As soon as that Minister was return'd to London, the Congress was open'd at Utrecht for a Peace; and France and England mutually sent their Ambassadors to one another. The Duke d'Aumont was appointed to go in that quality to the Court of England; and before he departed, the King gave him the Order of the Holy Ghost. This Nobleman was perfectly welcome to the Court-Party at London, which was desirous of Peace; but was an Eye-sore to the opposite Party, who hated to hear the mention of it. The French Ambassador was insulted, and treated with such Outrage, that his House was set on fire, and the Loss thereby sustain'd was very considerable; the said Duke having borrow'd the richest Furniture of several Persons, which was entirely burnt. The Duke of Orleans thereby lost a noble Suit of Hangings, and several very scarce Pictures.

The Person who was sent to France, as Ambassador from the Court of England, was the Duke of Shrewsbury, whose Reception by the King, the Court and the Kingdom was sufficient Demonstration how well they lik'd the Commission which he came to negotiate. This Ambassador kept no very great Table at the Court of France; nor was his Equipage very gay. He was indeed a Nobleman of very great Merit, but of a mean Presence; for he was blind of one Eye, and exclusive of that Defect no body would hardly have taken him for a Nobleman, if he had not been adorn'd with the Order of the Garter. He had his Duchess with him, who was an Italian Lady by Birth, and Sister to the famous P——, so well known in England for his Extravagancies and his tragical Exit. The Duke of Shrewsbury was betroth'd to her in Italy, and married in England. This Duchess appear'd at the Court of France with the most Foreign Air in the World. The Duchess d'Aumont was to have introduc'd her to the King and the Princesses; but as she was at that time indispos'd, she desir'd Madame de Chatillon to perform the Office for her. The King receiv'd the Ambassadress with great Marks of Distinction; and she was afterwards introduc'd to Madame, where she found a numerous Company that came thither out of meer Curiosity; and there it was that I had the Honor of seeing her. She seem'd at first in such Confusion, as if she had never liv'd in any Court, but by degrees she took courage. She talk'd a great deal, and talk'd well.

The same Night the Duchess of Shrewsbury was with the King at Supper, where she was plac'd in the Rank of the Duchesses, exactly behind the Duke of Berry. She talk'd a great deal to this Prince, tho' she had only a Glimpse of him once before at the Duchess of Berry's Apartment. All the Supper-time she did nothing but twitch him by the Sleeve, to advise him not to eat so much. Every body was very much surpriz'd to see this Familiarity of her's; and I observ'd that the Duke of Berry was not a little confounded at it. I forgot to mention one Circumstance wherein I thought the King was over and above polite. As he came to the Table he pass'd by the Duchess of Shrewsbury, without seeing her; but just as he was going to sit down, M. de Livry the Chief Steward acquainted him, that the Ambassadress of England was come to his Supper. Upon this, the King return'd that instant to the Place where she was, and said to her, That he had pass'd her without saluting her, because he did not see her; and that, he thought she was so fatigu'd with the Visits she had made in the Day that she was retir'd. The King also desir'd her to go and repose her self; but she made her Excuse and said, That 'twas impossible to have the Honor of paying Duty to so great a King as his Majesty, and to complain of Fatigue.

The Duchess of Shrewsbury was much of the same Temper as her Lord the Ambassador: She did not care for expensive Living. I remember that one day when I was at the Palace of Soissons, where she lodg'd, the Duchess de ----, who was a very gay Lady, wou'd fain have engag'd the Ambassadress to give a Ball: for this purpose she signify'd what a general Melancholy there was all over France, on account of the Death of the Princes, and a War of several years continuance; and said, every body expected that the Duke of Shrewsbury, who was come over to France to bring Peace, would also be inclinable to procure the Return of those Pleasures which so many Calamities had banish'd. But it all avail'd nothing; for the Ambassadress made answer to the Duchess, that she should be very glad to see a general Mirth at Paris; and that she thought the Duke of Shrewsbury had brought the French such important News, as wou'd have put an end to all Sadness for the past Misfortunes, without expecting him to procure other Pleasures. 'Twas to no purpose therefore to insist any longer on a Ball from that Quarter.

You will undoubtedly be surpriz'd, Madame, when you hear who was the Person that gave the first Ball, instead of the Ambassador of England. 'Twas I that reviv'd Paris out of that fatal Lethargy, into which it seem'd to be fallen. I gave a Ball at Carneaux, or rather Mesdames de la M—— D—— and de V—— gave it for me. These Ladies having in form desir'd me to give a Ball, I immediately excus'd my self, on the consideration that as I was a Stranger it did not become me to set a Pattern for Entertainments, especially for a Peace which could be of no farther Advantage to me, than as it would indeed enable me to live more to my Satisfaction, in a Country where it had been long wish'd for. Moreover, there were other Reasons much of the same nature as those that govern'd the Duke of Shrewsbury, which made me grudge the Expence of a Ball that I foresaw would be very chargeable. My Arguments had some weight with the Ladies; but a Ball they were resolv'd to have, and therefore they made a Proposal to me, that if I would give them but ten Lewid'ors there should be a Ball, and I should have nothing else to do but to give out at the Opera and the Comedy, that there would be a Ball such a day at Carneaux. This I did not fail to do, and wherever I came I found People very well inclin'd to be present at the Assembly. The Ladies on their part hir'd the great Hall of the Carneaux, which they caus'd to be very finely illuminated, and having provided a very good Concert of Music there, they caus'd the Ball to be open'd by their Waiting-Women and Valets de Chambre. I supp'd with the Ladies that Evening, and ingenuously own'd to them that I did not very well know what Effect a Ball of that sort would have at Paris. After a good deal of joke upon it we went thither as soon as ever we had supp'd, and I confess that in my Life I never saw more Maskers. They crouded one another from the very Gate of the Court into the Hall, where the People were ready to faint for the very Heat, and did not know whom to apply to for a drop of Water: Every body rav'd against the Ball, and against the Person that gave it. But by good luck they did not know whom they were oblig'd to for such an Entertainment. Mean time I had the Precaution to provide some Refreshments for the Ladies in my Company, and they were not ill bestow'd. This Ball drew me in to give ten or a dozen other Entertainments of the like kind, and altogether as unprovided of Refreshments. Yet notwithstanding the general Thirst complain'd of for want of Liquor, and the Curses that I heard them utter against the Undertaker, there was always a vast Croud of Masqueraders.

Thus, Madame, did I pass my time at Paris, I kept the greatest and the gayest Company, and I had pretty good Fortune at Play, which, together with what was remitted to me from home, put me in a Condition to live there like a Prince. I made fresh Acquaintance every day, and they gave me fresh Pleasures, till I receiv'd News which troubled me very much, viz. the Death of our King Frederic I. which happen'd on the 15th of February this Year, and was occasion'd by one of the saddest Accidents that could have fallen out. 'Twas the Queen herself who in one of those Vertigo's, to which she had been for some time past subject, frighten'd the King so that he never recover'd it. It happen'd thus:

The Queen had for a long while given herself up to more than ordinary Devotion, and to a rigid Life not very agreeable to her natural Temper. But the Princess thought 'twas the best Course she could take, to stop the Mouths of those who had been so audacious as to give out that before her Marriage she was not always the Fondest of Retirement. The recluse and self-denying Life she led after Marriage, made her subject to Vapors, which ended in Frenzy, the Fits whereof were terrible. The King was not acquainted with her unhappy Disorder for a long time, till at last the Queen being one day in a more outragious Fit than ordinary, was so strong as to get loose from the Ladies that had the Care of her Person, and being but half dress'd, with her Hair dishevel'd, she went thro' a private Gallery to the King's Apartment. As she enter'd it she broke a Glass-Door, by which she cut both her Hands and Arms; and in this bloody pickle rush'd in upon the King like a Fury, and abus'd him with such Reproaches as would never have enter'd into the head of the poor Princess, if she had been well. The King, who was at the same time somewhat indispos'd, was taking a Nap in an easy Chair; but he started out of his Sleep, and imagin'd himself in the hands of a Ghost, every thing contributing to confirm him in that Notion. For the Queen having her Hair flying about her Temples, and no Clothes on but an Under-Petticoat, and a quilted Waistcoat of Marseilles Linnen, and her Arms and Face being moreover of a Gore-Blood, the King fancy'd her to be the White Woman[42], and did so much believe that this Apparition was a certain Presage of his approaching Dissolution, that it threw him the same Instant into a Fever, which oblig'd him to take to his Bed, and he never recover'd it. This Prince lay ill for near six Weeks, during which he had the Consolation to see how dear he was to his Subjects; for one day as he thought himself a little better, so that the Physicians began to have hopes of his Recovery, he caus'd himself to be carry'd towards a Window, from whence he saw the whole Square full of People, who were offering up Vows to Heaven for his Life. This was so moving a Scene to him, that the generous Prince could not refuse a Tribute of Tears for the Tenderness of his People. But their Prayers were not heard; and his Majesty died at Berlin with a Constancy and Courage worthy of him, after having given excellent Instructions to his Son the Prince Royal.

This young Prince was heartily griev'd for the Death of the King his Father, and as soon as he had receiv'd the first Homages of the Margraves who were the late King's Brothers, and of the whole Court, he shut himself up in his Apartment where he abandon'd himself to that Lamentation which he had reason to make for the Loss he had sustain'd. The Person that notify'd his Death to the Courtiers who crouded the Apartments, was M. de Printz, the Grand Marshal. They say, that when this Nobleman made his appearance to proclaim the melancholy News, it so seiz'd him that he could only say, The King, the King, the King! his redoubled Sighs discovering the rest that his Tongue had not power to declare.

The King's Funeral Obsequies were very magnificent. In the Streets, from the Palace to the place of Interment, several Regiments of Soldiers were drawn up in a Line on each side. The new King accompany'd the Convoy, and when the Corpse was deposited in the Royal Vault he went out of the Church, and mounting on horseback put himself at the Head of the Troops which made three Discharges of small Arms, and at the same time the Cannon were fir'd from the Ramparts. Thus, Madame, were the last Devoirs paid to Frederic our First King.

As to the Queen, the Physicians were of Opinion that her Native Air would be of service to her, and therefore she was carry'd to her Mother's Seat at Grabau in Mecklemburg, where she still remains, but without any Hopes as yet of her Recovery.

After the Death of Frederic I. the King his Son dismiss'd the whole Court, the three Companies of Life-Guards were broke, and the Guard of the hundred Swiss sent home to their own Country: In short, every thing assum'd a new Face. I saw, and was really mortify'd to see, that there was nothing more for me to hope for in my own Country. Nevertheless, tho' I thought I should have broke my Heart the first Moment that I receiv'd the melancholy News, my Sorrow was of no long duration. I had not, indeed, a very splendid Fortune to be my Comfort, but I was so young that I presum'd to think I should never come to want. Besides, my Birth was some Relief to my Mind; and to tell you the plain truth of the matter, as Things stood with me at that time, I was quite in love with Paris, which was reason good enough why I should not devote myself long to Melancholy.

Happening to be at the Fair of St. Germain, I there contracted Love for another Mistress. I had no reason to be asham'd of the choice I then made, because I might have hop'd to have been possess'd of every thing that was capable of fixing a Man of Gallantry. I abandon'd my self intirely to this new Amour, and as I was naturally fond of Expence, I laid out such a Sum that all my Friends were startled at it. My Equipages, Clothes, Liveries, &c. were all of the utmost Magnificence, and the frequent Presents that I made were very rich. But I was soon reduc'd to a Necessity of making very serious Reflections upon my past Conduct; tho' I had no body to blame but myself; for as to Mademoiselle de S—— (which was the Name of the Angel I ador'd) she would certainly have been well enough pleas'd with a Lover less profuse, so that with a little Oeconomy I might have made a gay Figure at Paris: But my new Passion would not suffer me to think so close of my Finances, which were now so much disorder'd that I saw no Remedy, except to return to my own Country: But I was so uneasy to think of going away, that I was very loth to fix on a day for my Departure. Mean time my dear Mistress and her Mother both press'd me with Tears in abundance to undertake a Journey so necessary; the one wishing it for my own sake, and the other for the sake of her Daughter; for the good Mother was as eager after Money, as the Daughter was disinterested. At length the melancholy Day being come, I set out from Paris without bidding Farewel to any one Friend whatsoever except Madame, and the Duke of Orleans, because I hop'd to be back again speedily. I left all my Servants behind, except only one Domestic who was privy to all my Affairs.

