THE MEMOIRS OF CHARLES-LEWIS, Baron de Pollnitz.

This little Disorder in my Affairs happen'd at a very unseasonable Time: for the Electoress had been so kind as to get a Passport for me to go to Paris, by means of the late Madame of France; but as the same was only granted for two Months, 'twas impossible for me to make use of it, having been oblig'd to spend almost all that time in contriving Expedients to retrieve my Finances.

The Money that my Mother was so kind as to send me, put me again into a Condition of travelling. The Emperor Joseph's Death happening at that time, I resolv'd to go and see the Election of a new Emperor. This great Prince died at Vienna, the 17th of May, at 32 years of Age and nine Months. He left the Imperial Throne vacant, but his other Crowns devolv'd by Hereditary Right to his Brother. As soon as that Emperor died, the Empress Mother assum'd the Government of his Hereditary Kingdoms and Dominions, in the Absence of the King her Son, to whom she sent an Express to carry the News, as she did also to each of the Electors. The Saxon and Palatine Electors, as Vicars of the Empire, took Care of the Government of it during the Inter-regnum; and the Elector of Mentz, as Great Chancellor of the Empire, wrote circular Letters (which are call'd Letters of Intimation) to invite the Electors to the Assembly that was to be at Francfort for the ensuing Election.

As this Assembly was not to be till August, I went in the mean while to Holland. The first Town I pass'd thro' after I left Hanover, was Minden, which is a Town upon the Weser, encompass'd with Walls, and defended by some Half-Moons, which nevertheless don't hinder one's seeing every thing that passes in the Square from a Hill that commands the Town, and from whence 'tis an easy matter to beat it to the ground. 'Twas formerly a Hanse Town, being a part of Westphalia, and had always the Title of a Bishopric, till the Treaty of Munster, when it was seculariz'd, and given to the Family of Brandenburg, who settled a Regency here. It always retain'd two Chapters, one of Canons, and the other of Canonesses, into which the Ladies must make proof of their Nobility to be admitted. The famous Count Tilly, General of the Imperial Troops, when he was pursuing Maurice the Landgrave of Hesse-Cassel, attack'd and took this Place in 1626, when the General, exasperated with the Town, which tho' extremely weak, refused to comply with the very advantagious Terms that he offer'd it, took it by Storm, and put near 3000 Men, Soldiers and Inhabitants, to the Sword.

As I proceeded, I passed thro' Hervorden, which is an ill-built Town, in the County of Ravensberg. 'Tis an Imperial Town, and yet the King maintains a Garison in it. There's a Chapter of Ladies, the Abbess of which is a Native Princess of the Empire; and indeed this is what the Town is most remarkable for, it being otherwise not very considerable any more than the Towns of Lipstadt and Ham. These belong both to the King, of which the first is fortify'd, and Justice is therein administer'd, in the Name of the King and the Count de la Lippe, who has half of the Revenue. Every thing relating to the Fortifications or the Garison, is the King's. The Baron de Heiden, General of the Horse, was Governor of it when I was there.

After having left these two Places, there is no considerable Town till we come to Wesel, which stands upon the Rhine, and is a part of the Duchy of Cleves. 'Tis now one of the strongest Places in Europe; for the King, who was about fortifying it when I was there, ordered that no Cost should be spar'd to carry the Works to the utmost Perfection. The Person he employ'd to direct them was M. Bot a Frenchman, and Governor of the Place, one of the ablest Engineers now living. When I had rested a few days at Wesel I fell down the Rhine to Nimeguen, and by the way saw Emmerick and Schenk. Emmerick is a Hanse Town upon the Rhine, which was taken by the French in 1652, and restor'd two years after to the Elector of Brandenburg. Schenk, which is the first place in Holland, stands at the Point where the Rhine divides it self into two Branches, one of which is call'd Vahal, and the other retains the Name of the Rhine. This Place was built in 1586, by Martin Schenk a Gueldrian, from whom it took the Name.

Nimeguen [24] is built upon a Hill which rises by degrees to the very Centre of the Place, and is part of the Province of Guelderland. This Town is famous for having been taken and re-taken in the War the Dutch carry'd on with Spain for preserving their Liberty. That Crown was oblig'd at last to yield it to the Dutch, from whom Lewis XIV. took it in 1672; but it was restor'd to them soon after. 'Twas in this Place that the Peace was concluded between France and the Allies in 1678. At the beginning of the War for the Spanish Succession, the Duke of Burgundy endeavor'd to make himself Master of it, but he had not the Fortune to succeed. The Dutch have made it very strong, it being their main Bulwark towards the Duchy of Cleves. To go by Land from Nimeguen to Utrecht, I cross'd the Vahal over a Flying-Bridge. I shall not speak of this City now; for I did not stay there, but went strait to Leyden [25], a City in the Province of Holland, famous for its University, founded in 1575.

This is without dispute one of the finest Cities in all the United Provinces. 'Tis situate in the ancient Channel of the Rhine. The Streets which are broad and very long, are extremely neat, and are for the most part divided by Canals, that are of a great Conveniency to its Trade, which consists chiefly in Woollen Cloth, whereof the City of Leyden makes more than any other Town in Holland. There's a Library also in this City, which is a very good Collection of the most curious printed Volumes, and a great Number of very scarce old MSS. Here is likewise a Physic-Garden worth seeing, and especially a Hall for Anatomies, in which there is all manner of Curiosities. This City sustain'd a Siege by the Spaniards in 1574, when the Dutch shook off their Tyrants Yoke. During this the City was reduc'd to the last Extremity, the Siege having continu'd from Easter to the 3d of October, when the Spaniards were oblig'd to retire. Tho' Leyden is a very pretty City, yet I take it to be one of the dullest Places in all Holland to live in; for go where one will, we meet with such sickly Countenances as makes one melancholy to see them: not but that the Town's-People are as healthy here as elsewhere; only the Habit they have got of appearing always in their Night-Gowns, and of even walking the Streets in them, makes them look more like Valetudinarians, than People in Health.

After a few days stay at Leyden, I went to the Hague [26], which I think may well be call'd the principal Village of Europe, it having neither Walls nor Ramparts; but bating that, 'tis one of the pleasantest Places in all Holland; it being so delightful that the States-General have chose it, preferably to any other, for holding their Assemblies; and here also reside the Ministers of the Foreign Courts. There is not a Place in all Holland that yields such fine Walks, and the People are polite and much more sociable than in any other part of the Country. Most of the People of Quality meet every Evening alternately at one another's Houses: These Assemblies would be much finer than they are in general, if the Company was not so promiscuous; but the Freedom of the Country, and the Wealth of the Inhabitants, very often set the Burgher upon a Level with the Man of Quality, and sometimes too above him.

The Houses at the Hague are very fine, yet they are all without the Rules of Architecture, without Ornament, and in a manner without Regularity, excepting the Palaces of the Old Court and of Prince Maurice, and the House of M. Obdam. There's not a House in short that has the air of a great Man's House; the inner Rooms are commonly very mean, and not very commodious; they have no Notion of Anti-Chambers; the Domestics pass their Time in the Kitchens or the Entries; and, except at the Houses of Ambassadors, what we call a Swiss or Porter, is no where to be seen. There's a great Number of Jews at the Hague, who make a fine Figure, especially the Portuguese Jews. These Gentlemen have the Equipages of Ambassadors, with magnificent Houses and Gardens; and they often make Treats with the utmost Delicacy and Splendor. They are admitted into all Companies, and only differ from the Christians of this Country by being possess'd of much more Wealth, and living at a far greater Expence. I knew one of 'em whose Name was Duliz, that was very much esteem'd: He was good-natur'd, generous, extremely charitable, and reliev'd all indifferently that were Objects of Compassion, without giving himself the Trouble of enquiring whether the Sharers of his Bounty were Jews or Christians: And to my own knowledge he contributed as freely for the Maintenance of a Church, as if it had been his own Synagogue.

