CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.
PAGE
Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of the Orient17
Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times18
Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by Herodotus19
Pliny's account of olibanum20
Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of the sweet-scented ointment "myron"21
Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments; Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome22
Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments; Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides23
Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers24
Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by the Romans25
Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages; Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, and of Guy de Chanlios26
Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici and Margaret of Valois27
Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century28
Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats of the French perfumery industry29
Privileges of the parfumeurs-gantiers in France; Use of perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling him into matrimony30
CHAPTER II.
THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants31
Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the cultivation of plants32
Volatile oils and their properties33
Principal divisions of volatile oils34
Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils35
Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression36
Clarification of the oil37
Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described38
Distillation39
Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described40
Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated and described41
Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and described46
Separator-funnel, illustrated and described47
Extraction48
Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described49
Heyl's distilling apparatus57
Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats used in the maceration process58
Huiles antiques; Old French process of maceration; Piver's maceration apparatus, illustrated and described59
Flowers for which maceration is employed; Absorption or enfleurage60
Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated and described61
Flowers for which the absorption process is employed; Storage of volatile oils65
CHAPTER III.
TESTING VOLATILE OILS.
Extensive adulteration of volatile oils; Testing volatile oils as to odor and taste66
Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil67
Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine; Dragendorff's test68
Hager's tannin test69
Detection of chloroform; Detection of benzine71
Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine72
Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids73
Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality; Test with iodine74
Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test75
Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen towards nitroprusside of copper76
Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test; Hager's guaiacum reaction78
Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum reaction79
Hübl's iodine method80
A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye81
Utilization of Maumené's test by F. R. Williams82
Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil83
CHAPTER IV.
THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.
Acacia oil or oil of cassie; Almond oil (bitter)87
Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection90
Angelica oil92
Anise-seed oil93
Star anise oil94
Balm oil; Basil oil; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves96
Bergamot oil; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity97
Cajeput oil98
Camomile or chamomile oil; Blue camomile oil; Green camomile oil99
Caraway oil; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil100
Cedar oil; Cherry-laurel oil101
Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil; Cinnamon oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil102
Cassia oil103
Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves; Quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil104
Detection of adulterations in cassia oil; Citron oil106
Detection of adulterations in citron oil; Citronella oil; Detection of adulterations in citronella oil107
Oil of cloves108
Test for the value of oil of cloves109
Eucalyptus oil110
Fennel oil111
Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil; East Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils112
Adulterations of geranium oils; Jasmine oil, or oil of jessamine113
Juniper oil114
Lavender oil; Spike oil115
Detection of adulterations of lavender oil; Lemon oil; Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil116
Écuelle process117
Distillation; Apparatus combining the écuelle and distilling processes, illustrated and described118
Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection: Lilac oil; Oil of limes121
Licari oil, linaloë oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil122
Mignonette oil; Myrrh oil123
Nutmeg oils; Mace oil; Adulterations of mace oil and their detection124
Opopanax oil; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of Portugal; Mandarin oil125
Orange-flower oil or neroli oil; Neroli Portugal oil; Cultivation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of orange blossoms; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers126
Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection127
Petit-grain oil; Oil of orris root129
Patchouli oil130
Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil131
Peppermint oil; Oil of curled mint; Peppermint oil and its varieties132
American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of distinguishing American, German, and English oils of peppermint133
Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection134
Poley oil135
Pimento oil or oil of allspice; Rose oil or attar of roses; Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s, of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from indigenous roses136
The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria; Methods of gathering and distilling the roses137
Characteristics of pure rose oil138
Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil; Process for the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil139
Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil140
Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil employed in Bulgaria141
Adulterants of rose oil142
Tests for rose oil; Approximate quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil143
Rosemary oil; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil144
Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil145
Thyme oil147
Oil of turpentine; Austrian oil of turpentine; German oil of turpentine; French oil of turpentine; Venetian oil of turpentine148
American oil of turpentine; Pine oil; Dwarf pine oil; Krummholz or Latschenoel; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil (Kienoel); Balsam-pine oil149
Oil of verbena; Oil of violet; Vitivert or vetiver oil150
Wintergreen oil151
Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate152
Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection; Ylang-ylang oil153
Cananga oil154
CHAPTER V.
RESINS AND BALSAMS.