The Day that I set out I arriv'd about five o'clock in the Evening at Roye in Picardy, where I was told I could not proceed farther for want of Post-Horses, the Duke of Ossuna who was gone Ambassador of Spain to the Treaty at Utrecht, having taken them all up. I resolv'd therefore to go on with those that brought me to Roye. I halted at very sad Quarters, at a place betwixt Roye and Peronne. The first thing I did was to go to Bed, and really need enough I had of Rest; for my Head was so confus'd with a thousand different Thoughts, that I felt my Brains work almost as if I had been light-headed. But when I was in Bed 'twas much worse with me, I still indulg'd Melancholy. One while I wanted to go back again to Paris, whither my Love call'd me strongly. On the other hand, I was sensible of the sad Necessity of pursuing my Journey. In short, Swarms of different Inclinations succeeded each other; but at last, after a long debate with my self, I resolv'd to return to Paris. The time when I made this noble Resolution was about two o'clock in the Morning. I got up that Moment, and call'd for my Valet. As he lay in another part of the House which was separate from my Apartment, I thought 'twas better to go my self and awake him, than to lose my time in calling for him. I went out of my Chamber accordingly, but as ill luck would have it, I had not observ'd, or rather the confusion I was in made me forget that my Chamber-Door open'd into a Gallery that run round the House. This Gallery was so lately built that they had not time to put Rails to it, so that before I had gone two steps I had the finest tumble that ever I made in my Life. I fell from the Gallery into the Yard, and by good luck upon a heap of Dung, otherwise I might have been wounded, if not kill'd; so that all the harm I had was the surprize to find my self sinking in a Matrass as offensive as 'tis possible to conceive. My greatest perplexity was then to contrive how to get out of it, and to find the way back to my Chamber: But the Night was so dark, and I was so little acquainted with the House where I lodg'd, that I despair'd of getting out without Help; I began then to call out lustily for my Valet. But the Rascal never heard me, and indeed I was inform'd soon after, that he had been drunk, so that his Liquor had plung'd him into a profound Sleep. Seeing that I had to do with one that was as deaf as a Post, I thought fit to call out aloud for Mary, Catherine, Joan, and other Names, hoping that there was some Servant-Maid in the House, whom one at least of these Names would fit: Nor was I deceiv'd, for one of the Maids came to my Assistance, but the Wench taking me for a Spirit ran away in an instant, with a great Cry of Jesu-Maria. I was then terribly mortify'd: At this rate I plainly saw I should be forc'd to spend the rest of the Night in the Dunghill, and to wait with patience till the whole Family was risen. What made me the more apprehensive of the Consequences of this Disaster was, that tho' we were got into the Summer Season, yet the Nights were cold, and I had nothing over my Shirt but a Taffeta Night-Gown. I began again therefore to call and baul so loud, that at length some of the Family ran out to see what was the matter; but like the Servant-Maid they all took me for a Ghost come to haunt the House, and were afraid to come near me. At length, all this Noise awak'd my Valet, who ran out in his Shirt. He imagin'd at first that there had been a Design to murder me, but when I bid him put the Horses in my Chaise, he thought I was crazy; and indeed, I was pretty far gone that way. I repeated my Order to get my Chaise ready, that I might be gone that instant. My Valet, who had scarce recover'd from the Surprize he was in at my giving such an Order, said, Alas, Sir, be easy; 'tis but two o'clock in the Morning yet, at five you shall be gone. I told him, that he was a Fool, and that go I would. But he, like other Skipkennels who are apt to be fancy if their Masters treat them with any degree of Familiarity, refus'd point-blank to obey me. He said that I had no Consideration, that because I could not sleep my self I hinder'd others from sleeping; that I roll'd along the Day in an easy Chaise, whereas he rode generally upon very sorry Horses; that in short he wanted Rest, and that he would not set out till he had two Hours more Sleep, and had a good Breakfast. I was like to have been in a Passion, but saw 'twas to no purpose, and therefore we split the Difference; he compounded with me not to go to Bed again, and I gave him leave to take his Breakfast. When he thought fit to make an end, I got into my Chaise, and order'd the Postillion to strike into the Road for Paris. Then my Valet imagin'd indeed that I was crack-brain'd; he said I was wrong, and that we must turn into the Road to the Netherlands. I order'd him to hold his tongue, and go on. The poor Boy being confirm'd more and more in his Notion that I was Kite-headed, was wonderful uneasy, and at every Stage came with a sorrowful Countenance to the side of my Chaise to know how I did, and if I wanted any thing. At length I arriv'd at Paris, where all that knew of my Departure were startled to see me return'd so soon. I feign'd my self very much out of order, and that I came back again for fear of a Fit of Sickness, in which case I chose to be at Paris rather than any where else. But no body would believe me, for they thought that some Love-Affair at heart was the sole cause of my returning in such a hurry. I stay'd three Days at Paris, but did not go once to Versailles for fear of Madame, who was a Princess that did not love such Frolics, and I for my part did not love Reprimands, and therefore I thought it best to keep out of her way. Mean time the very same reason that determined me the first time to take a Journey to my own Country still subsisted, and at last I quitted Paris in good earnest, tho' I was resolv'd to be absent as little a while as possible.

I went the common Road to Brussels, and from thence through Breda and Gorcum, to Utrecht; having a desire to see in what state the Congress was, which was then held at that place.

Breda, which is a Place of Strength, situate on the River of Mercke, is part of Dutch Brabant, and one of the most considerable Towns in the Netherlands. This City and its Territory has the Title of a Barony, and has had several Masters. The last Owners of it were the Princes of Nassau, who acquired it in 1404, by Eagelbert of Nassau's Marriage with Joan the only Daughter of the Lord of Leck, who was Sovereign of Breda. Henry de Nassau founded the Castle in this Town, and the Tomb of René is still to be seen in the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, which was founded about the Year 1303. This City suffer'd very much towards the latter end of the sixteenth Century, during the Wars for Religion. 'Twas at first seiz'd by the Confederates, who form'd the Republic of the United Provinces. The Prince of Parma took it from them the 18th of June 1581; but Prince Maurice of Orange made himself Master of it in 1590, by means of a Boat laden with Turf, under which he had caus'd about threescore Soldiers to be conceal'd, who made themselves Masters of the Castle, and thereby gave the Prince an Opportunity to take the Town by Capitulation. They tell a very remarkable Story of one of the Soldiers that was hid in that Boat, viz. That having a Necessity of coughing, he desir'd one of his Comrades to kill him outright, for fear that his impertinent Cough should discover the Stratagem. This Soldier richly deserv'd to have his Name transmitted to Posterity; for sure a Roman could not have said a more gallant Thing, and an Instance of inferior Courage to this would perhaps have been rewarded with a Statue. Some Years after the Reduction of Breda, the great Spinola General of the Spanish Forces, besieg'd and took it after a Siege, or rather Blockade of eleven Months. 'Twas a fourth time besieg'd by Frederic-Henry Prince of Orange, who took it after a Siege of four Months, and then it came into the hands of the Dutch, who have remain'd Masters of it ever since, and have considerably augmented its Fortifications; and as the Place is situate in very Marshy Ground, they have erected Sluices there, by means of which they can easily lay all the neighbouring Country under Water. For the rest, this is not one of the best built Cities in the Netherlands, and were it not for its Ramparts would be a very inconsiderable Place. The King of Prussia, by virtue of his Pretensions to the Succession of William III. King of England, adds to his Titles that of Baron of Breda.

Having pass'd through Gorcum, which I thought a Town of very little consequence, I came to Utrecht[43], which is one of the most noted Cities in the Netherlands, and gives Name to one of the seven Provinces, whereof it is the Capital. It was formerly a Bishop's See, and the Bishops were Sovereigns of the Province, and Princes of the Empire. The Dukes of Brabant and Cleves, the Counts of Holland and Guelderland, and other Sovereigns to the number of twenty-eight, were Feudataries to its Bishop. The Emperor Charlemain, that great Founder of Bishoprics, annex'd so Many Prerogatives to this with a View of engaging the Bishops to act with Zeal for Conversion of the Pagans who possess'd a Part of the Neighbouring Countries. Philip II. erected this Bishopric into an Archbishopric in favor of Schenck of Tautenbourg; but he did not enjoy the new Dignity long, for at the same time that this Country revolted from Spain, the Protestant Religion was introduc'd into it, and the Archbishop was expell'd. Henry of Bavaria was the last Bishop who was Sovereign of this Country, but his Subjects rebell'd against him and turn'd him out. This Bishop implor'd the Protection of Charles V. to whom with the Consent of his Clergy and States he transferr'd the Temporal Dominion of the Country in 1528, and from thence he was translated to the Bishopric of Worms. The famous Union of the seven Provinces, to which the Establishment of the Republic is owing, was concluded at Utrecht the 13th of January, 1579.

The City of Utrecht is famous also for the Birth of Pope Adrian VI, in 1459. They say this Pontiff was of mean Extraction, and was only oblig'd to his own Merit for his Advancement. The Emperor Maximilian trusted him with the Education of Charles his Grandson. He was afterwards sent to Spain with the Title of Ambassador to King Ferdinand, who gave him the Bishopric of Tortosa. Upon that Monarch's Death he shar'd the Regency of Spain with the Cardinal Ximenes, and afterwards remained sole Viceroy of that Kingdom. He was made a Cardinal the first of July 1517, by Pope Leo X. and chose Pope the ninth of January 1522.

While I am thus making Digressions in speaking of the City of Utrecht, you will also permit me to tell you that this City gave birth to the famous Anna-Maria Schuurman, that learned Lady who spoke Latin, Greek, Hebrew, the Syriac, Chaldee, Italian, Spanish, and French Languages as fluently as the Low Dutch, which was her Mother-Tongue. She also knew how to paint in Miniature, and to engrave both with the Graving Tool and the Diamond upon Copper and Glass. Queen Christina of Sweden did her the same Honor, as Alexander formerly did to Diogenes, for she went to pay her a Visit, and was surpriz'd at the Beauty of her Performances. This most ingenious Artist of her Sex died in 1678, at 71 Years of Age.

