;
then cool the dye to about 170° F. and
enter the wool. Handle well for about
20 minutes, then take it out, cool, rinse,
and dry. It makes no difference
whether the cudbear is put in before or
after the indigo. Three ounces of aniline
purple dissolved in alcohol, 1/2 pint,
can be used instead of the cudbear.
Wood spirit is cheaper than alcohol, and
is much used by dyers for the purpose of
dissolving aniline colors. It produces a
very pretty shade, but should never be
used on mixed goods which have to be
bleached.
Dark-blue Dye.
—This dye is suitable
for thibets and lastings. Boil 100 pounds
of the fabric for 1 1/2 hours in a solution of
alum, 25 pounds; tartar, 4 pounds; mordant,
6 pounds; extract of indigo, 6
pounds; cool as usual. Boil in fresh
water from 8 to 10 pounds of logwood,
in a bag or otherwise, then cool the dye
to 170° F. Reel the fabric quickly at
first, then let it boil strongly for 1 hour.
This is a very good imitation of indigo
blue.
Saxon Blue.
—For 100 pounds thibet
or comb yarn, use alum, 20 pounds;
cream of tartar, 3 pounds; mordant, 2
pounds; extract of indigo, 3 pounds; or
carmine, 1 pound, makes a better color.
When all is dissolved, cool the kettle to
180° F.; enter and handle quickly at
first, then let the fabric boil 1/2 hour, or
until even. Long boiling dims the color.
Zephyr worsted yarn ought to be prepared,
first, by boiling it in a solution
of alum and sulphuric acid; the indigo
is added afterwards.
Logwood And Indigo Blue.
—For 100
pounds of cloth. Color the cloth first by
one or two dips in the vat of indigo blue,
and rinse it well, and then boil it in a
solution of 20 pounds of alum, 2 pounds
of half-refined tartar, and 5 pounds of
mordant, for 2 hours; finally take it out and
cool. In fresh water boil 10 pounds of
good logwood for half an hour in a bag
or otherwise; cool off to 170° F. before
entering. Handle well over a reel, let it
boil for half an hour; then take it out,
cool and rinse. This is a very firm
blue.
Blue Purple For Silk.
—For 40 pounds
of goods, take bichromate of potash, 8
ounces; alum, 1 pound; dissolve all and
bring the water to a boil, and put in the
goods; boil 1 hour. Then empty the
dye, and make a new dye with logwood,
8 pounds, or extract of logwood, 1 pound
4 ounces, and boil in this 1 hour longer.
Grade the color by using more or less
logwood, as dark or light color is wanted.
Blue Purple For Wool.
—One hundred
pounds of wool are first dipped in the
blue vat to a light shade, then boiled in
a solution of 15 pounds of alum and 3
pounds of half-refined tartar, for 1 1/2
hours, the wool taken out, cooled, and
let stand 24 hours. Then boil in fresh
water 8 pounds of powdered cochineal
for a few minutes, cool the kettle to 170° F. Handle the prepared wool in this
for 1 hour, when it is ready to cool, rinse
and dry. By coloring first with cochineal,
as aforesaid, and finishing in the
blue vat, the fast purple or dahlia, so
much admired in German broadcloths,
will be produced. Tin acids must not
be used in this color.
To Make Extract Of Indigo Blue.
—Take
of vitriol, 2 pounds, and stir into it
finely pulverized indigo, 8 ounces, stirring
briskly for the first half hour; then {269}
cover up, and stir 4 or 5 times daily
for a few days. Add a little pulverized
chalk, stirring it up, and keep adding it
as long as it foams; it will neutralize the
acid. Keep it closely corked.
Light Silver Drab.
—For 50 pounds of
goods, use logwood, 1/2 pound; alum, about
the same quantity; boil well, enter the
goods, and dip them for 1 hour. Grade
the color to any desired shade by using
equal parts of logwood and alum.Gray Dyes:
Slate Dye For Silk.
—For a small quantity,
take a pan of warm water and
about a teacupful of logwood liquor,
pretty strong, and a piece of pearlash the
size of a nut; take gray-colored goods
and handle a little in this liquid, and it is
finished. If too much logwood is used,
the color will be too dark.
Slate For Straw Hats.
—First, soak in
rather strong warm suds for 15 minutes
to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse
in warm water to get out the soap.
Scald cudbear, 1 ounce, in sufficient
water to cover the hat; work it in this
dye at 180° F., until a light purple is
obtained. Have a vessel of cold water,
blued with the extract of indigo, 1/2 ounce,
and work or stir the bonnet in this until
the tint pleases. Dry, then rinse out
with cold water, and dry again in the
shade. If the purple is too deep in shade
the final slate will be too dark.
Silver Gray For Straw.
—For 25 hats,
select the whitest hats and soften them
in a bath of crystallized soda to which
some clean limewater has been added.
Boil for 2 hours in a large vessel, using
for a bath a decoction of the following:
Alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid, 3/8
pound; some ammoniacal cochineal,
and carmine of indigo. A little sulphuric
acid may be necessary in order to neutralize
the alkali of the cochineal dye. If
the last-mentioned ingredients are used,
let the hats remain for an hour longer in
the boiling bath, then rinse in slightly
acidulated water.
Dark Steel.
—Mix black and white
wool together in the proportion of 50
pounds of black wool to 7 1/2 pounds of
white. For large or small quantities,
keep the same proportion, mixing carefully
and thoroughly.Green Dyes:
Aniline Green For Silk.
