68 “Il y a pour le Gourmet plus de soixante sortes de vins;—il n’y en a que trois pour le Chimiste;—savoir, les vins mousseux, les vins faits, les vins sucrés. Le sucre existe tout formé par la nature dans les raisins mûrs de tous les pays; sa proportion fait la principale différence des vins; c’est le sucre seul qui établit la fermentation vineuse: si l’on enferme le vin avant qu’elle soit terminée, le gaz, qui était sur le point de s’échapper, reste dans la liqueur, et le vin est mousseux. Ce gaz est de l’acide carbonique, le même air qui fait mousser le cidre, la bière, l’hydromel, et les eaux minérales de Seltz, de Chateldon. Il est dangereux à respirer en quantité, puisqu’il asphyxie les animaux; mais il est très-salubre à boire ainsi combiné. Si, au contraire, la fermentation est terminée, le sucre s’est changé dans le vin, en eau de vie, qui tient en dissolution le tartre, le principe colorant, et le principe extractif du raisin. Voilà, ce qui constitue les vins faits; ils ne moussent plus, et ils sont plus ou moins généreux suivant les proportions de leurs principes.

“Enfin, quand le sucre naturel au raisin est trop abondant pour fermenter en totalité, une portion reste dans la liqueur sous forme de Sirop, et constitue les vins sucrés d’Espagne, de Constance, etc.—La différence de saveur dépend d’un arôme particulier, propre au raisin de chaque climat.”—Cours Gastronomique, 8vo. 1809. p. 289.

69 “The human Stomach is capable, in the adult, of containing about three quarts of water.”—Blumenbach’s Physiology, p. 145.

70 “By adopting an abstinent plan of diet, even to a degree that produces a sensation of want in the System, we do that which is most likely to create appetite and increase the powers of digestion.”—Abernethy’s Surg. Obs. 68.

71 To make Beef or Mutton Tea.—Cut a pound of lean gravy-meat into thin slices—put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water—set it over a gentle fire where it will become gradually warm—when the skum rises catch it, cover the Saucepan close, and let it continue boiling for about two hours—skim the fat off, strain it through a sieve or a napkin—skim it again—let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the clear Tea. To make half a pint of Beef Tea in five minutes for three half-pence, see No. 252; and to make good Mutton Broth for Nothing, No. 490.

N.B.—An Onion, and a few grains of Black Pepper, &c. are sometimes added. If the Meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, mince it and pound it as directed in No. 503 of the Cook’s Oracle—and you may have a dish of Potted Beef for the trouble of making it.

72 “Il y a trois sortes d’appétits; celui que l’on éprouve à jeûn; sensation impérieuse qui ne chicane point sur le mets, et qui vous fait venir l’eau à la bouche, à l’aspect d’un bon ragoût. Je le compare au désir impétueux d’un jeune homme qui voit sourire la beauté qu’il aime.—Le second appétit est celui que l’on ressent lorsque, s’étant mis à table sans faim, on a déjà goûté d’un plat succulent, et qui a consacré le proverbe, l’appétit vient en mangeant. Je l’assimile à l’état d’un mari dont le cœur tiède s’échauffe aux premières caresses de sa femme.—Le troisième appétit est celui qu’excite un mets délicieux qui paraît à la fin d’un repas, lorsque, l’estomac satisfait, l’homme sobre allait quitter la table sans regret. Celui-là trouve son emblème dans les feux du libertinage, qui quoique illusoires, font naître cependant quelques plaisirs réels. La connaissance de cette métaphysique de l’appétit doit guider le Cuisinier habile dans la composition du premier, du second et du troisième service.”—Cours Gastronomique, p. 64.

73 “It is but INCREASING or diminishing the velocity of certain fluids in the animal machine,—to elate the Soul with the gayest hopes,—or to sink her into the deepest despair; to depress the Hero into a Coward— or advance the Coward into a Hero.”—Fitzosborne’s Letters, 1. viii.

74

See The Lady’s Address to Willy Cadogan in his Kitchen, 4to. 1771.

Some Minute Philosopher has published an 8vo. pamphlet of 56 pages! on the omnipotent “virtues of a Crust of Bread eaten early in the morning fasting!!” We have no doubt it is an admirable Specific for that grievous disorder of the Stomach called Hunger.

75 Are very crude indigestible materials for a weak Stomach, unless warmed by (No. 372);—with the assistance of which, and plenty of Pepper, you may eat even Cucumber with impunity.

76 Dr. Radcliffe, who succeeded better by speaking plainly to his Patients, than some of his successors have by the most subtle Politeness,—when asked what was the best Remedy for Wind in the Stomach, replied, “That which will expel it quickest”—inquiring of the Ventose subject whether the Wind passed per Ascensum, vel per Descensum, observing,—that the former is the most aggravated state of Ventriloquism, the latter a sign that the Bowels are recovering their Healthful Tone.

77 “My Stomach digests food so slowly, that I cannot study for five or six hours after a very sparing dinner.”—Spallanzani on Digestion, &c., vol. i. p. 280.

“If the quantity of Food be given, its Quality will cause a difference in the time of digesting; for instance, slimy and viscid meats are longer in digesting in the Stomach than meats of a contrary nature; the flesh of some young animals is not so soon digested as the flesh of the same animals arrived at their full growth; thus Veal and Lamb are not so soon digested as Beef and Mutton.

“A man who took a vomit every second night for some months, observed, that when he had taken Chicken for Dinner, he always threw it up undigested, but never threw up any of his Food undigested when he made his Dinner of Beef or Mutton.”—Bryan Robinson on the Food and Discharges of Human Bodies, 1748, p. 95.

Beef and Mutton seem to give less trouble to the Editor’s Stomach than any kind of Poultry.

The following is copied from Dr. Scudamore on Gout, 2d Edition, p. 509, being some of the Experiments related by Mr. Astley Cooper in his lecture delivered at the Royal College of Surgeons in 1814, which have only been published in Dr. S.’s book, who informs us, they were performed upon Dogs, with a view to ascertain the comparative solvent power of the gastric juice upon different articles of food.

“Experiment 5.

“Experiment 6.

“Experiment 9.

78 “Those who have weak stomachs, will be better able to digest their food, if they take their meals at regular hours; because they have both the stimulus of the aliment they take, and the periodical habit to assist digestion.”—Darwin’s Zoonomia, vol. i. p. 454.

“We often tease and disorder our Stomachs by fasting for too long a period, and when we have thus brought on what I may call a discontented state of the organ, unfitting it for its office, we set to a meal, and fill it to its utmost, regardless of its powers or its feelings.”—Abernethy’s Surg. Obs. p. 70.

79 “A Philosopher being asked what was the best time to dine, answered,—For a Rich man, when he could get a Stomach;—for a Poor man, when he could get Meat.”

80 “When four hours be past, after Breakfast, a man may safely taste his Dinner,—the most convenient time for dinner, is about eleven of the clocke before noone,—in 1570, this was the usual time of serving it in the University of Oxford,—elsewhere about noone,—it commonly consisted of boyled biefe, with pottage, bread and beere, and no more,—the quantity of biefe was in value an halfe-penny for each mouth,—they supped at five of the clocke in the Afternoon.”—Vide Cogan’s Haven of Health, 1584, p. 187.

Early hours were as Genteel in Dr. Cogan’s time, as late ones are now, 1821.

“Perhaps none of our Old English customs have undergone so thorough a change, as the hours of rising,—taking refreshment—the number of meals per day—and the time of retiring to rest.

“The stately dames of Edward IV.’s Court, rose with the Lark, despatched their dinner at eleven o’clock in the forenoon, and shortly after eight were wrapt in slumber.—How would these reasonable people (reasonable at least in this respect) be astonished could they but be witnesses to the present distribution of time among the Children of Fashion!—Would they not call the perverse conduct of those who rise at one or two, dine at eight,—and retire to bed when the morning is unfolding all its glories, and nature putting on her most pleasing aspect,—absolute insanity!!”—Warner’s Antiq. Cul. p. 134.

“The modern hours of eating are got to an excess that is perfectly ridiculous. Now, what do people get by this? If they make Dinner their principal Meal, and do not wish to pall their appetite by eating before it—they injure their health. Then in Winter they have two hours of candlelight before Dinner, and in Summer they are at table during the pleasantest part of the Day; and all this, to get a Long Morning,—for Idle People, to whom one would suppose the shortest morning would seem too Long.”—Pye’s Sketches, 12mo. 1797, p. 174.

81 Mr. Peck, Grocer, &c., No. 175, Strand, has printed a very ingenious chart of the “Geographie de la Gourmandise.”—“A Map of the four quarters of the World, intended to show the different parts from whence all the articles in his catalogue are imported.”—See also “Carte Gastronomique de la France,” prefixed to that entertaining work, “Cours Gastronomique,” 8vo. 1809.

82 “A Wag, on being told it was the fashion to dine later and later every day, said, He supposed it would end at last in not dining till to-morrow!!”

83 “It is at the commencement of Decline, i. e. about our 40th year, that the Stomach begins to require peculiar care and precaution. People who have been subject to Indigestions before, have them then more frequent and more violent; and those who have never been so afflicted, begin to suffer them from slight causes: a want of attention to which too frequently leads to the destruction of the best constitutions, especially of the studious, who neglect to take due exercise. The remedy proposed is Ipecacuanha, in a dose that will not occasion any nausea; but enough to excite such an increased action of the vermicular movement of the stomach, that the phlegm may be separated and expelled from that organ.

“The effects of it surpassed his most sanguine hopes: by the use of it, notwithstanding he had naturally a delicate constitution, he weathered the storms of the Revolution,” &c., and lived to be 84.

The above is an extract from Dr. Buchan’s translation of Mr. Daubenton’s Observations on Indigestion. This treatise brought Ipecacuanha Lozenges into fashion, as the most easy and agreeable manner of taking it: they contain about one-sixth of a grain, and are prepared and sold by Savory and Moore, Chemists, in Bond Street.

84 Delicate people, who are accustomed to dine at a certain hour, on certain food, &c., are generally deranged as often as they dine out, and change the hour, &c.

The Editor has a patient who never Dines out without suffering severely for several days after—not from over-eating or drinking, &c., but from the change of Diet, and the time of taking it. His habit is to make a hearty meal off one dish at Five o’clock, and drink with it some good heartening home-brewed Beer, and two or three glasses of Wine—that has not been kept till it has lost its best qualities.

85 Dr. W. says: “When the Stomach is in a sound state, and Digestion is properly performed, the spirits are good, and the Body is light and easy; but when that organ is out of order, a languor, debility, discontent, melancholy watchfulness, or troublesome dreams, the nightmare, &c. are the consequences. I have often been seized with a slight Incubus, attended with a faintness, as if the circulation was a good deal obstructed, before I was fully asleep, which has made me get up suddenly: while I lay awake I felt nothing of these symptoms, except some degree of uneasiness about my stomach; but when I was just about to fall asleep, they began to return again.” “In this way I have gone on for two or three hours or more, in the beginning of the night. At last, I found that a dram of Brandy, after the first attack, kept me easy the whole night,” p. 312.

“When affected with uneasy sensation from wind, I have not only been sensible of a general debility and flatness of spirits, but the unexpected opening of a door, or any such trifling unforeseen accident, has instantly occasioned an odd sensation about my heart, extending itself to my head and arms, &c. At other times, when my stomach is in a firmer state, I have no such feeling: at least, in a very small degree, from causes which might be thought more apt to produce them. Fainting, Tremors, Palpitations of the Heart, convulsive motions, and all those disorders which are called nervous, &c. &c. are often owing more to the infirm state of the first passages, than to any fault either in the Brain or Heart,” p. 132, &c.

Dr. Whytt died A.D. 1766, in his 52d year.

86 “Physicians appear to be too strict and particular in their rules of diet and regimen; too anxious attention to those rules hath often hurt those who were well, and added unnecessarily to the distresses of the sick.—Whether meat should be boiled or roasted, or dressed in any other plain way, and what sort of vegetables should be eaten with it, I never yet met with any person of common sense (except in an acute illness) whom I did not think much fitter to choose for himself, than I was to determine for him.”—Dr. Heberden on Diet.

“When the Stomach is weak, it seems particularly necessary that our food should be nutritive and easy of digestion.

“I may further observe, that its qualities should be adapted to the feelings of the stomach.

“In proof of this proposition, numerous instances might be mentioned of apparently unfit substances agreeing with the Stomach, being digested and even quieting an irritable state of the stomach, merely because they were suitable to its feelings. Instances might also be mentioned of changes in Diet producing a tranquil and healthy state of stomach in cases where medicines had been tried in vain.”—Abernethy, Surg. Obs. p. 68.

87 “A Fool, or a Physician at Forty, is an adage containing more truth than is commonly believed.—He who has not by that time learned to observe the causes of self-disorder—shows little signs of wisdom; and He who has carefully noted the things which create disorder in himself, must by his own experience possess much knowledge, that a Physician at a pop visit ought not to pretend to.”—Domestic Management, 1813, p. xxxvi.

