47. DESCRIPTION (fig. 21).

a. Clutch is of simple multiple‐dry‐disk type, having two steel disks and three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within disk pack to “cushion” clutch operation.

48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT (figs. 22, 23, 24, and 25).

a. If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will cause very little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life of transmission gear shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely, control linkage and spring tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension before correcting control adjustment.

b. Clutch Control Linkage (fig. 22). Operation of foot pedal, control cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod through hollow transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at will. Correct adjustment to control cable and release lever must be made before push rod adjustment is made.

c. Clutch Control Adjustment (figs. 23, 24, 25, and 26).

(1) Adjusting Cable Length. With clutch in fully disengaged position (foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by ¹⁄₁₆ inch. Should clutch release lever strike sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement is restricted, and clutch cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control cable must be adjusted to obtain ¹⁄₁₆–inch clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud and/or nut clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch control cable, cable adjustable end must be removed from foot pedal stud (figs. 23 and 24). With foot pedal in forward (toe down) position, remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable end. Release other end of cable from notch in clutch release lever by pressing release lever inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the foot pedal to rear (heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off foot pedal stud. Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to shorten cable; turn to left (counter‐clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and cotter pin, and install other end of cable in clutch release lever notch.

(2) Adjusting Clearance of Clutch Release Lever and Push Rod (fig. 25). With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance correctly adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have between ¹⁄₈–inch and ¼–inch free play at end where control cable engages lever notch (fig. 25). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch without pressure on clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means of push rod adjusting screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two screws which secure inspection hole cover to chain guard (fig. 25). If clutch release lever has less than ¹⁄₈–inch free play at end of cable, loosen push rod adjusting screw lock nut and turn push rod adjusting screw to the left (counter‐clockwise) to increase amount of free play. If clutch release lever has more than ¼–inch free play at end of cable, turn adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to decrease amount of free play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is obtained. Replace inspection hole cover. CAUTION: If end of clutch release lever has no free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when fully engaged. If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when disengaged; consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash, and eventually become damaged.

d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension (fig. 26). If clutch slips (does not hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation) after controls have been correctly adjusted (step c (1) and (3) above), spring tension must be increased. NOTE: Do not increase spring tension any more than actually required to make clutch hold.

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts.

(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension. Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one‐half turn at a time, until clutch holds. Test clutch after each half‐turn of the three adjusting nuts by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the road.

(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock lips to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged locks.

(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the distance from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of outer (releasing) disk is 1–3/32 inches (fig. 27). In any case, do not tighten the three adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge of shoulder of spring collar is closer than ⅞ inch to face of outer (releasing) disk. If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully disengaged.

(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring tension adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be replaced (par. 49).

(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front chain guard (par. 102).

49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. 28, 29, and 30).

a. Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or replacing. Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing without disturbing sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is advisable to remove releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an assembly because it is difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and reassemble springs in this unit. If springs show signs of overheating, and appear to be “set,” they should be removed, measured, and replaced if necessary (par. 50).

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat washer, approximately ¹⁄₈–inch thick, 1¾–inch in diameter with a ⅜–inch center hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace adjusting screw lock nut just removed (fig. 28). Tighten adjusting screw lock nut against large washer until the three clutch spring adjusting nuts are free. Bend nut lock down, remove the three adjusting nuts, and withdraw releasing (outer) disk and spring assembly as one unit. Remaining lined and plain steel disks can now be removed from sprocket and clutch shell unit without further disassembly (fig. 30). NOTE: At time lined and plain disks are removed from shell, observe relative position of each disk in order of correct assembly.

50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS.

a. Worn Disk Liners. When disk liners are worn down flush (or nearly flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be replaced.

b. Loose Liner Rivets. If disk liner rivets are loose, replace disk and liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order.

c. Oil‐soaked Disk Liners. If lined disks are not badly worn, but are oil‐soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and dry with air or heat.

d. Shrunken or Weak Springs. If clutch has been badly overheated as a result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or weakened condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened springs are indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been tightened to make the clutch hold until the distance between spring collar and releasing (outer) disk is ⅞ inch. If shrunken or weak springs are suspected, remove them for inspection.

(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut, freeing spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer) disk assembly.

(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs is approximately 1½ inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch). Old springs found to be shrunk ¹⁄₈ inch (total free length of spring is 1⅜ inch or less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: Before replacing springs, select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32 inch to make up the assembly.

(3) Assembling Releasing Disk, Springs, and Spring Collar. Place the 10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each of the 10 stud holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends of springs, locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the springs. Place the large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten adjusting screw nut, and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over and observe alinement of springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert a ⅜–inch rod through holes to aline springs. Tighten down adjusting screw nut; assembly is now ready for complete clutch assembly.

51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. 30, 29, and 28).

a. It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a lined disk. Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices are staggered on splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined on one side) is the last of the pack, its lined side facing the steel disk. Before installing disks, see that bearing retaining plate lock rings (“R,” fig. 21) are in place on the short studs, and are tight against the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the clutch.

(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first.

(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward.

(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs.

(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side facing outward.

(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on clutch hub studs.

(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded‐end, clutch hub studs are not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted that the three holes (keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not spaced equidistantly. Therefore, when installing releasing disk and spring assembly on clutch hub studs, the three threaded studs and holes in spring collar must be alined. Install assembly on studs, replace the three nut locks, replace the three adjusting nuts, and tighten all three evenly until the distance between shoulder of spring collar and face of releasing disk is 1–1/32 inch (fig. 27).

(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been installed.

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct according to paragraph 48.

52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (fig. 31).

a. Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push rod assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk.

b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing. Engage clutch fully (foot pedal toe down) and disengage clutch control cable end from slotted end of clutch release lever.

(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to transmission countershaft sprocket cover.

(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission.

(3) Remove filler plug.

(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver.

(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release bearing is exposed.

(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from transmission shaft.

c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.

(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into transmission shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is clean and well greased.

(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts.

(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain oiler pipe clamp to sprocket cover.

(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release lever.

(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable.