The Project Gutenberg eBook of Greece

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Title: Greece

Author: J. A. M'Clymont

Illustrator: John Fulleylove


Release date: November 29, 2014 [eBook #47496]
Most recently updated: October 24, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GREECE ***

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Contents.
List of Illustrations
Index: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Z

(etext transcriber's note)

GREECE

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THE PARTHENON FROM THE PROPYLÆA (EARLY MORNING) The pale golden light on the architraves within the Posticum is reflected from the east side of the west front of the Temple. The scarped rock to the right is the boundary of the precinct of Artemis Brauronia. The drum of a column in the right-hand corner of the drawing represents the southernmost column of the eastern portico of the Propylæa. For obvious artistic reasons the whole column could not be included in the drawing. The pedestal before the column is that of the statue of Athene Hygieia by the sculptor Pyrrhos. Two or three paces in front of it are the remains of a large free-standing altar.

THE PARTHENON FROM THE PROPYLÆA (EARLY MORNING)

The pale golden light on the architraves within the Posticum is reflected from the east side of the west front of the Temple. The scarped rock to the right is the boundary of the precinct of Artemis Brauronia. The drum of a column in the right-hand corner of the drawing represents the southernmost column of the eastern portico of the Propylæa. For obvious artistic reasons the whole column could not be included in the drawing. The pedestal before the column is that of the statue of Athene Hygieia by the sculptor Pyrrhos. Two or three paces in front of it are the remains of a large free-standing altar.

GREECE · PAINTED BY
JOHN   FULLEYLOVE,   R.I.
DESCRIBED  BY  THE  REV.
J. A. M‘CLYMONT, M.A., D.D.
PUBLISHED BY A. AND  C.
BLACK · LONDON ·MCMVI

colophon

Author’s Note

AMONG the authorities consulted by the writer of the Text (who has had the advantage of a recent visit to Greece) special acknowledgments are due to Grote’s monumental History of Greece, and to J. G. Frazer’s lucid and searching Commentary on Pausanias’s Description of Greece.

Aberdeen, April 1906.

Contents

PAGE
Introductory1
CHAPTER I
The Ionian Islands and the “Odyssey”7
CHAPTER II
Delphi and its Oracle18
CHAPTER III
Olympia and its Games34
CHAPTER IV
Arcadia and its Aborigines51
CHAPTER V
Sparta and its Discipline71
CHAPTER VI
Argolis and its Antiquities94
CHAPTER VII
Corinth and its Canal111
CHAPTER VIII
Athens and its Acropolis124
CHAPTER IX
Athens and its Goddess146
CHAPTER X
Athens and Eleusis167
CHAPTER XI
Athens and its Democracy183
CHAPTER XII
Athens—its Decay and its Revival206
INDEX229