88 “Grillus, who, according to the doctrine of Transmigration, (as Plutarch tells us) had, in his turn, been a Beast, discourses how much better he fed and lived then, than when he was turned to Man again, as knowing then what food was best and most proper for him, which Sarcophagists (flesh-eaters) in all this time were yet to seek.”—Evylyn’s Acetana, 12mo. 1699, p. 86.

“Instinct than Reason makes more wholesome Meals.”—Young.

“My Appetite is in several things of itself happily enough accommodated to the health of my Stomach; whatever I take against my liking does me harm; but nothing hurts me that I eat with appetite and delight.”—Vide honest Montaigne’s Essay on Experience, book iii. chap. xiii.

“The Stomach gives information when the supplies have been expended, and represents with great exactness the quantity and quality of whatever is wanted in the present state of the machine, and, in proportion as it meets with neglect, rises in its demand, and urges its petition with a louder voice.”—Dr. Wm. Hunter’s Introductory Lecture, 4to. p. 81.

“Take Food in proportion to the quantity of nourishment contained in it, of which the Stomach appears from Instinct to be capable of judging.”—J. Hunter on the Animal Economy, 4to. p. 221.

“Our stomach is, in general, a pretty good Judge of what is best for it,—thousands have perished for being inattentive to its calls—for one who has implicitly obeyed them.”—Dr. Smith’s Guide in Sickness, 8vo. p. 59.

“In every case wherein we wish to preserve strength, (as in most chronical complaints) we should be extremely cautious in prescribing a rigid regimen,—especially if it is intended to be long continued.”—“Things disagreeable to the palate, seldom digest well, or contribute to the nourishment of the Body.”—Falconer on Diet, pp. 7, and 8.

“What is most grateful to the Palate, sits most easy on the Stomach.”—Adair on Diet, p. 28.

“Longings directed by the pure guidance of Instinct, and not arising merely from opinion, may not only be satisfied with Impunity, but generally be indulged in with advantage.”—Withers on the Abuse of Medicine, 8vo. p. 233.

89 “As to the quality of food, although whatever is easy of digestion, singly considered, deserves the preference, yet regard must be had to the palate and to the appetite, because it is frequently found, that what the Stomach earnestly covets, though of difficult digestion, does nevertheless digest better than what is esteemed of easier digestion if the Stomach nauseates it: I am of opinion the patient ought to eat only of one dish at a meal.”—Sydenham on Gout.

“Every Animal but Man keeps to one dish—Herbs are the food of this species—Fish of that—and Flesh of a third.”—Spectator, No. 95.

“Be content with one dish at a meal, in the choice of that consult your palate.”—Mandeville on Hypochondriasis, p. 316.

90 “It is surprising how much the condition and disposition of the Stomach and Intestines will vary in the same person at different times.”—Whytt on the Nerves; p. 127.

91 “Many people, to be sufficiently nourished, must be supplied with food exceedingly stimulating.”—Struve’s Asthenology, 8vo. 1801, p. 280.

92 “Whosoever dreameth that no Sick Man should be allured to meat, by delightful and pleasant Sauces, seemeth as froward and fantastical as He that would never whet his knife.

“Why hath nature brought forth such variety of Herbs, Roots, Spices, &c. fit for nothing but Sauces, &c. but that by them, the Sick should be allured to feed.

“Abstinence is as dangerous, as Fulness and Satiety is inconvenient.”—Dr. Moffett on Foods, 12mo. 1746, p. 343.

93 “This gentleman had so cold a Stomach, (saith Suidas,) that he made a sheath for his Tongue, that he might swallow down his Pottage scalding hot; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire Gentleman of the like quality.”—Dr. Muffett on Food, 4to. 1655, p. 287.

94 “The Chyle appears to be of the same nature, from whatever aliment it has been extracted; if the medical people in different countries were questioned, each would probably approve of the diet used in their own—and would find plausible arguments to prove its superiority, with numerous and admirable examples among their countrymen in support of their theory.

“An Englishman would probably be of opinion that wheat-bread, and a large portion of animal food, gives the strongest and most substantial nourishment.

“An Irishman, or a Scotsman, would probably maintain that a small portion of animal food,—with plenty of potatoes and oatmeal, is far better adapted to form a vigorous and hardy race. The Laplanders live almost entirely upon Animal food—the Hindoos, Gentoos, &c. never taste any thing but Vegetables.”—Moore’s Mat. Med. p. 70.