Elementary constituents of resins; Division of resins; Hard resins; Soft resins or balsams; Gum-resins155
Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom; Benzoin156
Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics157
Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it159
White Peru balsam160
Characteristics of Peru balsam161
Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection162
Tolu balsam and its characteristics166
A new variety of Tolu balsam167
Storax; Liquid storax and its characteristics168
Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection170
Storax in grains; Ordinary storax171
American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam, or liquid-ambar; Myrrh172
Myrrha electa and its characteristics173
Constitution of myrrh174
Adulteration of myrrh and its detection175
Opopanax; Olibanum or frankincense176
Commercial varieties of olibanum; Sandarac and its characteristics177
CHAPTER VI.
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.
Musk and its varieties; Musk sacs, illustrated and described178
Characteristics of Tonkin musk180
Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine musk181
Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer; Artificial musk182
Adulterations of musk and their detection183
Civet184
Castor and its varieties185
Adulterations of castor; Ambergris186
Constituents of ambergris187
Adulterations of ambergris188
CHAPTER VII.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS.
Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouchardat
and Lafont189
Cumarin, its occurrence and properties190
Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce191
Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans; Artificial preparation of cumarin from salicylic acid192
Synthetical preparation of cumarin; Heliotropin or piperonal and its characteristics193
Preparation of heliotropin194
Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla195
Artificial preparation of vanillin196
Characteristics of vanillin197
Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection; Nitrobenzol198
Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane; adulteration of nitrobenzol and its detection199
Fruit ethers and their characteristics200
Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use; Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation201
Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation204
Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate; Preparation of butyric acid205
Preparation of butyric ether207
St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of butyric ether209
Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation210
Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according to Kopp's method211
Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America212
Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation214
Valerianic ethyl ether; Apple ether; Apricot ether; Cherry ether; Pear ether; Pineapple ether; Strawberry ether; Preparation of fruit essences; Apple essence; Apricot essence216
Cherry essence; Currant essence; Grape essence; Lemon essence; Melon essence; Orange essence; Peach essence; Pear essence; Pineapple essence; Plum essence217
Raspberry essence; Strawberry essence218
CHAPTER VIII.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.
Division of alcoholic perfumes; What constitutes the art of the perfumer; Qualities of flower-pomades and their designation219
Storage of flower-pomades; Extraction of flower-pomades220
Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades, illustrated and described221
Beyer frères improved apparatus, illustrated and described223
Tinctures and extracts and their preparation225
Beyer frères apparatus for the preparation of tinctures, illustrated and described226
Musk tincture; Civet tincture228
Ambergris tincture; Castor tincture; Benzoin tincture; Peru balsam tincture; Tolu balsam tincture229
Olibanum tincture; Opopanax tincture; Storax tincture; Myrrh tincture; Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture230
Angelica root tincture; Orris-root tincture; Musk-root or sumbul-root tincture; Tonka-bean tincture231
Cumarin tincture; Heliotropin tincture; Vanilla tincture; Vanillin tincture232
Vitivert tincture; Juniper-berry tincture; Patchouli extract233
Tinctures from volatile oils; Almond-oil (bitter) tincture; Balm-oil tincture; Bergamot-oil tincture; Canango-oil tincture234
Cassia-oil tincture; Cedar-oil tincture; Cinnamon-oil tincture; Citronella-oil tincture; Clove-oil tincture; Eucalyptus-oil tincture; Geranium-oil tincture; Lavender-oil tincture; Lemon-grass-oil tincture; Lemon-oil tincture; Licari-oil tincture; Myrrh-oil tincture; Neroli-oil tincture; Opopanax-oil tincture; Orris-root-oil tincture; Patchouli-oil tincture235
Petit-grain-oil tincture; Pine-leaf-oil tincture; Portugal-oil tincture; Sandal-wood-oil tincture; Verbena-oil tincture; Vitivert-oil tincture; Wintergreen-oil tincture; Ylang-ylang-oil tincture; Rose-oil tincture236
Extraits aux fleurs; Extrait acacia; Extrait cassie; Extrait héliotrope; Extrait jacinthe237
Extrait jasmin; Essence of the odor of linden blossoms; Extrait jonquille; Extrait magnolia; Extrait muguet (lily of the valley); Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers)238
Extrait ixora; Extrait orange; Extrait white rose; Extrait rose v. d. centifolie; Extrait violette; Coloring substance for extraits; Extrait de violette de Parme239
Extrait tubereuse; Extrait réséda; Extrait ylang-ylang; Compound odors (bouquets); Extrait Edelweiss; Extrait ess-bouquet240
Extrait spring flower; Extrait bouquet Eugenie; Extrait excelsior; Extrait Frangipani; Extrait jockey club241
Extrait opopanax; Extrait patchouli; Extrait millefleurs; Extrait bouquet Victoria242
Extrait kiss-me-quick; Extrait mogadore; Extrait bouquet Prince Albert; Extrait muse; Extrait new-mown hay; Extrait chypre243
Extrait maréchal; Extrait mousseline; Extraits triple concentrés and their preparations244
Concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits d'Odeurs; Extraits d'Odeurs, quality II245
Extrait violette II; Extrait rose II; Extrait réséda II; Extrait ylang-ylang II246
Extrait new-mown hay II; Extrait chypre II; Extrait ess-bouquet II247
Extrait muguet II; Extrait bouquet Victoria II; Extrait spring flower II; Extrait ixora II248
Extrait Frangipani II; Cologne water (eau de Cologne) and its preparation249
Durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of Cologne water250
Cologne water, quality I252
Cologne water, quality II; Cologne water, quality III; Cologne water, quality IV; Cologne water, quality V253
Maiglöckchen eau de Cologne; Various other receipts for Cologne water254
Eau de Lavande; Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée; Eau de Lavande double; Aqua mellis; Eau de Lisbonne255
CHAPTER IX.
