The Catholic is the only Religion that is allow'd to be exercised at Cologne. Nor are Protestants admitted into the Senate, or any Employment in the City, but go to preach at Mulheim, a little Town in the Country of Berg, which belongs to the Elector-Palatine.

I had not the Honor of seeing the Elector, who by reason of the Misfortunes he had suffer'd in the late Wars, was oblig'd at that time to live in France. His Name was Joseph-Clement of Bavaria. He possess'd the Bishoprics of Hildesheim and Liege, together with the Archbishopric of Cologne. He died the 12th of November 1723, after having caus'd his Nephew the Duke Clement of Bavaria, Bishop of Munster and Paderborn to be chose Co-adjutor of Cologne.

The Archbishops of Cologne are Great Chancellors of the Empire in Italy, but don't officiate as such; for most of the Princes of Italy pretend to be independent of the Empire, or call themselves perpetual Vicars thereof; and in this Quality they perform what the Emperor might do within the Extent of their Jurisdictions. This however extends only to common Cases, for in extraordinary ones they are oblig'd to have recourse to the Imperial Court. Then 'tis the Elector of Mentz alone who officiates in quality of Chancellor of Germany; and 'tis he that has the Custody of the Archives and Titles which relate to Italy.

The Electors of Cologne for a long time contested with those of Mentz the Right of consecrating the Emperors, tho' the latter pretend this Honor belongs to them, as Primates of Germany. But the Differences between those Princes have been regulated; and they have agreed that either of them, in whose Diocese the Emperor happens to be crown'd, should consecrate him; and that if the Coronation should be perform'd in neither of their Dioceses, then they should take it by turns. Nevertheless after this Accommodation the Elector of Cologne consecrated the Emperor Leopold in 1658, at Francfort a City in the Diocese of Mentz; but it was done with the Consent of the Elector of Mentz, and without making it a Precedent for the future.

I have observ'd, that at Cologne most of the public Buildings are either Churches or Convents. The Metropolitan Church would be one of the most magnificent in all Germany, were it finish'd. Among other stately Tombs here is that of the Three Kings who came to worship the Savior of the World, whose Bodies they say were remov'd from Constantinople to Milan, and from thence brought hither. All the People have a very great Veneration for these Reliques.

Except the Churches and the Monasteries one sees no public Structures, nor any House fine enough to raise a Stranger's Admiration; here is still to be seen the House where Death put an end to the Misfortunes of Mary de Medicis, Queen of France, who came to Cologne for Refuge from the Persecution of Cardinal Richelieu. This Cardinal, tho' he was oblig'd to that Princess for his prodigious Wealth, was not content with having forc'd her to quit the Kingdom of France, but abridg'd her even of the Necessaries of Life; insomuch that 'twas a hard matter for her to find a Butcher that would undertake to serve the Table of that unfortunate Princess with Meat. She died the 3d of July, 1643.

After I had amused my self with seeing what was to be seen in the City of Cologne, I long'd so much to see that famous City Paris, that I set out thither very soon. I forgot to tell you that the Out-works of Cologne, especially the Ramparts are very agreeable. There are noble Rows of Elms which serve for Walks, and terminate in a Kay that runs along the Rhine, and would be a very fine one, if it was not disfigur'd by a Half-moon, which has been cut out to cover the Gate of the Rhine, and to secure the Passage of the Flying-Bridge.

When I set out from Cologne I went down the Rhine and the Vahal, as far as Dort, and from thence (without once going ashore) to Antwerp, which City I take to be the most beautiful of all the Netherlands. It makes a part of Austrian Brabant, and is the Capital of the Marquisate of the Holy Empire. 'Tis situate in a great Plain on the Right-side of the Schelde, at a Place where that River separates the Duchy of Brabant from the County of Flanders. It contains a number of Churches built in a very good Taste, and a great many very noble public Edifices. The Church of our Lady, which is the Cathedral, is a Work that has nothing like it except it be in Italy. 'Tis above 500 Feet in length, 240 in breadth, and 340 in height. It contains Sixty-six Chapels, adorn'd with Marble Columns, all different, and with fine Paintings. The Tower which serves for the Steeple is very lofty and perfectly beautiful.

The most magnificent of the Churches, next to the Cathedral, was that of the Jesuits, which was consum'd by Lightning the 18th of July, 1718. The Pavement was of Marble, in Compartiments. There were two low Isles, one above the other, which were supported by fifty-six Marble Pillars. The four Arches were clos'd with thirty-eight great Pictures in gilt Frames, and the Walls in which there were forty Windows were lin'd with Marble. The great Roof was of very fine carv'd Work, charg'd with a small Dome, very lightsome and very well made. As to the High Altar it would require an able Connoisseur to give such a Description of it as the Beauty of the Workmanship requires: For my own part all I can say of it is, that 'twas all over Marble, Jasper, Porphyry, and Gold. The Picture represented the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, and was a complete Piece. Our Lady's Chapel, which was a part of the same Church, was as rich as the rest of the Building, the Sides and the Roof of it being fac'd with Marble, and adorn'd with six Statues of Alabaster. Besides this Chapel there were fifty others, all of the utmost Magnificence. The Great Gate of the Church, and the Jesuits College adjoining to it, were answerable to the Beauty of the Structure. All this stately Building was entirely destroy'd; and what is most to be pitied, the Pictures of the famous Rubens, of which this Church was full, were destroy'd with it; a Loss the more considerable, because 'tis not to be repair'd; for as to the rest, they are preparing to build a Church as magnificent as the former.

There are several other fine Edifices at Antwerp, of which I don't undertake the Description. I shall only mention a Word or two of the Town-House and the Exchange. The former stands in a great Square, encompass'd with fine Houses. Tho' the Building is quite in the Gothic Taste, yet 'tis a noble Monument of the Wealth of those who founded it. The Exchange is worth seeing, on account of the Galleries round the Square, in which the Merchants assemble as they do at Amsterdam, from 12 o'clock till half an hour past 1.

The Citadel or Castle of Antwerp was formerly reckon'd one of the strongest and most regular Citadels in Europe; but the Works which Lewis XIV. caus'd to be made in the Netherlands, and upon all the Frontiers of the Kingdom, have very much sunk the Reputation of the ancient Fortifications. 'Twas in the Square of this Castle, which was built by Order of the Duke of Alva, that he caus'd that famous Statue of Brass to be erected, which would have been an eternal Monument of his Pride and Cruelty, if it had not been pull'd down and broke to pieces by the Populace, as soon as the Duke quitted the Netherlands by Order of his Master K. Philip II. 'Tis said that while he commanded in this Country, he caus'd above 18000 Persons to be executed by the common Hangman.

Next to the Citadel, I cannot help giving you some Account of the Harbor, which is very beautiful and commodious. Here is a very large Square, where, by the Help of a certain Machine, they easily unload all the Goods. Another good Conveniency, and what contributes to render this a very trading City, is, that besides the River there are eight great Canals, by which Ships may enter into the City. Yet notwithstanding all these Conveniencies, the Trade of Antwerp, tho' considerable, is not near so flourishing now, as it was before the Civil Wars, and the new Opinions in Affairs of Religion. 'Tis even astonishing how this City could hold up its Head again after the Calamities it suffer'd, even from its own Sovereign, whose Troops in 1576, burnt above 600 Houses in Antwerp; and while the unfortunate Inhabitants were running, as it were, into the midst of the Flames, to rescue their best Effects, the Spaniards fell upon 'em, and kill'd and drown'd near 10000. This terrible Fire was the total Ruin of Antwerp; the Town-House and several noble Palaces were reduc'd to Ashes; and the immense Riches which they contain'd were carry'd off by Plunderers, who pillag'd for three Days, during which they committed all manner of Outrages. Nevertheless, this unhappy City, which had like to have been buried for ever under its own Ashes, was rais'd to Life again some time after by the Confederates, who remain'd, as it were, its Sovereigns, till 1585, when the Prince of Parma took it from them, after a Siege that lasted near twelve Months, and was one of the most famous Sieges that had ever been known before, as well upon account of the few Troops the Duke of Parma had to carry it on, which in all were but 1200 Men, as for that famous Dyke by which he shut up the Harbor, and for the Bridge which he laid over the Scheld.

