Gutter Cement.

—Stir sand and fine lime into boiled paint skins while hot and thick. Use hot.

Cement For Pipe Joints.

—A good cement for making tight joints in pumps, pipes, etc., is made of a mixture of 15 parts of slaked lime, 30 parts of graphite, and 40 parts of barium sulphate. The ingredients are powdered, well mixed together, and stirred up with 15 parts of boiled oil. A stiffer preparation can be made by increasing the proportions of graphite and barium sulphate to 30 and 40 parts respectively, and omitting the lime. Another cement for the same purpose consists of 15 parts of chalk and 50 of graphite, ground, washed, mixed, and reground to fine powder. To this mixture is added 20 parts of ground litharge, and the whole mixed to a stiff paste with about 15 parts of boiled oil. This last preparation possesses the advantage of remaining plastic for a long time when stored in a cool place. Finally, a good and simple mixture for tightening screw connections is made from powdered shellac dissolved in 10 per cent ammonia. The mucinous mass is painted over the screw threads, after the latter have been thoroughly cleaned, and the fitting is screwed home. The ammonia soon volatilizes, leaving behind a mass which hardens quickly, makes a tight joint, and is impervious to hot and cold water.

Protection For Cement Work.

—A coating of soluble glass will impart to cement surfaces exposed to ammonia not only a protective covering, but also increased solidness.

Cemented surfaces can be protected from the action of the weather by repeated coats of a green vitriol solution consisting of 1 part of green vitriol and 3 parts of water. Two coatings of 5 per cent soap water are said to render the cement waterproof; after drying and rubbing with a cloth or brush, this coating will become glossy like oil paint. This application is especially recommended for sick rooms, since the walls can be readily cleaned by washing with soapy water. The coating is rendered more and more waterproof thereby. The green vitriol solution is likewise commendable for application on old and new plastering, since it produces thereon waterproof coatings. From old plastering the loose particles have first to be removed by washing.

Puncture Cement.

—A patented preparation for automatically repairing punctures in bicycle tires consists of glycerine holding gelatinous silica or aluminum hydrate in suspension. Three volumes of glycerine are mixed with 1 volume of liquid water glass, and an acid is stirred in. The resulting jelly is diluted with 3 additional volumes of glycerine, and from 4 to 6 ounces of this fluid are placed in each tire. In case of puncture, the internal pressure of the air forces the fluid into the hole, which it closes.

To Fix Iron In Stone.

—Of the quickly hardening cements, lead and sulphur, the latter is popularly employed. It can be rendered still more suitable for purposes of pouring by the admixture of Portland cement, which is stirred into the molten sulphur in the ratio of 1 to 3 parts by weight. The strength of the latter is increased by this addition, since the formation of so coarse a crystalline structure as that of solidifying pure sulphur is disturbed by the powder added.

White Portland Cement.

—Mix together feldspar, 40–100 parts, by weight; kaolin, 100 parts; limestone, 700 parts; magnesite, 20–40 parts; and sodium chloride, 2.5–5 parts, all as pure as possible, and heat to 1430° to 1500° C. (2606° to 2732° F.), until the whole has become sintered together, and forms a nice, white cement-like mass.

Cement For Closing Cracks In Stoves.

—Make a putty of reduced iron (iron by hydrogen) and a solution of sodium or potassium silicate, and force it into the crack. If the crack be a very narrow one, make the iron and silicate into paste instead of putty. This material grows firmer and harder the longer the mended article is used.

Cement For Waterpipe.

—I.—Mix together 11 parts, by weight, Portland cement; 4 parts, by weight, lead white; 1 part, by weight, litharge; and make to a paste with boiled oil in which 3 per cent of its weight of colophony has been dissolved.

II.—Mix 1 part, by weight, torn-up wadding; 1 part, by weight, of quicklime, and 3 parts, by weight, of boiled oil. This cement must be used as soon as made.

Cement For Pallet Stones.