List of Illustrations

1.The Parthenon from the PropylæaFrontispiece
  FACING PAGE
2.The Acropolis from the Site of the Temple of Olympian Zeus2
3.Corfu. The Old Fort from the West8
4.Corfu. The Old Fort from the South10
5.The Temple of Athena at Sunium14
6.Sunset from the North-Eastern Corner of the Acropolis16
7.Delphi from Itea20
8.Delphi. The Castalian Gorge and Spring24
9.Delphi. The Portico of the Athenians28
10.The Ancient Quarries on Mount Pentelikon32
11.Olympia. The base of the Kronos Hill with the remains of the Temple of Hera and the Philippeion36
12.Olympia. The Palæstra and remains of the Temple of Zeus40
13.The Temple of Hera at Olympia44
14.The Bastion and Temple of Wingless Victory viewed from the ascent to the Propylæa48
15.Colossal Head of Despoina52
16.The Temple of Apollo at Bassæ in Arcadia, with distant view of Mount Ithome54
17.Site of Megalopolis in Arcadia58
18.Megalopolis in Arcadia62
19.Andritsæna. The resting-place for the Temple of Apollo at Bassæ66
20.The Castle of Karytæna in Arcadia70
21.Interior of the Temple of Apollo at Bassæ in Arcadia72
22.The Laconian Gate of Messene74
23.Kalamata on the Gulf of Messene76
24.Mount Ithome from the Stadion of Messene80
25.Triple Bridge over the Mavrozoumenos River84
26.Sparta and Mount Taÿgetus86
27.Mistra, near Sparta90
28.Mistra and the Valley of the Eurotas92
29.Argos and Larissa96
30.The Acropolis of Mycenæ from South-West, with Mount Elias100
31.Mycenæ, showing the site of the famous discoveries of Schliemann104
32.Tiryns. The Gate of the Upper Castle106
33.Nauplia and Tiryns from the Road to Argos108
34.The Theatre of Epidaurus110
35.The Temple at Corinth114
36.The Temple of Athena at Sunium from the North118
37.Off Cape Matapan122
38.The Western End of the Acropolis seen from below the Pnyx124
39.The Temple of Theseus from the South-West128
40.The Temple of Theseus from the North-West130
41.The Areopagus and the Theseum132
42.The Battle-Field of Marathon from Mount Pentelikon136
43.The Seaward End of the Plain of Attica looking towards Salamis140
44.The Temple of Athena on the Island of Ægina144
45.Vista of the Northern Peristyle of the Parthenon looking westward146
46.The Western Portico of the Parthenon from the South148
47.The Acropolis and the Temple of Olympian Zeus from the Hill Ardettos150
48.The Parthenon from the Northern End of the Eastern Portico of the Propylæa152
49.Mount Pentelikon and Lycabettos from the North-Eastern Angle of the Parthenon154
50.The Propylæa from the Northern Edge of the Platform of the Parthenon156
51.The Southern side of the Erechtheum, with the foundations of the earlier Temple of Athena Polias158
52.The Caryatid Portico of the Erechtheum from the West160
53.The Northern Portico of the Erechtheum162
54.The Eastern Portico of the Erechtheum viewed from the Northern Peristyle of the Parthenon164
55.The Dipylon at Athens168
56.The Street of Tombs outside the Dipylon at Athens172
57.Athens from the Road to Eleusis174
58.Convent of Daphni176
59.Sacred Way from Athens to Eleusis, looking towards Salamis178
60.The Great Temple of the Mysteries, Eleusis180
61.The Hall of the Great Temple of the Mysteries, Eleusis182
62.The Acropolis from the base of the Philopappus Hill184
63.The lower part of the Auditorium of the Theatre of Dionysos at Athens188
64.The Cavern Chapel on the South Side of the Acropolis190
65.The Choragic Monument of Lysicrates194
66.The Pnyx; or Place of Assembly of the People198
67.The Acropolis with Kallirrhoè in the Foreground202
68.Athens. The Monument of Agrippa and the Pinacotheca206
69.The Tower of the Winds208
70.The Portico of Athena Archegetis210
71.The Stoa of Hadrian212
72.The Arch of Hadrian216
73.Columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus from the North-West220
74.The Square in front of the King’s Palace at Athens222
75.The Stadion at Athens226
Sketch Map at end of Volume.

The Illustrations in this Volume have been engraved and printed in England by
The Hentschel Colourtype, Limited.

G R E E C E

INTRODUCTORY

MORE perhaps than any other country in Europe, Greece owes its charm to the traditions of a remote past. It has no lack of fine scenery, and there is much that is interesting in its modern life; but what chiefly distinguishes it from other countries is the rich and beautiful mythology which is reflected in its poetry, its art, and its philosophy, and was to a large extent the inspiration of its glorious history.