Balderic of Cleves the fifteenth Bishop of Utrecht, caus'd this City to be encompass'd with Walls; and Charles V. built its Castle, which has at present nine Bastions, two Half-moons, and a Hornwork. They say that the great Church dedicated to St. Martin, was built in the Year 630 by King Dagobert; and after it was destroy'd, together with all the other Buildings in the City by the Normans, Adelbolde the 19th Bishop caus'd it to be rebuilt and consecrated in 1024, in presence of the Emperor Henry II. and twelve Bishops. It was ruin'd a second time, but was magnificently rebuilt. There's a very fine Tower at the Entrance 388 Foot high, from whence fifteen or sixteen Towns may be seen distinctly.

There's a better Air at Utrecht than in the other Towns of Holland, the Ground it stands on being much higher, and by consequence not so marshy. This Town, which is situate upon the old Channel of the Rhine, is incompass'd with a fine fruitful Plain, and has charming Walks in the Neighbourhood, which are not inferior to those at the Hague.

The French were at one time Masters of this Place, but on the 13th of November 1673, it reverted to its lawful Sovereigns. When I arriv'd here I heard that the Peace was just sign'd by the Plenipotentiaries of France and Spain on the one part, and by the Ministers of England, Portugal, Prussia, Savoy and Holland, on the other part. The principal Conditions were, That Philip V. should remain in possession of the Crown of Spain, on condition nevertheless that he should renounce the Succession to the Crown of France, for himself and his Descendants: That England should have Gibraltar in Spain, and Port-Mahon in the Mediterranean: That Dunkirk should be demolish'd: France, by the way, was very loth to consent to the ruin of a Place which had already cost her several Millions, and requir'd a considerable Expence moreover to demolish. The Elector of Brandenburg was recogniz'd King of Prussia, both by France and Spain, and had even the Title of Majesty given him, which France never us'd to allow to the Kings of Denmark and Poland. To the King of Prussia was also yielded what he before possess'd in Spanish Guelderland, as an Equivalent for the Principality of Orange, which that Monarch yielded to France. The Duke of Savoy was own'd King of Sicily, and he obtain'd some Places in the Milanese. The King of Portugal remain'd peaceable Possessor of the Conquests which he had made during the War. The Dutch got least of all by the Peace, and perhaps they repented that they did not accept of the Terms offer'd them at Gertruydenberg.

As soon as I arriv'd at Utrecht, I did not fail to make a Visit to the Ambassadors of Prussia, who were the Count de Denhoff, the Count de Metternich, and the Marshal de Biberstein. They receiv'd me with all the Civility possible, and presented me to all the Foreign Ministers. I found at this City the Countess Dowager of Wartemberg, who was lately come hither. The Count her Husband, who died at Francfort, desir'd upon his Death-bed that his Corpse might be carried to Berlin, which was perform'd with a good deal of Pomp. They say, that the late King, who was very fond of him, as I have already had the Honor to mention to you, wou'd needs see his Funeral Convoy; and as it pass'd before the Windows of his Castle he could not refrain shedding Tears. Perhaps he then repented that he had disgrac'd that Minister on such slight Pretences; and perhaps too, the melancholy Spectacle put him in mind of that unavoidable Coast, on which both the Majesty of Kings, and the Magnificence of Courtiers, will at last be run ashore.

The Countess of Wartemberg was more undaunted. She was far from indulging any mortifying Reflection; but on the contrary, was glad to find her self in possession of a very great Estate; and gladder still to think that she was uncontroulable. She left Francfort where she had resided ever since her Husband's Disgrace; and thinking that too melancholy a Place to spend her Life in, she made choice of the City of Utrecht, as the most gay of any that she knew. She soon had an Intrigue or two upon her hands; and when I arriv'd, I heard that the Chevalier de B—— was her Bosom Friend. This Gentleman was newly set out for Versailles, with a Commission to carry the News of the Peace. I was not much concerned whether I made any Visit to the Countess; for I observ'd that all of our Court who were then at Utrecht, were shy of her to such a degree, that I did not care to be the only one that shew'd any Regard for her. But tho' I had resolv'd not to visit her, I happen'd to fall in her Way. This Lady had brought a French Gentlewoman with her, whom I knew very well at Berlin; and as she had Wit at will, I had a mind to renew my Acquaintance with her, the rather because I had a Curiosity to know a little of the Countess's History. The first time I paid her a Visit she made me an Offer to carry me to see the Countess of Wartemberg; which I refus'd in such a manner that she did not insist upon my going. But she thought fit to tell the Countess that I was lately come to Utrecht; that I had paid her a Visit; and that she thought I perfectly resembled the Chevalier de B——. There needed no other Motive to set the Countess agog to see me; and she desir'd her Gentlewoman to bring me to her. But notwithstanding all her Persuasion, I peremptorily refus'd it. At last, as I was making a Visit one day to the Gentlewoman, who should bounce into the Room where I was, but the Countess de Wartemberg. She said, that tho' I scorn'd her so much as not to make her a Visit, she had resolv'd to come and see me. I was going to reply, but the Countess, without giving me time to speak, told me, that she thought me alter'd much for the better; that no two drops of Water were more like than I, and the Chevalier de B——; and that in short we perfectly resembled each other even in the Tone of our Voice: But by Madam de Wartemberg's leave, there never were two People more unlike. The Knight Commander was a handsome well-set Man, which you know, Madame, is a Character I never had the Vanity to affect; and I thought every part of the Countess's Compliment so extraordinary, that in truth, a Scholar just come from the College could not have been more dash'd than I was. I made an Answer, 'tis true, but to tell you frankly, I knew not what I said. I gave her my Hand, and led her to her own Apartment, where she still descanted upon the mighty Resemblance betwixt the Chevalier and me. In fine, I think I may venture to say, without giving my self an Air as if I was the Darling of the Fair Sex, and without passing in your Opinion for a Coxcomb, that 'twas my own fault I was not taken, in Body and Soul, for the Chevalier; but I was so fortunate as to be disintangled by a Valet de Chambre, who came to acquaint her of the Arrival of M. Menager the third Plenipotentiary of France at the Congress, to whom I had Obligations for bringing me out of this Scrape. This kind of Visit made me take proper Measures to prevent any more such, for the little time I had to stay in this City.

From Utrecht I went to Wesel, and from thence thro' Westphalia to the Duchy of Magdebourg. The City of this Name was formerly an Archbishopric, erected by the Emperor Otho the Great in favor of the Vandals newly converted, but by the Peace of Westphalia the whole Country was seculariz'd with the Title of a Duchy, in favor of the Brandenburg Family, in Exchange for that part of Pomerania which was yielded to the Swedes. There are few Towns in Germany that have suffer'd so many Revolutions as Magdebourg. This City was put under the Ban of the Empire in 1553, by Charles V. for refusing Submission to his Orders, for it was then in open Rebellion, so that the Elector Maurice of Saxony was sent to reduce it. The Siege lasted a whole Year, the Elector not being very much in haste to push on the Conquest. As this War was undertaken purely for the Destruction of the Protestant Religion, which this City had embraced; the Elector, who was himself a Protestant, thought by spinning out the Siege to regain the good Opinion of those of his Religion, who were uneasy to see him support the Interests of the Emperor and the Catholics. The Elector however made them easy, by promising the Protestants of Magdebourg, that he would join them in the War against the Emperor, immediately after the Surrender of the Place. Matters were transacted on both sides with very great sincerity. The Place surrender'd, and the Elector entered it not as a victorious Prince, but rather as an Ally who brought Relief to it. He made use of the Garison to reinforce his Army, and then declar'd War against the Emperor, on pretence that the Religion and Liberty of Germany were in danger.

