59. ADJUST FRONT CHAIN (figs. 36, 37, and 38).

a. At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par. 61).

b. Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making tight and loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and chain rotated to position of least slack at the time adjustment is made.

c. A correctly adjusted front chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up‐and‐down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection hole. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action and/or strike the chain guard.

d. Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on its mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control linkage, clutch control linkage, and rear chain.

e. How to Adjust Front Chain.

(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover from front outer chain guard, exposing chain (fig. 36).

(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of least slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with finger. Use a free up‐and‐down motion of the finger to make this test.

(3) Loosen the three transmission mounting stud nuts underneath transmission mounting base. (It is not necessary to drop skid plate to reach stud nuts (fig. 37).) Transmission can now be shifted on its mounting base by means of adjusting screw, head of which protrudes through notch of frame fitting, located at rear of transmission (fig. 38).

(8) Check shifter lever control linkage adjustment (par. 54).

(9) Check clutch control linkage adjustment (par. 48).

60. ADJUST REAR CHAIN AND ALINE REAR WHEEL (fig. 39).

a. In moving transmission backward on its mounting to tighten front chain, the rear chain will be loosened. Rear chain must then be adjusted by moving rear wheel backward. When rear wheel is moved either forward or backward, adjustment of the rear wheel brake is affected.

b. When checking rear chain for slack midway between the sprockets, turn wheel and rotate chain to position of least slack. Use free up‐and‐down movement of finger to lift chain and depress it to determine tightest position.

d. At the time rear chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct lubrication and if necessary, adjust rear chain oiler (par. 61).

e. Rear chain adjustment and rear wheel alinement are both made by means of the rear wheel adjusting screws. Therefore, adjustment of either the chain or the wheel alinement can affect adjustment of the other, making it necessary to consider both adjustments at the same time.

(1) Remove rear axle nut and lock washer (right side of vehicle).

(2) Loosen brake sleeve nut enough to allow brake assembly to slide backward or forward in frame mounting (fig. 39).

(3) Loosen the two (right and left side) rear wheel adjusting screw lock nuts.

(4) Turn wheel adjusting screws clockwise (to right) to move wheel and sprocket backward. This tightens chain. NOTE: If chain is too tight, turn wheel adjusting screws counterclockwise (to left) so that wheel can be shifted forward. This will loosen chain. Always turn the two wheel adjusting screws an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel alined.

(5) Check correct alinement of wheel by noting that tire (not tire rim) runs approximately midway between lower rear frame tubes at the point where tubes join transmission mounting. It is desirable to have tire run slightly closer (not more than ¹⁄₁₆ in.) to right than to left side lower tube. A further check of alinement is observing that rear sprocket runs centrally in chain. CAUTION: If rear wheel is not correctly alined, vehicle steering will be affected, and sprockets will wear excessively on one side.

(6) With adjustment of chain and wheel alinement completed, securely tighten wheel adjusting screw lock nuts, and brake sleeve nut: replace axle lock washer and nut, tightening nut.

(7) Recheck adjustment of chain as tightening brake sleeve nut and axle nut sometimes changes the chain adjustment.

(8) After tightening rear chain, rear brake may be found too tight. Check and correct brake adjustment (par. 96).

61. CHAIN OILERS (fig. 40).

a. Both front and rear chains are automatically lubricated by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied operating conditions. Chains under most operating conditions require a very small amount of oil; therefore, chain oilers require very fine adjustment to supply just enough oil without waste.

b. When adjusting chain oilers, it is advisable to add or remove only one thin washer at a time and inspect chain again after vehicle has run approximately 100 miles, to determine whether or not further adjustment is necessary.

c. If inspection of front chain through inspection hole reveals that chain is not getting enough oil, adjust front chain oiler as follows:

(1) Add thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head of screw.

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

d. Evidence of too much oil on front chain requires cutting down on chain oiler.

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

e. If inspection reveals that rear chain is not getting enough oil, and that oil pipe end is open, is not bent, and is directed on chain; then the rear chain oiler must be adjusted.

(1) Adjust oiler by adding thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head of screw.

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

f. Evidence of too much oil on rear chain (supplied by oiler) requires cutting down on chain oiler.