Antwerp remain'd under the Dominion of the House of Austria from that Time to the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, when it was oblig'd to receive a French Garison in the Name of Philip V. whom the Elector of Bavaria, Governor of the Netherlands, own'd for King of Spain. But by the Battle of Ramellies, Antwerp and a part of the Netherlands were reduc'd under the Dominion of the Emperor. During the War that was enter'd into for the Spanish Monarchy, a Battle was fought in the Neighbourhood of Antwerp, near the Village of Ekeren, for which both Parties sung Te Deum.

Having set out from Antwerp to pursue my Journey to Paris, I pass'd thro' Mechlin[36], which is a very fine City, and the See of an Archbishop, whose Revenue is very considerable. The Metropolitan Church is dedicated to St. Rambaut. This City is the Seat of a Great Royal Council, which is, as it were, the Parliament of the Country, and was establish'd by Charles Duke of Burgundy in 1473. Mechlin is famous for the Lace made there, which is finer and better than any that is made in the other Towns of the Netherlands.

From Mechlin I went to Brussels[37], the Capital of the Duchy of Brabant. This City stands on the little River Senna, that falls into the Scheld by the Canal of Vilvorde, and divides the lower Town by several Canals that terminate in the said Canal of Vilvorde, which is very convenient for their Trade, whereof this City has a considerable Share. There are several Manufactures at Brussels, of which that of Devos for Tapistry is worth seeing; that skilful Operator having carried his Art to the utmost degree of Perfection that the Curious can desire. The common People of Brussels are more polite than in any other City of the Netherlands; for most of the Nobility of the Country come hither commonly to pass the Winter; and there are few Families of Note that have not a House here.

The Royal Palace is very large, and the Apartments beautiful, tho' very old. This Palace stands high above the City, being situate upon a Hill, from whence there is a noble Prospect, which is diversify'd by the Gardens, and the Park that joins to the Palace, wherein there are several very pleasant Walks, adorn'd with fine Grottos and Fountains.

The Town-house is another very fine Building. It stands in a Square, encompass'd with Grand Houses, built after Brussels was bombarded by the French, under the Command of the Marshal de Villeroy, when this Quarter of the Town in particular suffer'd very great Damage; but it is since become the more agreeable by the magnificent Houses built where the old ones stood.

I left Brussels to go to Mons the Capital City of Hainault, which stands upon a Hill, on the Banks of the little River of Trouil, and is one of the strongest Places in the Low-Countries. Lewis XIV. besieg'd it in Person, and took it in 1691. It was restor'd to Spain by the Peace of Ryswic, but afterwards at the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, it return'd as well as all the Low-Countries under the Dominion of France. But at length after the Battle of Malplaquet, it became subject to the House of Austria. In this City there's a famous Abbey of Nuns, which is a very honorable Retreat for young Women of Quality, who are Orphans, or don't care to be dependant on their Parents. They wear the Habit of Nuns in the Morning, to be present at the Office; but in the Afternoon they dress like Gentlewomen; and they make no Vow.

From Mons I went to Valenciennes[38], which City is a part of the Province of Hainault, and the chief Town of French Flanders. Its beautiful Fortifications display the same Magnificence that was always observ'd in all the Works erected in the Reign of Lewis XIV. That Monarch besieg'd Valenciennes in Person, in the Year 1677; and after having taken it by Storm, caus'd a strong Citadel to be erected in it at the Expence of the Inhabitants. This City had been besieg'd by the Marshals Turenne and La Ferte in the Year 1656; but Don John of Austria, the Governor of the Netherlands, accompanied by the Prince of Condé, who at that time, bore Arms against the King, made them raise the Siege; and in this Expedition the Marshal de la Ferte was taken Prisoner.

The late Elector of Cologne liv'd at Valenciennes when I was there, the Casualties of the War having oblig'd him to quit his own Dominions. I was introduc'd to that Prince by the Prince de Tingri, when his Electoral Highness gave me a favorable Reception, and told me that he knew my Father; but I plainly perceiv'd by what he said, that this Prince would have been as glad to be in his City of Bonn, as in a Town of France.

I stay'd at Valenciennes three Days, after which I set out for Cambray[39]. This City is the Capital of the Cambresis, and one of the strongest Places in Europe. They say its Original is very ancient; for some Authors pretend, that Camber King of the Sicambri was the Founder of it. The Kings of France conquer'd it, and were Masters of it a long while. After the Death of Charles the Bald, it was for some time a Bone of Contention between the Emperor, the King of France, and the Earls of Flanders; but the latter seiz'd it, and the Emperors afterwards declar'd it a free City of the Empire. Francis I. King of France granted it a Neutrality; but the Emperor Charles V. made himself Master of it; and afterwards during the Revolutions of the Netherlands, it fell under the Dominion of the Duke d'Alençon, Brother to Henry III. who restor'd it to the French by a Treaty, which he concluded with John de Montluc, whom King Henry IV. afterwards made Prince of Cambray. Not long after this, the Spaniards took it by surprize, and kept it till 1677, when Lewis XIV. took it, and it has remain'd ever since in the Possession of France, which Crown has considerably augmented its Fortifications.

Cambray has the Title of an Archbishopric, which was erected in 1559, by Pope Paul II. at the Request of Philip II. King of Spain. The Suffragans granted to this Metropolitan were the Bishoprics of Arras, Tournay, St. Omer and Namur, which were anciently Suffragan Sees to the Church of Rheims. The Archbishop takes the Title of Duke of Cambray, Count of the Cambresis, and Prince of the Holy Empire. He that was the Archbishop while I was there, was the illustrious M. de Fenelon, a Prelate as venerable for his Piety, as for the Delicacy of his Pen. The present Archbishop is the natural Son of the late Duke of Orleans the Regent, and was formerly Bishop and Duke of Laon. This Prelate fully answers the vast Hopes that were conceiv'd, from his good Qualities in his Non-age. His Predecessor in this Dignity was the famous Cardinal Dubois, the Minister of France.

I forgot to tell you, that the City of Cambray is also of great Note for the famous League that was concluded between the Pope, the Emperor Maximilian, Lewis XII. King of France, and Ferdinand King of Arragon, against the Republic of Venice.

From Cambray I went to St. Quintin, which City is the Capital of the Vermandois, and is of Note for the famous Battle of St. Quintin, call'd also the Battle of St. Lawrence, because 'twas fought on the 10th of August, in 1557. After the Truce was broke between Henry II. King of France, and Philip II. King of Spain, Philibert-Emanuel Duke of Savoy, who was Governor of the Netherlands, besieg'd the City of St. Quintin, which was destitute of Troops, and moreover in a very bad Condition. The Admiral Coligni got into it with some Forces, which gave Time to the Constable de Montmorency to pass the Somme with the French Army under his Command, and throw some Succours into the Town. This was executed indeed, but with so much Precipitation, that the Men who entered it were scarce five hundred in number. The Constable perceiving the Approach of the Spaniards, and his Troops being moreover incumber'd with their Equipage, endeavored to make his Retreat; but the Duke taking advantage of his Incumbrance, surpriz'd him between the Villages of Essigny and Rizerolles, and charg'd him home before he had Time to put his Men into Order of Battle; and the Constable and his Son were taken Prisoners, with a great many Persons of Distinction. The Number of the Slain was even greater than that of the Prisoners; and among the former was John of Bourbon, Duke of Anguien, a Prince of the Blood Royal, and above 600 Gentlemen. The Spaniards Loss did not exceed 500 Men. Philip II. in acknowledgment for this Victory, made that extraordinary Vow, which he afterwards perform'd, to build the Monastery of St. Lawrence at the Escurial; upon which a certain Ambassador of France, when he was shew'd that stately Edifice, said, That Philip must needs be terribly afraid when he made so considerable a Vow. After the Battle, St. Quintin surrender'd to the Spaniards, who kept it till the Treaty of Chateau-Cambresis, in 1559.

From St. Quintin I went to Compiegne, a City in the Diocese of Soissons, which is situate on the West side of the Oyse and the Aisne. The famous Maid of Orleans ow'd the Loss of her Liberty to this City. For that illustrious Heroine going to the Relief of Compiegne, which the English had resolv'd to besiege, had the Misfortune to fall into their hands, and was carried Prisoner to Roan, where they burnt her for a Witch. 'Twas at the Castle of Compiegne that the Cardinal de Richlieu kept the Queen Mary de Medicis a Prisoner, till that Princess found Means to escape, and to retire to Flanders. I have had the Honor already to tell you, that this unfortunate Queen died at Cologn.

This same Castle was also for some time the Residence of the Elector of Bavaria, after he was ejected out of his Dominions by the victorious Arms of the Emperor. The Court his Electoral Highness kept here was so splendid, that it did not look like the Court of a Refugee Prince.

Near Compiegne there's a very large Forest, which renders the Neighbourhood of this City very pleasant. There are fine Roads cut out in this Forest, which render it very convenient for Hunting.

The only considerable Place from Compiegne to Paris is Senlis; and that purely on account of its being the See of a Bishop: for setting aside its Situation, which is very agreeable, by reason of the Neighbourhood of the beautiful Forest of Chantilly, Senlis is a very trifling Place. Near this City is the Abbey of our Lady of Victory, which Philip Augustus caus'd to be built as an Acknowledgment for the Victory he won in Person at Bouvines, over the Emperor Otho IV. and his Confederates, on Sunday July 27th, 1215; upon which very Day, his Son too won another Battle over the English in Anjou. They say that the two Couriers that were carrying the News of each of the Victories, from the one Army to the other, met at the very Place where now stands the Church of this Abbey.

Betwixt Senlis and Paris there stands the little Town of St. Denys, famous for the magnificent Abbey which gives Name to it. In this Church are the Tombs of the Kings and Princes of France, whose Mausoleums are of rich Workmanship. Here is a Treasure also which contains a great Number of very curious Pieces. The Abbey of St. Denys has also given its Name to the great Plain in which it stands. 'Twas in this Plain that the famous Battle was fought between the Catholics and Hugonots, in the Reign of Charles IX. when the Constable Montmorency, who at the Age of 83, commanded the Catholics, was wounded, but gain'd the Victory over the Heretics.

At my leaving St. Denys, I had at length the pleasure of seeing what I had a long time passionately wish'd for, I mean the famous City of Paris[40], where I arriv'd about the beginning of the Year 1712. I make no scruple to call it the chief City of the World, as it is the Capital of the chief Kingdom in Christendom. The Extent of its Circumference, the Beauty of its Buildings, the Multitude of its Inhabitants, the continual Arrival and the Residence of Foreigners there, the Variety and Plenty of Commodities of all sorts, render it the finest City in the World; and on those Accounts 'tis justly reckon'd as the Ornament, the Soul and the Strength of the French Empire. I was not willing however to make any stay here at first, because of my Impatience to see the famous Castle of Versailles, so much talk'd of at all Foreign Courts.

I had entertain'd so grand an Idea of this Palace, and was so fully persuaded of its being all over Gold and Azure, that at the first Sight the Beauty of it did not strike me. The Entrance to Versailles, as one comes from Paris, does not set it off at all, tho' the Avenue that leads to it is one of the most magnificent; but when one comes up to the Castle, and turns about towards this Grand Avenue, the two sumptuous Stables on the sides of it form a Prospect, which gives a sublime Idea of the Master of those stately Piles of Building. The Front of the Castle, which looks towards the Gardens is the finest; and on that Side is the superb Gallery, which is the Admiration of all Foreigners. What most surpriz'd me at Versailles is the Inside of the Castle, which if one examines it well, looks like several Castles join'd together. The Royal Family, which was still pretty numerous, was lodg'd there very much at their Ease, each having their Guard-Chamber, an Anti-Chamber, a Presence-Chamber, a Bed-Chamber, and Great Closet and Wardrobes. The chief Officers and Ladies attending the Princesses were also commodiously lodg'd. The greatest part of the Lords of the Court had Lodgings too here, which were indeed pretty much straiten'd for want of room, but very convenient. In short, I was assur'd, that when Lewis XIV. was at Versailles, about 20,000 Persons lay every Night in the Body of this Castle, and the Buildings in the Verge of it, the Apartments and other Lodgings being so well laid out, that all this great Multitude did not croud one another.

The finest Pieces in the Inside of the Castle are the Gallery and the Saloons that join to it. The Walls are lin'd with Marble. Every Place shines with the Works of the greatest Masters in Gold and Brass, and with noble Pier-Glasses. I have heard say, that before the War for the Spanish Succession, all the Tables, Chandeliers and Stands, which are now of Marble and gilt Frames, were of Massy Silver; but the King converted them into Money to help defray the vast Expences of the Wars he was then engaged in. The Cieling of the Gallery represents in several Pictures the principal Actions of Lewis the XIVth's Life; and is also adorn'd with Cartridges and Gildings, which are remarkable both for their Richness and their Elegance.

The Chapel is perfectly answerable to the Magnificence of the Inside of the Castle. The Critics indeed think 'tis too lofty for its Bigness; and without pretending to much Skill in Architecture, of which what I now say is perhaps a Proof, I should readily subscribe to their Opinion. Indeed a Man ought to be plac'd in the Pew from whence the King hears Mass, to have a just View of the fine Paintings with which the Cieling is enrich'd; and than which there's nothing to be seen that is finer or better fancy'd. The principal Picture represents God the Father in all his Glory, as fully as Human Weakness can conceive it. This is a piece of Painting I am never weary of admiring; and I found some new Pleasure every time I look'd on it. The Cieling is supported by noble Pillars of a white Stone, as beautiful as Marble, which form a Gallery that runs round the Chapel, of an equal height all along with the King's Pew, and the Ballisters are of yellow Copper and Marble. When one looks down from the Pew, the Chapel seems too low, and the Great Altar not high enough. Opposite to the King's Pew, and exactly over the High Altar, there's an Organ-Loft of a very good Contrivance, where the King's Music sits. 'Tis a very good Band; and those who are nice Judges always admire the first Touch they give to their Instruments, the Moment that the King enters the Chapel to hear Mass.

