In this tiny diamond shaped island 23 miles wide
and 13 miles deep, musicians are spread to all the remote corners.
The musical fraternity is less an homogeneous whole than a collection of
brothers, sisters, aunts and uncles, distant cousins who might occasionally
run into each other at a wedding or a funeral.
In recent years, the untimely deaths of local
musicians has forged collectives out of the woodwork to play for charity
or to remember a fellow musician. These bursts of energy have brought home
a clear message that the local talent has a spiritual and often unheralded
depth of skill. Perhaps the most graphic example of this was the 2,500 people
who turned out on a bleak January night three years ago to watch local bands
pay tribute to the late Graham Betchley.
Graham was a member of the band which became
known as the Isle of Wight Beatles. The Cherokees might have chosen to spend
the sixties endlessly chasing their tails around Britain's pop circuit in
the back of a van. Instead, they held court on the Isle of Wight, bringing
the cream of progressive 1960s pop and rock acts to their own doorstep (Moody
Blues, the Nice, Pink Floyd, Fairport Convention et al). With themselves
as support act, their 69 Club became a byword on the Island for a good Saturday
night out.
Brian Sharpe, the Cherokees guitarist since
the 1950s, literally hauled Islanders who played during the Cherokees classic
era back on stage, including the surviving members of the band, drummer
Ken Young and bassist Crann Davies. While 2,500 fans stomped down the melting
ice under the carpets of Ryde Ice Rink and screamed for more, the reformed
Cherokees turned it on one more time. An inspired tour de force of rhythm
and blues, psychedelic rock, and sixties pop tunes delivered as though the
clock had been turned back. Bassist Crann Davies came off stage, wiped the
sweat from his forehead and declared: "That was so good you want to go straight
back on and do it again."
Sadly, there can be no going back. Ryde is
now a crumbling edifice, a pale shadow of its heydays in the 1950s. Many
of the haunts of a generation are gone. Pubs became banks and old cafe's
lost out to the march of fast food chains. The high street chains, now firmly
established in the Island's capital of Newport, have done much to change
the face of the local economy by drawing customers from local shops in seaside
towns and surrounding villages into the epicenter.
Every generation will hanker after the way it
used to be. Sometimes a catalyst is needed to change the way it is.
A change in managership at the Quay Arts Centre, Newport is a case in point.
The Quay nearly sunk itself in its elitism, but under the helm of Virgil
Philpott, its artistic fortunes have revived providing a platform for local
and mainland artists in music and art.
Another mover and shaker trying to revive
the artistic fortunes of the Island's capital is Zara Smith. She sees Newport
losing its soul. Old pubs continue to give way to cake shops; the arrival
of mainland supermarkets is changing the face of the town. But Zara has
successfully campaigned, with the help of local musicians and promoters,
to bring music and theatre back into the town square. The local council
got the message, providing a yearly grant for a music and theatre day in
Newport's St. Thomas's Square. Summer in the Square, now in its fourth year,
is an attempt to reawaken the community to its musicians and performers
with a spate of theatrical, dance, and children's activities.
Zara herself laments that the golden days
are over. She wants to return to a period of just three or four years ago
when John Wroath and Duncan Jones, aka the Wayward Sons, held court every
weekend
in a tiny pub on the corner of the square. In a previous century, Wroath
and Jones would fit the wanted posters for Butch Cassidy and the Sundance
Kid. The "Rose and Crown"their Hole in the Wall retreat.
Here was an artistic community not defined
over finger cake and coffee in an arts cafe. Nor one supported by obscene
lottery grants tossed about like confetti. On any weekend, the Rose and
Crown attracted a collective with no age or social barriers. It was forged
solely by what the Irish are known to call the "craic".
Week after week Wroath and Jones fired up
the congregation with more spirit than a baptist minister. Wroath, part
cheerleader, always the provocateur, haranguing his audience, master of
the barstool aside. A tribal thump on his electric bass as he beat time
to the unaccompanied intro to his song "Just A Lover". The crowd hushed
as this shaven-headed, marauding bear poured it out. "I never promised you
my love at all, I never promised you my love at all, I never promised you
F*** aaaaaaaaaaalllllllllllllll" he would roar. Then all hell would break
loose. A thundering bass line ricocheted off the low ceiling, knife edge
acoustic guitar riffs issued from Jones topped by Wroath's growling vocal
chords. The bar would go daft. Whacko, unleashed. The weekend's here, whoopee
drunk.
John's more subdued partner, Duncan "the
voice" Jones was the epitome of a bar stool troubadour. He pitched his Kerouac
songs across that smokey, beery bar any night he played there. His voice
was driven by Kerouac's inspiration, charged with soul, guitar chords like
razor wires stiffened the hairs on the back of your neck. When Duncan Jones
sang his "Jack" at the "Rose" it was delivered with a passion, eyes closed,
heart bared right to the last bar. And that welcome-to-the-weekend crowd
was right with him.
Jack
Your brain has been pickled by whiskey and pills
Who gives a damn if this cocktail kills
Spirit the spirits, drop in the road, yeah
Just pass the lemon, pass the salt, pass out cold
Yes we will
Damn by some breath and I'll be a hero and die
Hero so special, but a true brandy man
Just like a child got to play a nice candy manChorus
'Cause I could never be like you, even if I wanted to
Killing myself just for the sake of it
I could never walk with you
Take the railroad and talk to you
Killing myself just for the sake of it
Just for the sake of it, yeahWell the Devil's associate, the angels despair
Morning falls farther from reality's stare
Skin 'em up and draw 'em down, insist they won't win
Victorious half saint that bastard won't win
I know you won't win
Jack in absence kind of finds your place
Frightens, enlightens, am I just tempting fate
Stares of glory, drinking till dawn
Hit the road Jack
Hey I only want you to come back
I don't mind, you just do what you do best
Don't give a shit about the rest
Do what you do best, don't mind about the rest
Hit the road Jack . . .© Duncan Jones
Zara shivers now when she walks across the square.
The old Rose and Crown, named after a meeting between the King and a lady
in Cromwellian times, is no more. It's a finger cake café, now, selling
fancy bottled beer and posing under a French name. It closes early when
the office workers leave town for the weekend. The ghosts of Newport reprobates
who waltzed Doc Marten booted girls in long dresses around the square to
the music of the Wayward Sons still linger for those who felt the sheer
spirit of the place in better times.
Old Newport retreats to the fringes. Mainland
supermarkets now compete for space. The corporate theme pubs and restaurants
have moved in. Newport now sports a multi-screen complex cinema plus the
obligatory Hard Rock Cafe. The "fast food microwaved quick" turnaround nature
of these places pales in comparison to a visit with one of Albie Payne's
gargantuan breakfasts in nearby Carisbrooke. Aside from the American sized
portions on the plates, the attraction of Albie and Jean Payne's old style
British café is their passion for Elvis. Twenty stone Albie still
proudly sports his 1950s sideburns; Jean has her hair in the classic 1950s
style and the walls of the café are filled with Presley memorabilia.
Customers come from all over the Island for a good blow out.
For a decent pint in a pub whose only theme
is to stop time, many musicians frequent the tiny Railway Medina tucked
away on the edge of the gone world. Duncan Jones and his brother Roland
will turn up to sing on barstools. The Railway Medina still retains the
charm of the town pubs where my father once drank. The kind where the barmaid
knows the difference between a boilermaker and a bacardi breezer.
At the Railway Medina the clientele roll
their own cigarettes between nicoteened fingers as their fathers did before
them. It may be the last retreat of the bohemian left in Newport. Adam Kirk,
when he's down from London or back from tour with a famous folk singer,
will drink quietly out of the limelight. Adam's father Mickey Kirk still
regrets that his son never played football for Newport. Only the half grin,
the gleam in his eye suggests he's proud fit to bust of his "nipper". Nipper
is the colloquial slang to define any male between nine months and ninety
years on the Island.
For Adam Kirk has, like three quarters of
Level 42the chart topping 1980s pop and funk bandbefore him,
had to leave the Island to make a mark for himself. After studying his craft
at Leeds, Adam worked his way through playing guitar for the Bronte Brothers,
English songwriter Tanita Tikaram, and Ireland's Sinead Lohan before he
got an offer to fly to New York for an audition. "I was shaking," admits
the guitarist, but Joan Baez hired him.