DRY PERFUMES.
Use of dry perfumes in ancient times; Sachet powders and their preparation256
Sachet à la rose; Sachet à la violette; Hliotrope sachet powder; Ylang-ylang sachet powder; Jockey club sachet257
Sachet aux millefleurs; Lily of the valley sachet powder; Patchouli sachet powder; Frangipani sachet powder; Victoria sachet powder; Réséda sachet powder258
Musk sachet powder; Ess-bouquet sachet powder; New-mown hay sachet powder; Orange sachet powder; Solid perfumes with paraffine; White rose259
Ess-bouquet; Lavender odor; Eau de Cologne; Smelling salts; Preston salt and "menthol pungent" as prepared by William W. Bartlett; White smelling salt260
CHAPTER X.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC.
Constitution of fumigating agents; Object of fumigating;
Prejudice against fumigating; Mode of fumigating262
Atomizers; Objections to dry fumigating agents263
Fumigating essences and vinegars; Rose-flower fumigating essence; Flower fumigating essence—héliotrope264
Violet-flower fumigating essence; Oriental flower fumigating essence; Pine odor (for atomizing); Juniper odor; fumigating balsam265
Fumigating water; Fumigating vinegar; Fumigating powders; Ordinary fumigating powder266
Rose fumigating powder; Violet fumigating powder; Orange fumigating powder; New-mown hay fumigating powder267
Fumigating paper; Fumigating pastilles268
Ordinary red fumigating pastilles; Ordinary black fumigating pastilles; Musk fumigating pastilles269
Rose fumigating pastilles; Violet fumigating pastilles; Millefleurs fumigating pastilles; Fumigating lacquer270
CHAPTER XI.
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC.
Selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices272
Soap as a constituent of dentifrices; Value of thymol for dentifrices; Object of glycerin in dentifrices273
Tooth and mouth waters; Thymol tooth-water; Eau dentifrice Botot; Eau dentifrice Orientale274
Violet mouth-water; Antiseptic gargle; Odontine; Sozodont; Eau de Botot (improved)275
Quinine tooth-water; Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture; Esprit de menthe; Arnica tooth-tincture; Myrrh tooth-tincture276
Tooth-pastes and tooth-powders; tooth-paste or odontine277
Thymol tooth-paste; Cherry tooth-paste; Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste; Odontine paste278
Thymol tooth-powder; Poudre dentifrice; Violet tooth-powder279
Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder; White tooth-powder; Black tooth-powder; Poudre de corail; Camphor tooth-powder; Opiat liquide pour les dents280
Poudre d'Algérine281
Dr. Hufeland's tooth-soap282
Tooth-soap; Saponaceous tooth-wash283
CHAPTER XII.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
Fats used for the preparation of pomades; Reputation of some fats as hair pomades284
Pomades and their preparation; Purification of the fat285
Substances used for coloring pomades; Fine French pomades (flower-pomades); Maceration or extraction of the flowers286
Receipts for some flower-pomades; Pommade à la rose; Pommade à l'acacia; Pommade à la fleur d'orange; Pommade à l'héliotrope287
Pomades according to the German method and their preparation; Foundations for white pomades288
Apple pomade; Bear's grease pomade; Quinine pomades289
Quinine pomades (imitation); Benzoin pomade; Densdorf pomade; Ice pomades; Family pomades290
Strawberry pomade; Fine hair pomade; Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair; Héliotrope pomades291
Jasmine pomade; Emperor pomade; Macassar pomade; Portugal pomade; Herb pomade; Lanolin pomade292
Oriental pomade; Paraffin ice pomade; Neroli pomade; Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white); Mignonette pomade; Castor oil pomades; Princess pomade293
Fine pomade; Beef-marrow pomade; Rogers's pomade for producing a beard; Rose pomade; Fine rose pomade; Finest rose pomade; Salicylic pomade; Victoria pomade; Tonka pomade294
Fine vanilla pomade; Vanilla pomade; Violet pomade; Walnut pomade; Vaseline pomades295
Foundations for vaseline pomades; Bouquet vaseline pomade; Family vaseline pomade; Lily of the valley vaseline pomade; Neroli vaseline pomade296
Mignonette vaseline pomade; Portugal vaseline pomade; Rose vaseline pomades; Fine vaseline pomade (yellow); Vaseline pomade (red); Vaseline pomade (white); Virginia vaseline pomade; Victoria vaseline pomade297