—Place small pieces of shellac around the stone when in position and subject it to heat. Often the lac spreads unevenly or swells up; and this, in addition to being unsightly, is apt to displace the stone. This can be avoided as follows: The pallets are {163} held in long sliding tongs. Take a piece of shellac, heat it and roll it into a cylinder between the fingers; again heat the extremity and draw it out into a fine thread. This thread will break off, leaving a point at the end of the lac. Now heat the tongs at a little distance from the pallets, testing the degree of heat by touching the tongs with the shellac. When it melts easily, lightly touch the two sides of the notch with it; a very thin layer can thus be spread over them, and the pallet stone can then be placed in position and held until cold enough. The tongs will not lose the heat suddenly, so that the stone can easily be raised or lowered as required. The projecting particles of cement can be removed by a brass wire filed to an angle and forming a scraper. To cement a ruby pin, or the like, one may also use shellac dissolved in spirit, applied in the consistency of syrup, and liquefied again by means of a hot pincette, by seizing the stone with it.

Dental Cements:

Fairthorne’s Cement.
—Powdered glass, 5 parts; powdered borax, 4 parts; silicic acid, 8 parts; zinc oxide, 200 parts. Powder very finely and mix; then tint with a small quantity of golden ocher or manganese. The compound, mixed before use with concentrated syrupy zinc-chloride solution, soon becomes as hard as marble and constitutes a very durable tooth cement.
Huebner’s Cement.
—Zinc oxide, 500.0 parts; powdered manganese, 1.5 parts; yellow ocher, powdered, 1.5–4.0 parts; powdered borax, 10.0 parts; powdered glass, 100.0 parts.

As a binding liquid it is well to use acid-free zinc chloride, which can be prepared by dissolving pure zinc, free from iron, in concentrated, pure, hydrochloric acid, in such a manner that zinc is always in excess. When no more hydrogen is evolved the zinc in excess is still left in the solution for some time. The latter is filtered and boiled down to the consistency of syrup.

Commercial zinc oxide cannot be employed without previous treatment, because it is too loose; the denser it is the better is it adapted for dental cements, and the harder the latter will be. For this reason it is well, in order to obtain a dense product, to stir the commercial pure zinc oxide into a stiff paste with water to which 2 per cent of nitric acid has been added; the paste is dried and heated for some time at white heat in a Hessian crucible.

After cooling, the zinc oxide, thus obtained, is very finely powdered and kept in hermetically sealed vessels, so that it cannot absorb carbonic acid. The dental cement prepared with such zinc oxide turns very hard and solidifies with the concentrated zinc-chloride solution in a few minutes.

Phosphate Cement.
—Concentrate pure phosphoric acid till semi-solid, and mix aluminum phosphate with it by heating. For use, mix with zinc oxide to the consistency of putty. The cement is said to set in 2 minutes.
Zinc Amalgam, Or Dentists’ Zinc.
—This consists of pure zinc filings combined with twice their weight of mercury, a gentle heat being employed to render the union more complete. It is best applied as soon as made. Its color is gray, and it is said to be effective and durable.
Sorel’s Cement.
—Mix zinc oxide with half its bulk of fine sand, add a solution of zinc chloride of 1.260 specific gravity, and rub the whole thoroughly together in a mortar. The mixture must be applied at once, as it hardens very quickly.
Metallic Cement.
—Pure tin, with a small proportion of cadmium and sufficient mercury, forms the most lasting and, for all practical purposes, the least objectionable amalgam. Melt 2 parts of tin with 1 of cadmium, run it into ingots, and reduce it to filings. Form these into a fluid amalgam with mercury, and squeeze out the excess of the latter through leather. Work up the solid residue in the hand, and press it into the tooth. Or melt some beeswax in a pipkin, throw in 5 parts of cadmium, and when melted add 7 or 8 parts of tin in small pieces. Pour the melted metals into an iron or wooden box, and shake them until cold, so as to obtain the alloy in a powder. This is mixed with 2 1/2 to 3 times its weight of mercury in the palm of the hand, and used as above described.

CEMENT COLORS: See Stone.

CEMENT, MORDANT FOR: See Mordants.

CEMENT, PAINTS FOR: See Paint.

CEMENT, PROTECTION OF, AGAINST ACID: See Acid-Proofing. {164}

CHAIN OF FIRE: See Pyrotechnics.

CHAINS (WATCH), TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

CHALK FOR TAILORS.

Knead together ordinary pipe clay, moistened with ultramarine blue for blue, finely ground ocher for yellow, etc., until they are uniformly mixed, roll out into thin sheets, cut and press into wooden or metallic molds, well oiled to prevent sticking, and allow to dry slowly at ordinary temperature or at a very gentle heat.

CHAPPED HANDS: See Cosmetics.

CHARTA SINAPIS: See Mustard Paper.

CHARTREUSE: See Wines and Liquors.

CERAMICS

GROUND CERAMICS—LAYING OIL FOR: See Oil.

Notes For Potters, Glass-, And Brick-makers.

—It is of the highest importance in selecting oxides, minerals, etc., for manufacturing different articles, for potters’ use, to secure pure goods, especially in the purchase of the following: Lead, manganese, oxide of zinc, borax, whiting, oxide of iron, and oxide of cobalt. The different ingredients comprising any given color or glaze should be thoroughly mixed before being calcined, otherwise the mass will be of a streaky or variegated kind. Calcination requires care, especially in the manufacture of enamel colors. Over-firing, particularly of colors or enamels composed in part of lead, borax, antimony, or litharge, causes a dullness of shade, or film, that reduces their value for decorative purposes, where clearness and brilliancy are of the first importance.

To arrest the unsightly defect of “crazing,” the following have been the most successful methods employed, in the order given:

I.—Flux made of 10 parts tincal; 4 parts oxide of zinc; 1 part soda.

II.—A calcination of 5 parts oxide of zinc; 1 part pearl ash.

III.—Addition of raw oxide of zinc, 6 pounds to each hundredweight of glaze.

To glazed brick and tile makers, whose chief difficulty appears to be the production of a slip to suit the contraction of their clay, and adhere strongly to either a clay or a burnt brick or tile, the following method may be recommended:

Mix together:

Ball clay 10 parts
Cornwall stone 10 parts
China clay  7 parts
Flint  6 1/2 parts

To be mixed and lawned one week before use.

To Cut Pottery.

—Pottery or any soft or even hard stone substance can be cut without chipping by a disk of soft iron, the edge of which has been charged with emery, diamond, or other grinding powder, that can be obtained at any tool agency. The cutting has to be done with a liberal supply of water fed continually to the revolving disk and the substance to be cut.

Brick and Tilemakers’ Glazed Bricks:

White.
—When the brick or tile leaves the press, with a very soft brush cover the part to be glazed with No. 1 Slip; afterwards dip the face in the same mixture.
No. 1 Slip.—
Same clay as brick 9 parts
Flint 1 part
Ball clay 5 parts
China 4 parts

Allow the brick to remain slowly drying for 8 to 10 hours, then when moist dip in the white body.

White Body.—
China clay 24 parts
Ball clay  8 parts
Feldspar  8 parts
Flint  4 parts

The brick should now be dried slowly but thoroughly, and when perfectly dry dip the face in clean cold water, and immediately afterwards in glaze.

Hard Glaze.—
Feldspar 18 parts
Cornwall stone  3 1/2 parts
Whiting  1 1/2 parts
Oxide of zinc  1 1/2 parts
Plaster of Paris    3/4 part
{165}
Soft Glaze.—
White lead 13 parts
Feldspar 20 parts
Oxide of zinc  3 parts
Plaster of Paris  1 part
Flint glass 13 parts
Cornwall stone  3 1/2 parts
Paris white  1 1/4 parts

Where clay is used that will stand a very high fire, the white lead and glass may be left out. A wire brush should now be used to remove all superfluous glaze, etc., from the sides and ends of the brick, which is then ready for the kiln. In placing, set the bricks face to face, about an inch space being left between the two glazed faces. All the mixtures, after being mixed with water to the consistency of cream, must be passed 2 or 3 times through a very fine lawn. The kiln must not be opened till perfectly cold.

