• Abdul Jalil, photographic assistant, 59, 319
• Abruzzi, Duke of the, 2, 3, 5, 155
• Acchu, cook, 103, 133, 178
• Acclimatisation to high altitudes, 277, 308, 341
• Alpine Club, 1, 7, 14–19, 305
• Altitude, effects on human frame, 5, 102, 104–5, 137–8, 154–5, 199, 204, 206–7, 253–4, 276, 307–8, 315, 341; on breathing, 200, 243–4, 277; on tinned fish, 50
• Ammo-chu, river, 39, 44, 291
• Aneroids, 341
• Ang Tenze, coolie, 113, 149–51, 166
• Ari, bungalow, 33
• Arun, river, 89, 104–5; gorges, 110, 125, 221, 297, 298; see Bhong-chu
• Avalanches, 231, 267–9, 308–9
•  
• Bailey, Major, 31, 314
• Bamtso, lake, 49
• Bell, Sir Charles, 16, 24, 166
• Bhompo's, Buddhist sect, 39
• Bhong-chu, river, 64–5, 69–71, 89–90, 93, 99, 100, 110, 159, 161, 295; upper valley, 320, 322; see Arun
• Bhotias, 24
• Bhotia ponies, 27
• Bhotia Kosi, river, 338
• Birds, 290–303, 312, 344–6
• Brahma Putra, river, 61; see Tsangpo
• Bridges, 69, 93–4, 103, 115, 123, 159–60, 191
• Bruce, General, 1, 3, 13, 17, 154, 312
• Buchan, J., 19
• Buddhism and Buddhists, 25, 67–8, 173; books, 41; red cap sect, 173; yellow cap sect, 58, 173; regard for animal life, 59, 80, 166, 290; see Monasteries, prayer-wheels
• Bullock, G. H., 19, 26, 52; see Mallory
• Bullocks, 48, etc; see Transport
• Burrard, Sir S., 10–12
•  
• Carpo-ri, mountain, 227; ascended, 117, 229–35, 268
• Chamlang, mountain, 140
• Chandra Nursery, 32
• Chang La (North Col), 142; first view of, 204, 207, 212, 220; way to, 233–40, 246–8, 256; camp on, 259–60; best route to, 273–4, 311–12, 334–5
• Changtse, North peak of Everest, 142, 213, 215, 233–4
• Chelmsford, Lord, 16
• Chheten Wangdi, interpreter, 25, 39, 69, 91, 95, 112, 162, 179
• Chinese in Tibet, 38–9, 71–2, 173; in Nepal, 173
• Chitayn, coolie, 212
• Chöbuk, monastery and bridge, 82, 95, 190, 191, 312, 327
• Chödzong, village, 86
• Chog La, 106, 121, 129, 299–300
• Choksum, village, 324
• Chomiomo, mountain, 52, 54, 140, 166
• Chomolhari, mountain, 45, 48, 60, 64, 167, 263
• Chomolönzo, mountain, 114, 116, 149–51
• Chomolungma (Mount Everest or Makalu), 13, 24, 107, 224
• Chomo-Uri (Mount Everest), 64
• Chorabsang, mountain, 77–8; (=Cho Rapsang, 331)
• Chortens, 40, 66, 174, 286, etc.
• Cho Uyo, mountain, 73, 76, 78, 101, 207, 219, 330
• Chöyling monastery, 194
• Chulungphu, village, 89, 104
• Chumbi valley, 25, 37–44, 170, 177–8; village, 38; fauna and flora, 291
• Chushar Nango, village, 60–61, 131, 134, 295
• Chuphar, village and monastery, 327
• Chu-tronu, 123
• Collie, J. N., 17–18
• Compasses, 342
• Conway, Sir M., 4, 5
• Coolies, 23–5; behaviour, 47, 146, 156, 213, 216, 222–3, etc.; as carriers, 92–4, 113, 122, 158, 284–6; see Transport; in mountaineering, 84, 188, 195, 203–6, 212, 230, 251 ff., 332
• Crampons, 207–8, 272
• Cups of tea, as measures of distance, 108
• Curios, 67, 157
• Curzon, Lord, 1, 19
•  
• Dak, village, 93
• Dalai Lama, the, 16, 173
• Darjeeling, 23–28, 179
• Dasno, coolie, 234
• Desiccation, 51
• Dochen, bungalow, 49, 168
• Dokcho, village, 321
• Donka monastery, 40–42
• Donkeys, 48, 64, 65, etc.; See Transport
• Dorje, cook, 50
• Dorji Gompa, coolie, 202, 256
• Doto nunnery, 51
• Doya La, the, 88, 104, 336
• Dram, village, 325
• Drophung monastery, 323
• Dug pass, 50
• Dukpa, cook, 134, 188
• Dunge pokri, island, 127
• Dzakar (or Zakar) Chu, river, 93–5, 297, 333
•  
• Eaton, J. E. C., 17
• Equipment, 20, 315, 341
• Everest, Mount, 1–2, 183; position, 9, 13; height, 10–12; names, 13, 64, 225; seen from Khamba Dzong, 54, 56, 183–4; from Shiling, 64, 186–88, 217, 230, 263; from Rongbuk Valley, 192, 263–4; from Kama Valley, 116, 226; local ignorance of, 107, 112, 116; structure, 192–4, 203, 215, 310; best season for ascent, 153, 248, 270; difficulties of, 154, 276, 308; plans for, in 1921, 250–52
• — — Committee, 16 ff.