When I had staid about a Month at the Hague, I set out to see the chief Towns of Holland. The two first that one comes to are Delft and Rotterdam. Delft[27] is a League from the Hague. They say that this Town was built by Godfrey the Crooked when he had conquer'd this Country; and that Albert of Bavaria having made himself master of it, demolish'd its Walls and Castle. It was entirely burnt to the ground by Accident in 1536, and afterwards re-built. The like Misfortune happen'd to it again in 1654, when the Powder Magazine took fire, and the Town, tho' not totally consum'd, was nevertheless very much damag'd. It was again entirely re-built in the general Taste of all the Towns of Holland, that is to say, with Canals. There are two fine Churches at Delft, in the Chief of which there is the Tomb of Prince William of Orange, who was assassinated in this Town in 1584, by Belthazar Gerard, a Native of Franche-Comte; and in the other Church there is the Tomb of the famous Dutch Admiral Martin Trompe, which is of Marble, with a very fine Inscription, and beautiful Basso-Relievo's, which represent the principal Actions of that great Man. 'Twas in this Town, that the Plenipotentiaries of France resided during the Congress of Ryswic. All Ambassadors are receiv'd here on the part of the States, and 'tis here that they begin their March for their public Entry at the Hague. The Road which leads to it is lin'd with Elms, and entirely pav'd with Brick. There is not a Place in all Holland where so many Passage-Boats are continually coming and going. They set out every Half-hour for the Hague, and every Hour for Rotterdam. These Boats are the favorite Carriers of the Country; and they are the most convenient Passage, not only for the Regularity of their Departure and Arrival, but because the Fare is settled. I forgot to tell you, that Delft is the Place where they make the fine Earthen Ware.

From Delft I went and lay at Rotterdam [28]. This City, which stands upon the Maese, is second to Amsterdam for Trade, notwithstanding the Difficulty of entring the Maese, at the Mouth of which River Ships are oblig'd to stay for the Tide, and for a Pilot that knows the Coast. They say that Rotterdam derives its Origin from Ruther King of the Franks. This City is large and well built; and by its several Canals has a convenient Communication with all the Towns of Holland. The only Monument at Rotterdam is a Statue of Brass in the great Square, representing the famous Erasmus, to whom this City gave Birth.

From Rotterdam I went to Dort, or Dordrecht, which is a very ancient Town, and the first in Rank in the Dominions of Holland. It stands in an Island between the Maese, the Merwe, the Rhine, and the Ling, having been broke off from the main Land in 1421, by an Inundation, which laid almost all its Territory under Water, and drown'd about 100,000 Persons. All these Rivers form a kind of Sea; so that at a distance the Situation of this Town looks very much like that of Venice. This Place was anciently the Residence of the Counts of Holland, one of whom, viz. Albert of Bavaria, founded a Collegiate Church here in 1363. The Protestants assembled that famous National Synod here in 1618, which did not separate till the year following, after having establish'd that Religion which prevails at this time in the United Provinces.

When I had staid at Dort as long as was necessary to see the Town and Parts adjacent, I return'd to Rotterdam, from whence I went next day in a Boat for Amsterdam [29]. This is the most famous City in all Holland, its Extent, vast Trade and Riches being the Admiration of all Foreigners; and what is more surprizing is, that it owes its Aggrandizement to itself, and its great Wealth to its Commerce. 'Tis said that this City was not known before the Year 1204; and that then it was no more than a little Castle call'd Amstel, from the Name of the River on which it was built. The then Lord of it, Gysbrecht van Amstel brought Inhabitants to it, who were for most part poor Cottagers, that carried on a small Trade with their Neighbours by means of their Fishery; and at last by the force of Industry throve so well, that Amstel from a Village, became in a few years, a very considerable Town, which was always subject to its own Lords, till a second Gysbrecht being concern'd in the Assassination of Florence V. Count of Holland, was oblig'd for some time to get out of the way, which prov'd to the Detriment of Amsterdam; but Gysbrecht returning at length began to build Bridges and Towers, as he did several Houses at the same time in the neighbouring Country; and then they began to call the Place Amsteldam, by the Addition of the Word Dam, i. e. a Dyke, to its former Name of Amstel. This little Town was united afterwards to the County of Holland. William IV. Sovereign of the Country, gave it several Privileges in 1342. These Albert of Bavaria confirm'd afterwards, by giving the Inhabitants a Power also of enlarging the Town, which by its Situation, and the Industry of the Inhabitants to improve its Commerce, soon became considerable; yet it continued without any Walls, even so long as the Year 1482. In the 16th Century this City increas'd considerably in Power; and during the Troubles which arose on account of Religion, took great Care to preserve the Catholic Religion, and their due Allegiance to its Princes. It turn'd out the Ministers of the Reformed Religion, and all that had embrac'd that Doctrine several times. But at length finding its Trade decay; and that the Succours brought to it by the Duke of Alva, Governor of the Netherlands, were scatter'd, 'twas oblig'd to surrender to the Prince of Orange in 1587, on condition nevertheless that the Catholics should not be molested. This indeed was promis'd, but not duly perform'd; for the Clergy and Friars were soon after expell'd, and the Altars demolish'd; the consequence of which was the putting an entire stop to all the public Exercise of the Catholic Religion. The War which the Inhabitants of Amsterdam had upon their hands, and the Persecution of the Catholics had hurt its Trade very much, till the Civil Wars kindled in the neighbouring Provinces drove several Merchants from Brussels, Antwerp, &c. to Amsterdam, where these new Citizens contributed so much to the Revival of its Commerce, that they have render'd it one of the finest and richest Cities in Being; and 'tis commonly call'd, The Warehouse of the World.

If the Situation of Amsterdam be duly considered, it may be said to be one of the Wonders of the World. It stands so low, that it wou'd be continually in danger of being drown'd, were not the Water kept out by Dykes as high as the Waves. The River Amstel, so gentle that one can hardly perceive which way it runs, passes thro' the whole City, and forms the great Canal over which there are two Bridges. That which is at the Mouth of the Sea, call'd the Pont-neuf, is one of the finest of the kind, not only for its Sluices, but for the noble View there is from thence of the Harbor, where Ships are continually going out or coming in from all parts of the World. Besides the Great Canal, there are others which deserve to be taken notice of, as, The Emperors Canal, The Lords Canal; that of the Cingle, and the Princes Canal: All these Canals are broad and deep, and furnish'd with great Kays. The Sides are fac'd with Free-stone or Brick, and adorn'd with Lime-Trees and Elms. Very fine Houses are built on most of these Kays, and especially upon the Kay of The Lords Canal; and new ones are building every day, which are very beautiful; and tho' they are small, and not in the Rules of Architecture, have a certain Air of Neatness which is to be found no where else. Almost all the Houses have very fine Steps of shining black Marble, and noble Window-Frames, with very fine Panes, which are often of polish'd Glass.