A Change of this nature was so extraordinary, that the Emperor could not expect it: For this Prince had himself promoted the Elector of Saxony to the Dignity he possess'd, after having depriv'd the unfortunate Frederic of his Dominions; and for so considerable a Present he might very well hope the Elector would have made him grateful Returns. The Emperor therefore was so far from thinking himself oblig'd to be on his Guard for fear of Surprise, that he imagin'd himself in a State of perfect Security, when the Elector of Saxony had like to have surpriz'd him at Inspruck the Capital of Tirol. The Emperor knew nothing of the Plot, till he was on the point of being made Prisoner; and 'twas with much ado that he escap'd, for he was at that time ill of the Gout, and oblig'd to leave both his Equipage and Domestics behind him. He would upon this occasion have given the Prince John-Frederic his Liberty, but this Prince was loth to abandon him in this Misfortune, and accompany'd him into Carinthia, twenty-eight Leagues from Inspruck, where the Emperor made his Retreat.

The City of Magdebourg was a very great Sufferer in the War, which is commonly call'd, The War of thirty Years, because during that Term Germany was ravag'd on all sides. Tilly the Emperor's General besieg'd it in 1631, when 'twas taken by Storm, and all the Inhabitants put to the Sword. A Fire also had a part in its Destruction, and committed such Ravage that Magdebourg, which was one of the finest Cities in Germany, was intirely reduc'd to Ashes. The Burghers indeed had no body but themselves to blame for their Misfortune, for General Tilly would not have treated them so severely if they had not refus'd an advantageous Capitulation, of which he made them an Offer some days before the Storm.

But since this Town has been in the hands of the Brandenburg Family, the Electors have taken care to fortify it so well, that it would now be a hard matter to take it. The late King caus'd a Citadel to be built here, which is separated from the City by the Elbe. The present King has added considerable Works to it, which are remarkably substantial and magnificent. His Majesty has also caus'd a very fine Arsenal to be built in the Great Square, which tho' not very large, is stor'd with a considerable number of Cannon and other Arms. On the Right hand of this Square is the Great Church, formerly the Cathedral, a Gothic Building, where meets the Chapter which is still subsisting, tho' Protestant; and according to ancient Custom, none are admitted into it but Men of Quality.

The Situation of Magdebourg is very fine, having an Outlet on all sides to spacious Plains, that are very fruitful in Corn. The Elbe, which, as I have said, separates the Citadel from the Town, renders its Commerce also very easy with Hamburg, Saxony and Bohemia, for which reason several Merchants are settled here who have noble Houses. And since the King has transferr'd the Regency of the Country hither from Hall, the Town grows every day finer, so that it may now be reckon'd one of the most beautiful Towns in the two Circles of Saxony.

From Magdebourg in my Way to Berlin I pass'd thro' Brandenburg, which is a City on the River Havel, that was built by M. Branden, a Prince of Franconia. 'Twas heretofore a Bishopric, but now the whole Country is seculariz'd, and makes a part of the Marquisate of Brandenburg. Here is a considerable Trade, and the King keeps a Garison in it, consisting of a Battalion of the tall Grenadiers. You have so often seen the Regiment of which this Battalion is a part, that 'tis needless to commend it to you farther than to observe, that 'tis perhaps the finest Regiment in Europe.

I did not stay at Brandenburg, because I would be the sooner at Berlin. On the day that I arrived there I was so tir'd with having walk'd all Day and Night, that I kept my Bed till the Evening, when I had the Honor to wait on the Queen, the King having been gone a few days before to Potzdam, Her Majesty kept her Chamber, and had not been out of it since her last Lying-in, when she was deliver'd of the Princess Charlotta-Albertina, who died the Year following on the 10th of June. I was so coldly receiv'd by her Majesty, that I had no reason to hope for favor at Court, or at least with her Majesty. But the Margravines receiv'd me with all the Civility possible. The Margravine-Dowager especially assur'd me that she would continue that Protection with which she had always honor'd me.

As to the City of Berlin, it had not yet dry'd up its Tears for the Loss it had lately sustain'd, by the Death of Frederic. 'Tis true the King his Son gave great hopes, but the thorough Change he had made in his Court, caus'd the late King to be lamented. The new Monarch thought of nothing but keeping up a numerous Army, and that he might do this without laying a Burden upon his Subjects, he dismiss'd all his Court, and the intire Houshold of the King his Father, so that there was nobody at Court but the Ministers. Most of the Persons of Quality who lived heretofore at Berlin, were retir'd either to their Estates or their Governments, which made the City a most melancholy Place to stay in, and all these Alterations convinc'd me that there was nothing for me to expect in this Country. I therefore resolv'd to settle all my Domestic Affairs with the utmost speed, designing to return forthwith to Paris. Before I went thither, I made a Trip to Zell, in order to examine the Accompts of a Person I had deputed as my Attorney to receive the Deeds of my Mother's Estate. But to my sorrow, my Mother had by her Will devis'd the greatest part of her Estate to the Children she had by her former Husband, so that what I could lay claim to was far short of what I promis'd my self.

From Zell I went to Hambourg[44], purely to see that City. I had travel'd thither once before, but was then so young that I was not in a Capacity to take notice of any thing in this City worthy of Remark. Hambourg, which is one of the best Towns in Germany, is a part of Lower Saxony, being situate upon the Elbe a few Leagues from the Mouth of that River, which is a great Conveniency to its Trade. Before it was erected into a Republic 'twas a part of Holstein, on the Territory of which it was built; and therefore it had frequent Quarrels with the Dukes of Holstein, and the Kings of Denmark, who are the Sovereigns of Holstein. The latter, as well as the Swedes, have attempted several times to make themselves Masters of Hambourg, but have been repuls'd as often as they came before it: For this City is not easy to be reduc'd, because it has noble Ramparts and very strong Out-works, and it also takes care to be well provided with Artillery, and a good Garrison. Moreover, 'tis always sure of the Protection of the Families of Brandenburg and Brunswic, it being so advantagiously situated, that 'tis the Interest of both, that no Power whatsoever should take it.

Hambourg is also very considerable on account of the Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are almost all Merchants, and much of the Temper of the Dutch Merchants, very greedy of Gain and thrifty. Their greatest Delight is so have Gardens at the City-Gates, pretty much in the Taste of those of Holland. The Wives of the great Merchants are as much confin'd at Hambourg, as the Women of Quality are at Venice, but I observ'd they were only pent up from Foreigners. A Man may pass his time very well in this City, where there are several Persons of Quality to see, who make their Visitors perfectly welcome. The Walks in and about this City are charming, and especially that on the Ramparts is a noble one, there being a double Row of Trees which forms an agreeable Covert, and from whence there's a Prospect finely diversify'd by noble Houses, Gardens, Woods, Meadows, &c. in the midst of which one sees the Rivers Elbe and Alster, which both together yield a charming View. The River of Alster comes into the Town and forms a Basin very like a great Pond, which has a fine Kay on the sides of it planted with several Rows of Lime-Trees, between which there's a very fine Walk.