—Iodine green
or night green dissolves easily in warm
water. For a liquid dye 1 pound may be
dissolved in 1 gallon alcohol, and mixed
with 2 gallons water, containing 1 ounce
sulphuric acid.
Aniline Green For Wool.
—Prepare two
baths, one containing the dissolved dye
and a quantity of carbonate of soda or
borax. In this the wool is placed, and
the temperature raised to 212° F. A
grayish green is produced, which must
be brightened and fixed in a second bath
of water 100° F., to which some acetic
acid has been added. Cotton requires
preparation by sumac.
Green For Cotton.
—For 40 pounds of
goods, use fustic, 10 pounds; blue vitriol,
10 ounces; soft soap, 2 1/2 quarts; and logwood
chips, 1 pound 4 ounces. Soak
the logwood overnight in a brass vessel,
and put it on the fire in the morning,
adding the other ingredients. When
quite hot it is ready for dyeing; enter the
goods at once, and handle well. Different
shades may be obtained by letting
part of the goods remain longer in the
dye.
Green For Silk.
—Boil green ebony in
water, and let it settle. Take the clear
liquor as hot as the hands can bear, and
handle the goods in it until of a bright
yellow. Take water and put in a little
sulphate of indigo; handle goods in this
till of the shade desired. The ebony may
previously be boiled in a bag to prevent
it from sticking to the silk.
Green For Wool And Silk.
—Take equal
quantities of yellow oak and hickory
bark, make a strong yellow bath by
boiling, and shade to the desired tint by
adding a small quantity of extract of
indigo.
Green Fustic Dye.
—For 50 pounds of
goods, use 50 pounds of fustic with alum,
11 pounds. Soak in water until the
strength is extracted, put in the goods
until of a good yellow color, remove the
chips, and add extract of indigo in small
quantities at a time, until the color is
satisfactory.Purple And Violet Dyes:
Aniline Violet And Purple.
—Acidulate
the bath by sulphuric acid, or use sulphate
of soda; both these substances
render the shade bluish. Dye at 212° F.
To give a fair middle shade to 10 pounds
of wool, a quantity of solution equal to
1/2 to 3/4 ounces of the solid dye will be required.
The color of the dyed fabric is
improved by washing in soap and water,
and then passing through a bath soured
by sulphuric acid.
Purple.
—For 40 pounds of goods, use {270}
alum, 3 pounds; muriate of tin, 4 teacups;
pulverized cochineal, 1 pound;
cream of tartar, 2 pounds. Boil the
alum, tin, and cream of tartar, for 20
minutes, add the cochineal and boil 5
minutes; immerse the goods 2 hours; remove
and enter them in a new dye composed
of brazil wood, 3 pounds; logwood,
7 pounds; alum, 4 pounds, and
muriate of tin, 8 cupfuls, adding a little
extract of indigo.
Purple For Cotton.
—Get up a tub of
hot logwood liquor, enter 3 pieces, give
them 5 ends, and hedge out. Enter
them in a clean alum tub, give them 5
ends, and hedge out. Get up another
tub of logwood liquor, enter, give them
5 ends, and hedge out; renew the alum
tub, give 5 ends in that, and finish.
Purple For Silk.
—For 10 pounds of
goods, enter the goods in a blue dye bath,
and secure a light-blue color, dry, and
dip in a warm solution containing alum,
2 1/2 pounds. Should a deeper color be
required, add a little extract of indigo.
Solferino And Magenta For Woolen, Silk, Or Cotton.
—For 1 pound of woolen
goods, magenta shade, 96 grains, apothecaries’
weight, of aniline red, will be required.
Dissolve in a little warm alcohol,
using, say, 6 fluidounces, or about 6
gills alcohol per ounce of aniline. Many
dyers use wood spirits because of its
cheapness. For a solferino shade, use
64 grains aniline red, and dissolve in 4
ounces alcohol, to each 1 pound of goods.
Cold water, 1 quart, will dissolve these
small quantities of aniline red, but the
cleanest and quickest way will be found
by using the alcohol, or wood spirits.
Clean the cloth and goods by steeping
at a gentle heat in weak soapsuds, rinse
in several masses of clean water and lay
aside moist. The alcoholic solution of
aniline is to be added from time to time
to the warm or hot dye bath, till the color
on the goods is of the desired shade.
The goods are to be removed from the
dye bath before each addition of the
alcoholic solution, and the bath is to be
well stirred before the goods are returned.
The alcoholic solution should
be first dropped into a little water, and
well mixed, and the mixture should then
be strained into the dye bath. If the
color is not dark enough after working
from 20 to 30 minutes, repeat the removal
of the goods from the bath, and
the addition of the solution, and the re-immersion
of the goods from 15 to 30
minutes more, or until suited, then remove
from the bath and rinse in several
masses of clean water, and dry in the
shade. Use about 4 gallons water for
dye bath for 1 pound of goods; less water
for larger quantities.
Violet For Silk Or Wool.
—A good violet
dye may be given by passing the goods
first through a solution of verdigris, then
through a decoction of logwood, and
lastly through alum water. A fast violet
may be given by dyeing the goods crimson
with cochineal, without alum or
tartar, and after rinsing passing them
through the indigo vat. Linens or cottons
are first galled with 18 per cent of
gallnuts, next passed through a mordant
of alum, iron liquor, and sulphate of
copper, working them well, then worked
in a madder bath made with an equal
weight of root, and lastly brightened
with soap or soda.