The Streets of Amsterdam are generally pretty narrow, yet very fine and neat; and on certain Days of the Week great Care is taken to wash them. I must tell you by the way, that there is not a place where the People are so fond of washing as they are at Amsterdam; for they scour the inside of their Houses every Week without fail, together with the Furniture of the Kitchen; so that they are always in the Suds. 'Tis true, that without this Care every thing would grow mouldy and spoil, as Foreigners have very often experienc'd, who, how loth soever to comply with this sort of Slavery, which they thought only the Fashion of the Country, were soon oblig'd to submit to it: And I believe, that were it not for this Necessity of always washing, the Dutch wou'd not lose so much Time about it; for in other respects I have not observ'd 'em so nice. These People wear a Shirt for a Fortnight very well under a nasty, greasy Woollen Waistcoat: and their manner of eating is as slovenly; for the Generality know no Forks but their Fingers, wherewith they scoop up the Sallad swimming in the Vinegar, which is commonly their favorite Dish [30].

Of all the Public Buildings at Amsterdam, the Stadt-house is certainly the most magnificent. 'Tis a great Pile built of Free-stones very finely set, and forms a long Square. The 7 Porticoes which are in the main Front, and which the Architect has reduc'd to the number of 7, to denote the 7 United Provinces, are look'd upon as a defect in Architecture; for they are so narrow, that three Persons can scarce walk a-breast in them: which indeed is contrary to the Rules of Architecture, but yet no Fault in a Building, which like the Stadt-house is frequently expos'd to the Rage and Riots of a People as turbulent as the Amsterdamers. These seven Porticoes lead to two Gates at the Foot of the Grand Stair-Case. I don't pretend, Madame, to give you all the particular Beauties of this Structure, being not acquainted enough with the Rules, or even the Terms of Architecture, to presume to enter into any Description of this nature; therefore I shall confine my self to what most strikes the Eye.

The Pediment of the principal Front was to my mind well fancy'd. 'Tis adorn'd with a Relievo of white Marble, in which a Woman is represented supporting the Arms of the City. There is also a Neptune, some Figures of Heroes, Lions, Unicorns, and the whole is of admirable Workmanship. This Pediment is crown'd with three fine Statues of Brass, which denote Justice, Power and Plenty. On the very Top of this whole Building there's a Tower in form of a Dome. Here is a very fine Clock with Chimes, which are a pretty Amusement for such as are fond of that sort of Music.

The Inside of this House is every part of it very magnificent. The Chamber where they pass Sentence on Criminals is lin'd throughout with Marble, and adorn'd with Basso-Relievo's, representing all the Emblems and Attributes of Justice. That which is most admir'd there is a fine Marble Statue representing Themis. This Room is rais'd very high, and a little too dark; yet 'tis so contriv'd, that all the People in the Square may see the Criminals try'd. The three Porticoes at the Entrance answer to the three Windows of this Hall, which Windows instead of Glass, have noble Bars of Brass curiously wrought.

The Great Hall is another stately Room, to which there's an Ascent by a large Stair-Case with two Flights. All the Walls are lin'd with Basso-Relievo's of Marble, intermix'd with fine Paintings. There are two Galleries or Corridors at the two ends of the Hall, which lead to Apartments on the right and left. In these Chambers are kept the several Offices relating to Affairs of the City. The Jurisdiction or Province of each Chamber is inscrib'd over the Door; and the Affairs there treated, are represented in magnificent Basso-Relievo's. In one of these Rooms, such Persons as are not of the Reform'd Religion are oblig'd to be married before the Echevin, or else they are condemn'd in a Fine; and according to the Laws, their Marriage is to be reckon'd null and void.

In the Town-House is kept the famous Bank, which is the Repository of such a vast Treasure. Prodigious Arches and huge double Bars of Iron before the Windows, render it inaccessible. The Vaults are admirable, being built upon Piles in the middle of the Water, and yet so dry as if they were cut out of a Rock. One part of these Vaults serves for containing the immense Wealth, the other for confining Criminals. I had the Curiosity to go and see those Dungeons, which are all very lightsome and kept very neat; and in spite of the Proverb, they may be said to be very fine Prisons.

After I had been at the Town-House, I went to visit the Square where the Merchants assemble about the Affairs of their Trade from Noon till half an Hour past one o'clock. This Square, which is longer than 'tis broad, is surrounded with a large open Gallery or Corridor, supported by Free-stone Pillars, for shelter in case of Rain; and is call'd the Bourse or Exchange. Here are Merchants of all Nations, the diversity of whose Habits and Languages is as pleasing as the Beauty of the Place; and especially the Hurry those People are in that are call'd Brokers, who are the Men employ'd by the great Merchants to traffick the Bills of Exchange, or to transact their other Affairs. To see them scowering from one to the other all about this Square, there's no body but wou'd think they were mad.

The India-House and Admiralty-Office are also worth seeing. The first serves as a Warehouse for laying up such Merchandize as comes from the Indies. In the latter there is all the necessary Rigging for fitting out a Fleet to Sea. The India Company have their separate Arsenal, which is in nothing inferior to that of the States. In this City there are Hospitals also of every Kind very well maintain'd, and Houses of Correction for both Sexes. Amsterdam is the Place of Refuge for Sects of all Denominations, who have their several Chappels or Chambers there, wherein they exercise their Religion, but the Calvinists and Lutherans only are allow'd the Liberty of Public Worship. However the Jews have two fine Synagogues here; the one for the German, and the other for the Portuguese Nation. Of this Sect there are great Numbers, and they live in a particular Quarter, which is not the most inconsiderable of the City.

But notwithstanding all this Magnificence of Buildings, and the Concourse of so many Nations, I was quite out of conceit with Amsterdam. Every body sticks to Trade, and the Gratification of their Avarice is their whole Study. The Generality with their immense Wealth live like Misers; and all their Happiness, their Pleasure and their Pride consists in having a great deal of Money: They think of nothing but how to acquire Riches; and they look upon every Man that lives genteelly as a Prodigal. As to the Dutch Freedom, I don't believe there's a Place where it bears greater Sway than at Amsterdam. 'Tis true, that this so much boasted Liberty serves very often but to render the Citizens insolent with Impunity; for there is not a Scrub but thinks himself as good a Man as the best in the Country: Foreigners have sometimes much ado to bear it, they being often abus'd without daring to complain; for it costs so much to obtain Justice here, that People had rather put up with an Insult, than seek a Remedy by due Course of Law. The Attorneys and Solicitors of this City outdo those of all other Countries in flattering their Clients to their Ruin, and most of this Gentry cut a great Figure, have noble Houses and Gardens, and some too have very spruce Equipages.

From Amsterdam I went to Harlem [31], which is but three Leagues. Heretofore, while the Catholic Religion subsisted in this Country, it was a Bishopric, Suffragan of Utrecht. The Town stands but a League from the Sea, or rather upon its Shore, the Sea having overflow'd a considerable part of the Country, which forms a Lake, now call'd the Harlem Meer, or Sea of Harlem. This Town communicates by its Canals both with Amsterdam and Leyden. They pretend it was founded by the Normans in the ninth Century. Pope Paul IV. erected it into a Bishopric in 1559, at the Request of Philip II. King of Spain. In 1572 the Bishop was turn'd out by the Protestants, not long after which the Town was besieg'd and taken by Frederic of Toledo Son to the Duke of Alva, who oblig'd the Inhabitants to surrender at Discretion, and caus'd them to be treated in the most barbarous manner in the World. The Dutch retook it afterwards, and have held it ever since. There are very fine Walks in this City, and especially a Grove which is deem'd a charming Place by the Citizens of Amsterdam, who come hither in the Summer to make their Parties of Pleasure.