Near Hambourg lies the Town of Altena[45]. The King of Denmark gave it this Name to banter the Deputies of Hambourg who made Remonstrances to him against his building this Town too near to theirs, and in their Discourse to the King about the Town said several times, Sie ist al te na, which in the Language of the Country signifies, it is too near. The King taking particular Notice of the Monosyllables al te na, said to the Deputies that he could not excuse himself from carrying on the Town which he was building, and that all he could do to oblige them was to order it to be call'd by the Name of Altena, which they themselves had given it. And indeed, a more significant Name could not have been put upon this Town, for 'tis situate just at the Gates of Hambourg, and is a part of Danish Holstein. It was formerly a priviledg'd Place for Bankrupts, and for all that had committed any Crime in Hambourg. But the present King of Denmark, rather than this Town should continue any longer in the Enjoyment of a Privilege which fill'd it with Knaves and Vagabonds, delivers up Malefactors to the Magistrates of Hambourg whenever they reclaim them.

Altena is remarkable for the Multiplicity of Religions which are there publickly exercis'd. I believe, that excepting Amsterdam, there is not a Town in Europe where there are so many Sects; but few of 'em are allow'd a Church. The Neighbourhood of this Town to Hambourg, and its Situation moreover upon the Elbe, does great Prejudice to that City. 'Tis now several years since Altena was burnt by the Swedes, under the Command of the Count de Steinbock; when they scarce allow'd Time to the Inhabitants to make their Escape; so that they had the Grief to be Eye-Witnesses of the burning of their Houses and Goods, and several Old Men, and a number of Infants perish'd in the Flames. I found Altena in that sorrowful State when I first went thither; but upon a Review of it since, I see that 'tis rebuilt in such a manner, that 'tis now a finer and more flourishing Town than ever. After four or five days Stay at Hambourg I set out, and never did any body go off at a more proper Time; for in a few days after it, the Plague discover'd it self in the City; upon which it was shut up, and its Communication forbid with any other Place.

I return'd thro' Zell, where I made no manner of stay, to Aix-la-Chapelle[46], an Imperial City, on the Confines of the Duchies of Juliers and Limbourg. 'Tis encompass'd with Mountains, which form so pleasant a Vale, that Charlemain chose rather to reside at Aix-la-Chapelle, than in either of the many beautiful Cities which he conquer'd. This Emperor caus'd a Collegiate Church to be built here, in which his Tomb is still to be seen; and the Memory of that Prince is to this day held in great Veneration. On the Festival of St. Charles, there's a solemn Procession here, in which the Effigies of that Monarch is carried with an Equipage which excites Laughter rather than Devotion. The Preacher's Pulpit in this same Collegiate Church is inrich'd with Plates of Gold; and they say that the Branch which hangs down before the High Altar is of the same Metal. 'Tis in this Church that many Emperors have been consecrated; and several of the Imperial Ornaments are still kept there. The Emperor is born Canon of the Church of Aix, and takes the Oath as such on the Day of his Coronation.

Certain Reliques are preserv'd at Aix-la-Chapelle, which are shew'd but once in seven years; and then they are expos'd to View from the top of a Tower in the City, during which the People gaze at them on their Knees, in the Squares and Streets leading to the said Tower. This Ceremony was perform'd when I was at Aix in 1713, at which time there was a Concourse to it of an incredible number of Pilgrims from Hungary, Tirol, and all the Provinces of Germany. Persons of superior Rank are allow'd the Liberty of going up to the top of the Tower where those Reliques are expos'd, and may look near to them, but must by no means touch them. Of all that I saw, I only remember a Smock, which they affirm was the Virgin's: There were some spots on it, which they said were the Stains of the Milk with which she suckled the Savior of the World. This Shift seem'd to be quite seamless, and made of a sort of Stuff which I know not how to describe to you, for it was neither of Linnen nor Callico.

The City of Aix is very famous for its hot Baths, and for the Waters that are taken there twice a year, viz. in Spring and Autumn; at which two Seasons there's a great Resort hither of Foreigners. The Waters are hot, and of a very unpleasant Taste, and they smell like a rotten Egg; for which reason People are loth to take them when they first come; but after they are us'd to it, they go down very well. The Baths especially are wonderfully good against the Contraction of the Sinews and against Wounds. Nor is there a Place where the Waters are us'd with more Conveniency, there being plenty of every thing that one wou'd wish for, and especially good Company; for Brabant, Liege, France, Holland and Germany, lie so near to it, that there's always a great many People here, and very good Diversion.

I set out from Aix for Paris, by the way of Maestricht and Louvain; but as I travell'd Post thro' these Towns, I shall reserve the Description of them to you, till such time as I make a longer stay in them. On my Arrival at Paris I was deeper in Love than ever. I was receiv'd by my dear Mistress with such Tokens of Love, as gave me all the reason in the world to think, that I was the happiest Man living: And in reality I was so, because at that time I knew of no other Happiness than to be in her good Graces; yet my natural Levity made me soon think otherwise. I saw the Marchioness de P——; and I will frankly own to you, that all the Veneration I had for S—— abated. I thought then there was nothing to compare with the new Object of my Passion. S—— quickly perceiv'd my Inconstancy, and reproach'd me for it; but they were Reproaches unmix'd with Gall, and such as nothing but Love can inspire. The consequence was, that my Passion for her reviv'd; and upon this occasion I was made sensible, that a Flame not well extinguish'd is always apt to burst out again; and that there needs no great Compulsion to renew the Passion of Love. The Sentiments of the Man of Honor being join'd to those of the Lover, I ask'd my own Conscience what S—— had ever done to disgust me. And in fine, I gave Judgment against my self, that I could not without Ingratitude forsake so amiable a Mistress. I took care, therefore, to absent my self by degrees from the Marchioness de P——; and found it no very hard matter to stifle a Passion, which, to speak plainly, was but a sudden Flash.

While I staid at the Court of France, I saw the Ceremony of the double Marriage of the Duke of Bourbon and the Prince of Conti, who married each other's Sister. The Duke married Mary-Anne of Bourbon-Conti, Sister to the Prince of Conti, who married Louisa-Elizabeth of Bourbon-Condé, the Duke's Sister.

These Marriages made no addition to the Pleasures of the Court, and every thing remained very quiet, till News came of the Advantages which the Marshal de Villars had gain'd over the Allies. This Campaign was both glorious and advantageous to the Marshal; and every body talk'd of the immense Sums of Money which he had put into his Pocket. His Conduct was narrowly pry'd into, and his Enemies charg'd that to him as a Crime, for which, perhaps, they would have commended any other General. They said that he brought with him several Waggons laden with Bandoliers for Safeguards; and that he got so much Money by this means, that at his Return he laid out 1,800,000 Livres in a Purchase. Nay, they had the Assurance to speak of it to the King, who said to the Marshal one day at Dinner, That he heard he had bought a fine Estate. 'Tis true, Sir, reply'd the Marshal, I have just purchas'd a very pretty Estate; and if I have the Honor to command your Army next year, I hope to buy a more considerable one and make your Enemies pay for it. This Answer quite broke the Measures of those who had endeavour'd to do the Marshal ill Offices. He knew very well that he had Enemies, but it gave him little Concern; for he was in high Favor, and he deserv'd it. They say that when he set out to make the Campaign in 1713, he said to the King at taking leave of him, I desire your Majesty to remember, that while I am going to fight your Enemies, I leave your Majesty in the midst of mine. He acquitted himself very bravely; and at length, by the Reduction of Landau and Fribourg, he procur'd that Peace, by which the Electors of Cologne and Bavaria were restor'd to their Dominions.

