Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.

Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.

Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.

Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.

Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.

Tan And Freckle Lotion.—

Solution A:

Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.

Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.

Solution B:

Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.

Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.

Liver Spots.

Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.

II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.

Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.

Toilet Powders:

Almond Powders For The Toilet.—

Bath Powder.—

Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.

Brunette Or Rachelle.—

Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.

Violet Poudre De Riz.—

II.—Cheaper.

Barber’s Powder.—

Rose Poudre De Riz.—

Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.

Flesh Face Powder.—

Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.

White Face Powder.—

Perfume the same. Mix and sift.

The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:

Violet Talc.—

Rose Talc.—

Tea-Rose Talc.—

Borated Apple Blossom.—

Toilet Vinegars:

Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.—

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.

Vinaigre Rouge.—

Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.

Toilet Waters:

“Beauty Water.”—

Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.

At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 ¹/₂ ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.

III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1 pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.

Violet Witch-hazel.—

COTTON

Bleaching Of Cotton:

I.—Bleaching by Steaming.—The singed and washed cotton goods are passed through hydrochloric acid of 2° Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour, wash, pass through sodium hypochlorite of 10° Bé. diluted with 10 times the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass through caustic soda lye of 38° Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not be sufficient, repeat the operations.

II.—Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite.—The cotton goods are impregnated with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and ¹/₂ part of bisulphite of 40° Bé.; next steamed during 1–2 hours at a pressure of ¹/₂ atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried. The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.

III.—Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide.—Pass the pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a pressure of ²/₃ atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight, of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight, of hydrogen peroxide. After 3–4 hours’ boiling, wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.

The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is weakened to a less extent.

Tests For Cotton.

I.—Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash, and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or absorbent cotton, which, according to the U. S. P., is soluble in copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B. P. is more specific and states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B. P.) is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled {246} water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller quantity of distilled water.

II.—Schweitzer’s reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water; then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.

III.—Jandrier’s Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics.—Wash the sample of fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20 Bé.) for half an hour on the water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin, and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products. The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid; hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender; thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods, using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.

IV.—Overbeck’s test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored crimson, cotton remains blue.

V.—Liebermann’s Test.—Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed with water—silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and cotton remains colorless.

To Distinguish Cotton from Linen.—Take a sample about an inch and a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.

COTTONSEED HULLS AS STOCK FOOD.

Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212° to 300° F. The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate, chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.

COTTONSEED OIL: See Oil.

COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF: See Foods and Lard.

COUGH CANDY: See Confectionery.

COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas. {247}

COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES: See Cold and Cough Mixtures.

COURT PLASTERS

(See also Plasters.)

II.—In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U. S. P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:

Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually sufficient.

III.—Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.

COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

CRAYONS: See Pencils.

CRAYONS FOR GRAINING AND MARBLING.

Heat 4 parts of water and 1 part of white wax over a fire until the wax has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 part of purified potash. When an intimate combination has taken place, allow to cool and add a proportionate quantity of gum arabic. With this mixture the desired colors are ground thick enough so that they can be conveniently rolled into a pencil with chalk. The desired shades must be composed on the grinding slab as they are wanted, and must not be simply left in their natural tone. Use, for instance, umber, Vandyke brown, and white lead for oak; umber alone would be too dark for walnut use. All the earth colors can be conveniently worked up. It is best to prepare 2 or 3 crayons of each set, mixing the first a little lighter by the addition of white lead and leaving the others a little darker. The pencils should be kept in a dry place and are more suitable for graining and marbling than brushes, since they can be used with either oil or water.

CRAYONS FOR WRITING ON GLASS: See Etching, and Glass.

CREAM

(See also Milk.)

