General description & tips for on Playstation. Jap version revise here. Written on Jul/Aug/Sep-2001. 1st update on Dec-2001, Jan/Feb/Mar-2002 2nd update on May/Nov/Dec-2002, Jan/Apr/May-2003. By Kurapica. {Please note that I write in internet language; do not mistake this 4 poor English} ***** [Foreword] I never saw the Jap version of Panzer Front, which was release on 1999, but I had c an English Panzer Front after I got Bis. Which is the 1st game, while this is the 2nd of the series. I feel this game is an excellent tank simulator; with very intense action n fighting, the game is also very fast paced (consider a tank game it is fast). Although it uses simplified controls, but is still a simulator in heart. The best way 2 feel the tanks clash-of-armour, besides fight with the real thing, is only through simulator. But tank simulators base on WW2 are rare even on IBM, not 2 mention on PSX. Most of the other tank games are either strategy cum war games or simply 2D/3D shoot-em-up, not really simulator. So this game is a rare gem 4 fans of this category. Maybe I can even call it Tank Turismo. ^_^ The graphic of all tanks are beautifully done, very detailed; however its overall graphics n the 3D environments are not as good as Grand Turismo (if initially it could license the GT2 graphic engine instead…). The game physics, however, is good. I don't know does this game means 2 create as realistic as real 1 or not, but I felt which is realistic enough. The developer had also put in a lot of attention into details, so u can notice many details in small areas. The AI of either side are not stupid. The controls are also simple n straight. During play, this game has dense atmosphere n immersion. It will draw u in, u shall feel the surrounding atmosphere n tension - the feeling that u are really there! U don’t just simply play a game, but has 2 really fight 4 victory or your life. I'm not going 2 put up an inch-by-inch walkthrough, just description of game & hints. To overcome the various missions, u can try it yourself by using different combinations n tactics. ***** > The Tank select mode is base on 6 imaginary tanks. If u prefer real tanks like me, go 2 Tactic mode. > The 2nd game has included a construction & story mode. I tried story mode a bit, which is base on German side. It seems like it tells a panzer commander whom had been possessed by *something* n thus fought 4 the Reich. The construction mode can’t build tanks & terrain from scratch, but only let u design your own battle field layout n put available units into it. It is useful but I didn't build a thing. Try it yourself. > U can switch any tanks in tactic mode, just point 2 their name then choose from the list. We can even place tanks of different countries into any side, now talk about mix-n-match. However we can only choose those tanks which were readily available by that period (not all are selectable). But doing so the high scores will not be saved though. > Press shoulder buttons of joypad can manipulate the map by enlarge, reduce or tilt them. When the map has enlarge & tilt 2 the max, u can study the elevation of terrain. This up & down of terrain can be important on some missions cos u can take advantage of such terrain. > On tactical map, the coloured units are: Red= enemies Pale blue= yourself Blue= your units Green= uncontrollable units > On actual battle field, the different coloured markers indicate their position. Those with lighter colours mean they're further away (any side) than brighter coloured. This game will display their range when they’re within 2Km. Actually the distance that this game display is inaccurate, they are always too large. The maps are probably miniaturized in scale 2 reflect this; I guess the scale are miniaturized about 1:15 to 1:20 in size. > The 3 difficulty setting in option screen although doesn't feel much different except changing the controls n parameters, but it'll somehow affect the game play. Example - in rookie or veteran difficulty, u can switch ammo on the fly. But in ace mode, every switch will need 2 reload again. The others will mention later. > If u set the tanks as damageable in option, then besides blown out, the tank can be damaged. They are: - Gun= can't fire main gun. Better replay instead. - Tracks= the tank can't move anymore. I had notice that once