After having seen what was most remarkable at Harlem, I return'd by the way of Leyden to the Hague, where I had not been many days, before the King arriv'd, having pass'd the same day before Rotterdam, where he had been saluted with a triple Discharge of the Cannon, as he was also at Delfshaven, where he found his Yatcht, follow'd by several others that had been sent to him from the Hague. These attended the King to Delft, where his Coaches staid for him, with which he came to his Palace of the Old Court.

There he found a Guard of fourscore Men, with a Captain and a Pair of Colors. His Majesty caus'd his Arrival to be immediately notify'd to the President of the Assembly of the States-General, and next day, after Sermon time, he receiv'd the Deputation from the said States, consisting of nine Members, who when they arriv'd at the King's Palace found the Guard under Arms, Colors flying, and the Drum beating, and were receiv'd at the bottom of the Stairs by the Grand Marshal and several Gentlemen of the Chamber, and introduc'd into the King's Bed-chamber, who receiv'd them bare-headed and standing before an Arm-Chair. As the Audience was only to compliment his Majesty upon his Arrival, it was very short; and the States returning to the usual Place of their Assembly, went afterwards and din'd with the King.

Some days after this his Majesty set out for Honslaerdyk, a Place two Leagues from the Hague, which he enjoy'd by Inheritance from the late K. William of England. Thither I follow'd the King, who staid there till he had receiv'd Advice, that the Prince of Nassau, Governor of Friseland, was to come from the Army in Flanders to the Hague, there to make an end of the Differences betwixt him and his Majesty about the Succession to the Family of Orange, of which that Prince took the Title, by virtue of the last Will and Testament of the late King of England, the last Prince of the said Family. The King had been expecting him for some days, when a Courier arriv'd with the News, that the Prince was drown'd in the Passage of the Moerdyke. Having embark'd there with his Retinue to pass the Stryen-Sas, he was not got above thirty or forty Paces from Shore, when a furious Gust of Wind arose, by which the Vessel was overset and lost. As the Sea swell'd at the same time, and the Prince knew not how to swim, he could not get ashore. Colonel Hilkes who accompanied him was drown'd with him, and none but his Domestics escap'd. The unfortunate Prince was seen to hang by the Mast of the Vessel for some Moments, and there were some hopes of relieving him, had it not been for a Wave, which drove by a Blast of Wind carried him off from the piece of Wood he clung to, and cast him away. The Body of this Prince, who was very much regretted, was not found till about a Week after, in the very same place where the Vessel happen'd to be cast away. 'Twas carried to Dort where 'twas embalm'd, and then remov'd to Lewarden, there to be interr'd in the Tomb of his Family.

The King was the more afflicted at this sad Accident, because the News was told him too hastily, by a foolish Courier, who, for want of knowing his Master's Temper, thought that the News of the Prince of Friseland's Death wou'd not be disagreeable to him; but the King gave public Demonstration how sorry he was for his Loss, and sent a Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the last Princess-Dowager of Nassau, to assure her how much he sympathiz'd in her loss.

The Death of the Prince of Friseland interrupted the whole Treaty of Accommodation. The said Prince left a Daughter, and the Princess his Wife pregnant, who wrote to the States to desire them not to do any thing in prejudice of the Infant of whom she hoped to be deliver'd; and that as they were Executors Testamentary, they would preserve the Bulk of his Inheritance entire; and that otherwise she openly protested against every thing that might be done. This Demand did not hinder the States from granting the King a provisional Portion; and it was agreed, that his Majesty, as well as the Heirs of the Prince of Nassau, now deceas'd, should be paid 150000 Dutch Florins a year, out of the Estate of the Orange Family: That the Palaces of Prince Frederic-Henry, of which the King was already in Possession, shou'd continue his; but that the Dieren Palace shou'd be common both to the King and the Prince's Heirs; and that the rest should be referr'd to a definitive Accommodation, which is the Thing that still remains to be done. I had the Honor to pay my Court punctually all the Time that his Majesty spent at the Hague; and when he set out, I went with him to Dieren, where I took leave of the King, little thinking 'twou'd be the last Time I should see him.

I went thro' Dusseldorff [32], the Capital of the Duchy of Berg, which was then the Residence of the Elector Palatine, who, it must be noted, was the first of the Palatine Electors that liv'd here; for the Electors commonly resided heretofore at Heidelberg or Manheim. The Elector John-William had preferred Dusseldorff to all other Places, from an early liking that he took to that Town, of which he was Master, even in the Life-time of the Elector his Father; who when he married his Son to the Emperor Leopold's Sister, yielded to him the Duchies of Juliers and Berg, of which Dusseldorff is the Capital City, and wou'd have been one of the finest in Germany, if the Emperor had liv'd long enough to put the great Projects which he had form'd in execution. This Prince had already begun to augment the City with one entire Quarter, the Streets whereof were as strait as a Line; and I saw the Plan of a new Palace that he intended to build, which wou'd certainly have been one of Europe's Grand Structures. As to that now at Dusseldorff, the only beautiful part of it is that call'd the Gallery; tho' why it has that Name I can't imagine, since nothing resembles a Gallery less. It contains five Rooms, three of which are much bigger than the others. One of these Rooms is quite full of magnificent Paintings by the famous Rubens. In another there's a great number of Paintings by Van der Werf, a Dutch Painter who died lately at the Hague. If a Man has ever so little Taste or Skill in Painting, 'tis impossible for him to be indifferent for such Pictures, which may be said to be all Master-pieces. Such are those representing the good old Man Simeon holding the Savior of the World in his Arms; our Lord teaching in the Temple; and the Pictures of the Elector and Electoress, in two particular Rooms of the first Story of this Gallery, are the Models of the most magnificent Statues of Italy, sent for by the Elector from all parts of that Country at a vast Expence. The three others are full of modern Statues of Marble and Brass, which are for the most part done by the famous Gripilli an Italian, and an excellent Artist, especially for Busts that require a Likeness.

In the Court-yard of the Palace there's an Equestrian Statue of the Elector arm'd cap-a-pee, with the Electoral Bonnet on his Head, and mounted upon a very fine Horse of yellow Copper. In the same Court there is likewise a very fine Fountain, the Group of which is of Brass very curiously wrought, but so incumber'd with Works of different Kinds, that 'tis difficult to distinguish them.

Five Leagues from Dusseldorff there's a Hunting-Seat call'd Bensberg[33], which is built in a Forest on a Hill, from whence there's a fine Prospect of the City of Cologne, the Rhine, and all the flat Country. To this Castle there's a large Avenue, by a gradual Ascent, till one comes to the Grate of the first Court, on each side whereof there's a large Guard-House, the Front of which forms a Gallery supported by Pillars of grayish Marble, which is dug in this Country. The rest of this Seat has very much the air of the Castle of Versailles, only 'tis not so large or lofty. In the two Wings of this Building, there are two Stair-Cases which lead to the Apartments. 'Tis plain that this Structure was design'd entirely by an Italian; because, according to the Fashion of that Country, the Apartments consist of a great number of Rooms all upon one Floor too, but without any Closets or Conveniencies. The outside of this Structure is the oddest thing in the World. It consists of numberless Ornaments, which 'tis impossible to distinguish: And I think it no Injustice to the Castle of Bensberg, to say, 'tis a noble fine House full of Imperfections.

After having given you an Account of the Elector's several Buildings, I fancy, Madame, that some short Memoirs of his Family will not be disagreeable to you. To be sure you are not ignorant, that the Succession of the Neubourg Family to the Dignity of Elector Palatine, is owing only to the Extinction of the Protestant Palatine Family, the last of which was the Elector Charles, who left but one Sister, married to Monsieur Philip of France, Duke of Orleans, Brother to Lewis XIV. Philip-William Duke of Neubourg, the Father of him whom I have had the Honor of mentioning to you, was the first Elector of this Branch. This Prince, who had a numerous Family, match'd them to the chief Crowns of Europe, and he had no less than four Princes and five Princesses.

The eldest of the Princes was the Elector John-William of Neubourg, who married to his first Wife an Archduchess of Austria, Sister to the Emperor Leopold, by whom he had no Issue. He married to his second Wife Anne-Mary-Louisa of Medicis, Daughter to Cosmo III. Great Duke of Tuscany; but having no more Issue by this Match than by the former, he took the Hereditary Prince of Sultzbach to his Court, where he was brought up as the Heir of his Family, in case that himself and the Princes his Brothers died without Male Issue. This young Prince was then look'd upon as the Electoral Prince, and receiv'd all the Honors as such. The Person who had the Care of his Education was the Baron de Seckingen; and it may be said, that he did his utmost to make a great Prince of him.

The second was Charles-Lewis, now the Elector.

The third Francis-Lewis de Neubourg, Elector of Triers and Grand Master of the Teutonic Order.

The fourth Alexander-Sigismond, Bishop of Augsbourg.

The Princesses were all married. The eldest, whose Name was Eleonora-Magdalena-Theresa of Neubourg, married the Emperor Leopold, Father to the present Emperor, and died Jan. 19, 1719, aged 74.

The second was married to the King of Portugal.

The third, nam'd Mary-Anne of Neubourg, was married to Charles II. King of Spain.

The fourth, Dorothy of Neubourg was married to the Duke of Parma, by whom she had among other Children Princess Elizabeth Farnese, the second Wife of Philip V. King of Spain.

The fifth and last of these Princesses, Hedwiga-Elizabeth of Neubourg, was married to James-Lewis Sobieski, by whom she had Clementina Sobieski, Wife to the Chevalier de St. George. The Mother died at Olaw the 10th of August 1722, aged 50.

After having pass'd some time at the Palatine Court, I set out about the middle of August for Francfort on the Main, where I arriv'd a few days before the opening of the Conferences for the Election of an Emperor.

Francfort [34] is one of the most considerable Towns of all Germany, has the Title of an Imperial City, and is a part of the Diocese of Mentz. 'Tis divided into two parts by the Main, over which there is a fine Stone Bridge. The frequent Fires which this City has suffer'd, and especially that of 1719, have contributed not a little to its Embellishment, all the Houses being re-built in a better Taste than before; yet most of the Buildings are still of Timber and fac'd with Plaister that is color'd, few private Men having been at the Expence of building with Stone. Francfort may thank the Jews for most of those Fires; for the Jews who are very numerous here, live in a Quarter by themselves, which is shut up every Night; and being so narrow, that they are straiten'd for Room, they are oblig'd to lie in Heaps as it were upon one another, in very high Houses, which being moreover of Timber, easily catch Fire. They have seen their whole Quarter in Ashes twice successively, because they refus'd the Assistance they might have had to extinguish the Flames; for they never wou'd open their Gates for fear of being robb'd, unless when they saw that the People were going to break them open by Force. Notwithstanding all the Reasons for not suffering them at Francfort, they have a better Toleration than the Calvinists, and have fine Synagogues; whereas the Calvinists do not enjoy the free Exercise of their Religion, the Magistrates and most of the Inhabitants being Lutherans.

The City of Francfort is one of the first that embrac'd the Opinions of Luther, which presently occasion'd a Revolt: For the Inhabitants demanding the free Exercise of Lutheranism, and the Clergy and Senate vigorously opposing it, there was an Insurrection, in which the Inhabitants having the Advantage, they depos'd the Senate, and establish'd a sort of Magistracy compos'd of twenty-four, taken from the Body of the Populace. These Acts of Violence had such fatal Consequences, that at last in 1530 the City embrac'd the Confession of Augsbourg, enter'd into the League of Smalcald, and had a share in the other Calamities which afflicted the Empire. 'Twas besieg'd twice in 1552, by Maurice Elector of Saxony, and by Albert Margrave of Brandenburg, surnam'd the Alcibiades of Germany, who made himself Master of it; but it soon after recover'd its Liberty, and since that time has increas'd very much. The Elections and Coronations of the Emperors render it a very considerable Place. These two Grand Ceremonies are perform'd in the Church of St. Bartholomew, which is a vile, little, dark Building, very improper, in short, for Solemnities of that sort. The Imperial Feast is kept on the very Day of the Coronation, in the Great Hall of the Town-house, which is indeed a very wide but irregular Room. The Town-house is called Romer: They say 'twas anciently the House of a private Gentleman, who made a Present of it to the City. If that be true, it may be said the Gentleman liv'd at large.

This City has considerable Fairs, which draw a great Number of Merchants to it and People of Quality. The River Main which falls into the Rhine near Mentz, is a great Advantage to its Commerce. This, Madame, is within a Trifle all that can be said of Francfort. I am now to have the Honor of giving you a particular Account of the chief Circumstances that attended the Election and Coronation of the Emperor.

The Conferences for the Election were open'd on the 25th of August, and held from nine o'clock in the Morning till Noon. The Plenipotentiaries of the absent Electors therein communicated their full Powers, and referr'd them to the Elector of Mentz, who afterwards made a Speech upon what had given occasion to that August Assembly. In this first Session it was resolv'd, that every thing there treated of shou'd be kept secret; and then they adjourn'd.

The March of the Electors of Mentz and Triers to and from the Town-house was very grand. The first was Lotharius-Francis de Schonborn, of the Family of the Counts of Schonborn; and the second was Charles-Joseph de Lorrain, who was of the Lorrain Family, and died in 1715, on the 4th of December. These two Princes rode each in a great Coach, cover'd with black Cloth, attended by all their Houshold and Guards in close Mourning.

The Equipages of the Ambassadors of the absent Electors were very spruce, especially the Equipages of the Ambassadors of Saxony, who had also the Honor to have with them their Master's Son, who went by the Name of the Count of Lusatia. Besides, the King of Poland had given them his own Equipage, and permitted them to cloath their Domestics in his Livery.

The Ambassadors whom the King (of Prussia) sent in quality of Elector of Brandenburg, appear'd likewise with a Splendor worthy of the Prince whom they represented. They were the Count de Dlona and M. Henning; but the former had the Honors of the Embassy. This Minister appear'd with a Train of 40 Gentlemen of the King's Bed-chamber; he had 5 Coaches drawn by 6 Horses each, 8 Pages, 36 Footmen and 2 Swiss. M. Henning, who was appointed to attend to the Business, had not the Satisfaction to see the Success of these Assemblies; for having in the very first Session spoke with great Zeal for the Interests of his Country, he heated himself to such a degree, that he found himself out of Order when he came home; and that very Night he had a Fit of an Apoplexy of which he died next day. The Count de Metternich was appointed to supply his Place. No body was fitter to serve the King in the Assembly at Francfort than this Nobleman, who had in several Embassies acquir'd a great Knowledge of the Affairs of the Empire; and particularly in the Embassy at Ratisbon, in which he was employ'd a long time.

