122. DESCRIPTION.

a. Wheels have drop center rims to accommodate 4.00 x 18 tires. Front and rear wheels are not interchangeable. Front wheel hub is of ball‐bearing design, having cone adjustment similar to that of a bicycle hub. Rear wheel hub is of roller‐bearing design and must be taken apart for adjustment. Both wheels have “knock‐out” type axles.

123. TIRES.

a. Description. Wheel rims are of the drop‐center type, having a depression, or well, in center of rim. The rim well, being smaller in circumference than the rest of the rim, allows one casing bead to fit loosely in it while other bead is being worked over edge of rim. Bear in mind the importance of keeping one bead in rim well while other bead is being worked onto or off rim. NOTE: It is not always necessary to completely remove casing from rim. Removing one side only allows inner tube to be removed and reinstalled, and also allows inside of casing to be inspected.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove wheel from vehicle and lay wheel on its side. To remove front wheel, refer to paragraph 125. To remove rear wheel, refer to paragraph 127.

(2) Remove valve cap and valve core to free all air from tube.

(3) Press casing head into rim well to within a short distance of each side of valve.

(4) Using tire iron “B” in vehicle kit (fig. 11), start bead over edge of rim at valve. Do not use force when starting bead over edge of rim with tire iron, because bead wires may be broken or stretched, and tire ruined. With first bead in rim well, bead on other side can be started easily over edge of rim. After a portion of second bead is started over rim edge, casing can be further removed from wheel without aid of tire iron.

c. Install. Before applying casing to rim, see that rubber rim strip is in place in rim well and that rim strip valve hole alines with valve hole in rim.

(1) Start either bead of casing over rim edge. Work around wheel until entire bead is on rim.

(2) Place inner tube in casing. NOTE: Inner tube may be placed in casing before or after first bead of casing is on rim. Insert valve stem through hole in rim and start valve stem lock nut. While pressing first bead into rim well, work remaining bead over edge of rim, starting directly opposite valve stem. Work both ways around wheel toward valve.

(3) Inflate front tire to 18 pounds, and rear tire to 20 pounds.

(4) Reinstall front wheel (par. 125): reinstall wheel (par. 127). CAUTION: Tire casings are balanced and must be applied to rim with balance mark located at valve stem. On Firestone tires the balance mark is a red triangle, and on Goodyear tires a red dot.

124. RIMS AND SPOKES.

a. Wheels with broken and or missing spokes, with rims in badly kinked and or distorted condition, or having considerable run‐out, must be replaced.

b. Loose wheel spokes must be tightened evenly, being careful not to distort rim out‐of‐round or cause run‐out. Use spoke nipple wrench (41–W–3339) for front wheel spokes, and wrench (41–W–3340) for rear wheel spokes.

125. FRONT WHEEL REPLACEMENT (fig. 81).

a. Remove.

(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Raise front end of vehicle by blocking up under frame loop on skid plate.

(2) Remove brake shackle bolt from rigid fork on left side of vehicle.

(3) Front axle is knock‐out type. Remove cotter pin and axle castle nut and pull out axle. Wheel is free for removal. CAUTION: Before removing axle note how slot in brake stabilizer plate is fitted over the extended (button) end of the left‐front rocker plate stud. It is necessary that this be correctly assembled when replacing front wheel.

(4) Roll wheel forward and remove brake assembly from brake drum, leaving the assembly attached to brake control wire and control wire housing.

b. Install (fig. 81). NOTE: At the time wheel and brake assembly is located in front fork, and before axle is installed, make sure that the curved slot in brake stabilizer plate engages with the button end of the left‐front rocker plate stud.

(1) Install brake assembly in brake drum.

(2) Roll wheel into position. Engage stabilizer plate notch and rocker plate stud button end, and at same time insert front axle.

(3) Install castle nut (no lock washer used) on axle and securely tighten.

(6) Check front brake control wire and housing to make sure everything is in order and correctly adjusted (par. 97).

(7) Remove blocking from under vehicle.

126. FRONT WHEEL HUB ADJUSTMENT.

a. Front wheel, ball‐bearing hub, is similar to a bicycle front hub as far as adjustment is concerned. Do not completely disassemble hub for adjustment as balls are not in retainers, and will fall out when cone is removed. Hub is provided with grease deflector sleeve and felt retainer. NOTE: Earlier models are not equipped with grease deflector sleeve or felt retainer washer. Front wheel should have slight play or shake on bearings, and should turn freely.

(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125).

(2) Back off cone lock nut to end of axle sleeve. Do not remove nut.

(3) Turn cone on axle sleeve to the right (clockwise) to take up wheel play, and to the left (counterclockwise) to give more wheel play. Adjust so that wheel has slight play on bearing.

(4) Tighten cone lock nut. After tightening nut, again try for slight wheel play on bearing. Sometimes tightening lock nut takes up on bearing play. If necessary, readjust for desired results when cone lock nut is tight.

(5) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125).

(6) Check adjustment of front brake.

127. REAR WHEEL REPLACEMENT (figs. 83 and 84).

a. Remove.

(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.

(2) Release mudguard rear stays. Loosen mounting nuts, and raise end of mudguard for wheel clearance.

(3) Remove the five wheel mounting socket screws which secure wheel hub to brake shell and sprocket assembly. Use vehicle kit wrench “S” and sleeve (handle) “C” (fig. 11). NOTE: Wrench can be inserted from left side through holes in hub, and wheel must be turned to bring each mounting screw directly to the rear of axle for accessibility.

(4) Use brake rod lock to set and lock brake to prevent brake shell and sprocket from coming off brake assembly while wheel is being removed. Apply brake pedal and shift brake rod lock against tool box bracket, securing lock in this position with wing nut (fig. 84).

(5) Remove axle nut (right side of vehicle), using vehicle kit wrench “J” (fig. 11).

(6) Pull out axle from left side of vehicle.

(7) Remove spacer from between wheel hub end and left side of frame.

(8) Wheel is now free to come out by pulling and working it away from dowel pins located in brake shell assembly. A wheel being removed for the first time may offer some resistance. It will be observed that chain, sprocket, and brake assembly remain in the vehicle frame.

b. Install (figs. 83 and 84).

(1) Position wheel on brake shell dowel pins. Work hub onto dowels as far as it will go.

(2) Install axle spacer at left end of hub so that axle will pass through it and the hub.

(3) Install axle from left side of vehicle. Pass it through sleeve and hub, with end of axle engaging the frame left axle clip notch.

(4) See that lock washer is in place. Turn on and securely tighten axle nut, using vehicle kit wrench “J” (fig. 11).

(5) Loosen wing nut clamping brake rod lock. Move brake rod lock forward so that it will not strike any object when brake is operated; tighten wing nut to retain in position (fig. 84).

(6) Install and securely tighten the five wheel mounting socket screws.

(7) Lower mudguard into position and attach ends of rear stays. Securely tighten the clamping nuts.