Subj : Re: USB 3 Issue? To : Barry Martin From : Ky Moffet Date : Sun Jan 19 2020 15:50:00 BARRY MARTIN wrote: > Mike and Ky (and anyone else!(: Anyone! speak up! :D > > Friend says Kingston flash drives 16GB or above are nothing but trouble > > and commonly lock up the system. Nowadays I stick to Sandisk so have > > avoided this problem. > MP> I have been having luck lately (knock on wood!) with Corsair > MP> Voyagers. > > Thanks for the tip. So seems best to stay with name-brand, though the > yellow ADATA thumbdrives were here junk while the blues ones worked fine > -- appeared to be the same except for the colour of the housing. ADATA have a dreadful rep, as I've mentioned before. I expect they're strictly rebadging seconds (not manufacturing their own chips) so what you get depends on the source... and they may differentiate source by color. Far as I know, the only vertical chip manufacturers are Micron, Sandisk (now part of WD), and maybe Samsung, and even then there's lots of chip swapping depending on who has surplus or deficit. Also... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_flash_drive#Counterfeit_products ====== Counterfeit products Counterfeit USB flash drives are sometimes sold with claims of having higher capacities than they actually have. These are typically low capacity USB drives which are modified so that they emulate larger capacity drives (for example, a 2 GB drive being marketed as a 64 GB drive). When plugged into a computer, they report themselves as being the larger capacity they were sold as, but when data is written to them, either the write fails, the drive freezes up, or it overwrites existing data. Software tools exist to check and detect fake USB drives,[46][47] and in some cases it is possible to repair these devices to remove the false capacity information and use its real storage limit.[48] ================ I got a pair of cheapo USB hubs from some outfit in ages past, and when they arrived, one was black, the other silver. One didn't work due to loose parts rattling around inside. When I reported that, they asked me which color was broken (and sent a replacement of the other color) so that's how they were keeping track. Per the innards, different manufacturer, but the cases were the same other than color. > As for the problems when plugging in something to the port, had that > this morning when I plugged in a dongle for the cordless keyboard and > mouse into a different computer: caused it to reboot. Have plugged the > dongle in to it and several other computers without problem. > Possibility of static electricity as lower humidity. In general I do > the 'static electricity tap' so should have been equalized. > ..Suggestions? Ideas? Shouldn't be static with USB stuff, because it self-grounds. (Same with SATA.) Also, judging by the shocks I've seen this stuff survive unfazed, it's not really all that sensitive. My New! Improved!! mainboard (Asus P9X79LE, about 5 years old) has a function to protect itself from static or overvoltage, which I expect is probably fairly standard now. I've lived with low low LOW humidity for so long that I have a habit of slapping the wall with the back of my hand before touching the light switch or the faucet (cuz otherwise I get a nasty surprise) and no such issue here from that. Do occasionally get a jolt when I go to pull a dongle and have been walking around first. (Time to spray Downey on the carpet again. Works wonders for static, tho tends to collect dirt.) This is interesting, tho applies to Windows: https://www.hellpc.net/fix-usb-flash-drive-freezes-computer-when-plugged-in-issue/ https://tl.net/forum/tech-support/426915-computer-freezing-and-usb-ports-not-working Response in comments: ========= Make sure you have all drives plugged into the Intel ports, these are the white or black SATA ports and USB 2.0 ports. Disable the Marvell SATA ports and Etron USB ports in the BIOS. Random lock ups (meaning it could happen on idle or load) were a common problem during the initial months of the Sandybridge release, related to PLL and power saving features. Disabling C1E, C3, C6, EIST and CPU PLL Overvoltage solved it for some people so you may want to try that. ========== þ RNET 2.10U: ILink: Techware BBS þ Hollywood, Ca þ www.techware2k.com --- QScan/PCB v1.20a / 01-0462 * Origin: ILink: CFBBS | cfbbs.no-ip.com | 856-933-7096 (454:1/1) .