As soon as the Conferences were open'd, the Foreign Ministers, viz. the Pope's Nuncio, the Envoys of Savoy and of the other Princes of Italy, the Envoy Extraordinary of the States-General, and those of the Princes of the Empire, notify'd their Arrival to the Electoral College, and sent their Credentials to the Chancery, which was kept at the Palace of the Elector of Mentz, that Prince being by Birth Chancellor of the Empire.

At the beginning of these Conferences there were some Difficulties started, relating to the Pretensions of the Nuncio and Nephew of the then Pope Clement XI. who pretended that the Electors should pay him the first Visit; and that when he return'd it to them, they were bound to give him the Right Hand. The Electors were very much startled at the Nuncio's Demand, and publickly refus'd to subscribe to such Claims; so that no Visit was made on either side, and the Nuncio only saw the Electors in a Garden where they happen'd to meet by Chance. The Nuncio threaten'd he would protest against the Ninth Electorate establish'd in favor of the Family of Brunswic-Hanover, and against the Royal Dignity of Prussia; but he was given to understand, that neither of his Protestations would avail any thing. And the Ambassadors of Prussia sent him word in plain Terms, that if he offered to protest against the Regal Dignity of their Master, the King would not fail to give Order to his Troops that were in Italy, to enter into the Ecclesiastic State, and to live at Discretion therein, as if it were an Enemy's Country. The Nuncio frighted by those Menaces, and thinking he already saw the Prussian Troops in his Holiness's Territories, sent his Secretary forthwith to the Ambassadors to assure them that he wou'd not protest; that he never had a Thought nor Order for it; that his Holiness had all the Respect and Esteem for the King their Master which so great a Prince deserv'd; and that he would be glad to give Proofs of it upon every Occasion.

The Electors of Cologn and Bavaria protested likewise against the Assembly, in case they were refused Admission to the Conferences for the Election; but they were of no more avail than those of the Nuncio. Those Princes sent their Protests by the Post, in form of Letters, directed to the Count de Papenheim Marshal of the Empire, and seal'd with an unknown Seal. The Situation those Electors stood in at that time, did not permit them to cause their Protests to be publish'd with the due Formalities, nevertheless they were soon made public. The Respect and Friendship People had for the illustrious Family of Bavaria, made every body eager to have Copies of 'em, but they signify'd nothing, and the Conferences continu'd.

On the 2d of October the Conferences being ended for that Day, the Magistrates and Heads of the Militia, went in a Body to the Town-house, to take the Oath prescrib'd by the Golden Bull. They there found the Electors, who were at that time in Francfort, and the Ambassadors of the absent Electors, all sitting in Chairs of State, under a great Canopy of black Velvet. After the Oath was read, the Magistrates and the Officers of the Militia took it in presence of the Elector of Mentz, as did also the Citizens and the Garison, but the Ceremony was different; for it was not taken in the Town-house, but without it, in an open Gallery, rais'd in a great Square, and hung with Cloth. There the Chancellors of the two Spiritual Electors and the Magistrates receiv'd the Oath of the Citizens, in presence of the Electors and Ambassadors, who were plac'd at the Windows of the Town-house. The Burghers, who were to the Number of 14 Companies, took the Oath first, and then the Soldiers of the Garrison.

On the 10th of October Proclamation was made by Sound of Trumpet for all Foreigners, who were not in the Retinue of the Electors, or the Electoral Ambassadors, to retire out of the City before the Sun was set, till the Electors had chose an Emperor. The Nuncio thought at first, that his Character and the Respect due to the Holy Father would exempt him from the general Rule; but being inform'd of the contrary, he retir'd to Aschaffenbourg.

On the 12th, about seven in the Morning all the Bells were rung, upon which the Burghers and the Soldiers of the Garrison assembled at the Houses of their respective commanding Officers; and then went and posted themselves in the Streets leading from the Town-house to the Church of St. Bartholomew. The Burghers had the Post of Honor from the Soldiers. At nine o'clock the Electors and Ambassadors went to the Town-house, the Courts and Equipages of all but the Ambassadors of Bohemia having laid aside their Mourning.

The Moment after the Electors arriv'd in the usual Chamber of the Assembly they went into other Rooms, where they caus'd themselves to be dress'd in their Electoral Habits, which are very majestic, being wide Gowns very much plaited with very long Sleeves, the Linings and Facings being of Ermin; and over all the Electors wear a sort of Mantle of Ermin. The Habits for the Spiritual and Temporal Electors are much the same, only those of the former are of Scarlet, and those of the latter of Crimson-Velvet. Their Caps are of the Color of their Habits, and like them turn'd up with Ermin.

As soon as the Electors were dress'd they return'd to the Assembly-Room, and then went with the Ambassadors of the other Electors from the Town-House to the Square, where they found Horses sumptuously caparison'd, which they mounted, and thus rode in Cavalcade to St. Bartholomew's Church. The three Electors rode first in one Row bare-headed. The four Ambassadors of the absent Electors rode next, according to the Rank of their Masters. Their Electoral Highnesses and the Ambassadors were receiv'd at the Door of the Church by the Bishop of Neustadt at the Head of the Chapter, who conducted them into the Choir, where they plac'd themselves, according to their Rank, in the Stalls of the Canons, which were lin'd with Velvet and Gold-Lace. The Elector of Triers sate by himself opposite to the Altar, where a Praying-Desk and an Arm-Chair were set up for him, which were lin'd also with Crimson-Velvet.

When all the Company were seated, the Bishop of Neustadt began the Mass. At the first Consecration, the Ambassadors of the Protestant Electors went into the Chappel of the Conclave which joins to the Choir: After the Elevation of the Host they return'd to their Places, where they remain'd during the rest of the Office, and then the Electors and Ambassadors all went up to the Altar. The Elector of Mentz was in the middle between the Elector of Triers on his Right and the Elector-Palatine on his Left. The Ambassadors were in the same Row, according to their Rank, on the Right and Left of the Electors. The Elector of Mentz took the Book of the Gospels and laid his Right Hand upon it, as did also the Electors that were present, and the Ambassadors of those who were absent, and then took the customary Oath to elect no Person for Emperor but one that they should think in Conscience to be most qualify'd. After having taken the Oath they went into the Chapel of the Conclave, where they were shut up near three Hours. Then they return'd into the Church and plac'd themselves in a Gallery erected over the Grate that separates the Choir from the Nave, which was lin'd with Scarlet Cloth and hung with Tapestry, and had seven Arm-Chairs plac'd in it of red Velvet, adorn'd with Lace and Fringe of Gold. The Electors and Ambassadors being seated, the Chancellor of Mentz read aloud the Act which had been just drawn up in the Conclave, whereby Charles King of the Romans, and of Spain, was proclaim'd Emperor. Then the whole Church resounded with great Shouts of Long live the Emperor! And at the same instant the Cannon was fir'd from the Ramparts, and the Burghers and the Garison made three Discharges of their small Arms.

After the Proclamation the Electors and the Ambassadors descended from the Gallery to their Places in the Choir, and after the singing of Te Deum which was tun'd by the Bishop of Neustadt, they return'd to the Town-House in the same Order that they came. There the Electors quitted their Robes of Ceremony, and each return'd to their Palaces, where they stay'd till the Evening; and the Ambassadors did the same. At Night they all supp'd at the House of the Count de Windisgratcht, the first Ambassador of Bohemia, and by consequence the Ambassador of the new Emperor, who gave a magnificent Feast, which was accompany'd with a very fine Concert of Music. This great Day's Work was concluded by the Choice which the Electoral College made of Prince Charles of Neubourg, to carry to the new Emperor the Act of his Proclamation.