I own to you, Madame, that I thought it one of the finest Sights in the World, to see Lewis XIV. enter the Chapel in all his Grandeur, attended by the Cardinals and the Lords of his Court. The Life-Guards and the Hundred Swiss took up the Gallery and the Bottom of the Chapel, and the Drums beat, and the Swiss Fifes play'd till his Majesty was seated. On Communion or Sermon Days the King went down into the Chapel, and then the Pavement, which is of very fine Marble, was cover'd all over with noble Tapestry. When the King receiv'd the Sacrament, a Praying-Desk was set for him over-against the High Altar, and then the Hundred Swissers were rang'd in two Rows, and the Courtiers encompass'd his Majesty. During the Sermon the King's Chair of State was plac'd over-against the Pulpit, and the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family and Blood were seated in Folding Chairs, on both sides of the King in the same Line. But the Princes and Princesses very seldom assisted at the King's Mass; and when they did, they kneel'd leaning on the same Ballustrade that the King did, but quite off of his Carpet.

The Gardens of Versailles may be rank'd among the modern Wonders; and I don't believe that the so much boasted Gardens of the superb Semiramis were finer. For really, considering the Statues, Vases and Water-works of Marble and Brass, one wou'd think Pains had been taken to ransac Greece and Rome it self, both ancient and modern, for its most wonderful Productions on purpose to bring them to this charming Place. These Gardens were plann'd by the famous Le Nautre. At the end of the Great Walk which fronts the Castle there's a very spacious Canal. It forms a Cross to a certain Distance, one side of which leads to the Menagerie, and the other to Trianon. The Menagerie is a very little House with only a few Rooms, from whence the King may see the rarest Animals of all sorts, which are kept there. As for Trianon and its Gardens, one would not think at the first View that they were made by Man. The Whole is perfectly inchanting, and a Person ever so little captivated with the strange Tales of the Fairies, wou'd not scruple to think this magnificent Structure the Master-piece of those ingenious Work-women. The whole Building, to outward Appearance, seems very small; but when one examines the Inside of it, the Apartments are both spacious and commodious. The Outside of this Palace is partly hid by fine Groves; what appears of it is fac'd with white Marble, adorn'd with an Order of Pilasters of red Marble, with Windows in form of Arches between them. Lewis XIV. often retir'd to this charming Solitude, to be shelter'd from the Importunities of the Courtiers; and no body was admitted to him but such Persons as his Majesty appointed.

A little League from Versailles there's Marly, another Royal Palace; and which of all the Palaces has the most pleasant Gardens, tho' those of Versailles are by much more sumptuous. The Great Cascade, which is all of Marble of various Colors, makes a stately Appearance. When one is at the Top of this Cascade, and looks toward the Palace, one sees all the Gardens, and a Plain thro' which the River Seine winds itself, having on one side the Castle of St. Germain en Laye; and on the other the Castle de Maisons, belonging to the President of that Name, which forms an admirable Point of View. Lewis XIV. who was fond of Marly, condescended to divest himself there of part of his Grandeur, and did a great many Ladies of Quality the Honor to make them sit down with him at Table. Thus, Madame, have I given you a slight Sketch of the famous Palace of Versailles, and its Neighbourhood. I did not think it so proper to give you an exact Detail of the Beauties one discovers at every Step in this magnificent Palace. You have undoubtedly seen a good Description of them already, in the Books printed upon that Subject. I shall now add a Word or two of the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family.

I shall not presume to say any thing of the August Head of this illustrious Family, since it wou'd require a more delicate Pen than mine to treat so sublime a Subject with suitable Dignity. All that I shall do my self the Honor to Say to you of Lewis XIV. is, that if a good Mien was to be the Merit for the Crown of France, this Great Prince might have put in his Claim for it upon that account, as justly as on the account of his Birth. He was already advanc'd in years in 1712, when I had the Honor to see him; and yet he had a nobler Air than any Man in his Kingdom.

The Duke of Burgundy, who became Dauphin of France, by the Death of his Father, Lewis XIVth's Son, who was the year before carried off in a very few days by the Small-Pox at his Palace of Meudon, was the first Prince in the Kingdom next to the King. His Great Qualities prognosticated that if he liv'd, his Reign wou'd be very happy: Being Devout, without neglecting any of the Duties of a Prince, he had a way of reconciling the Retirement of a Cloyster to the Bustle of a Court; and tho' he had the Great Affair of his Salvation always at heart, yet he thought, and justly too, that his Practice of Piety ought not to exclude his Application to the Affairs of State. He married a Princess, whose great Qualities wou'd have made the French happy, if an untimely Death had not snatch'd her away in the Flower of her Age. Her Name was Mary Adelaide of Savoy. I can assure you, Madame, that I never saw one that had a more Noble and Majestic Presence than this Princess. And several Ladies that had the Honor of being with her in private assur'd me, that none could be more sprightly and gay. Her Youth made her fond of Pleasures; but yet she never was forgetful of her Duties. She had an extraordinary Respect and Regard for the King. She went every Evening to Madame de Maintenon's Apartment when the King was there, and after the Council was over, she put every thing in practice that her gay Humor cou'd imagine to divert him. The Princess had also a particular Esteem for the Dauphin her Husband, and as this Prince never fail'd of being at Mass, nor at Vespers, or the Evening Prayers, the Dauphiness always went with him, and very readily made her Pleasures give place to her Duties.

I had not been long at the Court of France when this illustrious Couple died within a few days of one another. The first who paid that Tribute to Nature was the Dauphiness. This Princess fell sick at Versailles, soon after which the Purples discover'd themselves; and at length her Distemper appearing desperate, she was admonish'd to prepare for Death: but this was Advice she could not find in her heart to comply with, it being a hard matter to renounce a voluptuous Life; especially when supported with the Hopes of being e'er long possess'd of one of the first Crowns in the World. This Princess died, as it were, in the Arms of the Duchess of Orleans, who by her Desire never left her during all the time of her Illness.

The King, who was very much afflicted for her Death, set out immediately for Marly, whither the Dauphin follow'd him. This Prince knowing the Value of the Jewel he had lost, so indulg'd his Grief that he sicken'd almost as soon as he arriv'd at Marly, of the same Distemper that had just depriv'd him of his Consort. He received the Sentence of his Death with a Resolution truly Christian; and in the Height of his Distemper was often heard to put up this Petition, My God! save the King and Government. The Night he died he had a very great Desire to hear Mass; and whatever they could say to convince him that the Rules of the Church did not allow it to be celebrated at that Hour, yet he wou'd not take a Denial; so that as soon as the Midnight Bell rung, Mass was said in his Chamber, at an Altar that was put up at his Bed's feet. After the Elevation of the Host, the Dauphin was very much compos'd, and continu'd praying to God till his Strength failing him every Minute more and more, he gave up the Ghost. This happen'd on the 18th of February 1712, six Days after the Death of the Dauphiness.

The King had need of all his Stock of Courage to support so many Shocks one after another. The Royal Family was in the utmost Consternation. Those that were about the King wou'd fain have persuaded him to retire elsewhere a little while for Change of Air; but he answered undauntedly, That he was every where in the Hands of God; and that therefore he would continue where he was. This great Prince had soon after, another Trial of his Patience, by the News he receiv'd of the Death of the Duke of Bretagne, who upon the Decease of his Father had been declar'd the Dauphin. This young Prince died at Versailles the 8th of March 1712, when he was but five Years old. There never was a more sorrowful Scene than to see the Funeral Pomp of this Year, which serv'd at the same time for the Father, Mother and Son.