After I had been some Months at Paris I receiv'd Letters from Berlin, with Advice, that the King had Thoughts of forming his Houshold; and that I could not do better than to go and offer him my Service. I was not long in demurring upon what Course to take. I had always been bred up in Sentiments which convinc'd me, that to serve one's Sovereign was preferable to any other Service; and besides, I always found my self naturally attach'd to the Family of our Kings. I therefore resolv'd to leave Paris once more. You know my Humor so well, Madame, that you cannot think but it was with some Reluctance that I form'd a Resolution of this nature; and I will frankly own to you, that I was heartily grieved to leave a Place where I had my fill of Pleasures, which I knew I could not have a Taste of elsewhere: but at length I gave Attention only to my Duty; and tho' the Tears which I saw shed for my sake melted my Heart, yet they were not powerful enough to make me alter my Design.

From Paris to Wesel, I went the same Road that I came; and from Wesel I proceeded to Hanover, where I fell sick. My Design was to be incog. but the ill State of my Health oblig'd me to have recourse to a Physician; nay, I thought one while, that all the Remedies in the World would do me no good; and that 'twas high Time for me to prepare in good earnest for my last long Journey. My Kinswoman Mademoiselle de Pollnitz was soon inform'd of my Arrival; and as soon acquainted the Electoress of it, who was so gracious as to send to know how I did; and this she repeated twice every day as long as I was ill. This Princess always had a Kindness for me, which I shall for ever acknowledge. I was told, that during my Illness, F—— thinking to divert the Company at my Expence, said at the Elector's Table, That my Distemper was not mortal; that I had caught it in France; and that there were Surgeons at Hanover who had Skill enough to set me to rights. The Electoress was very angry with him, and said, Sir, your Banter is absurd; if he had the Distemper that you say, he would have staid in France for the Cure, since he is not ignorant, that the People of this Country go thither for the same Purpose; and he has too much Sense not to follow their Example.

As soon as I was able to get abroad, I did not fail to wait on the Electoress with my most humble Thanks. That Princess gave me a much better Reception than I durst presume to have expected. The Kindness which she show'd to me, induc'd Mademoiselle de Pollnitz and Madame de K—— to think, that I might easily obtain Admission into her Service if I would but ask her; and accordingly those Ladies prevail'd on me to take that Step, tho' I very much question'd my Success; and I found by Experience that my Suspicion was but too well grounded. I made my Application to the Princess by Letter; in which, perhaps, I acted indiscreetly, because I thereby gave her Leisure to take the Opinion of other People. Accordingly she did so; and to my misfortune applied to Madame de B—— who could not endure me; because, as I heard afterwards, Madame of France had acquainted the Electoress, that I told her the Electoral Prince had a particular Respect for her Ladyship. This was enough to exasperate a Person against me, who made outward Profession of the most rigid Virtue; and when the Electoress consulted her about me, she was transported to think what an infallible Opportunity she had to be reveng'd. She artfully insinuated to the Electoress, that she ought not to admit me into her Service, and did not want Reasons to back her Insinuations; the Desire of Revenge being what always supplies specious Arguments in abundance to hurt an Enemy. The Electoress so well approv'd of those she made use of to exclude me from her Service, that she order'd M. de P—— to tell me, That she was very much oblig'd to me for the Attachment which I manifested for her Person; but that she could not imagine, that after I had serv'd a King, I should like to wait upon so old a Princess as she was: That 'twould be more suitable for me to be in the Service of her Son; and that she should take a Pleasure to help me to it: But that as for her self she must stay till she was Queen of England before she could admit me into her Service; because, if that should happen, she should then be in a better Capacity to make my Fortune. You perceive, Madame, this was a Refusal that I could not well complain of, 'twas so season'd with everything to take off the Bitterness of it. For my part, I own to you that I felt none. As I had only taken this Step in pure Complaisance to Mademoiselle de Pollnitz, she was stung to the quick at this Denial; not so much for my sake (I knew very well what the matter was) but for her own; whose Vanity was very much mortify'd by it; for she thought her self in Favor, and saw 'twas a Favor without any Credit: And her Resentment proceeded so far, that she hinder'd me from taking Leave of the Electoress, who in a few days after set out for Gohr with the Prince her Son. For my part I also set out from Hanover for Berlin.

When I came thither I found the King's Houshold Officers already nominated, yet this did not hinder me from asking his Majesty for Employment. The Person who spoke for me was M. de Printz the Grand Marshal, who brought me News of a Refusal of a very different sort from what I found at Hanover. In the latter, I had no reason to complain of the Electoress, who with all the Politeness possible refus'd me a Favor, which when all is said and done, I should not have valued, if I had not ask'd for it. But now I had a very cruel Repulse, by being deny'd the only thing for which I had undertaken the Journey to Berlin. The Behaviour of the Court to me in this Instance concern'd me not a little. I had never done any thing to seclude me from an Establishment in my own Country. My Ancestors had serv'd in it, and bore such a distinguish'd Rank in it too, that I might very well think some Notice would have been taken of me. Moreover, I had the Honour of being Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the late King, but now had the Mortification of seeing Persons prefer'd before me who had never been seen at Court, and such too for most part as are of very obscure Birth. Finding therefore I had no hopes of succeeding at Court, I saw that I must go seek my Fortune elsewhere, and I thought of entring into the Service of the King of Poland. There was not a fitter Man upon earth to serve me with that Prince than his Prime Minister the Count de Flemming, who happen'd to be then at Berlin upon his Master's Affairs. I got my Friends to speak to the Count, and attended him constantly. That Minister seem'd inclinable to serve me, and promis'd to speak for me to the King his Master.

He set out for Warsaw the latter end of November, and thither I follow'd him; upon which he introduc'd me to the King, and to all the Court-Nobility. I cou'd not have set out better than I did at the Court of Poland. I was patronis'd by the Man who mov'd in the highest Sphere there, next to the King himself; and for that Reason every body strove to shew me Respect. The Count de Flemming seem'd to be pleas'd at the Regard that was paid to me; at least, I was so short-sighted as not to perceive that it was to him a matter of very great Indifference. I was excusable in not suspecting him of double dealing with me; for hitherto I had no other Reason but to applaud his Generosity, and that Good-will which he had express'd to do me Service. Endeavors were not wanting to undeceive me, and I soon after saw with my own Eyes, that the fair Promises he made to me were nothing more nor less, than what they call Court-Holy-Water.

Not long after my Arrival at Warsaw, the King of Poland set out for Germany. I thought my self bound in Interest to wait for his Return, in order to treat about my Affairs; and I spent this time at Warsaw in the most agreeable manner that could be. I was soon known by all the Polish Nobility, who were as civil to me as could be imagin'd. Every thing I beheld made me fancy I was at Paris, there being every where the same Politeness, and a certain easy Deportment which the French think none are Masters of but themselves. The Polish Ladies are very amiable, witty, and have a good deal of Sprightliness. With these Qualities, one would naturally imagine they are not indifferent to Pleasures; and I observ'd that they have a delicate and very exquisite Taste for every thing that passes under the Name of Diversions. They are passionately fond of Music, and still more of Plays. And at Warsaw they have as much of both as they desire; for the King, who is a Prince as gallant as he is magnificent, takes care that every thing be done at Court, in a manner worthy of a great Prince. He maintains a Set of French Comedians there; and moreover, frequently gives Balls and Concerts. These Diversions are generally attended with noble Feasts that the King makes for the Ladies of his Court; at which times, that Prince is always admir'd for his good Mien, and for that Gracefulness which sets off all his Actions.