any track is damaged, then after certain time, that injured tank (excluding myself) will be grey out on map n die. I guess which is due 2 mechanical breakdowns. But I can't figure out how 2 specifically crippled a tank's track. - Turret= turret can't rotate. Not that serious, albeit now u have 2 rotate the entire tank 2 aim. - Engine= I never encounter this so don’t know what will happen. > If u play as rookie or veteran difficulty, then MG=machine gun, AP=armor piercing round, HE=high explosive & HEAT= high explosive anti-tank round. APCR/HVAP is a variant of AP, but seems like it is more powerful than normal AP at close range while becoming weaker than AP at further distance. On a German Panzer IV with 75mm length 48 calibers gun, probably the effective range of APCR will decrease after 1Km; on a German 88mm gun, it will still be effective within 2Km, but may decrease after that. HEAT may not be affected by range. > Knowing the capabilities of different tanks can be helpful. Do the research if u wish. What I find useful 4 this game are: - Armor thickness of individual tank. Their front, flank & rear; sloped or rounded is even better. - AP firepower of main gun, u need this against enemy tanks. - Maximum ammos carried. - Speed n weight. > U can tell the remaining ammos of your blue units by looking 8 their numbers in parenthesis. But u can never know the remaining ammos of green units or enemies. > U can control up to 3 other blue units. If u need all of them 2 follow, use the formation command. If not, use the formation command 1st, then plot the waypoint 4 individual unit 2 move; or give it a defend command (don't do in reverse way). > On tactical map, u can move your blue units by Movement command, it came with four speed settings. Sometimes u may not need 2 move them that fast 4 special purposes. 1 thing to point out is that your blue/green comrade vehicles are frequently slower than yours. The formation command will make them greatly lag behind u, but is much easier 2 use. Plotting their individual waypoint will cause them respond faster, but still not as fast as your own vehicle. > When u issue a Move command, however, if that unit encounter enemies within its gun range, it will frequently stop n engage them 1st thus ceasing its movement (or refuse 2 move 8 all). Sometimes this is clever act but most time will only cause trouble by disobeying order. In this case, if their speed are set at 1 or 2, they will mostly stop 2 engage enemies so completely ignore your order; if u set their speed to 3 or 4, then they may resume their route but do not always work. > The blue & green units tend 2 fire at enemies when they're within their gun range but still far away (or they may fired at undesired targets). This waste up some ammos but pity this game had no Hold fire command. :-( Although this game does provide a ‘Fire by signal’ command, but it doesn’t work the way I want. So my only way 2 offset this so as 2 conserve their ammos is either let my blue units unmoved, or let it drive slowly so by the time they arrive, they can be put into better use. > The ‘Fire point’ command can order those blue units 2 fire 8 the designated location. Sometime it will only fire once then will return 2 its original state, or may keep firing several times. > When your other blue & green units fight on their own, usually they will fire 8 any targets that they spot on horizon; then shoot 8 those targets which are closest 2 them, then pick the next closest. When doing so they will frequently rotate the entire tank n turret 2 face the opponents. When facing multiple targets by their own, they will pick the closest target 1st. Usually infantry will be their last priority, even if those infantries are closer. > On battle field, units have different use. Their purposes n the way 2 handle them are describe below -> Tanks= most important unit, star of this game. U have 2 engage/manipulate them. Use AP or HEAT rounds 2 destroy them; but sometimes HE will also work if your gun is big enough (I ever use HE to pick off the flank of several German assault gun by a Sherman 76mm gun; or even a T-34/85 head on by HE of a King Tiger). Tanks on your side can be your spotter. Infantries= cannon fodders. But some missions require them 2 capture or defend certain territory. They can be your prying eyes on map. Can be killed by HE or MG. AT Gun= dangerous 2 tanks, may not harm infantry (some can fire HE as well). Use HE or MG 2 smashes it. Fire point= can fire AP or MG or sometimes both. Those fires AP will threaten tanks. The MG type can kill infantry. Fire HE rounds 2 blow them up or simply roll over them if it is a soft type. Also can be your prying eyes. Plane= Fire MG then drop bomb on your head, they have good chance of hitting. When they show up they will pick random targets, so bunkers n infantries will probably be their targets too! No way 2 handle them. > AT Guns have a limited traverse angles. So if u can approach them from other directions instead of head on, they can’t fire 8 u cos which is out of their movement. Exception is German Flak 88, which is fully rotateable. Bunkers may capable of firing all around too. > On some scenarios like Petrowka & Seelow, the enemy will keep firing heavy artillery n this rain won't stop. A hit will kill any tank; very irritating! On such missions, those artilleries even come with homing effect, so they will always follow u or other units whenever u go! Let’s hope they don’t hit u. > Move 2 supply zone 2 rearm or reshuffle your ammos. If u place a blue unit on it permanently then it will gain infinite ammo. However it can’t repair any damage. > Just like real tanks, tanks are thicker on armor 8 front while thinner 8 flank n rear. So unless surrounded, always keep your front 2 enemies. > If u need 2 move your blue unit while it is still busily engaging enemies, it is better 2 use the Move backwards command instead of Movement (but only if it complies). Albeit this will be slower in speed, but is safer than exposing their ass while turning away. > On some scenarios, u shall receive reinforcement tanks. The reinforcement is actually base on a certain tank of your unit. E.g. - if your certain tank is an assault gun, then the back up will also be assault gun; or if a particular tank is a Hetzer, then the back up will also be Hetzer. So if u try mix-n-match, changing that default tank will alter all the reinforcements. > U can try 2 park your tank 8 slightly lower land or much higher ground 2 intercept opponents. On 1st case, with only gun or turret protruded, your tank will be less exposed 2 enemies fire. On 2nd case, the AP may drop on their roof whereas which is vulnerable. > Smoke bomb can be helpful at times (but pity USSR tanks don’t have smoke). I use it on two ways: - Fires a smoke bomb 2 obstruct enemies vision when in danger (especially if its main gun can kill me). - If target is still far away 4 my gun while it can kills me instead, fires smoke 2 confuse it until it moves into my kill zone or vice versa. > Ambush is not easy in this game cos most times the enemies will quickly discover u, but it is still possible 2 approach an enemy undetected. If u come out from a sneaky position or under cover of smoke, if the enemy ahead is visible but no red cursor shown, or the cursor doesn’t display any number, then it hasn’t discover u yet so will not react. > I found out several tricks on using smoke 2 hide from enemy: - Fire a smoke ahead, then go straight through only HALF of it, but use binocular/gun view when doing so until the enemy is visible through binocular. Usually some portion of your tank will still be covered, but this will not alert the enemy so u can get a clear yet safety shot. - Fire two smokes closely in pair so leaving a gap, then park 8 the gap between them, u can c him like this but he can’t c u. - Or keep firing a series of smoke ahead so u can drive behind enemy tank, then shoot his ass (pretty dangerous move). In most cases, the enemies usually won’t react 8 all. > Do u feel your main gun isn't effective enough in this game? I thought so initially. While the German 88mm gun was known 2 blow away enemies at beyond 2Km; my King Tiger, with its long 88mm can't even destroy a M10 at 500m easily. The main points are due 2 their sloped armor n the way u aim. Explain below. > Aiming= the trick here is 2 aim higher. The physic is accurate so only if u aims higher, then the AP will hit the intended location. I guess the trajectory of fired rounds are flying in arc, so only by aiming higher, it will reach targets. Instead if u only aims parallel 2 target, say a tank at 1500m, the fired shot will lose kinetic energy then drop 2 ground. So unless u are 8 kissing range, always aim HIGHER. Play as ace difficulty must aim even higher than veteran. Basically, the weaker the main gun or the further away the target is, the higher u aim! Using this trick, my King Tiger could smash a T34/85 at 1500m, M4 Sherman at 1600m n once a T34/85 at beyond 2Km. Wow! > Armour= any sloped armour will make the penetration more difficult. If it is both slanted & sloped 8 a steep angle then u can hardly nail it. When I drove my Tiger I, fire at a T34/85 which was approaching fast at 800m->1Km, heading SE from my location. By this bearing, its hull was position at about 45º to my gun. I fired several shots, but by this angle its steeply slanted & sloped hull kept deflect away my AP. Same thing if the shell only hit the edge of its rounded turret. Now that's physic. > Also a fast moving target if it moves sideway instead of head on also has a chance 2 deflect the AP. Like a fast T34, if it moves toward 3 or 9 o'clock may also cause the shots 2 bounce off. Also lead shooting will be required. I had several such experiences. When I tried 2 shoot those T-34/76 by my Tiger I, the firepower of Tiger’s 88 was suppose 2 be enough 2 knock them out, even their sloped front hull. However in truth, the AP just couldn’t penetrate if those T-34 are angled like I mention above even 8 close range, especially if they are still moving. Sometimes the AP will still bounce off although I did score a straight hit on their front hull - if they are still moving! So at times I could only kill them when they are completely idle or choose 2 aim their turret instead. > But we can use the same trick ourselves. Some tanks like the German Panzer III/IV & Tiger I just do not have sloped armour. If the frontal armour can't withstand enemies fire, then try this trick. 1st, park the tank head on towards enemy, then turn about 30º, lastly rotate the turret 2 engage it. This will create an angular & slanted hull on your tank (or try approaching diagonally). Let's hope by align it this way, the enemy's incoming AP will hit the hull (not turret) n bounce off. > From my experience, turret is easier 2 penetrate than sloped hull. Otherwise the gun mantle of turret is usually thicker. Some are even very much thicker. I still suggest aim 8 turret in this case. But 1 tip, some tanks its frontal underbelly can be weak as well. So if u find your Panzer IV can’t penetrate the sloped front of a M4 Sherman or M4A1, try 2 aim 8 its lower half is another good choice, especially 8 short range. > The rotation of binocular & gun view is slower than exterior view. So if trying 2 aim a moving tank 8 close range when it rolls pass quickly, it is faster 2 rotate the entire tank 2 track it instead of just turret movement. > Some bad terrain like soft bog or snow will greatly slow down the speed. This works especially true 2 heavy tanks. This is very dangerous when being surrounded while the rotation n speed has slowed down. But USSR tanks, with their lower ground pressure n wider tracks have advantage over this. > As above, when stay on such bad terrain but the speed 2 move or turn will become very, very slow. If the tank is stationary, then the fastest way 2 move it n turn altogether 8 the same time is: - press move forward 4 about a second, then let go of 1 track to let it turn. This will enables the tank 2 move n turn all 8 the same time. The tank can also kicks into higher gear ratio quicker if doing so. > During the play back moment of a tank's destruction, the replay angle of the initial "coming in" is where the AP came from. So by looking 8 the play back screen, u can tell what direction the AP came from n possibly who did this. Plus your units will also report their kill. > After completing a mission, the game will ask u 2 save the score only if your current score is HIGHER than previous 1. > The way this game calculates your score is probably base on these factors (I’m not sure)… - No. of enemy units destroyed (AT guns, bunkers, infantries, tanks). The more u do it yourself, the better. - No. of units lost (penalty). - No. of AP fired n hit percentage. HE does not count but HEAT will. - No. of hits taken. - Time used. ******* Below is my comment of some tanks. Please note that due 2 the fact that this is a game, so the pros & cons of some tanks are not entirely reflected. Like the durability/reliability of Panzer III/IV, or the engine/gear/transmission problems of Panther & Tiger are not featured. All armours I mention below unless specify are refer 2 frontal armour. Panzer III= not spectacular. Not fast enough 4 a medium tank. The armour neither thick enough nor sloped (except the side of turret). The Pak 38 50L60 gun of Ausf J & 75L24 gun of Ausf N is OK 4 its time, but can’t destroy T-34 easily. None of them can really cope much against T-34, so is OK as a medium tank but definitely not top class. Panzer IV= same. But some versions like the Ausf H came with a Pak 40 75L48 gun which is effective. So u can kill enemies while it is still far away b4 it gets u, otherwise this tank can’t take much hit by itself. StuG III= this German assault gun, especially the G version, came with sloped frontal armour plus a Stuk 40. Its low hull also makes it a hard target. Efficient; even 8 late stage of war. But the E type is much weaker in armour n gun, plus it also carries less ammos so isn’t of much use. Jadg Panzer IV= either equips a Kwk 40 75L48 or Kwk 42 75L70 so is strong in fire power. Its two large glacis plate 8 front n low hull can dodge many shots. Actually is pretty good, its exterior was also cleaner than StuG III/IV. The 70(V) version is slower n carry less ammos though. Horniness, Marder & Nashorn= a self-propelled gun I think. Better use 4 defense or support fire only. Get killed easily. As tank destroyer they are not really up 2 the task. Hetzer= not fast enough 4 a light tank class n its flank is also thin. But the entire tank is very compact yet sloppy, with its overall sloped armour, low silhouette n smallness make it a hard target. Its Pak 39 75L48 still packs a punch. A good light tank. Panther= rather fast & maneuverable. The Kwk 42 75mm gun is also a good gun so it can shoot enemies from long range. All armour n turret are sloped (albeit its flank is weaker). It was the German’s most balanced tank. Nice 2 use. Jadg Panther= similar as Panther but with whole piece of glacis plate 8 front so is better 8 deflecting AP. It comes with a more powerful Pak 43. However the chassic is not low enough plus its hull has extend too high, so it becomes an even bigger target than Panther. Elefant= very slow. Not sloped n rather tall but fortunately its armour can withstand most fire. The Pak 43 88L71 is very, very hard hitting. But the overall performance is a mix bag. Tiger I= average, no sloped armour but the Kwk 36 88L56 gun is strong. The speed is OK as a heavy tank of such weight, actually it is still faster than other heavy tanks class of lighter weight. King Tiger= big, slow n tall make it an easy target. But overall is sloped in armour like Panther (although its turret was oversized); with its thick armour n Pak 43 made it nearly invincible. Just don't get surrounded. Jadg Tiger= very big n slow. Although its Pak 44 128mm gun can fire big HE, but its AP firepower probably is weaker than Pak 43 due to shorter gun barrel length; plus it can only carry 50+ ammos n the loading is so slooowww. Not much use. Maus= same as above plus very, very slow. But is supra thick n its oversized turret can carry 100+ ammos though (including co-axial gun ammos). Not a good design. T34/76= fast, nimble n overall sloppy armour made it hard 2 destroy while moving. No wonder it caused so much damage 2 German. The T-34 series was the best tank of WW2, if only it could improve its frontal armour n gun… T34/85= same but comes with a larger turret n better gun. Now it can kill a Tiger I head on, but the loading is also slower; better gave it a British 17 pounder instead. T60= a light tank with glacis plate 8 front n rear. But as a light tank neither its speed nor turning is fast enough. However is good against AT gun or infantry in this game. T70= similar to T60 but a bit bigger, taller n thicker. Its frontal glacis plate can help deflect some AP; the 45mm gun is capable of destroying a weak medium tank. Not as good as Hetzer but as a light tank it is doing its job. KV1= slow heavy tank. Although it is overall thicker than Tiger I, but is also slower n the 76mm gun just can’t cope up with its stature. Not outstanding, but if it could equip something similar to 88 then it can be an USSR Tiger. JS2= a heavy tank comes with a 122mm gun but is low on ammos n very slow on reload, however its gun maybe is weaker in AP than German 88. The hull is however low enough n can’t easily be penetrated. A German 75L48 gun can only nail this tank head on if it scores a hit on its turret, n also only 8 pretty close range. JS2m= similar but with a whole glacis plate 8 front instead of collar. Its frontal armour is so hard 2 penetrate 4 my King Tiger even 8 kissing range. Pose a serious threat to Panther & Tiger I. JS3= excellent heavy tank. All armours are sloped, with a V-shaped frontal glacis plate, a very low yet round turret plus a rather low hull. This thing is just impossible 2 destroy from front. Despite some drawbacks, probably the best design around (together with T-34, which is more balanced). SU85= the chassic of T34 with turret removed 2 convert into assault gun. Yet it still retains the characteristic of T34. Now it has the mobility & speed of T34, firepower n low hull… SU152= a heavy tank comes with a very big howitzer, so its massive gun can be scary enough… M4 Sherman= not as good as T34 n the superstructure is high. The 75mm gun although not good enough by its time, but still can be of some use if it fires APCR instead. M4A1= it is better armoured plus an enlarged turret. The 76mm gun packs a punch, watch out! M4A3= Sherman with an even larger turret which is overall thickly armoured. However it is also slower n the gun isn’t big enough. An US KV-1? Or it tries 2 be an US Tiger? M5= a light tank modify from M3 staurt with a glacis plate 8 front. M10= a medium tank with good design. Overall sloped in armour, with a sleek turret n is also fast. Its 76mm gun is also strong. Better than Panzer IV. T26 Pershing= a tank with similar looks as those Vietnam era US tanks. Actually with its frontal glacis plate, low hull n powerful 90mm gun makes it outstanding enough. Beside a tad slow, I don’t find any weakness with it in this game. Churchill= very slow but thick. Even a Panther or Tiger I also had trouble 2 nail it from front by plain AP. Cromwell= better than Panzer IV in many respects n is very fast. The 75mm gun is the only weak point when Vs a Panzer IV. Firefly= Sherman fitted with a 17 pounder gun. This 76mm gun really packs a wallop. It can blows away many German heavy tanks head on. What I had experienced were Elefant, Jadg Panther, Maus, Panther & Tiger I. Get it b4 it gets u. Type 1 Chi= nearly the specification of medium tank, but only with armour n firepower of a light tank. Maybe is equivalent 2 a Panzer III, but is utterly obsolete by 1945 standard considering its design n firepower. Even worse than USSR T-70. Type 3 Chi= same but comes with a bigger turret thus enables it 2 equip a 75mm gun. Although still looks dated n pretty weak; but consider its small size, maybe wasn’t so bad. Type 4 Chi= a bigger tank with thicker armour. It also has a sleeker turret n the barrel of the 75mm gun is longer. Perhaps it can put up a better fight. The other imaginary tanks are probably better than these WW2 tanks. Use them may make an easier game. T80= a tank looks like a large Playstation. The hull is very low n the turret is also very flat. This creates a very low silhouette thus making it a hard target. Type 90= fast n very responsive. But since all of its armours are of vertical design, so it can only rely on its natural composite armour 4 defence. This will be OK if its armour is tough enough 2 withstand enemies fire; but from my playing experience Vs those T80, it isn’t. Looks a bit like M1 Abrams. ******* The difficulty of those built in missions vary. On some missions, 2 win will requires careful manipulation n planning (plus some luck); or use your other units as decoy or expendable assets. Otherwise just keep trying or use different tactics. There is actually no fix way 2 play this game so I don’t write any walkthrough. On the case of 1st time player, I suggest start as a German. Most of the German heavy tanks are thick enough 2 withstand enemies fire n their firepower can blow away oppositions from long range. Their biggest threats are too many enemies keep flooding in, even from different directions so can quickly get overwhelmed. Otherwise u can have a good practice in shooting from afar (spell as safety range). ******* P.s. I don't know is there any cheats in this game or not.