It will not be expected that any attempt should be made in these pages to give an adequate account of the artistic and architectural creations which, even in their ruins, form the chief attraction of the country. For detailed information on these matters, the reader must be left to consult such guide-books as Baedeker and Murray, or works specially devoted to archæology or art. The object of the present writer will be attained if he succeed in providing a congenial intellectual atmosphere for the scenes and objects to be presented by the artist. For this purpose it will be necessary, among other things, to recall many of the ancient legends, as well as the historical events associated with the places referred to. The history cannot be understood apart from the mythology, for the latter is a key to the religious faith as well as to the patriotic sentiment of the nation.

Opinions may differ as to the right interpretation of many of the myths, but whatever explanation we may be disposed to give of them, whether we regard them as allegorical, semi-historical, or purely poetical, they are generally full of human interest, and they were very dear to the Greeks as the embodiment of their earliest thoughts and cherished memories. Embalmed in their poetry, consecrated by their temples, and signalised by many other monuments, the Greek mythology formed for centuries the chief intellectual wealth of the nation. Even when history and philosophy had begun to make their influence felt, the old stories, dramatised by the tragic poets, still continued to fill the imagination and to occupy the attention of all classes of the people. Though Plato had a good deal to say against some of them from an ethical point of view, he did not propose in his ideal Republic to do away with them altogether, he only wished them to be so corrected and purified as to promote the interests of a sound morality and a reasonable theology.

An important feature of Greek mythology was its close connection with the received genealogies. These nearly always terminated, at the upper end, in a god or a hero, after whom a family or a group of families was named, with the curious result, to our modern



THE ACROPOLIS FROM THE SITE OF THE TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS The two detached colossal columns belong to the west end of the southern peristyle of the Temple. To the right is the Arch of Hadrian. The striking form of the masses of rock, which constitute the natural defence of the Acropolis on its eastern side, shows with great effect in this drawing.

THE ACROPOLIS FROM THE SITE OF THE TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS

The two detached colossal columns belong to the west end of the southern peristyle of the Temple. To the right is the Arch of Hadrian. The striking form of the masses of rock, which constitute the natural defence of the Acropolis on its eastern side, shows with great effect in this drawing.

mind, that the shorter the pedigree the more honour it conferred upon its living representative. The public genealogies were thus an incentive both to the piety and the pride of the more influential classes, and they help to account for the reverence in which the ancient mythology was so long held by such an enlightened nation as the Greeks.

With the exception of Palestine, there is probably no country that can compare with Greece for the influence it has exerted on the life and thought of the world, in proportion to its size and population. In area it was never so large as Scotland, and its population, which is now under two millions and a half, was probably never much greater.

How far the influence of ancient Greece was due to the racial characteristics of its inhabitants, which they brought with them from other parts of the world, and how far to the peculiarities of the country itself, is a question which it is not easy to determine. To some extent, no doubt, both causes operated. The inhabitants belonged to a good stock, the Indo-Germanic, while their geographical position and surroundings were well fitted to develop a high type of manhood. The beauty of the scenery, the purity of the atmosphere, the geniality of the climate, the fertility of the plains and valleys, the grandeur of the mountains,—more numerous and widespread than in any other part of Europe of similar extent except Montenegro,—the bracing influence of the sea, and the commercial advantages afforded by its coasts, which are more extensive than those of any other country in proportion to its size, looking in the direction of Europe, Asia, and Africa—all these things no doubt helped to make the ancient Greeks the great nation that they were, though their comparative obscurity in modern times shows that something more is needed to produce a similar effect.

If we would form an adequate conception of the nation’s influence, we must take into account the numerous Greek colonies which were planted in Asia Minor and on the southern shore of the Black Sea, on the coast of Macedonia, along the Hellespont and Bosporus, and also in Sicily and Italy, where a new Greek world sprang up, which received the name of Magna Græcia. Hundreds of years before Athens reached the height of its glory, there was a Greek city in Italy, Cumæ (founded by colonists from Chalcis and Cymæ in Asia Minor), which held the first place in the peninsula for wealth and civilisation; while another Greek settlement was to be found as far west as Marseilles, which had been colonised from Phocæa in Asia Minor about 600 B.C.