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

g. At 1000–mile intervals, loosen both front and rear chain oiler adjusting screws (fig. 40) two turns each. Do not remove screws. Start and idle engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not force. This operation serves to flush oiler control valves and rear chain oiler pipe.

62. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT CHAIN.

a. A new or original duplex front chain is endless, not provided with connecting link, and engine sprocket must be removed in order to remove or replace chain.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65). Chain can now be lifted off clutch sprocket.

c. Install. When installing a new front chain and/or sprocket, it may be necessary to shift transmission ahead in order to get chain on (par. 59 e).

(1) Clean engine shaft taper and sprocket hole.

(2) Place chain on clutch sprocket teeth and install sprocket (par. 65).

(3) Check chain adjustment (par. 59).

(4) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

63. REPLACEMENT OF REAR CHAIN (fig. 41).

a. Remove. Support vehicle on rear stand. With transmission in “N” (neutral) position, turn rear wheel until chain connecting link is located on rear sprocket teeth, about straight back from axle.

(1) Using pliers, lift split end of connecting link spring clip out of link pin notch, taking care not to damage spring clip. Remove spring clip from other link pin notch.

(2) Pull off link side plate and push link out of chain ends. Replace connecting link and spring clip in one end of chain to prevent its loss.

b. Install. When installing a new rear chain and/or countershaft sprocket, it may be necessary to set rear wheel ahead in order to get chain on (par. 60).

(1) Start end of chain over countershaft sprocket teeth, using starter crank to turn sprocket. After chain end has reached front half of sprocket, it will be necessary to guide end under sprocket and out of sprocket cover. Center chain so that ends engage rear sprocket teeth, back of the axle.

(2) Install connecting link, side plate and spring clip. See that open end of spring clip is to the rear with regard to chain travel (like the end of an arrow). If original spring clip is bent or damaged, use a new one.

(3) Adjust rear chain (par. 60).

(4) Check rear brake adjustment (par. 96).

64. CHAIN REPAIR TOOL (fig 42).

a. Damaged or broken chain links can be replaced with connecting (repair) links after bad links have been removed. To remove damaged or broken link, push out chain side plate pins with the chain repair tool (41–T–3320). Front chain is a double row of duplex chain; rear chain is a single row chain. The chain tool furnished in the tool kit is designed to accommodate both. To put a connecting link in the front chain, it will be necessary to remove front chain guard (par. 102).

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove engine sprocket nut (right‐hand thread). It will be necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.

(3) Give flat surface of engine sprocket, near outer edge, a light but sharp rap with a hammer, being careful not to strike and damage sprocket teeth. Take care not to lose sprocket shaft key.

b. Install. If new sprocket is being installed, it may be necessary to shift transmission forward to get chain to fit on sprockets (par. 59).

(1) Thoroughly clean engine shaft taper and see that key is in place. Clean sprocket taper hole, fit front chain on sprocket teeth, and rotate chain until keyway in sprocket lines up with key in engine shaft. Slip sprocket onto engine shaft, install nut, and tighten securely. Strike wrench with a hammer to make sure sprocket nut is very tight.

(2) Install front outer chain guard (par. 102).

66. REPLACEMENT OF COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).

(2) Remove starter crank spring (par. 56).

(3) Remove countershaft sprocket cover (par. 52).

(4) Bend back extension of sprocket nut lock.

(5) Remove sprocket retaining nut. It will be necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.

(6) Give sprocket a light but sharp rap with a hammer near outer edge, being careful not to strike the sprocket teeth, and remove sprocket from shaft taper. Do not lose the two sprocket shaft keys.

b. Install.

(1) Clean shaft taper and taper hole in countershaft sprocket. Install the two keys.

(2) Install sprocket on shaft. Place rear chain on sprocket before installing sprocket cover.

(3) Examine nut lock and, if badly damaged, use a new one.

(4) Install sprocket retaining nut. Tighten by striking wrench with a hammer. NOTE: This nut must be tight. Bend up extension of nut lock against side of nut.

(5) It will be easier to install starter crank spring at this step to avoid interference with sprocket cover.

(6) Install sprocket cover.

(7) Install starter crank.