The Polish Lords are not near so gay as the Ladies; or, at least, they don't come up to them for Elegance and Contrivance. Their Domestics and Equipage are generally slovenly; their Tables are indeed serv'd with Profusion, but without Delicacy, which I take to be intirely owing to the want of good Officers or skilful Cooks; for in other respects, Poland is a Country, where there is as good Cheer as any in the World. Their Butcher's Meat is delicious, and they have plenty of good Fish. Wine is not the Produce of the Country, but the want of it is not perceiv'd at the Tables of the Polish Nobility, where the Wine of Hungary, tho' very dear, is drank as common as Water. I observed one thing at the Generality of their Tables, that does not tally with the Grandeur which they pretend to, viz. That the Master of the House and his intimate Friends drink the best Wine, while the other Guests that are invited, are oblig'd to put up with the common sort. Tis to be observ'd, that tho' Poland abounds with all Necessaries for Life, yet 'tis a Country very inconvenient for Travellers, especially those who are not in a Capacity to carry every thing along with them. I have not seen a Place where there is so little Accommodation at the Public-Houses, there being hardly a Chair in them to sit down upon. Therefore the Travellers of any Fashion take care to carry all Necessaries with them. The Duke of York, Bishop of Osnabruck, said a very pertinent thing upon this occasion, viz. That he did not know a Country where Travellers were more at home than in Poland, because they were always making use of their own Furniture.

I heard that the King was shortly to go for Dresden, and therefore I set out thither immediately with the Count de Hoim, a Minister of State to his Polish Majesty. In my Way to Dresden I saw no Place of Note but Breslau and Leipsic. Breslau, the Capital of Silesia, is a pretty large and very beautiful City, which in the Winter-Season is inhabited by a great Number of Nobility. The Count de Flemming stopping there a couple of days, I halted there too. I saw very good Company here, especially at the Houses of the Count de Maltzam, and the Princess of Teschen, who was formerly the Princess Lubomirski. This Lady made a grand Figure, gave People a hearty Reception, and treated with Magnificence. I could have wish'd to have staid at Breslau a few days longer; but as the Count de Flemming, by whose Patronage I hop'd still to get some Establishment at Court, was going to the King in Saxony, I went with him to the Fair at Leipsic, where the King and Queen were already arriv'd. As the King had been absent a good while, the Princes of the Blood, and a great number of Persons of Quality, came hither to pay their Respects to him; and after the Fair was ended, his Majesty return'd to Dresden, where he had not been long arriv'd, but he married the Count de Saxony (his natural Son by the Countess of Koningsmarck) to Mademoiselle de Loven, who was a young Gentlewoman of a good Family, and one of the richest in Silesia. The Ceremony of this Marriage was perform'd in presence of the whole Court; and for several days the King gave Feasts answerable to his good Fancy and Magnificence. His Majesty is very fond of this Count of Saxony, who is one of the most amiable Gentlemen that I have seen; and besides, he very much resembles the King of Poland, which, to be sure, makes that Monarch the more in love with him.

Dresden[47] was then the Centre of the Pleasures of Germany, and the Plays, &c. exhibited here, made me almost think I was at Paris. I will not trouble you with all the Particulars of the several splendid Entertainments that were made in the Carnival Time, there having been enough written on that Subject already by other Pens. I shall have the Honor, therefore, to say nothing more of it to you, than that every Spectator was more charm'd with the King's affable Behavior, than they were with the Beauty of the Representations, and the Splendor of the Feasts.

I should, no doubt, have had a better Relish for all these Pleasures, if I could have lik'd the Situation of my Affairs. I had all along conceiv'd Hopes of entring into the Service of Poland, and plac'd a very great Dependance on the Promises made by the Count de Flemming; but when I came to Dresden, I found the Face of Affairs quite chang'd. I put him in remembrance of his Promise; but he answer'd me in such a droll manner, as convinc'd me that I ought not to expect any great Matter from him. However, that I might have nothing to reproach my self with, I still continu'd to give him Marks of a very great Attachment to his Person. Yet I met with several Rebuffs, which did not discourage me; and which I had the more Reason to bear with Patience, because I knew that he treated his most trusty Confidents in the same manner. At last, not caring, perhaps, to do any thing of himself, he sent me to M. de Lowendahl the Grand Marshal, and the latter referr'd me to M. de Fitzthum the King's Favorite. I was charm'd with this Gentleman's Politeness and good Manners; and I don't think there ever was a Favorite more obliging, and that took less upon him. Far from amusing me, he convinc'd me of the Impossibility there was of my obtaining any Place at Court, unless the King thro' his special Grace should be inclin'd to prefer me; which could not be done neither, without disobliging several of the Polish Noblemen, who likewise sollicited Places at Court, and seem'd to have a sort of Right to them by virtue of their Birth. I did not yet quite despair of Success; and as this was a Favor that could only be granted by means of the Count de Flemming, I had recourse again to that Minister; but I was never the nearer. To be sure I took a wrong time to speak to him about my Business, when perhaps he had other Affairs of greater Consequence that might ingross his Thoughts. In a word, he rebuff'd me to such a degree, as was sufficient to make me quite renounce my Pretensions. I took leave of the King and Queen, and prepar'd to go for Berlin.

But before I set out, an Adventure happen'd, which, together with my Vexation that I had not succeeded in my Designs, made me hate to stay any longer at Dresden, as much as I was in love with the Place when first I came to it. At Leipsic Fair I had drawn a Bill of 300 Crowns, payable to the Bearer. The Person for whom I drew the Bill had given a Commission to a Merchant at Dresden to receive that Sum. The Bill did not come to the Merchant's Hands, till the very Day of my Departure; and as the Term was expir'd, he sent to my Quarters for the Money. I was not at home that Minute; and the Man hearing that I was to set out the same Day, made use of a Custom introduc'd and constantly observ'd in Saxony; which is, to arrest the Person that fails to answer a Bill of Exchange upon the Day appointed; so that just as I was going into my Chaise I was made a Prisoner. It happen'd to be about ten o'clock at Night. By Misfortune I had lost a great deal at Play this Carnival; and not having so much Money by me, I had recourse to the Count de Flemming; who lent it to me. This was the only time that I can be sure that Nobleman did me any Service. I repaid him soon after my Arrival at Berlin.

Without making a long stay at Berlin, I went and pass'd a few days at an Estate which I have, two Leagues out of that City; but the Uneasiness that haunted me every where, made me resolve to return to France, having still in View the getting some Establishment at Berlin or elsewhere. While I was preparing every thing for my Journey, I had the Misfortune to break my Left Leg by a Fall from my Horse. This Accident, after the various Disgraces and Disappointments I had already suffer'd, Does it not, Madame, give you the Idea of another Orestes, pursu'd by Destiny from one Country to another? I could expect nothing more after this, than to fall into the Hands of some Quack of a Bone-setter, who, after putting me to Torture, would, perhaps, leave me a Cripple for all the rest of my Life. To tell you the plain Truth, I had some Apprehension of it; for a Man of my Kidney could not but be afraid of every thing in such a Case. However, whether it was owing to Hap-hazard, or to the Skill of the Surgeon, after suffering very great Torment, I was perfectly cur'd; and in such a manner, that I never felt any thing of it afterward. The ninth Day after my Fall I went to Berlin. As my Indisposition was such, that I could travel neither in a Chaise nor Coach, I hir'd Porters to carry me; so that my Entry was more than ordinary comic. This new Equipage surpriz'd all that saw it, the Children especially, who not being us'd to see such Carriages, follow'd me from the Out-parts of the City to my Lodgings; and as the Numbers swell'd by the Way, the Train consisted of at least 200 Followers, by that time I came home. I was very sensible, at my Arrival, that I had done wrong to be carried abroad so soon; for a Fever took me, and not long after an Imposthume gather'd, that bred the Distemper which they call in France the King's Evil. A fresh Reason this for my Complaint of the Severity of my Destiny; for in reality I suffer'd such Pains for above twenty Days, as are impossible for me to express.