“In the course of a few years, the produce of several acres of land, a number of large oxen, and many tuns of liquor, are consumed by one individual; whilst he continues nearly the same, whether he drinks the pure stream, or beverage the most skilfully compounded; whether he feeds on a variety of articles produced from the animal and vegetable kingdom, or confines himself to one particular substance; and whether his food is prepared in the most simple manner, or by the most refined and artificial modes that luxury has invented.”—Code of Health, vol. i. p. 402.

Facts relative to Diet.—“Dr. B. Franklin, of Philadelphia, informed me that he himself, when a journeyman printer, lived a fortnight on bread and water, at the rate of ten pennyworth of bread per week, and that he found himself stout and hearty with this diet.”

“By Sir John Pringle I was told that he knew a lady now 90 years of age, who eat only the pure fat of meat.”

“Dr. Cirelli says, that the Neapolitan Physicians frequently allow their patients in fevers, nothing but water for forty days together.”—Dr. Stark, on Diet, &c. 4to. 1788, p. 92, a work well worth the purchase of any person curious upon this subject. As is also Dr. Bryan Robinson, on Food and Discharges of Human Bodies.

95 “A constant adherence to one sort of Diet, may have bad effects on any Constitution. Nature has provided a great Variety of Nourishment for Human Creatures, and furnished us with Appetites to desire, and Organs to digest them.

“An unerring Regularity is almost impracticable, and the swerving from it, when it has grown habitual, dangerous; for every unusual thing in a human body becomes a stimulus, as Wine or Flesh Meat to one not used to them; therefore Celsus’s Rule, with proper moral restrictions, is a good one.”—Arbuthnot on Aliment, pp. 218 and 219.

96 A Pill is the mildest form of administering Medicine, because of its gradual solution in the Stomach, and the same quantity of the same material, taken in a draught, produces a very different effect.

97 “He that would have a clear Head, must have a clean Stomach.”—Cheyne on Health, p. 34.

98 Quintessence of Lemon Peel, (No. 418).—Best oil of Lemon, one drachm,—strongest rectified Spirit, two ounces, introduced by degrees, till the spirit kills and completely mixes with the oil. This elegant and useful preparation, possesses all the delightful fragrance and flavour of the freshest Lemon Peel—for which you will find it a satisfactory substitute. A few drops on the Sugar you make Punch with, will instantly impregnate it with as much flavour as the troublesome and tedious method of rubbing the sugar on the rind.

99 “I have observed that in mature Age, and in the decline of Life, symptoms which are attributed to previous irregularities, to idiosyncracy, to hereditary disposition, to disease, and to approaching old age, frequently arise from Constipation of the Bowels.”—Hamilton on Purgative Medicines, 1806, p. 7.

100 “Astriction of the Belly is commonly a sign of strong Chylopoetick Organs.”—Arbuthnot on Aliment, p. 24.

101 Beautiful and full ripe Hot-house Grapes may be procured in the greatest perfection at the Fruit Shops in Covent Garden, almost all the year round—and the Editor has frequently given them to delicate women, who have been afflicted with feverish complaints, to the quantity of a Pound per day, with the most satisfactory effect—they were extremely grateful in cooling their parched mouths, and at once most agreeably and effectually supplied the place of both Saline Draughts and Aperient Medicine.

102 “People who have Relaxed Bowels have seldom strong thoughts or strong bodies.”—Locke on Education, sec. 23.

“The cure for relaxed Nerves (the source of all chronic disorders) must necessarily begin at the Stomach. He who attempts to cure a Nervous distemper without firm Bowels—labours in vain; for it is impossible that the Constitution of those who have Slippery Bowels—should ever be braced.”—Cheyne on Long Life, p. 107.

103 “To make Toast and Water.—Cut a bit of the upper crust of Bread, about twice the thickness Toast is usually cut—toast it carefully, till it be completely browned all over, but not at all blackened or burnt: put this into a jug, and pour upon it as much boiling water as you wish to make into drink—cover the jug—let it stand till cold. The fresher made—the better. Obs.—A roll of fresh thin cut Lemon Peel or dried Orange Peel, infused with the Bread, is a grateful addition, and makes a very refreshing Summer drink—and when the proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse perspiration, may be drank plentifully. Let a large jug be made early in the day, it will then become warm by the heat of the Air, and may be drank freely with impunity; cold Water fresh drawn from a well cannot without danger.”

104 Dr. Pemberton recommends the following Bolus:—

℞ Kino. pulv. ℈j.
Confect. Opiat. gr. xii.
Misc. Fiat bolus, ter quotidie sumendus.

See his Observations on the Diseases of the Abdominal Viscera, 8vo. 1807, p. 140.

105 Here followed, in the first Edition, some Observations on Singing. See page 98 of this book—But most of them are taken out, and will shortly be published by Messrs. Hurst and Robinson, No. 90, Cheapside, as part of the Prefatory matter of “The English Melodies,” selected by the Author of this work, from the Library of Wm. Kitchiner, M. D.

106 “A knowledge how to regulate the alvine evacuation, constitutes much of the prophylactic part of Medicine; hence, how necessary it is to advise those who either wish to preserve good Health, or are in quest of the lost treasure, to attend to this circumstance.”—Hamilton on Purgatives, p. 7.

“How much it behoves those who have the charge of young people, particularly of the female sex, to impress them with the propriety, nay with the absolute necessity of attention to the regular state of the Bowels; and to put it in their power, by the use of proper means, to guard against constipation; and at the same time to watch over them, lest, through indolence, they neglect a circumstance which, promoting in the gay season of youth, the enjoyment of health and happiness, opposes a sure barrier against the inroads of chlorosis, &c., always a distressing, and sometimes a fatal complaint.”—Ibid. p. 76.

107 “There are three things which I consider as necessary to the cure of disorder.

“1st, That the Stomach should thoroughly digest all the food that is put into it.

“The patient perceiving the necessity of obtaining this end, becomes attentive to his Diet, and observes the effect which the quantity and quality of his food and medicines have upon his feelings, and the apparent powers of his Stomach.

“2dly, That the residue of the food should be daily discharged from the Bowels: here, too, the patient, apprised of the design, notes what kind and dose of purgative medicine best effect the intention, and whether it answers better if taken at once, or at intervals.

“3dly, That the secretion of Bile should be right, both with respect to quantity and quality. In cases wherein the secretion of Bile has been for a long time deficient or faulty, I recommend unirritating and undebilitating doses of Mercury, (i. e. pil. hydrarg.) to be taken every second or third night till the stools become of the wet rhubarb colour.”—P. 90.

“Any kind of Brown, which dilution will not convert into yellow, I should consider as unhealthy.”—P. 36.

See Mr. Abernethy’s Surgical Observations.

108 “A popular hypothesis is now very prevalent, which attributes nearly all Diseases to a disturbed state of the Liver—for which, Mercurial drugs are lavished almost indiscriminately. The folly of expecting to repel this, or any other opinion which is favourable to the natural indolence of mankind, is obvious, especially when it is at the same time upholden by the empirical interests of greedy individuals.”—A. Carlisle on Old Age, 2d edit. p. 88.

109 “It is a dubious question, whether Worms or the Violent Purgatives which are forced into the human Stomach, by the decisive energy of medical logic, to destroy and expel them, have been most destructive to the human species.”—Withers on the Abuse of Medicine, 8vo. 1794, p. 19 and 117.

110 “Mercury and Antimony, elaborated into Poisons by Chemistry—i. e. Calomel, Emetic Tartar, James’s Powders, &c. have torn many a Stomach into rags, so that it could never bear common food after.”—Cadogan on Gout, 8vo. 1771, p. 79.

111 The flavour of Coxwell’s Citric Acid is much more agreeable than the Tartaric, which, being cheaper, is sometimes substituted for it.