The inhabitants of Greece in this wider sense not only spoke the same language (whose preservation was largely due to the influence of Homer), but were also bound together by fellowship in blood, in religion, and in manners. They were hardly more distinguishable from the rude and ignorant tribes of Europe than from the more civilised Orientals who practised human sacrifice, polygamy, and the mutilation of enemies. But perhaps the most marked characteristic of the Greeks was their love of local autonomy, and their rooted aversion to anything like imperial rule, such as prevailed so widely in Asia. Their attachment to an individual city, as the capital of a small district, was doubtless due in great measure to the divided nature of the country, which is broken up by mountains and rivers and arms of the sea into numberless plains and valleys only a few miles in extent. While this had the effect of fostering a spirit of independence, combined with a sense of civic obligation, which helped to develop the energies and capacities of the individual, the proximity to each other of so many rival states bred a great amount of jealousy and strife, which frequently led to bloody and destructive wars. Such disintegrating tendencies were too much even for the consolidating force of a common language and literature, or of voluntary confederations for the purpose of worship or amusement. Occasionally a great national emergency, such as the Persian invasion, might force the Greeks to join together for the resistance of a common foe, but it was almost inevitable that sooner or later they should fall into the hands of a great military power, such as Macedonia, and lose the civic liberties of which they were so proud. The political decay of Greece, however, only widened the scope of its influence. As the dissolution of the Jewish polity was followed by the rapid spread of a religion which had its roots in the Jewish Scriptures, so the national degradation of the Greeks led to a still wider diffusion of their language, their literature, and their civilisation.

CHAPTER I

THE IONIAN ISLANDS AND THE “ODYSSEY”

THE first place in Greece on which a traveller from the West usually sets foot is Corfu, one of the Ionian Islands, which were given up by Great Britain in 1864 to gratify the patriotic aspirations of the Greeks. The sacrifice was not without its compensations, as it relieved Britain from an annual outlay of £100,000, which had been the cost of administration.

The principal Ionian Islands are five in number, namely, Corfu (Corcyra), Santa Mauro (Leucas), Ithaca, Cephalonia (Cephallenia), and Zanté (Zacynthus). They represent a territory of more than 1000 square miles, with a population of about a quarter of a million, who are mainly dependent on shipping and on the trade in oil, wine, and currants.

A romantic interest attaches to the promontory of Leucas, which terminates in what is still known as Sappho’s Leap, in allusion to an old tradition which tells how the famous poetess, who shares with Alcæus the chief honours in Æolian lyric poetry, here put an end to her life to escape from the pangs of unrequited affection. In Zacynthus we have an illustration of the historical accuracy of Herodotus in the existence of some curious springs on the south-west, from which the water comes out mingled with pitch.

From an antiquarian point of view, however, still greater interest attaches to Corcyra, Ithaca, and Cephallenia, as they have Homeric associations which carry us back to a still earlier period.

Corfu or Corcyra, although not the largest, is the most populous of the whole group. It is a beautiful island, with a beautiful situation, looking out on the blue waters of the Southern Adriatic, with the snowy mountains of Epirus in the distance. It has two commodious harbours, in which the shipping of many nations may be seen. The streets of the city are narrow and old-fashioned, but it has an interesting old fortress with a handsome esplanade. Near the harbour is the former residence of the British High Commissioner (an office once held by Mr. Gladstone), with beautiful public gardens in front of it. The environs of the city are charming, with orange-groves here and there glowing in the brilliant sunshine, amid a profusion of roses, geraniums, and other blooms almost growing wild, with miles on miles of olive-trees in the background.

From the earliest times the island was a place of importance to the shipping world, as the ancients, in sailing, liked to keep near to land, and generally put in to shore at night, unless they wished to take advantage of some favourable breeze which did not