The only one that remain'd of this August Stock was the Duke of Anjou now Lewis XV. This Prince too, who was but a Child, was such a poor Weakling all along, that no body thought he would live; and he was at this time in such a bad way, that the very Physicians despair'd of his Recovery. Nevertheless he insensibly gathered Strength, and now the French see their young Monarch in a more vigorous State of Health than they could have hoped for in his Childhood: For this I believe they are oblig'd to the great Care which was taken of this young Prince by the Duchess of Ventadour, who was charg'd with his Education, in which Post she acquitted herself with all the Zeal that a Person could do, who knew the Value of that precious Deposit which was committed to her trust.

The next to the Throne after this young Prince was the Duke of Berry, Brother to the Duke of Burgundy. He was of a fair Complexion, and for his Age a little too corpulent. He spent his time chiefly in Hunting, and when the Chace was over he us'd to go to his Duchess's Apartments to game; for this Princess, after the Death of the Duchess of Burgundy, kept an Assembly.

The last Prince of the Royal Family was the Duke of Orleans, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; of whom I shall have occasion to say more, when at the death of Lewis le Grand he took on him the Government of the Kingdom during the present Monarch's Minority.

The first People at Court next to the Princes of the Royal Family, were the Princes of the Blood. The chief was the Duke of Chartres, now Duke of Orleans, by the Death of his Father who was the Regent of France during the Minority of Lewis XV.

The Duke of Bourbon, and the Counts de Charolois and Clermont compos'd the Condé Branch. The first of these Princes whom they call only The Duke, was a tall portly Man, very free and easy, but had the misfortune to lose one Eye when he was a hunting by some small Shot that scatter'd from the Duke of Berry's Fowling-piece, as he let fly at some Game.

The other two Princes were well-shap'd and very fair, but being as yet very young, they were as well as the Duke of Chartres in the hands of their Governors.

The Prince of Conti, Son of him who was formerly decked King of Poland, was the only Prince of the second Branch of Bourbon.

These, Madame, were the Princes that then composed the Court of France. I shall now do myself the Honor to give you some account of the Princesses according to their Rank, distinguishing them as I have done the Princes, by the Titles of Princesses of the Royal Family, and Princesses of the Blood.

The first Princess of the Royal Family was the Dauphiness, whom I have had the Honor to mention to you.

Next to the Dauphiness, the Duchess of Berry was first in Rank. This Princess was the Daughter of the Duke of Orleans, afterwards the Regent. She resembled her Father very much for her Wit, and had she not been a little too bulky she would have been one of the most amiable Princesses of the whole Court. I shall have occasion to let you into this Princess's Character presently.

Madame, the second Wife of Philip of Orleans, Brother to Lewis XIV. was the third Princess at Court, during the Life of the Dauphiness. Her Name was Elizabeth-Charlotte of Bavaria; being the Daughter of the Elector Charles-Lewis by Charlotte of Hesse, and the last of the illustrious Branch of the Palatine Family. The Court I constantly pay'd to this Princess, to whom I was moreover well recommended by the Electoress of Hanover Mother to the King of England, enables me to tell you some Particulars which will give you a just Notion of her.

This Princess was very affable, yet not very forward to grant her Protection. She talk'd a great deal, and talk'd well. She lov'd especially to speak in her Mother-Tongue, which she had not forgot tho' she had been fifty Years in France, for which reason she was overjoy'd to see her Countrymen, and to correspond with them by Letters. She was very punctual in writing to the Electoress of Hanover, and to several other Personages in Germany; and the Letters she commonly wrote were not little Billets, but took up twenty or thirty Sheets of Paper. Of these I had a sight of several that would have been worth publishing, and have not seen any thing better writ in the German Tongue. In short, this Princess did nothing but write from Morning till Night. Immediately after she rose, which was always about ten o'clock, she sate down at her Toilet. From thence she went into her Closet, where after having spent some time in Prayer, she took Pen and Ink and wrote till she went to Mass. After this was ended, she wrote again till Dinner-time, which did not last long, and then she fell to writing again till ten o'clock at Night. About nine o'clock when she received Company in her Closet she was found sitting at a great Table spread with Papers, and there was an Ombre Table just by it, at which the Marshal de Cleremhault's Lady and the other Ladies of the Princess's Houshold used to play. Every now and then the Princess cast an Eye upon the Game, and would give her Advice and write at the same time. At other times she convers'd with those who paid their Court to her. I once saw this Princess napping, and the Moment after start out of her Sleep and write on. This, Madame, was the common Life of the Princess when she was at Versailles. Sometimes however she went out a hunting with the King, dress'd like an Amazon, and sometimes to the Opera. For this Princess was very fond of Plays, so that after the Death of Lewis XIV. when the Court came to settle at Paris she often made the French and Italian Comedians perform at the Theatre of the Royal Palace.

As to Rank, never did any Princess support it better than this. As she was punctual to the last degree in requiring the Honors due to her, so she return'd to every one the Honors that belong'd to them. I heard her once talk very sharply upon this head to the Duchess of Berry; and indeed none but she durst have talk'd to that Princess in such a Stile. It happen'd in Lewis XVth's Minority that the Duchess of Berry came to her one Evening in a Scarf. After she had been there about half an Hour she ask'd Madame de Mouchy what o'clock it was; whereupon the Princess ask'd the Duchess of Berry what she said to Madame de Mouchy. The Duchess made her Answer, that she was going to the Tuilleries, and therefore she ask'd what time of Night it was. How! to the Tuilleries, said Madame; What are you going to take an Airing by the Light of Flambeaus? For, indeed, it was just Night. No, Madame, said the Duchess of Berry, I am going to the King. To the King! reply'd Madame; Pray excuse me for expressing my Surprize! What, go to the King, Madame, in that Dress! I thought you knew your Duty to him better: I beseech you, Madame, do no such thing. Render to the King the Respect that you owe him, and then you will have a Right to challenge what is your due from every body else.

The Duchess of Berry, who was not pleas'd at this Reprimand, was going to reply, but Madame interrupted her, and said, No, Madame, nothing can excuse you: Surely you may think fit to dress your self as seldom as you go to the King, since I that am your Grandmother dress my self every day. Speak the Truth, and say 'tis meer Laziness that hinders you from putting on your Clothes, which is a Fault that becomes neither your Age nor your Rank. A Princess ought to be dress'd like a Princess, and a Chambermaid like a Chambermaid. The Duchess of Berry being not us'd to such Lectures, was extremely mortify'd at being so check'd, and upon this occasion she did what she us'd to do when any thing was ever said that offended her, and when Decency did not permit her to make a haughty Reply; that is, she arose, made a low Curt'sy, and went away. Madame fell to writing again, but talk'd still of the same Subject, and not without some Warmth. She said, looking about to all the Company, Was I in the wrong, pray, to talk as I did to the Duchess of Berry? What say you to it? You will easily suppose, Madame, that nobody open'd their Lips, but while she was running on still in the same strain, to the great Confusion of every Soul in her Closet, the Princess of Conti came in, which gave a Turn to the Conversation.

After Lewis XIVth's Death, Madame follow'd the Court to Paris, where she resided in the Winter, but commonly spent the fine Season at St. Cloud. From thence she came very often to the King's Apartment, us'd to be at the Theatre, and return in the Evening to St. Cloud. She had then with her Mademoiselle, now the Abbess of Chelles, and Mademoiselle de Valois, now the Princess of Modena. The other Princesses, her Grandaughters, liv'd at Paris with the Duchess of Orleans their Mother. This Princess, tho' the Mother of the Duchess of Berry, had not the Precedency of her, and when she was at her Daughter's House she had only a Folding-Chair allowed her, whereas the Duchess sate in an Arm-Chair. The Duchess of Orleans was the last of the Royal Family.