112 Portable Soup, or Glaze.—(No. 252.)—Desire the Butcher to break the bones of a Leg or a Shin of Beef, of 10 pounds weight (the fresher killed the better), put it into a Soup-pot (a Digester is the best utensil for this purpose) that will well hold it; just cover it with cold water, and set it on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly boils, (this should be at least an hour);—skim it attentively while any scum rises,—pour in a little cold water, to throw up the scum that may remain,—let it come to a boil again, and again skim it carefully: when no more scum rises, and the broth appears clear, (put in neither Roots nor Herbs nor Salt,) let it boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain it through a hair sieve into a brown stone pan; set the Broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into a sieve, let it drain, make Potted Beef (No. 503),—or it will be very acceptable to many poor families. Next day remove every particle of Fat from the top of it, and pour it through a Tammis or fine sieve as quietly as possible into a Stewpan, taking care not to let any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the Stewpan, which should be of thick Copper, perfectly well tinned; add a quarter of an ounce of whole Black Pepper to it, let it boil briskly, with the stewpan uncovered, on a quick fire: if any scum rises, take it off with a skimmer; when it begins to thicken, and is reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stewpan; set it over a gentler fire, till it is reduced to the thickness of a very thick Syrup; take care that it does not burn,—a moment’s inattention now will lose you all your labour, and the soup will be spoiled:—take a little of it out in a spoon and let it cool; if it sets into strong Jelly, it is done enough;—if it does not, boil it a little longer, till it does;—have ready some little pots, such as are used for Potted Meats, about an inch and a half deep, taking care that they are quite dry;—we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it is for home consumption—(the less it is reduced, the better is the flavour of the Soup)—if it be sufficiently concentrated to keep for six months;—if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into such bladders as are used for German Sausages,—or if you prefer it in the form of Cakes, pour it into a dish about a quarter of an inch deep; when it is cold, turn it out and weigh the Cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter into pieces of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a warm room, and turn them frequently till they are thoroughly dried;—this will take a week or ten days; turn them twice a day;—when well hardened, if kept in a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any climate.

This extract of Meat makes excellent “Tablettes de Bouillon,” for those who are obliged to endure long fasting.

Obs.—The uses of this concentrated Essence of Meat are numerous. It is equally economical and convenient for making extempore Broths, Sauces and Gravies for Hashed or Stewed Meat, Game, or Poultry, &c.

You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in (No. 329);—to make Gravy, Sauces, &c. take double the quantity ordered for Broth.

If you have time and opportunity, as there is no seasoning in the Soup, either of Roots, Herbs, or Spice, boil an Onion with or without a bit of Parsley, and Sweet Herbs, and a few corns of Allspice, or other Spice, in the water you melt the Soup in, which may be flavoured with Mushroom Catsup (No. 439),—or Eschalot Wine (No. 402),—Essence of Sweet Herbs (No. 417),—Savoury Spice (Nos. 421, or 457),—Essence of Celery (No. 409), &c. or Zest (No. 255);—these may be combined in the proportions most agreeable to the palate of the Eater—and are as portable as Portable Soup, for a very small portion will flavour a Pint.

The Editor adds nothing to the solution of this Soup, but a very little ground Black Pepper and some Salt.

Mem. This Portable Soup is a most convenient article in Cookery—especially in Small Families, where it will save a great deal of time and trouble. It is also Economical, for no more will be melted than is wanted—so there is no waste.

Shin of Beef, weighing nine pounds, and costing 1s. 10½d. produced nine ounces of concentrated Soup, sufficiently reduced to keep for several months. After the boiling, the Bones in this joint weighed two pounds and a quarter, and the Meat two pounds and a quarter.

As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality—and we could not find any proper and circumstantial directions for making it, which on trial answered the purpose,—and it is really a great acquisition to the Army and Navy—to Travellers, Invalids, &c.—the Editor has bestowed some time, &c. in endeavouring to learn—and to teach how it may be prepared in the easiest,—most economical and perfect manner.

The ordinary selling price is from 10s. to 12s.—but you may make it according to the above Receipt for 3s. 6d. per Pound—i. e. for 2½d. per Ounce, which will make you a Pint of Broth.

Those who do not regard the expense, and like the flavour, may add the lean of Ham, in the proportion of a pound to eight pounds of Leg of Beef.

It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the time you put the Broth into the smaller Stewpan, Mushroom Catsup, Shallot Wine, Essences of Spice or Herbs, &c.;—we prefer it quite plain—it is then ready to be converted in an instant into a basin of Beef Tea for an Invalid, and any flavour may be immediately communicated to it by the Magazine of Taste (No. 463.)

Mutton Chops delicately Stewed, and good Mutton Broth.—(No. 490.)—Put a Pound of Chops into a stewpan with cold water enough to cover them, and half a pint over, and an Onion,—when it is coming to a boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow Fire till the Chops are tender,—if they have been kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of an hour’s very gentle simmering. Send up Turnips with them, (No. 130), they may be boiled with the chops, skim well, and then send all up in a deep dish, with the Broth they were stewed in.

N.B. The Broth will make an Economist one,—and the Meat another wholesome and comfortable meal.