Extra fine vaseline pomade; Stick pomades; Foundations for stick pomades; Manufacture of stick pomades298
Rose-wax pomade; Black-wax pomade; Blonde-wax pomade; Brown-wax pomade299
Cheap wax pomades; Resin pomades; Hair oils; Huiles antiques; Vaseline oil for hair oils; Treatment of oils with benzoin300
Preparation of huiles antiques; Huile antique à la rose; Huile antique au jasmin; Alpine herb oil; Flower hair oil; Peruvian bark hair oil301
Peru hair oil; Burdock root hair oils; Macassar hair oils; Neroli hair oil; Mignonette hair oils; Fine hair oil302
Cheap hair oil (red or yellow); Portugal hair oil; Jasmine hair oil; Vaseline hair oils; Vanilla hair oil; Ylang-ylang hair oil; Philocome hair oil303
Sultana hair oil; Rose hair oil; Tonka hair oil; Violet hair oil; Victoria hair oil; Cheap hair oils; Bandolines and their preparation304
Rose bandoline; Almond bandoline; Brilliantine305
Flower brilliantine No. 1; Brilliantine No. 2306
Brilliantine No. 3; Various formulas for brilliantine307
Hair tonics; Eau Athénienne; Florida water308
Eau de Cologne hair tonic; Eau de quinine309
Eau de quinine (imitation); Honey water; Glycerin hair tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative); Tea hair tonic310
Locock's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo liquid311
Dandruff cures; Dandruff lotion; Bay rum312
Directions for preparing bay rum313
Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual darkening of the hair; Use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter314
Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for dyeing the hair315
Iron salts for dying the hair; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair dye; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair316
Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye; The use of henna as a hair dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black317
Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair; Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen; Formulæ for hair dyes318
Single hair dyes; Teinture Orientale (Karsi); Teinture Chinoise (Kohol)319
Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Walnut hair dye; Pyrogallic hair stain320
Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black; Tannin hair dye321
Melanogène; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom; Copper hair dye; Depilatories; Rhusma322
Boettger's depilatory; Bartholow's depilatory323
CHAPTER XIII.
COSMETICS.
Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully; Vinaigre de toilette à la rose; Vinaigre de toilette à la violette324
Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope; Vinaigre de toilette orange; Vinaigre de toilette; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic vinegar325
Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal); Rose milk (Lait de rose)326
Almond milk (Lait d'amandes amères)327
Lily milk (Lait de lys); Perfumed glycerin with rose odor; Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and pastes; Farin de noisette (nut meal)328
Farin d'amandes amères (almond meal); Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste); Poudre de riz à la rose329
Poudre de riz héliotrope; Poudre de riz orange; Poudre de riz muguet330
Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams and lip salves; Cold cream; Vaseline cold cream331
Glycerin cream; Crême de concombre; Glycerin gelée; Glycerin jelly332
Cream of roses; Boroglycerin cream; Récamier cream; Preparations for chapped hands333
Wash for the hands; Nail powder; Lip-salves334
Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); "Blanc fard" or "Blanc français"335
Mixtures for powders; Coloring substances for powders; Powder for coloring intensely red; Solid paints; Ordinary red paint (rouge)336
Fine red paint (rouge); White paint; Preparation of paints337
Red stick-paint (stick rouge); Moulding the rouge into sticks339
White stick-paint; Rouge en feuilles; Liquid paints; Liquid rouge340
White liquid paint; Fat paints341
Crême de Lys; Crême de rose342
Index343

A PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON THE
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.