The first of the Princesses of the Blood was the Princess-Dowager of Condé, Anne of Bavaria Countess-Palatine, Daughter of Edward Prince-Palatine of the Rhine. She was call'd only, Madame the Princess. She commonly resided at Paris, where she liv'd a very exemplary Life for her Piety and great Charity. She died the 23d of February, 1723, at seventy-five Years of Age.

This Princess was Mother to the Duke of Bourbon (that died in 1710) whose Wife Louisa-Francese of Bourbon, the legitimated Daughter of Lewis XIV. was, I can assure you, Madame, one of the most beautiful Princesses of the Court; and tho' already the Mother of eight Children, it was much more natural to take her for their Sister. With so much Beauty, she had also Charms still more preferable; and all these external Qualities were supported by a majestic Air, and a Deportment which gain'd this illustrious Princess Respect at the same time that her affable and obliging Behavior procured her Love. She had moreover a lively sparkling Wit, always sure to divert, whether in giving Merit its due Praise, or whether by her delicate Raillery, she expos'd the Ridicule of that Behavior, which notwithstanding the good Taste of the Age had perhaps made the Fortune of some fawning Courtier.

The next in Rank to that Princess was the first Dowager-Princess of Conti, the legitimated Daughter of Lewis XIV. The Air, Shape and Beauty of this Princess, have made such a noise in the World, that I believe, Madame, you are not ignorant that she was reckon'd the tip-top Beauty of the Kingdom; and really tho' she was pretty much advanc'd in Years, she had still that Air of Majesty and Modesty which partakes of the Grandeur of her Father, and of the exemplary Piety of her Mother in her latter Years. After the Death of Lewis XIVth's Son the Dauphin, this Princess was very much retir'd, so that I never saw her any where but at Madame's Apartments; and since the Death of the King she scarce appears any where at all.

The Princess of Conti, the second Dowager is by Birth Princess of Condé. She is Mother of the Prince of Conti, of Mademoiselle de Conti, who died Duchess of Bourbon, and of Mademoiselle de la Roche-sur-Yon. It may be said that this Branch of Bourbon have had their share of Sense and Virtue.

The Duchess of Maine and the late Duchess of Vendôme were Sisters of the second Dowager-Princess of Conti, and the Daughters of Henry Julius Prince of Condé, and of the Princess-Palatine, whom I have already had the Honor to mention to you.

The Duchess of Maine is a Princess of real Merit, and a great Wit. She degenerates in no respect from the illustrious Blood of Condé. She liv'd with more Splendor than any Princess of France. She commonly resided at Seaux, a magnificent Castle not far from Paris, and one of the finest that I have seen, not only for its commodious Apartments which are also richly furnish'd, but for the extent of the Park in which there's such an agreeable Variety of Groves, and of Marble and Brazen Statues, as presents the curious Spectator always with something new. It may be said, that in her time the Pleasures had fix'd their Residence in this charming Place. There was a Resort from all parts to this Princess, and People were glad to leave both the Court and City, being sure of finding something at Seaux better contriv'd than the common Representations on the Stage; and indeed they were never disappointed, the Duchess of Maine having an exquisite Taste in such things; for she lov'd the fine Sciences, and was a better Judge than any body, of what they call Composures. This illustrious Princess took a delight in bespeaking Plays, and sometimes did not think it beneath her to act a part in them her self. The famous Baron and Beauval had often the Honor of performing with her. Those who have frequented the French Theatre know full well that such a choice was a very evident Proof of that Princess's Taste for good Declamation. After the Comedy there was generally a Party for Play, and then a magnificent Supper, after which there was sometimes a Fire-Work, but most commonly there was a Ball, at which there was always a vast Number of Masks; yet the whole was so well ordered, that there was plenty of Refreshments for every body.

These, Madame, were the Princes and Princesses who form'd the Court of France when I came thither, and I thought 'twas proper to give you a Character of them before I mention'd the Conduct I observ'd at my Arrival there.

I first got my self introduc'd to Madame, to whom I was moreover recommended by the Electress of Hanover, the King of England's Mother. This Princess, who always retain'd a particular Regard for the Germans, receiv'd me with even more kindness than she commonly shew'd to those of that Nation. She did me the Honor to introduce me to the King herself, one Night after his Majesty had supp'd. This Prince was in his Bed-Chamber, with all the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family. The King remember'd my Name, and did me the Honor to ask me, whether I was not the Son of one Pollnitz, who had been at his Court from the Elector of Brandenbourg? And upon my telling him that I was his Grandson, he said to me, Indeed, you seem to me to be too young to be taken for his Son. His Majesty then ask'd me if I intended to make any stay in France. I answer'd, that I was so overjoy'd to find myself at the Feet of the greatest of Kings, that I would do my self the Honor to pay my Duty to him as long as possible. The King seem'd to like my Answer, and turning towards Madame, he said to her, speaking of me, He talks French well. He afterwards did me the Honor of a Salute, and told me as he withdrew that he should take a pleasure in doing me Service.

Next day Madame introduc'd me to the Duke of Burgundy the Dauphin, and to the Dauphiness, which illustrious Couple died some time after, as I have had the Honor to tell you. Madame also caus'd me to be introduc'd to the Duke and Duchess of Berry, but neither of 'em said one word to me. I was very well receiv'd by the Duke and Duchess of Orleans. It was not easy to see this Prince without loving him; for his Affability supported by a most sparkling Wit, and the most elegant Accomplishments, endear'd him to all that had the Honor of Access to him. This Prince constantly paid his Attendance at Court, and had the greatest Respect for Madame. He never miss'd a Day of waiting upon this Princess. He went to her Apartments every Night at half an Hour past eight, and play'd at Chess there till the King's Supper-time; but this Prince only sate down at the Game, and as he went in and out he always kiss'd her Hand.

The Court of France, tho' very splendid by reason of the number of Princes and Princesses of which it consists, was nevertheless not so gay as I expected. The Life at Versailles was the most uniform in the World: The King's Hours were settled, and he that had seen but one Day there had seen a Year. The King rose at nine or ten o'clock. The Princes and all the Courtiers attended his Levee, and after he was dress'd he kneel'd down to Prayers on a Cushion of Black Velvet, with his Chaplains and the Bishops that were at his Levee, kneeling also round him. When Prayers were ended, the King went into his Closet, where sometimes the Ministers came to speak to him about Business, and in the mean while the Courtiers walk'd in the great Gallery, thro' which the King walk'd to hear Mass, and there all the Courtiers waited to be seen by his Majesty as he pass'd. I never saw a Nation more fond of paying their Attendance at Court than the French; for I have even seen many Courtiers, who thinking the Prince had not observ'd them, stept forwards into another Room, and then another, till by chance his Majesty happen'd to cast his Eyes upon them.

After Mass was over the King return'd to his Closet; sometimes he held a Council and afterwards din'd alone, at which time one might also observe how the Courtiers strove to be seen by him. The King eat with a good Appetite, nay I thought he eat voraciously. His Dinner lasted three Quarters of an Hour, and upon certain Days there was Music. After Dinner, the King went down by the Back-stairs, and took Coach to go a hunting in the Park of Versailles, which was full of small Game. He return'd about the Dusk of the Evening, and went to Madame de Maintenon's Apartment, where there were only a few of the old Courtiers, and generally speaking, none but Ladies; as, Madame de Caylus, a Cousin of Madame de Maintenon, and Madame de Dangeau, who play'd at Cards with the King when the Ministers were not there; for then, instead of Gaming, Business was the Subject, and there every thing was commonly settled. At ten o'clock at Night, when word was brought to the King that Supper was serv'd up, his Majesty went to the Table, where the Princes and Princesses always accompanied him. The Duchesses were plac'd behind the Folding-Chairs of the Princes, on both sides of the Table; and the other Ladies of Quality stood on the Right hand of the King's Arm-chair. His Majesty, after making a Bow to the Princes and Princesses and all the Ladies, sate down in his Chair, and then the Princes and Princesses took their Seats, as did also the Duchesses. The other Ladies of Quality pass'd into a Salon just by, where they were at liberty to sit down. The Supper lasted no longer than the Dinner: The King talk'd there but little, and sometimes he address'd himself to Madame, or to the Duchess of Orleans; but I never heard him speak to the Dukes of Berry and Orleans, nor even to the Duchess of Berry.