• — — Expedition, origin of, 14–16; value of, 5; objects, 17–18; cost, 19; equipment, 20, 315, 341; results, 179–80, 310–12, 338, 341. See Survey
• Everest, Sir G., 13
•  
• Farrar, Captain J. P., 14, 17, 19, 315
• Finch, Captain G., 19, 313, 315
• “Finger,” the, station, 335–6
• Fourteen lakes, valley of the, 106, 121; fauna and flora, 299
• Fowkes, Sergeant, 28
• Freshfield, D. W., 1, 14–16, 18
• Fuel, 80, 105, 171, 211, 237, 247, 273, 331
•  
• Gadompa, village and bridge, 160–61
• Galinka, village and monastery, 40
• Gandenchöfel monastery, 108, 131
• Gauri Sankar, mountain, 288, 326, 331
• Gautsa, bungalow, 40
• Gelupka (= Yellow Cap) sect, 173
• Geshe Rimpoche, Lama, 40
• Ghoom, 29
• Glaciers, ancient extent of, 128; characteristics, 194, 197, 218; atmosphere, 200, 243, 270
• Gnatong, village, 35–6, 178
• Gosainthan, mountain, 64, 101, 284, 322–3
• Graham, Dr., 30–31
• Graphic, the, 19
• Gujjar Singh, surveyor, the, 319, 323–7
• Gurkhas in Tibet, the, 71, 95, 106
• Guru Rimpoche, saint, 173
• Gyachung Kang, mountain, 207, 219, 330
• Gyalzen Kazi, interpreter, 25, 56, 133, 137, 163, 177–8, 188, 190, 202, 323
• Gyangka-nangpa, house, 62, 184
• Gyanka range of mountains, 184
•  
• Haldane, J. S., 341
• Halung, village, 86–7, 103, 240; valley, 339
• Hari Ram, explorer, 319, 324
• Harvest rents, 161, 174
• Hatarana, steamer, 24
• Hayden, Sir H., 338
• Harvest rents, 80, 83–4, 99
• Heron, Dr. A. M., 20, 26; expeditions from Tingri, 74, 77–85, 98, 120, 325; first expedition to Kharta, 86–95, 162, 164, 179–80; in Upper Kharta Valley, 253; returns by Kama Valley, 146–153, 337, and Teesta Valley, 164, 37; note on geological results, 338–340
• Himalaya, 7–8, 11, 304 ff.; H. and the Alps, 194
• Hinks, A. R., 17, 20, 315; notes on scientific equipment, 341–2
• Holdich, Sir T., 15
• Hopaphema, landowner, 91–3, 104, 108, 111–12, 157–8
• Hot springs. See Kambu, Tsamda
• Howard-Bury, Colonel C. K., 13, 15, 17, 20, 243; author of the general narrative of the expedition, 23–180;; expeditions from Tingri, 75–85; first expedition to Kharta, 86–95; expeditions from Kharta, 106–111; visits Kama Valley, 112 ff.; ascent of 19,500 ft. ridge, 116; of Kama Changri, 136–7; of Lhakpa La, 140–145, 257 ff.
• Huc, abbé, 293
•  
• India Office, 16
• India, Government of, 16, 23
• — Survey of, 20, 26–7, 341
• Interpreters, 25, 47; discretion of, 108
• Isaacs, Mr., 39
• “Island,” the, 209, 213, 219
•  
• Jack, Colonel E. M., 17, 20, 315
• Jannu, mountain, 117, 135, 140
• Jelep La, 36, 37, 178, 290, 291 note
• Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Chöfel, saint, 109, 325
• Jongpens, 174–5, 283, 324
• Jonsong, mountain, 47, 140
•  
• Kabru, mountain, 26, 47, 168
• Kala-tso, lake, 51
• Kalimpong, village, 29–30
• Kama Valley, 112–119, 146–52, 225–7, 311, 339; fauna and flora, 300–01
• Kama Changri, mountain, 114, 136–7
• Kama-chu, river, 122–4
• Kambu hot springs, 40–43; valley, 291
• Kanchenjunga, mountain, 9, 46, 117, 135, 140, 185
• Kanchenjhow, mountain, 52, 54, 104, 166
• Kang-chu, river, 325
• Kangchen and -chung passes, 326
• Kangdoshung glacier, 115–16
• Kangshung glacier, 149–51
• Karpo La, 147
• Karro Pumri, mountain, 326
• Kartse, mountain, 141
• Kellas, A. M., 14, 18, 26, 341; illness and death, 46–49, 52–54, 164, 321
• Khamba Dzong,fort and village, 13, 24, 53–57, 96, 164
• Kharkung, village, 161
• Kharta, 24, 90; first visit to, 88–93; headquarters of the expedition, 104–5, 110; survey of, 323, 327; valley formation, 339; fauna and flora, 299, 301–03
• Khartaphu, mountain, 330
• Khe or Khetam, village, 50–51
• Kheru, 51
• Khombu pass, 76, 78–9, 312, 339
• — valley, 150–51
• Kimonanga, village, 124
• Korabak, rock, 124
• Kuti (= Nyenyam), village, 324
• Kyetrak, village and valley, 74–77, 327, 331
• — glacier, 70, 77–79, 312; river, 79
• Kyishong, village, 65, 102
•  
• Lachen, 56, 337
• Lalbir Singh Thapa, surveyor, 319, 322, 327
• Lamna La, 81, 327
• Langkor, village and temple, 281, 323
• Langma La, 112–13, 130, 224
• Langra, rest-house, 37, 178
• Lapche, village and monastery, 287, 325–6
• Lapche Kang, mountain, 115, 284–5, 325
• Lashar, village, 161
• Lebong, races at, 27
• Leeches, 34–5, 123–4, 126, 300, 337
• Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), 138, 161, 273–4; first visits to, 240–249, 255–6; camp on, 140–44, 257–8, 261
• Lhasa, 16, 24, 173, 174; road to, 48–49
• Lhonak peaks, 52
• Lhotse, mountain (S. peak of Everest), 116, 213
• Lingga, village, 57, 163–4
• Lingmatang, plain, 40, 44, 291
• Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 1, 5, 314
• Lumeh, village, 93–4, 159
• Lungchen La, 322
• Lungdö, village, 110, 125
• Lunghi, 167
•  
• Macdonald, David and family, 31, 38, 177
• LMakalu, mountain, 104, 116, 118–19, 137, 186, 225–6 etc.; glacier, 151
• Mallory, G. H. L., 19, 26, 313; reconnoitres N. approach to Everest, 74, 181–220; ascends Ri-Ring (23,050 ft.), 205–7, 264; moves to Kharta, 102–106; reconnoitres E. approach to Everest, 117, 221–249; back to Kharta, 130; ascends Kama Changri, 136–7; final assault and ascent of North Col, 131–145, 250–261; leaves Kharta, 153; views on weather conditions, 262–72; on the route up Everest, 273–79
• Mammals, 290–303, 312, 344, etc.
• Mani Walls, 40, 174, etc.
• Maps of Tibet, 62
• “Marigolds, Field of,” 119, 152
• Matsang, village, 125
• Meade, C. F., 5, 17, 19
• Mendalongkyo, 129
• Mende, village, 57
• Menkhap-to and -me, villages, 322
• Menlung pass, 327
• “Metohkangmi,” 141
• Mila Respa, saint, 287
• Monasteries, 99, 113, 173. See Donka, Galinka, Ganden Chöfel, Rongbuk, Shekar Chöte, etc.