Process For Colored Glazes.
—Use color, 1 part, to white body, 7 parts. Use color, 1 part, to glaze, 9 parts.
Preparation Of Colors.
—The specified ingredients should all be obtained finely ground, and after being mixed in the proportions given should, in a saggar or some clay vessel, be fired in the brick kiln and afterwards ground for use. In firing the ingredients the highest heat attainable is necessary.
Turquoise.—
Oxide of zinc  8 parts
Oxide of cobalt  1 1/4 parts
Grass Green.—
Oxide of chrome  6 parts
Flint  1 part
Oxide of copper    1/2 part
Royal Blue.—
Pure alumina 20 parts
Oxide of zinc  8 parts
Oxide of cobalt  4 parts
Mazarine Blue.—
Oxide of cobalt 10 parts
Paris white  9 parts
Sulphate barytes  1 part
Red Brown.—
Oxide of zinc 40 parts
Crocus of martis  6 parts
Oxide of chrome  6 parts
Red lead  5 parts
Boracic acid  5 parts
Red oxide of iron  1 part
Orange.—
Pure alumina  5 parts
Oxide of zinc  2 parts
Bichromate of potash  1 part
Iron scale    1/2 part
Claret Brown.—
Bichromate of potash  2 parts
Flint  2 parts
Oxide of zinc  1 part
Iron scale  1 part
Blue Green.—
Oxide of chrome  6 parts
Flint  2 parts
Oxide of cobalt    3/4 part
Sky Blue.—
Flint  9 parts
Oxide of zinc 13 parts
Cobalt  2 1/2 parts
Phosphate soda  1 part
Chrome Green.—
Oxide of chrome  3 parts
Oxide of copper  1 part
Carbonate of cobalt  1 part
Oxide of cobalt  2 parts
Olive.—
Oxide of chrome  3 parts
Oxide of zinc  2 parts
Flint  5 parts
Oxide of cobalt  1 part
Blood Red.—
Oxide of zinc 30 parts
Crocus martis  7 parts
Oxide of chrome  7 parts
Litharge  5 parts
Borax  5 parts
Red oxide of iron  2 parts
Black.—
Chromate of iron 24 parts
Oxide of nickel  2 parts
Oxide of tin  2 parts
Oxide of cobalt  5 parts
Imperial Blue.—
Oxide of cobalt 10 parts
Black color  1 1/2 parts
Paris white  7 1/2 parts
Flint  2 1/2 parts
Carbonate of soda  1 part
Mahogany.—
Chromate of iron 30 parts
Oxide of manganese 20 parts
Oxide of zinc 12 parts
Oxide of tin  4 parts
Crocus martis  2 parts
Gordon Green.—
Oxide of chrome 12 parts
Paris white  8 parts
Bichromate of potash  4 1/2 parts
Oxide of cobalt    3/4 part
Violet.—
Oxide of cobalt  2 1/2 parts
Oxide of manganese  4 parts
Oxide of zinc  8 parts
Cornwall stone  8 parts
Lavender.—
Calcined oxide of zinc  5 parts
Carbonate of cobalt    3/4 part
Oxide of nickel    1/4 part
Paris white  1 part
Brown.—
Manganese  4 parts
Oxide of chrome  2 parts
Oxide of zinc  4 parts
Sulphate barytes  2 parts
Dove.—
Oxide of nickel  7 parts
Oxide of cobalt  2 parts
Oxide of chrome  1 part
Oxide of flint 18 parts
Paris white  3 parts
Yellow Green.—
Flint  6 parts
Paris white  4 parts
Bichromate of potash  4 1/2 parts
Red lead  2 parts
Fluorspar  2 parts
Plaster of Paris  1 1/2 parts
Oxide of copper    1/2 part

Bodies Requiring No Stain:

Ivory.—
Cane marl 16 parts
Ball clay 12 parts
Feldspar  8 parts
China clay  6 parts
Flint  4 parts
Cream.—
Ball clay 22 parts
China clay  5 1/2 parts
Flint  5 parts
Feldspar  3 1/2 parts
Cane marl 12 parts
Black.—
Ball clay 120 parts
Ground ocher 120 parts
Ground manganese  35 parts
Buff.—
Ball clay 12 parts
China clay 10 parts
Feldspar  8 parts
Bull fire clay 16 parts
Yellow ocher  3 parts
Drab.—
Cane marl 30 parts
Ball clay 10 parts
Stone  7 parts
Feldspar  4 parts
Brown.—
Red marl 50 parts
China clay  7 parts
Ground manganese  6 parts
Feldspar  3 parts
In making mazarine blue glazed bricks use the white body and stain the glaze only.
Mazarine blue  1 part
Glaze  7 parts

For royal blue use 1 part stain to 6 parts white body, and glaze unstained.

Blood-red Stain.
—Numerous brick manufacturers possess beds of clay from which good and sound bricks or tiles can be made, the only drawback being that the clay does not burn a good color. In many cases this arises from the fact that the clay contains more or less sulphur or other impurity, which spoils the external appearance of the finished article. The following stain will convert clay of any color into a rich, deep red, mixed in proportions of stain, 1 part, to clay, 60 parts.
Stain.—
Crocus martis 20 parts
Yellow ocher  4 parts
Sulphate of iron 10 parts
Red oxide of iron  2 parts

A still cheaper method is to put a slip or external coating upon the goods. The slip being quite opaque, effectively hides the natural color of the brick or tile upon which it may be used.

The process is to mix:

Blood-red stain  1 part
Good red clay  6 parts

Add water until the mixture becomes about the consistency of cream, then with a sponge force the liquid two or three times through a very fine brass wire lawn, No. 80, and dip the goods in the liquid as soon as they are pressed or molded.

Blue Paviors.
—Blue paving bricks may be produced with almost any kind of clay that will stand a fair amount of heat, by adopting the same methods as in the former case of blood-red bricks, that is, the clay may be stained throughout, or an outside coating may be applied.
Stain For Blue Paviors.—
Ground ironstone 20 parts
Chromate of iron  5 parts
Manganese  6 parts
Oxide of nickel  1 part

Use 1 part clay and 1 part stain for coating, and 50 or 60 parts clay and 1 part stain for staining through.

Fire blue paviors very hard.

Buff Terra-cotta Slip.—
Buff fire clay 16 parts
China clay  6 parts
Yellow ocher  3 parts
Ball clay 10 parts
Flint  4 parts

Add water to the materials after mixing well, pass through the fine lawn, and dip the goods when soft in the liquid.

Transparent Glaze.—
Ground flint glass 4 parts
Ground white lead 4 parts
Ground oxide of zinc   1/4 part

This glaze is suitable for bricks or tiles made of very good red clay, the natural color of the clay showing through the glaze. The goods must first be fired sufficiently hard to make them durable, afterwards glazed, and fired again. The glaze being comparatively soft will fuse at about half the heat required for the first burning. The glaze may be stained, if desired, with any of the colors given in glazed-brick recipes, in the following proportions: Stain, 1 part; glaze, 1 part.

Special Recipes For Pottery And Brick and Tile Works:

Vitrifiable Bodies.
—The following mixtures will flux only at a very high heat. They require no glaze when a proper heat is attained, and they are admirably adapted for stoneware glazes.
I.— Cornwall stone 20 parts
Feldspar 12 parts
China clay  3 parts
Whiting  2 parts
Plaster of Paris  1 1/2 parts
II.— Feldspar 30 parts
Flint  9 parts
Stone  8 parts
China clay  3 parts
III.— Feldspar 20 parts
Stone  5 parts
Oxide of zinc  3 parts
Whiting  2 parts
Plaster of Paris  1 part
Soda crystals, dissolved  1 part
Special Glazes For Bricks Or Pottery At One Burning.
—To run these glazes intense heat is required.
I.— Cornwall stone  40 parts
Flint   7 parts
Paris white   4 parts
Ball clay  15 parts
Oxide of zinc   6 parts
White lead  15 parts
II.— Feldspar  20 parts
Cornwall stone   5 parts
Oxide of zinc   3 parts
Flint   3 parts
Lynn sand   1 1/2 parts
Sulphate barytes   1 1/2 parts
III.— Feldspar  25 parts
Cornwall stone   6 parts
Oxide of zinc   2 parts
China clay   2 parts
IV.— Cornwall stone 118 parts
Feldspar  40 parts
Paris white  28 parts
Flint   4 parts
V.— Feldspar  16 parts
China clay   4 parts
Stone   4 parts
Oxide of zinc   2 parts
Plaster of Paris   1 part
VI.— Feldspar  10 parts
Stone   5 parts
Flint   2 parts
Plaster    ․1/2 part

The following glaze is excellent for bricks in the biscuit and pottery, which require an easy firing:

White.—
White lead 20 parts
Stone  9 parts
Flint  9 parts
Borax  4 parts
Oxide of zinc  2 parts
Feldspar  3 parts

These materials should be procured finely ground, and after being thoroughly mixed should be placed in a fire-clay crucible, and be fired for 5 or 6 hours, sharply, or until the material runs down into a liquid, then with a pair of iron tongs draw the crucible from the kiln and pour the liquid into a bucket of cold water, grind the flux to an extremely fine powder, and spread a coating upon the plate to be enameled, previously brushing a little gum thereon. The plate must then be fired until a sufficient heat is attained to run or fuse the powder.

Pottery Bodies And Glazes:

Ordinary.—
I.— China clay 2 1/2 parts
Stone 1 1/2 parts
Bone 3 parts
II.— China clay 5 parts
Stone 2 1/2 parts
Bone 7 parts
Barytes 3 parts
III.— Chain clay 5 parts
Stone 3 parts
Flint   1/4 part
Barytes 8 parts
Superior.—
I.— China clay 35 parts
Cornwall stone 23 parts
Bone 40 parts
Flint  2 parts
II.— China clay 35 parts
Cornwall stone  8 parts
Bone 50 parts
Flint  3 parts
Blue clay  4 parts
III.— China clay  8 parts
Cornwall stone 40 parts
Bone 29 parts
Flint  5 parts
Blue clay 18 parts
IV.— China clay 32 parts
Cornwall stone 23 parts
Bone 34 parts
Flint  6 parts
Blue clay  5 parts
V.— China clay  7 parts
Stone 40 parts
Bone 28 parts
Flint  5 parts
Blue clay 20 parts
Finest China Bodies.—
I.— China clay 20 parts
Bone 60 parts
Feldspar 20 parts
II.— China clay 30 parts
Bone 40 parts
Feldspar 30 parts
III.— China clay 25 parts
Stone 10 parts
Bone 45 parts
Feldspar 20 parts
IV.— China clay 30 parts
Stone 15 parts
Bone 35 parts
Feldspar 20 parts
Earthenware Bodies.—
I.— Ball clay 13 parts
China clay  9 1/2 parts
Flint  5 1/2 parts
Cornwall stone  4 parts
II.— Ball clay 12 1/2 parts
China clay  8 parts
Flint  5 1/2 parts
Cornwall stone  2 1/2 parts
One pint of cobalt stain to 1 ton of glaze.
III.— Ball clay 13 1/4 parts
China clay 11 parts
Flint  4 parts
Cornwall stone  5 parts
Feldspar  4 parts
Stain as required.
IV.— Ball clay 18 1/2 parts
China clay 13 1/2 parts
Flint  8 1/2 parts
Stone  4 parts
Blue stain, 2 pints to ton.
V.— Ball clay 15 parts
China clay 12 parts
Flint  6 parts
Stone  4 parts
Feldspar  4 parts
Blue stain, 2 pints to ton.
VI. (Parian).—
Stone 11 parts
Feldspar 10 parts
China clay  8 parts

Colored Bodies:

Ivory Body.—