After Supper was over, the King, preceded by the Princes, went into his Bed-Chamber, where he found such of the Ladies as were not Duchesses, to whom he put off his Hat, and then sate down by the Ballustrade that was before his Bed, where he stay'd till the Princesses and Duchesses were enter'd into the Room. I observ'd that the old Court-Ladies made a profound Curt'sy to the King's Bed when they enter'd his Chamber, which the young Ladies did not; for being perhaps more puff'd up with their Youth and their Charms, they did not think themselves oblig'd to pay so much Respect. When the Duchesses who had attended at Supper enter'd to the King's Bed-Chamber, the King made an Obeisance to them, as he did to the other Ladies; and then the King preceded by the Princes, and followed by the Princesses who had supp'd with him, went into his Closet, to which the Princes and Princesses of the Blood also repair'd. His Majesty convers'd with 'em for a while, during which the Duchesses and the other Ladies withdrew. At length the King dismiss'd the Princes and Princesses, and went to Bed. Then the Courtiers separated, and the Generality retir'd. Some went to the Duke of Berry's Couchée, and others to the Duke of Orleans's. Those who paid their Court to this Prince were well receiv'd by him. For my own part I went thither as often as I could, not so much to pay my Court to Madame, as from a natural liking I had to this Prince.

Thus, Madame, did the King pass his Life. The Pleasures of the Courtiers were at best but dull, Gaming being almost their whole Amusement. The Assembly was commonly held at the House of the Prince d'Armagnac of Lorrain, Master of the Horse, where there was Play in the Afternoon. Foreigners were perfectly welcome to this Prince, as they were also to the Cardinal of Roban. The latter liv'd very magnificently, and at the Houses of these two Noblemen you were sure to see the Prime of the Nobility of France.

When the Court was at Fontainbleau[41], 'twas much more gay than it was when at Versailles, where it may be said, that it shone in its full Lustre. Nevertheless tho' Fontainbleau is not near so magnificent, it has the Air of a Castle, which Versailles has not. Moreover, Art and Nature seem to have acted in concert towards forming the magnificent Buildings which several Monarchs have caus'd to be erected at Fontainbleau: Whereas at Versailles Nature seems to have had nothing to do, every thing being the Work of Art, and too much adorned. Perhaps I may be the only one of this Opinion, but I always thought that the Magnificence at Versailles was too general.

I was at Fontainbleau some time after the Conclusion of the Suspension of Arms with the English. The News of the Peace on the point of being concluded, and the Victory at Denain, seem'd to have restor'd to the Court such an Air of Gayety as had not been known there for many years. The Elector of Bavaria was there at that time, and there was such Gaming at the Duchess of Berry's and the Duke of Antin's, as if they had no Sense at all of the public Calamities. The Party was of twelve Cutters at Lansquenet, who began with setting four Lewid'ors, and at last stak'd Rouleaus of a hundred Lewid'ors on a Card. I won seven hundred Lewid'ors there one Night, in less than an Hour's time, and the Duchess de la Ferte trick'd me out of no less than a hundred, besides fourscore that she borrow'd of me, and never paid me again. Perhaps she thought 'twas the best way to make herself amends for the Trouble she was pleas'd to take upon her, of setting my Money upon the Table, there being such a Croud of Ladies round it that I could not get near it.

While the Court was at Fontainbleau, who should come thither but Mr. St. John, since made Lord Bolingbroke, to settle the Plan of the Peace that was afterwards concluded at Utrecht. He could not have been better receiv'd than he was there if he had been a Sovereign Prince, for the King himself had an extraordinary Regard for him. I was one day to see his Majesty dine, when there was to be Music, but as soon as it struck up the King stopt it, by calling out aloud, I am informed that M. de St. John dines with the Duke of Antin. Let my Music wait on him there, and let him know that I send it to him, and that I wish it may give him Pleasure. You will easily imagine, Madame, that all the Courtiers, in imitation of the Monarch, strove who should be most complaisant to the English Minister, who for his part justly merited the Regard that was paid to him.

The Court stay'd at Fontainbleau some time after the Arrival of this Minister, and all the while there was nothing but Merriment and a continual Succession of Pleasures. The Hunting-Matches were of the utmost Magnificence. The Ladies were there either on horseback or in Chaises in the Retinue of the Duchess of Berry and Madame. So many fine Women mounted on horseback all richly dressed, the King in a Chaise attended by the whole Court on horseback, and the sumptuous Hunting-Equipages to be seen all at once in the pleasant Forest of Fontainbleau, form'd one of the finest Sights that could be. On the Days when there was no Hunting, the King took the Air in an open Calash round the great Canal, accompany'd by Ladies whose Habits were the finest and of the most beautiful Fancy that could be imagin'd. When the Court return'd from their Airing there was a Comedy or else a Drawing-Room at the Duchess of Berry's, where they play'd at Lansquenet.

At those times too when there was no Hunting there were Assemblies at M. le Grand's, and several others of Quality. I observ'd that most of the Nobility were more inclinable to be complaisant at Fontainbleau, than at Versailles: If a Man was ever so little known for a Person of Quality, they freely furnish'd him with the King's Horses for Hunting, which is scarce ever practis'd but in France and Lorrain. Indeed I have seen the same thing done at the Court of Bavaria, but 'twas very seldom.