• Monsoon, 31, 48, 88, 91, 139, 216, 248, 262 ff. See Rainfall
• Morshead, Major H. T., 20, 25–27, 54, 65, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97, 108, 281–9, 323–5; at Kharta, 112; survey of Kharta Valley, 131–2, 135; first ascent of Lhakpa La, 130, 230–49; ascends Kama Changri, 136–7; second ascent of Lhakpa La, 140–144, 253–8; map by, 312, 338; account of survey by, 319–28
• Mountain sickness, 207, 258, 323. See Altitude
• Mountaineering, 2–4, 6–8, 305–6
• Mules, lent by Government, 27–8; breakdown of, 33–4; Tibetan, 32–33, 48, etc. See Transport
•  
• Nangba (= Khombu), pass, 77, 331
• Narsing, mountain, 26
• Nathu La, 37
• Nawang Lobsang, first Dalai Lama, 173
• Nepal, 13
• Nepalese coolies, 25, 122; invasion of Tibet, 71, 73; traders, 122, 127, 324; herdsmen, 126
• Nezogu bridge, 100, 102
• Ngawangyonten, official, 94
• Nieves penitentes, 78
• Nila pass, 61, 184
• Noel, Major J. B. L., 14, 314
• Nomads, 51, 171
• North Col of Everest, 212, 215. See Chang La
• North cwm of Everest, 200, 203–4
• North peak. See Chang-tse
• North-East Arête, 215, 227, 235, 250–51, 259, 274–6, 310
• Norton, Major E. F., 313
• Nuns and nunneries, 51, 80, 83, 166
• Nyenyam, 73, 97, 108, 283–4, 297, 324
• Nyima Tendu, coolie, 113, 149–51, 234
•  
• Oxygen for climbers, 154, 277, 307–8, 315–16, 341
•  
• Padamchen (= Sedongchen), 33
• Padma Sambhava, saint, 337
• Pashok, 173
• Pawhunri mountains, 46, 52, 54, 166
• Pedong, 31–2
• Pekhu plain, 322
• Peshoke, bungalow, 29
• Pethang Ringmo, 116, 138
• Pethangtse, mountain, 117, 147
• Phari, fort and village, 24, 35, 45–8, 168; plain, 46, 292
• Pharuk, district, 323, 327
• Phema, village, 38
• Philadelphia Ledger, the, 19
• Photography, 68, 72–3, 156, 216–17, 314, 315, 38, 342–3, etc.; perils of, 74–5; surveying by, 320, 329–30
• Phuri, village, 322
• Phuse La. See Pusi pass
• Pilgrims, 70, 99, 121
• Plants, 290–302, 312, 346–50, etc.
• Pö-chu, river, 284–5, 297–8, 323–4
• Ponglet, view from, 188, 218, 263
• Pilgrims, 27, 34, 48, 87, 101, etc; See Transport
• Poo, coolie, 75, 113, 156, 178
• Popti La, 106, 126–7, 300
• Postal arrangements, 96–7, 131, 135
• Prayer wheels, 39–40, 53, 91, 98, 110, 174, 289
• Primus stoves, 142–3, 154, 208, 331, 121
• Pulahari, village, 281
• Pulme, 94
• Pumori, mountain, 209
• Punagang monastery, 39
• Pusi pass, 77, 79, 289 (= Phuse La, 327, 330)
•  
• Quiok, pass, 159
•  
• Rabkar-chu, river and glacier, 115
• Ra-chu, river, 70, 330
• Rainfall, 29, 37, 56, 99, 105, 262 ff.
• Rawling, Major, 13–14
• Reading, Lord, 23
• Rebu, village, 87, 103; valley, 339
• Rhenock, 32
• Ri-Ring, mountain, ascended, 205–6, 270, 311
• Richengong, village, 38, 291
• Ronaldshay, Lord, 32, 179
• Rongbuk, glacier, 84; central and W. branches explored, 194–220; E. branch, 179, 142, 216–18, 247–9, 273–4, 334–6; stream from, 199, 218
• — monastery, 83
• — valley, 82, 191, 339
• Rongkong, village, 63
• Rongli, bungalow, 32, 178
• Rongme, village, 63
• Rongshar, valley, 77, 288–9, 298, 325–6
• Ruddamlamtso, lake, 121, 128
• Rugby, Tibetan boys at, 172
• Ryder, Colonel C. H. D., 13, 319
•  
• Sakeding, village, 121–22, 127–8
• Samchung, pass, 106, 121, 129
• Sand dunes, 58, 63–4, 295
• Sandakphu, 12, 13
• Sanglu, coolie, 254, 256–7
• Sedongchen, village, 33–4
• Senchal, 29
• Serpo-La, 164, 337
• Shao La, 112, 118, 153
• Sharto, village, 75, 330
• Shassi (= New Yatung), 38
• Shatog, village, 162
• Shekar-Chöte, monastery, 67–8, 94
• Shekar Dzong, fort and village, 45, 66–7, 96, 295
• Sherpa Bhotias, coolies, 24, 188, 224, 252
• Shidag, nunnery, 51
• Shigatse, 51, 55, 174
• Shiling, 51, 161, 188. See Everest, Mount
• Shung-chu, river, 79
• Shurim Tso, lake, 114
• Sikkim, survey of, 27, 320–21, 327; journey through, 29–36; flora of, ibid.