Notwithstanding the surprizing Concourse of People from all Quarters to see this august Ceremony, there was not the least Disorder in the whole Solemnity, excepting a little Dispute that happen'd between the Prince de la Tour Taxis and the Count of Nassau-Weilbourg. The former, tho' of a modern Family in comparison to the Count, yet presuming upon his Title of Prince, claim'd Precedency of the Count, but the latter decided the Difference in an instant; for he took the Prince by the Arm, and pushing him behind him, said to him, You are to know, Sir, that such Princes as you are, walk behind such Counts as I am. The Prince very much stunn'd at the Compliment, did not think proper to push his Pretensions farther.

Immediately after the Ceremony of the Election was over, I set out for Zell, where I had the Misfortune to find my self Motherless as well as Fatherless. My Mother having died there during my stay at Francfort, whose Death grieved me very much, and the more because 'twas the first Incident I had met with in all my Life to give me a serious Concern: But now perhaps, that I am more us'd to Disappointments, such News would not make so much Impression upon me as it did then.

I stay'd some time at Zell to settle several Affairs with my Brother relating to my Mother's Succession, till I had a Letter acquainting me that the Ceremony of the Emperor's Coronation was fix'd for the 22d of December, and thereupon I set out immediately again for Francfort.

I travell'd thro' Hanover, which I have already had the Honor to mention to you, and from Hanover I went to Cassel, which Town is the common Residence of the Landgrave of Hesse, and divided into two Parts by the River Fulde. The New Town is very well built with pretty Houses, and the Streets are very even and spacious. The Landgrave's Palace which is old is encompass'd with Ramparts, part of which on that side next to the Country forms a Terras planted with Orange-Trees, which in Winter are cover'd by a boarded House. The Name of the present Landgrave is Charles, who was born the 3d of August 1654, and has had seven Children by Mary-Amelia of Courland.

1. Prince Frederic, born the 28th of August 1676, who became King of Sweden by his Marriage with Eleonora Princess of Sweden, who succeeded Charles XII. He had to his first Wife Louisa-Dorothea-Sophia only Daughter of the King of Prussia, at which time he was Stadtholder of Cleves, and had a Regiment of Foot in his Majesty's Service.

2. The Princess Sophia-Charlotta Duchess-Dowager of Mecklemburg-Swerin, who lives still in Mecklemburg, from whence she often goes to the Court of her Father.

3. Prince William, who is a Lieutenant-General of the Dutch Forces, and Governor of Maestricht. He marry'd Wilhelmina of Saxe-Zeits.

4. The Princess Mary-Louisa, Dowager of the Prince of Nassau-Friesland drown'd in his Passage at the Moerdyke.

5. The Prince Maximilian, marry'd to a Princess of Hesse-Darmstad.

6. The Prince George, a General Officer in the Service of Prussia, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle.

7. Wilhelmina-Charlotte, who was a most accomplish'd Princess, but died some time ago.

These Princes and Princesses met very often at the Court of the Landgrave their Father, and then render'd it one of the most splendid in Germany, not only by reason of their Magnificence, but for their affable Deportment to all Mankind, but especially to Foreigners. I was loth to go from Cassel, but as the Term fix'd for the Emperor's Coronation drew near, I could not stay there any longer.

And indeed, I arrived at Francfort but a few Hours before the Emperor. The Electors and Ambassadors went out of Town and met his Imperial Majesty, as did also the Magistrates with the Burgo-Master, and complimented him under a Tent erected there for that purpose. When the Compliments were ended his Majesty went again into his Coach, as did the Electors and Ambassadors into theirs, and they enter'd the City while the Cannon fir'd and the People shouted, Long live the Emperor Charles VI. His Imperial Majesty alighted at the Church of St. Bartholomew. The Elector-Palatine who was so indispos'd that he could not go out to meet his Majesty, receiv'd him at the Door of the Church, as did also the Bishop of Neustadt at the Head of the Chapter; and his Majesty was conducted to a Throne set up for him on the Right-side of the Altar, by the Electors. The Elector-Palatine walk'd before, and the two other Electors supported the Emperor. When he was seated on his Throne, the Bishop tun'd the Te Deum, and gave the Benediction. The Emperor was afterwards conducted with the same Ceremonies to his Palace, which was hung with Mourning. The Electors and Ambassadors having accompany'd his Imperial Majesty to his Closet, retir'd to their respective Habitations. The next and following Days the Emperor receiv'd the Visits of the Electors, the Ambassadors, and the Electoress Palatine, which he return'd.

When the 22d of December, the Day fix'd for the Coronation, was arriv'd, all the Burghers and the Garison were drawn up under Arms all the way from the Imperial Palace to the Church. The Procession was begun by the Footmen and Pages belonging to the Ambassadors, to the Elector-Palatine and to the Emperor, and they were follow'd by the Courtiers of the Elector and of the Emperor, and by Persons of Quality that were in the Ambassadors Retinue. After them there appear'd six Heralds at Arms, the first of which carry'd a single Eagle, the second a double Cross, the third a Lion, and the three others Spread-Eagles, the whole after the manner of the Roman Ensigns. After the Heralds, came the Ambassadors, the Vicars of the Electors, and the Elector-Palatine, bearing the Imperialia or Ornaments of the Empire; and immediately after them the Emperor appear'd, under a stately Canopy. His Habit was like that of the Secular Electors, that is to say, a Robe of Crimson-Velvet turn'd up with Ermin: He had on his Head a Crown enrich'd with Diamonds, which was the Crown of his Family, and he rode a very fine Spanish Horse, the Equipage of which was truly magnificent. Behind the Emperor came the principal Officers of his Houshold, and the Captain of the Guards at the Head of his Company; and the Elector-Palatine's Life-Guards closed the March.

When the Emperor arrived at the Church, the Electors of Mentz and Triers in their Pontificalibus went and receiv'd him at the Door, from whence they conducted him to his Seat in the Choir over-against the High Altar. There his Imperial Majesty heard the Mass, after which he was conducted to the Town-House almost in the same Order as was observ'd at his coming to Church, with this Difference, that the Emperor was deck'd with the Ornaments of the Empire, which consist of the Crown, the Mantle, and Charlemain's Sword. His Majesty was now on foot between the two Ecclesiastical Electors, who accompany'd him, as did the Elector-Palatine, and the Vicars and Ambassadors of the absent Electors to the Great Hall of the Town-House, where the Imperial Feast was prepar'd. The Emperor plac'd himself at one of the Windows looking into the great Square, on purpose to be seen by the People; of whom there was such a Multitude, that not only the Square but the Windows and Roofs of the Houses were cover'd with them.

From this Window his Majesty saw the Officers of the Empire perform their Functions. The Count de Papenheim the Elector of Saxony's Vicar, as Grand Marshal of the Empire, was the first that began the Ceremony. He was mounted on a very fine Horse, which he rode full gallop to a Heap of Oats in one Corner of the Square, wherewith he fill'd a Measure of Silver, after which he return'd to the Middle of the Square, where he threw both the Oats and the Measure among the Populace, and then he went to the Banquetting-Room.

The Elector-Palatine appear'd next, encompass'd with his Guards, and preceded by his Courtiers. He went on horseback to a Kitchen built for the purpose in the great Square, where he found a whole Ox roasting on a Spit, of which he cut off a Slice, and putting it into a Gold Dish he carry'd it to the Emperor's Table.

The Count de Zinzendorf, Vicar to the Elector of Hanover as Treasurer of the Empire, came next. He was on horseback attended by the Emperor's Guards, and taking a compass round the Square he scatter'd Medals of Gold and Silver among the Populace, which he took out of a couple of Bags of Cloth that were ty'd to his Saddle-Bow. These Medals represented on one side the Globe of the Earth encompass'd with Clouds, and this Latin Inscription, Constantiâ & Fortitudine. On the other side was this Legend, Carolus, Hispaniarum, Hung. & Bohem. Rex. A. A. Electus in Regem Roman. coronat. Francof. 22 Decemb. 1711. Over which there was an Imperial Crown like to that of Charlemain.

The Count de Dhona Ambassador from the King as Elector of Brandenburg, perform'd the Function of Great Chamberlain of the Empire in the absence of the Prince of Hohenzollern the Elector's Vicar, who was at that time indispos'd. The Count preceded by all his Livery, and accompany'd by some of the Emperor's Guards, rode on horseback towards the middle of the Square, where a Table was erected on which there was a Basin and Ewer of Silver gilt full of Water, with a Napkin that had been dipp'd in it, all which he took and carry'd into the Banquetting-Room, and gave to the Emperor to wash.

Afterwards the Count de Kinski, Ambassador of his Imperial Majesty as King of Bohemia, officiated for the Person whom he represented, as Great Cup-Bearer of the Empire: For this purpose he took a Goblet of Gold and fetch'd Wine at a Fountain erected in the middle of the Square representing the Imperial Eagle; which done, the Count went into the Banquetting-Room, and gave it to the Emperor to drink.

Thus did the Officers of the Empire acquit themselves of their several Functions: After this the Emperor plac'd himself alone at a Table upon a rais'd Floor, cover'd with red Cloth; and over it there was a Canopy of Gold Brocade. When the Emperor was seated the Electors plac'd themselves at Tables that were prepar'd for them on both sides of the Hall, on Floors that were a Step lower than the Emperor's. Over each Table there was a Canopy of Crimson-Velvet inrich'd with Gold, and they had each an Arm-Chair of the same. On the Right-side of each Table there was a magnificent Beaufet. The three Electors sate alone at their several Tables, and the Ambassadors of the absent Electors, after having stood a little while behind the Chairs plac'd for their respective Masters, went into another Room. On the following Days the Electors din'd with the Emperor, and his Majesty went also and din'd with the Electors. At length, after the Emperor had perform'd all the Ceremonies that are observ'd at Coronations, he set out from Francfort for his Hereditary Dominions, where he was impatiently expected by his Subjects.

Just as I was ready to depart from Francfort I receiv'd the melancholy News of the Death of the King's Brother the Margrave Philip, to whom I was very much attached, and was therefore mightily afflicted for the Loss of him. The King's Ambassadors, to avoid the Expence of putting their Equipage in Mourning, kept his Death secret, so that they did not notify it to his Imperial Majesty till the Day before he went.

I set out from Francfort much about the same time as the Emperor did, and pass'd through Cassel, Hanover, and Dusseldorff. I lik'd Francfort so well before, that it tempted me to return to it; and besides, that was the Place to which a Passport was to be directed that I had sent for from France, in order to carry me to Paris. As soon as I receiv'd it I traveled thro' Minden, which I have already had the Honor to mention to you; and from thence, after having pass'd through Bilefeld a little Town in the County of Ravensberg, I arriv'd at Munster.

This, which was formerly an Imperial City, is now the See of a Bishop, Prince of the Empire, and Lord of the Town and its Jurisdiction. It stands in Westphalia in a large Plain, and on a little River which renders it very strong. It was the Birth-place of the famous Muntzer, the Head of the Anabaptists, a Sect of Heretics, who grew so powerful that they undertook to make themselves Masters of the City, and to chuse themselves a King; and about the End of the sixteenth Century, they accordingly chose for their Sovereign one John of Leyden, a Taylor, infamous for the Cruelties and Outrages which he committed. But Heaven deliver'd the City from such a Scourge; for at length after some Resistance it was reduc'd, and John of Leyden was put to death by the Hangman. The City revolted again afterwards; but at last the Bishop humbled it in 1661, and since that time it has always been subject to the Bishops its Sovereigns. 'Twas at Munster that was held the famous Assembly of Westphalia, which establish'd the Fortune of many Sovereigns, and the Religion of their Subjects. The Peace which was there sign'd serves also as a Basis for all the Treaties that are made at this time. The Treaty of Munster imported in substance, "That Maximilian Duke of Bavaria should remain in Possession of the Electorate of the Counts Palatine, which had been given him by the Emperor Ferdinand II: That Charles Lewis Count Palatine should be restor'd to his Principality, and be created an eighth Elector for himself and his Descendants. That the Protestants should have their Churches and the free Exercise of their Religion, on the Footing as it was in 1624; and that they should retain the Church-Revenues, of which they had been possess'd ever since the first of January, that Year: That Sweden should have Hither-Pomerania, a Part of the other Pomerania, the Island and Principality of Rugen, the Town and Port of Wismar, Archbishopric of Bremen, and the Bishopric of Verden, with the Title of a Duchy: That the Elector of Brandenburg should have the Bishoprics of Halberstadt, Minden and Camin, with the Farther-Pomerania: That France should have the intire Sovereignty of Metz, Toul, and Verdun, and the Dependencies thereof, that of Pignerol and Brisac, the Landgraviate of Upper and Lower Alsace, &c. That the Confederates should restore the Towns they had taken, and disband their Troops; and that the seven Circles of the Empire should furnish five Millions of Rixdollars for the Pay of the Swedish Soldiers." Such were the Conditions of this Peace, which was not very advantageous to the Catholic Religion.

The Bishop who had the See of Munster while I was there, was of the Family of Metternich, and at the same time Bishop of Paderborn. I did not stay long in that City, but proceeded thro' Dusseldorff, where I found the whole Court return'd from Francfort.

From thence I set out for Cologne [35], where M. Happe who was appointed by the King to levy the Contributions which Luxembourg and other neighbouring Countries were oblig'd to pay, entertain'd me very civilly, gave me an Apartment at his House, and made me exceeding welcome.

I stay'd some time in this City, which is a very flourishing Town by reason of its convenient Situation for the Trade of their Merchants, who have great Vessels constantly going up and down the Rhine, to Francfort and Holland. 'Tis a pretty large City, but always very dirty and ill pav'd, and the Houses are for most part very old, and consequently dark and incommodious. The City is governed by a Senate, which does not depend on the Elector, whose Power is very much limited, he having no Authority but in Criminal Affairs; yet he is allow'd Sovereign Command for three Days, after which if he stays at Cologne he is no more regarded than a private Gentleman. This is the reason that the Prince commonly resides at Bonn, and that he only goes to Cologne on the Eves of the Grand Festivals, to officiate there. Nevertheless the City is oblig'd to pay Homage to the Elector, and to swear Fidelity to him, on Condition that he preserve them in the Enjoyment of their Privileges; which is a Condition that the Elector can scarce violate were he ever so much inclin'd to it, because 'tis the City that maintains the Garison, and is Mistress of the Arsenal.