After I had follow'd the Court for some time to Versailles and Fontainbleau, I went back again to the famous City of Paris. I no sooner arriv'd there but I had a considerable Fit of Sickness, which brought me almost to the Brink of the Grave. I committed myself to the care of the famous Dutch Physician Helvetius. This skilful Doctor set me upon my Legs in a very little time; and when I was able to go abroad, he advis'd me to take a Walk in the Garden of Luxembourg, which they cry'd up for the best Air in all Paris. I did not fail to pursue the Doctor's Direction, and observ'd indeed, that the Air I breath'd in that Garden was very good for me: But in a little time it had like to have prov'd most pernicious to me. For one Morning as I was walking there, I saw two Ladies coming a good way off, in a Deshabillé, who had both a grand Air, and a most noble Carriage. They were footing it on the very Terrass where I was walking; so that I sat down on a Bench to see them pass by. I confess to you, that I thought their Persons as lovely as their Undress was genteel and noble. As they sail'd by me, one of 'em happen'd to drop her Handkerchief, which I that instant snatch'd up and presented to her. She receiv'd it in a very polite manner, and I pass'd her a Compliment, to which she made a witty Reply. By degrees we entered into a Conversation, which tho' it held only a Quarter of an Hour, cost me very dear; for I fell in Love, and more deeply in Love than I can express to you. The Ladies asked my Name. You will imagine I did not put them to the trouble of asking it twice; the rather, because I hop'd that in requital they would tell me their Names: But notwithstanding all my Intreaty they wou'd not satisfy me. She that I was most enamour'd with at the first View, bid me in very good High-Dutch not to give my self any Uneasiness to know who they were; as she was going away, she said that I should not fail to see them again if I made any stay at Paris. I gave her my Hand and led her to her Coach, which seem'd to be well lin'd. I also saw a Couple of lusty Lackeys who were well clad. All this put together, confirm'd me in the Notion I had conceiv'd, that they were Ladies of Quality; or, at least, in good Keeping. I wou'd have given all the World to be inform'd exactly who and what they were; but 'twas absolutely impossible for me to make any Discovery. The Lackey that I had with me being a German, and even more a Stranger here than my self, was upon that account an improper Person, for the Management which is necessary for such Discoveries. I remain'd therefore mortally uneasy, and it had like to have made me as light-headed as I was in the Illness from which I was but newly recover'd. I did not fail to go to Luxembourg Gardens every day, and staid there from nine o'clock in the Morning till Night, excepting only the little time it took me to go home to Dinner. All these Jaunts forwards and backwards lasted about a Fortnight, at the end of which I found my self just as forward as I was the first Day. At last, when I had given over all Thoughts of being so happy as to find this Fair-one out, I was surpris'd to see her at a Place where I never dreamt of finding her. One day as I waited upon the Ladies de V—— and D—— to the Play-house where Cid was to be acted, and Quinaut the Elder began with playing Roderigo; judge, Madame, how great was my Surprize when I saw that the Heroine of my Passion was also the Heroine of this Play, in which she perform'd the Part of Clymene. In all my Life I was never so confounded, and began to question whether I ought to indulge a Passion of that nature. I perceiv'd some Reluctance in my Mind against attaching my self to a Person whose Profession is rarely susceptible of those nice Sentiments, which Persons of Honor always demand in Love. But the Course I took was really the same that a Boy of nineteen years of Age wou'd have done; that is to say, I acted the very contrary to what I ought to have done. I foolishly indulg'd my I Passion, so that I had scarce Patience to stay for the Interval between the Play and the Entertainment, before I went behind the Scenes, where I found my Fair-one, with several Gentlemen of my Acquaintance about her, whom I took at first for so many Rivals; and as if it was not Punishment enough to be in love, I must needs be jealous too. I spoke to D——, (which was the Name of this dissembling Creature) but I perceiv'd that what I said put her into a Flutter; and I observ'd that she was over and above complaisant to a Gentleman of the Long Robe who stood near her. I was not mistaken in my Guess; 'twas B——, one of the Counsellors of Parliament, who bore this Lady's Expences, and at such a Rate too, as if he had been an Officer of the Finances, rather than a Magistrate. I was so vain as to think of supplanting this Lover, or at least, if I could not quite non-suit him, I flatter'd my self that I should put him to a Non-plus. For this end I began to frequent the Comedy, and soon had the Comfort to find that my Love was not repaid with Ingratitude.

The Difficulty was to find a convenient Opportunity of seeing one another; but Love and Fortune soon pav'd the way for our Interview. Young Q——, the Sister of D——, who also liv'd with her, happen'd to have the Small-Pox. The Counsellor, who was extremely afraid of the Consequence, immediately took D—— from those Lodgings, and gave her an Apartment in the Hotel d'Entragues: But my comic Mistress gave me notice of her new Quarters; and the very same Day I hir'd a Chamber there too. I took no body with me but one Domestic, who was the Confident of my little Secrets; and there, in spite of my troublesome Argus, it was easy for me to see his Mistress, who would have been glad to be mine, if I had been so generous as he was, to give her 14000 Livres a year. But I chose rather to go snacks with him in the Favors which the Fair-one granted, than to pay so dear for the Exclusion of a Rival. The Counsellor, for his part, was not so indifferent, and having a Mistrust, he left no Stone unturn'd to find out the real Truth of the matter; nor was it long e'er his Curiosity was satisfy'd. Any other Person, not so deeply smitten as he was, might have known what he had to trust to for a Trifle of Expence; but this unbelieving Gallant, who, perhaps, was also too much conceited of his own Merit, and had too great an Opinion of his Nymph's Virtue, to presume to be jealous of her Honor upon slight Appearances, try'd new Experiments. He gave a Bribe to a Chambermaid, who made him see enough with his own Eyes intirely to remove those Suspicions which he had so fondly indulged. In a word, he saw me with his dear Mistress; and at a time too, when we should have least of all thought of being seen together. What a Fury the provok'd Lover was in, is easy to imagine, Nevertheless he was so prudent as to dissemble his Passion till I was retir'd to my own Chamber. Then, like another Roland, he took a Revenge for the Infidelity of his Angelica upon every thing that happen'd in his way. He broke and dash'd all to pieces; he tore off her Topknot, and threaten'd no less than utter Destruction to all about him. To all this Noise the Damsel return'd no Answer but Tears, which at length wrought so far upon this outragious Lover, as to pacify him: being then more calm, he larded his severe Reproaches with the softest Expressions; and taking the advantage of her Foible, offer'd her to increase her Pension, if she wou'd but promise him inviolable Fidelity. The Fair-one swore that nothing should, hereafter, lead her astray from her Duty; and in a Flood of Tears she consented to receive 2000 Crowns Addition to her Pension, which made it 20000 Livres a year. The Bargain was concluded with great Joy on both sides; but yet it was not strictly perform'd; for I continu'd my Visits to the Damsel, till at length her Sister being recover'd of her Distemper, Miss return'd to her own House. The Difficulties that then occurr'd, together with my own Fickleness, quite cool'd my Passion, which it was the easier for me to get rid of, because it was not in the least founded in Esteem; and perhaps, had it not been purely for the Pleasure of teazing that Limb of the Law, I had withdrawn my Addresses sooner.

My Amour with the fair Comedian did not sequester me from Company; and I will venture to say, that I made a tolerable Figure in a Country where every body that is not French passes readily for a Barbarian. Several Gentlemen who saw how graciously the King receiv'd me at Versailles, were eager to pay me their Respects; particularly the Duke D——, first Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber, made me such a Compliment as I cannot easily forget. I became acquainted with this Nobleman at Versailles. He accosted me with the utmost Civility in the Great Gallery, the very Day after I had been introduc'd to his Majesty, and told me that I had good reason to be pleas'd with the Reception which the King gave me; but much more with what he said when I was withdrawn; which was, That of all the Foreigners who had been introduc'd to him, no body had saluted him with a better Grace and a more easy Air than the Margrave of Anspach and me. The said Duke made a Proposal to me for my entring into the Service of France; and also promis'd me that I should be made a Colonel, if I would turn Roman Catholic. I thank'd him for his obliging Offers; but assur'd him, that Interest should never make me alter my Religion. I was also at that time full of the Prejudices of the Protestants against the Catholics; moreover, I was of an Age not mature enough for serious Reflections: for I thought of nothing in the world but my Pleasures; and indeed, how could a Man of my years help abandoning himself to them, when all the Kingdom, Paris especially, breath'd an Air of Gayety, which there was no withstanding? France saw that Peace which she had long wish'd for, on the point of being concluded; her late Losses had been expung'd by the Victory at Denain, and other Advantages which the French Troops obtain'd, not only by the raising of the Siege of Landrecy, which the Allies had invested, but by the taking of Marchiennes and St. Amant. The Allies began therefore to think of a Peace, and the English were at last willing to consent to it. I have already had the Honor to acquaint you, that my Lord St. John was come to the Court of France to have a Conference upon the Articles of the so much desir'd Peace; and that he was receiv'd there as a Man who came with the most important News that 'twas possible for them to receive.