• Siniolchum, mountain, 46
• Sipri mountains, 99
• Skis, 158
• Snow, 248, 254, 264–8; temperature of, 270; powdery, 171, 231, 243, 256; powdery snow and wind, 139, 142, 144, 159, 167–8, 259–60, 271, etc.
• Snow-blindness, 103, 167, 171
• Snowfall, 37, 171
• Snow line, 56
• Snow men, the abominable, 141
• Shigatse, 137, 211–14, 232, 243, 254, 265, 270
• Somers Cocks, E. L., 16
• Somervell, H. T., 312, 313
• Strutt, Colonel E. L., 313
• Sun's rays, 270, 308
• Survey work of expedition, 179, 312. See Heron, Morshead, Wheeler
• Sutso plain, 99, 321–22
•  
• Takda, cantonment, 29
• Tamba Sanye, saint, 281, 323
• Tameness of animals, 59–60, 76–77, 80, 83, 88, 94, 131
• Tang La, 48, 167, 323
• Tang-pün-sum, plain, 48
• Tangsham, 114, 117, 152
• Targyeling, village, plain, 324
• Tasang, village, 79, 289, 327
• Tashi Dzom, 95
• Tashilumpo monastery, 51, 173
• Tashishong, 325
• Tatsang, nunnery, 52, 165–6
• Teesta Valley, 27, 29–30, 164, 337
• Temperature, 79, 308, 342
• Tents, airlessness of, 143, 154, 258
• Thermometers, 342
• Thrashing, 164
• Thung-La, 282; fauna and flora, 297
• Tibet, 13, 36, 170 ff.; geology of, 338; Government, 173–4;; helps the expedition, 16, 24, 45, etc.
• Tibetans, 170 ff.
• Tibetan beer, 57, 125, 156; bread, 125; burial, 74, 133; climate, 49, 176; coinage and currency, 47, 59, 123; coolies, 223–4; houses, 38, 89; bread, 321; marriage, 74; meals, 48, 59, 62, 67, 101, 108, etc.; mules, 177–9; ornaments, 73, 101, 107; ponies, 72, 55, 101, 176; superstitions, 66, 72, 109, 122, 141, 174, 282; tea, 41, etc.
• Times, newspaper, 19, 156
• Tingri, newspaper, 70–75, 95–101; plain of, 70; its fauna and flora, 96, 295–7; origin of name, 282, 323
• Tinki, fort and village, 58, 162; birds of, 294; pass, 60, 162, 321; flowers of, 295
• Trangso Chumbab, rest-house, 65
• Transport, 27–8, 34–5, 45, 48, 60, 65, 69, 86, 92, 158–9, 165, 173, 284. See Coolies, Mules,Yaks
• Trintang, village, 326
• Tropde, village, 326
• Tsakor, village, 70
• Tsamda, 99, 321
• Tsampa, 172–3, 222, 337
• Tsang, province, 70
• Tsangpo, river, 319–20
• Tsering, five peaks, 326
• Tsogo, 65, 159
• Tsomotretung, lake, 61
• Tsong Kapa, monk, 173
• Tulsi Dass, gardener, 32
• Tulung, village, 323
• Tuna, rest-house, 48
• Turubaz Khan, surveyor, 319, 321
•  
• Wakefield, Dr. A. W., 313
• Waugh, Sir A., 10, 12, 13
• Weather. See Monsoon, Rainfall,Wind
• West cwm of Everest, 208–9, 212, 214
• Wheeler, Major, E. O., 20, 26, 52, 164, 252, 320; expedition to Kyetrak, 74, 77–81, 98, 330–33; to Rongbuk Valley, 102, 333–36; discovers E. Rongbuk glacier, 217, 240, 247–8, 334; arrives at Kharta, 249; to Lhakpa La, 140–44, 257; to Chang La, 144–5, 258–61; returns by Kama Valley, 146–153, 337, and Teesta Valley, 164, 337; map by, 312, 328, 338; account of photographic survey by, 329–337
• Wind, 50, 72, 75, 147–8, 171, 178, 265, 308, 342. See Snow
• Wollaston, A. F. R., 20, 26; returns with Raeburn to Sikkim, 56; rejoins at Tingri, 74, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97, 108, 323–25; described by him, 281–89; at Kharta, 249; to Lhakpa La, 140 ff., 257–8; returns by Kama Valley, 146–153, 165, 342; natural history notes by, 290–303, 344–350; collections, 312
•  
• Yaks, 61, 81, 161, 171, 286, 294, etc.
• Yaru, river, 56–7, 61–3, 101–2
• Yatung, 38–9, 177
• Younghusband, Sir F., 1, 15–17, 19, 20
•  
• Zachar-chu. See Dzakar-chu
• Zambu, village, 81