Special machines have been constructed for whipping cream, but most dispensers prepare it with an ordinary egg beater. Genuine whipped cream is nothing other than pure cream into which air has been forced by the action of the different apparatus manufactured for the purpose; care must, however, be exercised in order that butter is not produced instead of whipped cream. To avoid this the temperature of the cream must be kept at a low degree and the whipping must not be too violent or prolonged; hence the following rules must be observed in order to produce the desired result: {248}

1. Secure pure cream and as fresh as possible.

2. Surround the bowl in which the cream is being whipped with cracked ice, and perform the operation in a cool place.

3. As rapidly as the whipped cream arises, skim it off and place it in another bowl, likewise surrounded with ice.

4. Do not whip the cream too long or too violently.

5. The downward motion of the beater should be more forcible than the upward, as the first has a tendency to force the air into the cream, while the second, on the contrary, tends to expel it.

6. A little powdered sugar should be added to the cream after it is whipped, in order to sweeten it.

7. Make whipped cream in small quantities and keep it on ice.

I.—Cummins’s Whipped Cream.—Place 12 ounces of rich cream on the ice for about 1 hour; then with a whipper beat to a consistency that will withstand its own weight.

II.—Eberle’s Whipped Cream.—Take a pint of fresh, sweet cream, which has been chilled by being placed on the ice, add to it a heaping ta­ble­spoon­ful of powdered sugar and 2 ounces of a solution of gelatin (a spoonful dissolved in 2 ounces of water), whip slowly for a minute or two until a heavy froth gathers on top. Skim off the dense froth, and put in container for counter use; continue this until you have frothed all that is possible.

III.—Foy’s Whipped Cream.—Use only pure cream; have it ice cold, and in a convenient dish for whipping with a wire whipper. A clear, easy, quick, and convenient way is to use a beater. Fill about one-half full of cream, and beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes; a little powdered sugar may be added before beating. The cream may be left in the beater, and placed on ice.

IV.—American Soda Fountain Company’s Whipped Cream.—Take 2 earthen bowls and 2 tin pans, each 6 or 8 inches greater in diameter than the bowls; place a bowl in each pan, surround it with broken ice, put the cream to be whipped in 1 bowl, and whip it with a whipped cream churn. The cream should be pure and rich, and neither sugar nor gelatin should be added to it. As the whipped cream rises and fills the bowl, remove the churn, and skim off the whipped cream into the other bowl.

The philosophy of the process is that the churn drives air into the cream, and blows an infinity of tiny bubbles, which forms the whipped cream; therefore, in churning, raise the dasher gently and slowly, and bring it down quickly and forcibly. When the second bowl is full of whipped cream, pour off the liquid cream, which has settled to the bottom, into the first bowl, and whip it again. Keep the whipped cream on ice.

The addition of an even teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of sweet cream, before whipping, will make it whip up very readily and stiff, and stand up much longer and better.

CRESOL EMULSION.

One of the best starting points for the preparation is the “creosote” obtained from blast furnaces, which is rich in cresols and contains comparatively little phenols. The proportions used are: Creosote, 30 parts; soft soap, 10 parts; and solution of soda (10 per cent), 30 parts. Boil the ingredients together for an hour, then place aside to settle. The dark fluid is afterwards drained from any oily portion floating upon the top.

CREAM, COLD: See Cosmetics.

CREAMS FOR THE FACE AND SKIN: See Cosmetics.

CREOSOTE SOAP: See Soap.

CROCKERY: See Ceramics.

CROCKERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

CROCUS.

The substance known as “crocus,” which is so exceedingly useful as a polishing medium for steel, etc., may be very generally obtained in the cinders produced from coal containing iron. It will be easily recognized by its rusty color, and should be collected and reduced to a powder for future use. Steel burnishers may be brought to a high state of polish with this substance by rubbing them upon a buff made of soldiers’ belt or hard wood. After this operation, the burnisher should be rubbed on a second buff charged with jewelers’ rouge.

CRYSTAL CEMENTS FOR REUNITING BROKEN PIECES: See Adhesives, under Cements. {249}

CRYSTALLIZATION, ORNAMENTAL: See Gardens, Chemical.

CUCUMBER ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.

CUCUMBER JELLY, JUICE, AND MILK: See Cosmetics.

CURAÇOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

CURTAINS, COLORING OF: See Laundry Preparations.

CURRY POWDER: See Condiments.

CUSTARD POWDER: