Curds sweetened with sugar.
Chevèlle
U.S.A.
A processed Wisconsin.
Chèvre see Fromages.
Chèvre de Chateauroux see Fromages.
Chèvre petit see Petìts Fromages.
Chèvre, Tome de see Tome.
Chevretin
Savoy, France
Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are.
Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy
Bresse & Franche-Comté, France
Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in France.
Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème,
les
Lyonnais, France
Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.
Chevrotins
Savoy, France
Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and eaten from March to December.
Chhana
Asia
All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name.
Chiavari
Italy
There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region,
and both are hard:
I. Sour cow's milk, also
known as Cacio Romano.
II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari,
the
historic little port between
Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the
birthplace of the barbaric
"chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with
its raucous serenade of
dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.
Chives cream cheese
Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (See both.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before.
Christalinna
Canton Graubünden, Switzerland
Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.
Christian IX
Denmark
A distinguished spiced cheese.
Ciclo
Italy
Soft, small cream cheese.
Cierp de Luchon
France
Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the distinction of being the only local product worth listing with France's three hundred notables.
Citeaux
Burgundy, France
Trappist Port-Salut.
Clabber cheese
England
Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber.
Clairvaux
France
Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.
Claqueret, le
Lyonnais, France
Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. See Chives.
Clérimbert see Alpin.
Cleves
France
French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original.
Cloves see Nagelkäse.
Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted
cheese
U.S.A. and Canada
Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now all-American.
Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. All are described as "tangy."
Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy."
Cocktail Cheeses
Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" stores:
Argentine aged Gruyère
Canadian d'Oka
French Bleu
Brie
Camembert
Fontainebleu
Pont l'Evêque
Port du Salut
Roblochon
Roquefort
Grecian Feta
Hungarian Brinza
Polish Warshawski Syr
Rumanian Kaskaval
Swiss Schweizerkäse
American Cheddar in brandy
Hopi Indian
Coeur à la Crème
Burgundy, France
This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (see) when served with sugar, and it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket.
Coeurs d'Arras
Artois, France
These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with the cream of Arras.
Coffee-flavored cheese
Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor.
Coimbra
Portugal
Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center.
Colby
U.S.A.
Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar.
College-educated
Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of Emmentaler.
Colwick see Slipcote.
Combe-air
France
Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size.
Commission
Holland
Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor.
Compiègne
France
Soft
Comté see Gruyère.
Conches
France
Emmentaler type.
Condrieu, Rigotte de la
Rhone Valley below Lyons, France
Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is rich.
Confits au Marc de Bourgogne see Epoisses.
Confits au Vin Blanc see Epoisses.
Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot
U.S.A.
Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned out.
All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following:
Belgium—Kochtounkäse
Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen
Luxembourg—Kochenkäse
France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux
Sardinia—Pannedas, Freisa
Coon see Chapter 4.
Cornhusker
U.S.A.
A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body and more moisture.
A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.
Corse, Roquefort de
Corsica, France
Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of course.
Cossack
Caucasus
Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in
brine and still soft and mild after two months in
the salt bath.
II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or
more.
Cotherstone
Yorkshire, England
Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (See both.)
Cotrone, Cotronese see Pecorino.
Cotta see Pasta.
Cottage cheese
Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.
Cottenham or Double Cottenham
English Midlands
Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.
A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.
Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule
Ile-de-France, France
Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (See.)
Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers
France
Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of American summer tourists.
Cow cheese
Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese.
Cream cheese
International
England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries—especially the small wild strawberries of rural England—taste out of this world. It is also drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small molds. (See Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands:
Cambridge
Cottslowe
Cornwall
Farm Vale
Guilford
Homer's
"Italian"
Lincoln
New Forest
Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats—see
Rush)
St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus
bacteria)
Scotch Caledonian
Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)
Victoria
York
Crème Chantilly see Hablé.
Crème de Gien see Fromage.
Crème de Gruyère
Franche-Comté France
Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it.
Crème des Vosges
Alsace, France
Soft cream. Season October to April.
Crème Double see Double-Crème.
Crème, Fromage à la see Fromage.
Crème, Fromage Blanc à la see Fromage Blanc.
Crème St Gervais see Pots de Crème St Gervais.
Crèmet Nantais
Lower Loire, France
Soft fresh cream of Nantes.
A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and sugar.
Cremini
Italy
Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything.
Creole
Louisiana, U.S.A.
Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type curd and rich cream.
Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza
Lombardi
Lombardy, Italy
Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.
Creuse
Creuse, France
A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two
different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed
from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five
or six inches high, where it has drained for several
days:
I. It is salted and turned
frequently until very dry and hard.
II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined
with straw.
This softens, flavors, and
turns it golden-yellow. (See Hay
or Fromage de
Foin.)
Creusois, or Guéret
Limousin, France
Season, October to June.
Croissant Demi-sel
France
Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.
Crottin de Chavignol
Berry, France
Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April to December. The name is not exactly complimentary.
Crowdie, or Cruddy butter
Scotland
Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration.
Crying Kebbuck
F. Marion MacNeill, in The Scots Kitchen says that this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in.
Cuajada see Venezuela.
Cubjac see Cajassou.
Cuit see Fromage Cuit.
Cumin, Münster au see Münster.
Cup see Koppen.
Curd see Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd.
Curds and butter
Arabia
Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee.
Curé, Fromage de see Nantais.
Daisies, fresh
A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use for seasoning.
Dalmatian
Austria
Hard ewe's-milker.
Dambo
Denmark
Semihard and nutty.
Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des
Montagnes)
Hungary
Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon.
Danish Blue
Denmark
Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser Blues.
Danish Export
Denmark
Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.
Dansk Schweizerost
Denmark
Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called.
Danzig
Poland
A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city.
One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston.
Dauphin
Flanders, France
Season, November to May.
d'Aurigny, Fromage see Alderney.
Daventry
England
A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" veins of a darker green.
Decize
Nivernaise, France
In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie.
de Foin, Fromage see Hay.
de Fontine
Spain
Crumbly, sharp, nutty.
de Gascony, Fromage see Castillon.
de Gérardmer see Récollet.
Delft
Holland
About the same as Leyden. (See.)
Délicieux
The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.
Delikat
U.S.A.
A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück original. (See.)
de Lile, Boule
French name for Belgian Oude Kaas.
Demi-Étuve
Half-size Étuve. (See.)
Demi Petit Suisse
The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the Gros.
Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier.
Demi-Sel, Croissant see Croissant Demi-Sel.
Derby, or Derbyshire
England
Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name.
Devonshire cream and cheese
England
Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay cheese.
Dolce Verde
Italy
This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the green-blues.
Domaci Beli Sir
Yugoslavia
"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.
Domestic Gruyère
U.S.A.
An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.
Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country.
Domiati
Egypt
Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East.
Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue
Vinny
England
Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that." (See Blue Vinny.)
Dotter
Nürnberg, Germany
An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is splendid.
Doubles
The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.
Double-cream
England
Similar to Wensleydale.
Double-crème
France
There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la Double-crème, and Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand.
Dresdener Bierkäse
Germany
A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as merely eaten.
Drinking cheeses
Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.
Dry
Germany
From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 608.)
Duel
Austria
Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.
Dunlop
Scotland
One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown.
Durak
Turkey
Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound.
Duralag, or Bgug-Panir
Armenia
Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days to two months.
Durmar, Rarush see Rarush.
Dutch
Holland
Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.
Dutch cheese
American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.
Dutch Cream Cheese
England
Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer.
Dutch Mill
U.S.A.
A specialty of Oakland, California.
Dutch Red Balls
English name for Edam.
Echourgnac, Trappe d'
Périgord, France
Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.
Edam see Chapter 3.
Egg
Finland
Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.
Elbinger, or Elbing
West Prussia
Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse.
Ekiwani
Caucasus
Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed in.
Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani
Caucasus
Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales.
Elmo Table
Italy
Soft, mellow, tasty.
Emiliano
Italy
Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.
There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (See Chapter 3, also Vacherin Fondu.)
"En enveloppe"
French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly as nu, "in the nude."
Engadine
Graubünden, Switzerland
Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.
English Dairy
England and U.S.A.
Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese.
Entrechaux, le Cachat d' see Cachat.
Epoisses, Fromage d'
Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France
Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or marc to d'Epoisses in making confits with that name.
Erbo
Italy
Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores.
Erce
Languedoc, France
Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November to May.
Eriwani see Elisavetpolen.
Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May.
Essex
U.S.A.
Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type.
Estrella see Serra da Estrella.
Étuve and Demi-Étuve
Holland
Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season all year.
Evarglice
Yugoslavia
Sharp, nutty flavor.
Excelsior
Normandy, France
Season all year.
Factory Cheddar
U.S.A.
Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that—mild, young and tractable—too tractable, in fact.
Farm
France
Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese.
Farmer
U.S.A.
This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the oven.
Farmhouse see Herrgårdsost.
Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, eight to a box.
Fat cheese see Frontage Gras and Maile Pener.
Fenouil see Tome de Savoie.
Ferme see Farm.
Feta see Chapter 3.
Feuille de Dreux
Béarn, France
November to May.
"Filled cheese"
England
Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up coagulation.
Fin de Siècle
Normandy, France
Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.
Fiore di Alpe
Italy
Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps."
Fiore Sardo
Italy
Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully cured.
A kind of Marolles.
Fleur de Deauville
France
A type of Brie, in season December to May.
Fleur des Alpes see Bel Paese and Millefiori.
Floedeost
Norway
Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk.
Fløtost
Norway
Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.
Flower
England
Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except bean curd.
Fodder cheese
A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes.
Foggiano
Apulia, Italy
A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk.
Foin, Fromage de see Hay.
Fondu, Vacherin see Vacherin Fondu.
Fontainebleau
France
Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; summer variety.
Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma.
Fontine, de
Franche-Comté, France
A favorite all-year product.
Fontinelli
Italy
Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.
Fontini
Parma, Italy
Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same region as Parmesan.
Food cheese
U.S.A.
An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese content to flavor it.
Forez, also called d'Ambert
France
The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From Bulletin No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this alphabet.)
Formagelle
Northwest Italy
Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.
Formaggi di Pasta Filata
Italy
A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group.
Formaggini, and Formaggini di
Lecco
Italy
Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1¼ by two inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.
Formaggio d'Oro
Northwest Italy
Hard, sharp, mountain-made.
Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero see Nostrale.
Fort see Fromage Fort.
Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome
Auvergne, France
This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (See Fourme d'Ambert and Cantal.)
Fourme de Montebrison
Auvergne, France
This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May.
Fourme de Salers see Cantal, which it resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.
Fresa, or Pannedas
Sardinia, Italy
A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.
Fribourg
Italy and Switzerland
Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (See)
Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese
Holland
Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is made in winter, beginning in November.
Friesian see West Friesian.
I. Sour milk drained and
mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of
Gien is a noted produce, and
so is d'Isigny.
II.
Franche-Comté—fresh sheep milk melted with fresh
thick cream,
whipped egg whites and
sugar.
III. Morvan—homemade cottage cheese. When milk has
soured solid it is
hung in cheesecloth in a
cool place to drain, then mixed with a
little fresh milk and served
with cream.
IV. When Morvan or other
type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket
for a mold, and marketed in
that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,
heart of cream, to be eaten
with sugar.
Fromage à la Pie see Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm
Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille
France
Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after Bavaria where it probably originated.
Fromage Blanc
France
Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and called Fromage Blanc à la Crème.
Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also called Fromage de Curé. Other districts devoted to it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France.
Fromage Bleu see Bleu d'Auvergne.
Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)
Thionville, Lorraine, France
Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted.
Fromage d'Aurigny see Alderney.
Fromage de Bayonne
Bayonne, France
Made with ewe's milk.
Fromage de Bôite
Doubs, France
Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque.
Fromage de Bourgogne
see Burgundy.
Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux
Berry, France
A seasonal goat cheese.
Fromage de Curé see Nantais.
Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté
Poitou, France
Half goat and half cow milk.
Fromage de Gascony see Castillon.
Fromage de Pau see La Foncée.
Fromage de St. Rémy see Chevrets.
Fromage de Serac
Savoy, France
Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.
Fromage de Troyes
France
Two cheeses have this name. (See Barberry and Ervy.)
Fromage de Vache
Another name for Autun.
Fromage de Monsieur Fromage
Normandy, France
This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.
Fromage Fort
France
Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before fermenting some more.
Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all France.
Fort No. I: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine.
Fort No. II: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (See Hazebrook.)
Fort No. III: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated.
Fromage Gras (fat cheese)
Savoy, France
Soft, round, fat ball called tête de mort, "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these lines: