Bigfoot FAQ/Walkthrough By Jason Venter Thank you for choosing my FAQ. I work hard to ensure that each FAQ I write provides useful information in a pleasant and intuitive format. Also, I like both cheese and pickles a great deal. You will find contact, legal and copyright information at the end of this FAQ. =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= TABLE OF CONTENTS =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= The table of contents is your friend. Each segment listed below is followed by a bracketed alpha-numeric code. If you're using a Microsoft word processing program, press CTRL+F (on an Apple, it's COMMAND+F) and enter the code within the brackets to skip to the corresponding section of the FAQ in a flash. {C0002} AUTHOR'S NOTES {C0003} REVISION HISTORY {G0001} GAME MECHANICS {G1001} GAME CONTROLS {G1002} ITEM DESCRIPTIONS {G1003} VEHICLE UPGRADES {W0001} WALKTHROUGH {W1001} RACE TO MESA {W1002} MESA CAR CRUNCH {W1003} RACE TO RENO {W1004} RENO MUD RACE {W1005} RACE TO YAKIMA {W1006} YAKIMA HILL CLIMB {W1007} RACE TO FARGO {W1008} FARGO TRACTOR PULL {W1009} RACE TO PUEBLO {W1010} PUEBLO CAR CRUNCH {W1011} RACE TO TULSA {W1012} TULSA TRACTOR PULL {W1013} RACE TO JACKSON {W1014} JACKSON HILL CLIMB {W1015} RACE TO UNION {W1016} UNION MUD RACE {W1017} RACE TO NEW YORK {W1018} NEW YORK DRAG RACE {C0004} FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS {C0005} ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS {C0006} CONTACT/COPYRIGHT/LEGAL =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= AUTHOR'S NOTES {C0002} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= Bigfoot is a great game on the NES, though it's one that not everyone is going to enjoy playing. These days, one reason they might not play is that they simply don't understand the game's flow. This FAQ and Walkthrough will remedy that issue. I'll tell you how the control's work, give you an idea of the game's general flow and items, and give you the strategies you need to play through the game from start to finish. More people should play and enjoy this game, and perhaps after reading this FAQ they will. =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= REVISION HISTORY {C0003} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= April 27, 2007 I began and finished the first draft of my FAQ for the NES Completion Project over on GameFAQs. I consider it complete now, unless someone submits something else I just can't resist adding. I was surprised to find that one of my favorite games on the system didn't have any available content. =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= GAME MECHANICS {G0001} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= Bigfoot works in a fairly simple fashion. Your goal is to drive to competitions around the United States, starting in Los Angeles and concluding in New York. Half of the game's stages take place from an overhead perspective. You race against your competitor while avoiding obstacles and collecting power-ups and cash. Whoever gets to the finish line first gets a special cash prize. From there, you'll compete in one of several events that also has a cash prize on the line. Those events are viewed from a side perspective. Before you compete, you get to spend your money on upgrades for your vehicle in one of four areas. The winner of the event in question gets more money. Then it's back to an overhead stage. You win Bigfoot by reaching the final competition and finishing with more cash than your competitor. You lose if you go broke. If your opponent goes broke, someone steps in to carry the torch (and his winnings total doesn't change). Therefore, this is a case of survival of the fittest. --------------------- GAME CONTROLS {G1001} --------------------- The NES controller only has a few options, and the game's developers had some pretty big ambitions. As a result, you won't be controlling Bigfoot the way you might expect. There are two unique perspectives in the game. Below, you'll find the control scheme for each perspective. OVERHEAD RACES: D-PAD - Steer B - Special Item A - Turbo Boost START - Pause SIDE PERSPECTIVE: D-PAD - Accelerate B - Turbo Boost A - Shift START - Pause You'll also be able to use the controller between races to select the upgrades you want for your vehicle. Just press 'left' on the D-Pad (or 'B') to remove an upgrade you've purchased in exchange for the indicated amount of cash or press 'right' (or 'A') to add an upgrade if you have enough money. You can press 'Start' on the controller when you're ready to go. ------------------------- ITEM DESCRIPTIONS {G1002} ------------------------- You can gain special items during the overhead stages, and they'll have a definite impact on your ability to win the race and perhaps even put your opponent out of permanent commission. Use them to their fullest. CASH This upgrade is just what you would expect. Driving over the top of it instantly places money in your account, which is important in case you crash. Always remember that you lose $500 each time you crash--as does your opponent- -so sometimes there's nothing more important than a bit of cash. As a side note, hitting any cow will litter the field ahead with cash icons for a short while. The best time to do this is after your opponent has gone bankrupt from hitting a tree or running afoul of your sawblade attack. Then you can keep all the money for yourself! NITRO These are fairly common throughout the course, and you can carry around as many as you can equip. They give you a short quick burst and come in handy mostly when you know a race is about to end. They're also good for moving again in a hurry if you let yourself slow down in muck, and they'll pull you out of the ravines in some of the later stages rather quickly. SAWBLADE This item will cause a rotating saw blade to extent from the front of your truck for a period of several valuable seconds. During that period, you can brush up against the back of your competitor to do steady damage to his truck's armor. Usually, a truck will try to pull free of this. With computer controlled opponents, it's easy to use the technique to force them into a grove of trees, then rush ahead with some nitro so that their truck explodes. Yeah! SHIELD This one looks like a tile with a screw on each of its four corners. When you use it, you'll start flashing and making 'blooping' noises, and the sawblade your opponent might be using will no longer inflict any sort of damage to your life meter. SPRINGS These look like a row of ammunition on an old gun belt. When you use one, you'll fly into the air over obstacles like short fences and some trees, and possibly over the head of your opponent if he's just in front of you and crowding you away from where you need to be. The item is seldom useful, but when you need to get ahead in a hurry, there's no better way. WRENCH If you've taken damage but you're not quite done for, grab a wrench. It will instantly restore any damage you've lost. It's mostly only useful if you've been bumping into a lot of fences (which would mean you're a bit of a dork) or if you're opponent has been taking his saw to your backside (which would make him vicious and competitive). This item is actually rather rare and tends to be guarded on one side by wooden railings and by trees on the other. At least, that's where it always seems to be when I need it. The most important items really are the nitros and the cash. Nitrous will let you win a race you might otherwise lose, while the cash is important if only because you don't want your opponent to grab it. Never go out of your way for anything like a sawblade, since they're plentiful in most stages. Just be patient, try to trick your opponent into ramming into trees, and have a good time! ------------------------ VEHICLE UPGRADES {G1003} ------------------------ When it comes time to take part in the actual competitions, the truck with the biggest tires and the best gears is the one that's most likely to win. At the same time, fully improving your truck will cost $6000 the first time you do it, and keeping up on parts can be a costly proposition after hill climbs. ENGINE ($800) This upgrade affects your speed in the most obvious fashion, of course. With the big engine, you can get off to an early start and that will keep your truck's areas from faltering. For example, a tractor pull goes very poorly if you don't get off to a good start, and the same is true to an extent of the hill climbs. You'll find that the computer looks at this upgrade first. There's a reason for that. TIRES ($600) You might think to yourself that tires don't matter much, but they really do. Tires are important when you're crushing rows of cars and it's important especially on hill climbs. If you have tiny tires, you won't make it much of anywhere and your truck will go rolling backwards down the hill. You don't want that, since weakened tires are more susceptible to even further breakdown. GEARBOX ($400) The variety of events means that sometimes you'll need to switch gears a lot. For example, the tractor pull starts to wear you down near the end. You can't always keep your engine pushing its hardest, so the ability to change gears on a dime is useful and important if you don't want to damage your truck's parts. If a hill climb isn't going your way, a gearbox might just save the day. Maybe. SHOCKS ($200) These parts are mostly important during the car crush events. If you don't have good suspension, you'll bounce all over the place as each pile of junk crumbles beneath you. That'll affect your top speed. You don't want anything to get in the way of a steady, even approach to crushing cars. Anywhere there are small hills or cars, you want good suspension. My tips on the above parts match my experience, but yours might vary depending on how you play. This FAQ is assuming that you like my approach to winning- one that has proven successful for me on numerous occasions and has driven many a human opponent to the brink of madness--so keep it all firmly in mind the next time you race. =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= WALKTHROUGH {W0001} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= The game sends you through a gauntlet of overhead races and side-scrolling tournament events. This walkthrough will give general tips on conquering each area, but the greatest tip is to use your head. Bigfoot really is a simple game when it comes right down to it. In fact, some of the most fun you can have from the game comes when you challenge yourself to see how many of your computer-controlled opponents you can put out of business. Just don't give yourself too fully to that task, or you might go broke yourself! -------------------- RACE TO MESA {W1001} -------------------- This is a good place to get a feel for how the overhead areas will work. From the starting line, you want to stay just slightly ahead of your competitor, not so far ahead that you're near the top of the screen, but just over halfway up. You also want to stick mostly to the center of the course. The reason for this is that it allows you to hit the various gates. They look like toothpicks with wads of paper on the end, stuck into the ground. Each consecutive one you hit increases in value, until each is worth $500. You don't want your rival getting that cash. If he interrupts your streak even once, you have to start over. Besides the mad dash for cash, you'll also find a lot of sawblades. They're great for draining your opponent's health, but don't let yourself concentrate so much on sticking it to him that you forget about the gates or wind up smashing into trees. You want those things to happen to your rival, not you. The course is rather unremarkable as a whole. Note that when you start seeing a lot of shallow streams of water, you're almost to the end. It's time to start using those nitrous boosts to streak across the finish line ahead of your opponent (if he's ahead of you). Take the lead and don't lose it during the final stretch! ----------------------- MESA CAR CRUNCH {W1002} ----------------------- This event is really just an introduction to the more challenging events that will lie ahead. You're going to learn some things here that you'll put into practice in later events. For starters, don't head over the starting line until the light properly turns. As it does, start alternating like mad between the 'left' and 'right' buttons and hold down 'B' to use your super acceleration. After a second or so, you should be able to press 'A' to shift up and then shift up again (if you try to shift too soon, before your accelerator has reached a sufficient point, you'll just do the opposite of what you want and shift down!). If you've learned to shift properly, you'll basically burn through the course in no time flat, but make sure that you release the 'B' button as necessary when your engine is threatening to overheat. Naturally, the only exception should be when you are neck-and-neck with an opponent and you have the cash to afford another engine piece. Then, it's every man for himself as you both race to finish first. Just don't spend more than you'll win from the cash pot unless your primary concern is keeping your rival from snagging any prize money. If he's broke from buying parts, you can easily make him go bust at the start of the next overhead race, after all... -------------------- RACE TO RENO {W1003} -------------------- This race is a lot like the other one, but it does seem to last a lot longer and there are more of the gates to pass through. Not only that, but they spread themselves out on the course a bit more, which means you'll likely have more difficulty keeping your opponent from running across at least one along the way. Another complication is the increased abundance in cash that litters the road. Between the gate and the money, you'll likely have a hard time preventing your wily opponent from picking up some money. Otherwise, the course is fairly nondescript. It's just a good way to fatten your wallet before the next race. --------------------- RENO MUD RACE {W1004} --------------------- Mud races aren't much different from car crushing events. The difference is that they tend to slow you down a bit more when you're in the middle of a pit of brown muck. The same tricks that worked before will serve you well here again, except now keeping your acceleration going by alternating presses of the 'left' and 'right' buttons is of paramount importance. If you play right, note that you can also get your opponent to burn through one of his engines. This is a neat trick, especially if you can manage it during three legs of the race. If you're confident you can win, you'll soon find that a great way to wear down a rival is to lose the middle race on purpose. That gives him more time to damage his truck. You can laugh as he loses tires and engine power, then finish the third round and claim the prize money while he weeps (virtually, of course, since he's just a computer or your manly best friend) over his loss. Note that the mud race is longer than the car crushing event you faced last time, so you'll find a pit stop. If you fail to reach the fuel stop, you can't finish the race. That mostly just happens if you let yourself become bogged up in mud. So, uh... don't. Avoid any such problems by remembering to accelerate quickly, though because the race is longer you'll want to keep a more watchful eye on your engine temperature. It's not difficult to burn through a few engines here if you're not paying attention, something you can't afford to do at this early stage in the game. ---------------------- RACE TO YAKIMA {W1005} ---------------------- The nitrous items are a lot scarcer in this particular race, which should make it a neck-and-neck sort of affair just when you need that sort of event the least: right before the Yakima hill climb. The Yakima hill climb will take a lot out of you and your opponent both, so your greatest focus should be simply snagging all of those gates (you know, the gaps that look like they're Q-Tips placed side by side). Try not to miss them and don't worry too much about grabbing all of the cash unless doing so won't prevent you from snagging that all-important next gate. You should also make sure that you're in a good position to sweep across the finish line in first place, so save any nitrous you do manage to grab for that last leg of the race. Also, it's pretty easy to get your opponent to crash against a group of trees once or twice in the race, and you should be able to pick up a sawblade item if you want to inflict some serious pain that way. Just remember, as always, that crashing your opponent a few times won't do any good if you let him bag a bunch of cash by passing through the gates ahead of you. ------------------------- YAKIMA HILL CLIMB {W1006} ------------------------- If you didn't manage to come in first on the race to Yakima, you're really going to be hurting after paying an admittance fee. The hill climb event is the most expensive in the game, since your engine and tires both really take a beating as you struggle to reach the top of the hill first. If you aren't going into the hill climb with a fully energized truck--and particularly if your opponent is--then there's not much point in competing at all. Even if you're only crawling along, your tires wear down quickly and so does your engine. Even rolling backward if your rival finishes ahead of you causes damage to your vehicle. In short, winning that $1000 will likely cost you several times that in parts even if you're being as careful as possible. If you want to win and have the money to spend, then the trick is to just keep going as fast as possible. As the needle on your engine gets near the boiling point, you can let it drop a bit, but never slack off enough that your truck starts to roll backwards or you'll be in for a world of hurt. Note that even if you're not boosting, your engine can still overheat in this ridiculous event. Expect to lose a tire and engine in each leg of the race, and possibly more if you're not playing wisely. The good news is that the same will happen to your opponent... --------------------- RACE TO FARGO {W1007} --------------------- This raceway is marked by a lot more shrubbery than those you've encountered in the past. A favorite trick of mine is to find one of the big bits of forestation, then slow down to a crawl just short of it. Your opponent is likely to slowly drift ahead of you, then bang repeatedly against the forest. When he crashes to bits, he'll reappear shortly, but the computer spawns him over the top of the forest. If you play it right, you can get rid of three or four trucks that way, at a hefty cost to your enemy. Otherwise, the track isn't much to talk about. You will find some of the steep, pale banks you can race up with nitro boosts, but those can also be driven around and there are plenty of the spring items that allow you to fly up and over them with little trouble at all. Those nitro boosts I mentioned also happen to be more plentiful, so you can use them sparingly throughout the race when you need to reach a gate first, and you can also boost like crazy for the final leg of the race that takes you to the finish line. -------------------------- FARGO TRACTOR PULL {W1008} -------------------------- The tractor pull event can either be incredibly simple or impossibly difficult, depending on how you play it. The trick really is to start out with a steady rush. Shift almost immediately while holding the 'B' button to use your turbo, then shift again as soon as possible so that you're in the top gear. This will allow you to come within 10 or 20 yards of the finish line. As your engine temperature creeps up to its maximum point, go ahead and let go of turbo. Then just rely on regular engine power to carry you across the finish line. This is an easy event to win when played like that, and it shouldn't cost you any parts. ---------------------- RACE TO PUEBLO {W1009} ---------------------- Racing to Pueblo is refreshingly simple. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that most of the money-yielding stakes you want to hit lie along the course's right side, while most of the cows seem to hang out to the left. Even though cash prizes are tempting, those stakes will ultimately give you more money than you'll earn by going out of your way to strike a cow. This is especially true because when you do manage to hit a cow--something that's often dangerous, given where the bovines tend to gather--your rival will boost forward, collecting most of the money and moving so fast that you can't (often, he'll also cause you to crash into a tree). Aside from hitting the stakes, there's not much to worry about on this leg of the race. There are no severe threats with which to concern yourself and the race itself seems surprisingly short. There also are plenty of nitrous pickups, so that you don't have to be stingy with them. You're likely to see the highway coming at you before you even expect it. When it does, you're more than likely to have enough nitrous to sweep into the lead (if you aren't wisely there already) and cross the finish line ahead of your competition. ------------------------- PUEBLO CAR CRUNCH {W1010} ------------------------- You might think you've tackled car crunches just fine in the past, and you're probably right, but you haven't tackled the Pueblo car crunch event. This one is a lot longer than the previous one, and it has an added wrinkle: plenty of mud. Racing through this course and coming through in first place will quite possibly demand that you burn through an engine part. Your rival seems rather stupid on that count, and isn't afraid to wreak havoc on his truck's health if it means he has a better chance at the cash prize. Worse, even normal engine efforts can cause you to overheat when you're not paying attention, due to all of the mud. The course also is long enough that you'll come across a pit stop for fuel, so count on that. As usual, you'll do best if you maintain the highest speed possible, but don't let your engine overheat unless you absolutely must. And if it has to happen, well, let it happen. The worst thing you can do is panic because an engine is about to burst while you're climbing a hill at a steady clip or what have you. That's the quickest way to lose a race. --------------------- RACE TO TULSA {W1011} --------------------- This is a fairly straight-forward rush for the finish line, complete with a lot of the stakes you can drive over for cash prizes. They're spaced all over the course, so there's not a lot you can do here except stay ahead of your opponent. You'll particularly want to stay ahead when you know the course is winding down. Your sign to take the lead is when you see the trees boxed in by square fences along the center of the path. A few short seconds later, you'll start to see shallower streams appearing. When you see the wooden bridge, start using nitrous like they're going out of style. The highway stretch to the finish line begins immediately after said bridge. -------------------------- TULSA TRACTOR PULL {W1012} -------------------------- As you have perhaps come to expect, this version of the tractor pull differs from its predecessor in that the earth is apparently made of sturdier stuff. The simple translation? You can burn through an engine part if you're not careful. It's rather ridiculous, really, but whatever. Just use the same strategy that served you so well before. By this stage in the game, you probably have enough money that you don't have to worry too much over the occasional burnt out engine. But if you are worried about that, just stop using your turbo boost once you're around 2/3 of the way up the temperature gauge. I've found that if you go much higher, you'll lose the engine part by the end of the race even if you're not boosting at all. Since your opponent is unlikely to be taking this particular event all that seriously, you should be able to win pretty easily and claim those valuable prize points. ----------------------- RACE TO JACKSON {W1013} ----------------------- The race to Jackson is a fairly simply affair by now, and isn't particularly ripe with opportunities to coerce your rival into a crash in the foliage. In fact, for the most part this is just a cluttered course without a lot in the way of forestation. Most of the stakes seem to be on the right side or middle, though the second set is to the left side of the screen and then the right in a quick, odd sweep. Staying to the right won't allow you to get all of the stakes, but it should prevent your rival from setting up a money-yielding streak. That's about all you want to do right now (while filling your own bank). A hill climb is coming up, and you already know how costly those are from your experience outside of Yakima. -------------------------- JACKSON HILL CLIMB {W1014} -------------------------- This hill climb event is a little bit longer than its predecessor, and what that actually means is that the best way to win without taking much damage is to ignore your other gears and turbo boosts altogether. In fact, doing so will not only give you a good chance of crossing the finish line in first place, but will also give you a good chance of doing so without burning through an engine part. You'll still damage your tires, though. That simply can't be avoided. In fact, expect to lose two of them. Your opponent is likely to lose at least as much if he's controlled by the computer, and probably even more if your friend happens to be holding the other controller. There's really no more advanced strategy for this hill climb, but the good news is that you simply don't need one. In some ways, it's an easier contest than the one in Yakima! --------------------- RACE TO UNION {W1015} --------------------- By now, you're probably used to courses like this one. There aren't a lot of trees and there isn't a lot of anything that will cause you to stand up and take note. Perhaps the only noteworthy item at all is the same one that has likely caused you to pay attention before: those stakes. At this point, the computer-controlled opponent seems to be particularly adept at staying in the lead and sweeping past the stakes just before you can. Fortunately, you can prevent him from doing so by picking up a lot of the sawblade items. When you have a blade buzzing ahead of your truck, your rival tends to veer either to the right or left. It's a good way to make him run into trees (when available) or simply to steer clear of the gates. Just make sure you stay close enough to be intimidating and don't miss the cash and nitrous pickups, either. You'll need them to sweep down that final bit of highway for the prize money. ---------------------- UNION MUD RACE {W1016} ---------------------- After the hill climb at Jackson, you're going to be down a few parts. Naturally, you'll want to repair them here with whatever money you can manage. You're in for one of the longest courses in the game. Mud races always stink because the mud slows you down so much, and here you'll find extended mud bogs. Make sure that right from the start, you build up your speed so that you can shift into your highest gear and blaze through the mud. If you take a slower approach, your opponent will leave you tasting his exhaust. Probably the biggest surprise is how often your engines burn out of you on this course. In fact, you run the very real risk of losing all four engines. Don't let that happen, no matter what. You certainly won't win if you slow to a halt just short of a finish line or a hill and find that your engine is completely gone. Note also that there are two fuel stops along the way in this race. If you haven't reached the second one and you're already down to your last engine, you know you're doing something wrong. A winning strategy is going to demand that you burn through around two of your engines. You simply can't go any slower, or else you'll run out of fuel and the rival truck will easily claim a safe win. If you're not in a position where you have to build up points, this might be a good race to just idle at the starting line while your rival burns through his tires and engines. ------------------------ RACE TO NEW YORK {W1017} ------------------------ This is your final overhead race, and it's a fun one just because you know the race is about to come to an end. It also happens to be a good one to use if you want to push your current opponent into bankruptcy. Assuming he had as much trouble with that mud race as you did, his cash flow should be extremely minimal. There also are plenty of trees and fences you can use to your advantage here, and not as many convenient gates as there were in past courses. In short, it's the perfect place to be a bully. Beyond that, I'm afraid I don't have any other notes for success. There are only a few cows, mostly positioned along the left side, and by now you probably don't need money at all. If you play your cards right, you can arrive at the finish line while your opponent is in pretty sorry shape, perhaps bad enough shape that he can't afford the entry fee to the final event. -------------------------- NEW YORK DRAG RACE {W1018} -------------------------- If you have much money at all, there's not really any reason to proceed with much caution here. At the same time, a full-on turbo approach isn't necessary. The best way to succeed is to maintain a steady pace. Save your turbo boost for the flat stretches and make sure you're in the highest gear during those times. When you come over the hills, that's the time to slow your cruising just a bit. The cars here seem to bounce you around a bit more than they should. You even run the (likely) risk of losing some shocks. That's how rough the tournament drag race is. I'd tell you to just speed through the whole course, but it's too long. Like the mud race in Union, this course has two fueling points. Fortunately, there's not quite as much mud. That means that prudent but aggressive driving will allow you to easily take the lead and maintain it throughout the race. This isn't all that difficult an event to win. When the event ends, so does the game. You've either won (if you have more total points than your rival) or lost (if you don't). Enjoy the weaksauce ending (you don't even get to see closing credits), then play again! =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS {C0004} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= Q: How do you drive the stupid trucks? A: You have to press the 'left' and 'right' buttons on the D-pad, one after the other. Repeatedly pressing them serves the same function as pressing the gas pedal in simpler games. It's an odd design choice, certainly, but it works. Q: Who are my computer-controlled opponents? A: First comes the Growler. He's green and stupid. Then comes the Charger, who is more aggressive and yellow. Next you'll face the Charger and the Terminator. I'm afraid I haven't gotten beyond those two. At least, not that I can recall. =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS {C0005} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= No one has helped me to make this particular FAQ, since I was the first to write anything for the game over on GameFAQs. That's sort of the reason I wrote this. I'll update if anyone contributes anything later, though. =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= CONTACT/COPYRIGHT/LEGAL {C0006} =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= If you need to reach me for any issues not properly addressed within the body of this FAQ, you are welcome to send me an e-mail at jasonventer[_at_]yahoo{- dot-}com (make the obvious changes). Please make sure that the subject of your e-mail makes clear its intent so that it is not deleted as spam; I receive literally hundreds of messages each day. Now for the legal stuff. First, know that this FAQ is copyrighted material and was from the moment I first placed it online. It was originally written for my site, HonestGamers. Please check it out if you haven't recently. I also contribute most FAQs that I write to GameFAQs. Are you interested in posting it on your site? That's fantastic! I wrote it to help people, after all. You have my permission to use this FAQ until such time as you receive contrary notice from myself, provided you adhere strictly to the following terms: You must store the FAQ on your own servers and you must make all reasonable efforts to ensure that you always host the most updated version. When placing this FAQ on your site, please make sure that you grab the version available on one of the following two sites, which are always going to be the ones kept up to date: HonestGamers (http://www.honestgamers.com) GameFAQs (http://www.gamefaqs.com) Additionally, users may not be charged to access this FAQ content. I wrote it, so if anyone should receive payment it's me. It must always be free or you can't host it. Note also that you are prohibited from modifying this contact/copyright/legal section of the FAQ by even a single character. It must remain in place and be easily accessible. If you feel that the above terms are disagreeable and would like to discuss other terms on an individual basis, you have my e-mail address. You may also follow the 'Contact' link on my site, HonestGamers, if you prefer. Finally, please remember as always that this game, its characters, logos, artwork, audio, scenarios and all other attributes are the property of their registered copyright holders. If you have any questions about the developer or publisher, you are encouraged to visit the appropriate web sites, as available. I make no claim to the intellectual property contained within and reserve rights only as pertain to this body of text, nor do I guarantee that the information within is completely correct. By viewing this page, you agree that you will not hold me or any sites that display this content responsible for any damage real or imagined that may arise from proper or improper adherence to the instructions and terms within. Copyright 2007 Jason Venter This may be not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal, private use. It may not be placed on any web site or otherwise distributed publicly except as outlined above. Use of this guide on any other web site or as a part of any public display is strictly prohibited, and a violation of copyright.