Adam Kirk has a poster on his wall. It's
from the 1970 Afton Festival, the year of his birth. That was the year that
Tennyson's Freshwater became host to a bigger event than Woodstock, but
just as chaotic. Everyone from Hendrix to Miles Davis came to play. Dylan
was missing but he'd played the Island the previous year. Joan Baez came
to Afton. I smiled when I saw that poster on his wall.
There's little trace in Tennyson's Freshwater
thirty years after Afton that there was a memorable event at all. Just a
small tea room of people gathered to celebrate the anniversary at Victorian
photographer Julia Margaret Cameron's former home, Dimbola Lodge. It was
here that the lady set up her small studio in the chicken house out the
back. She mixed with and photographed the icons of Victorian society who
were attracted to the area to visit Poet Laureate Alfred Lord Tennyson,
who lived at nearby Farringford House.
It was fitting, thirty years after nearly
half a million descended on this quiet corner of the Island, that Ron Turner
Smith should recall the event. Now 75, he bears an uncanny resemblance to
Tennyson himself, who stares down at him from the adjacent wall. He stands
in his khaki shorts, wearing an old t-shirt, a weathered faced buried beneath
a rough seaman's beard, shifting the weight off his arthritic knee. "I spent
a week up there after the festival making sure that the field was cleared.
Go up there now, you won't find as much as a bottle top. You know we had
the men who built the stage at Woodstock helped to put the stage together
for the Isle of Wight. They told me afterwards that ours was bigger and
better organised."
Ron Turner Smith was the Foulk brothers'
right hand man. Without his request for assistance from the Foulks to raise
funds for a local swimming pool, the first Island "pop" festival near Godshill
would never have happened. Ron and Ray Foulk were the organisers through
their company Fiery Creations of all three Island festivals. The forgotten
1968 festival near Godshill which attracted 14,000 fans, the famous Dylan
festival of 1969 which swelled the numbers to 130,000, and the final swan
song at Afton which, depending on with whom you speak, runs from
300,000 to half a million in attendance.
The colourful ten minute talk is an introduction
to the music; fellow Dimbola Lodge volunteer Brian Hinton moves to the mike.
Sitting under the parlour fireplace is Dick Taylor in a paisley shirt cradling
his jet black Fender Stratocaster guitar. A Victorian nymph maiden from
an old painting looks down on him approvingly. He lifts his eyes up from
his guitar with just a nod at Brian Hinton's glowing introduction.
Dick Taylor is well known to those attending
today but may safely walk down the old streets of seaside Ventnor where
he lives without too much fuss. The local broadsheet weekly paper the County
Press couldn't resist asking in a recent interview if he regretted leaving
the Rolling Stones to pursue his education at art college.
In the quiet way he has, Dick Taylor concluded
that he doesn't envy Bill Wyman because to some degree fame traps a musician
by public perception, condemns him to become a living jukebox endlessly
grinding out old hits. Dick Taylor settles for sitting in small bars and
venues between Stateside tours with his old sixties rebel rousing band,
The Pretty Things. "This way I can stretch my music anyway I feel", he says.
Aided and abetted by two local musicians
going under the collective title of the Sparkle Brothers, Dick Taylor shifts
through some old blues tunes. Appropriately, the trio features two songs
that Free played at the 1970 festival, "The Hunter" and "Wishing Well".
Dick Taylor wails away on electric lead as though Afton were only yesterday,
blurring notes, searing runs adding reverb to echo, whanging off the walls
of this sedate Victorian tea room. Julia Margaret Cameron and her esoteric
crowd would have approved.
Thirty years ago, psychedelia
did meet Victoriana in Tennyson's Freshwater. A backdrop of
landed gentry with 19th Century attitudes railed against 20th Century liberation
just as their grandfathers had denied women the vote. Today, thanks to the
efforts of Brian Hinton, the two camps blend perfectly. Dr. Hinton is not
only a Tennyson historian but also an aficionado of English and American
psychedelic music. His books include biographies of Joni Mitchell and Van
Morrison.
Julia Margaret Cameron's old house brims
with old prints of idylls of kings, queens, "cabbages and sealing wax",
photographs of Alice Liddle, aka Alice in Wonderland. There's even a picture
of Charles Darwin caught with the air of an absent minded professor deep
in thought. The mixture of a wooden Victorian house full of antiquarian
delights sharing space with latter day psychedelia appears to make perfect
sense.
Upstairs in the bedrooms, Dr. Hinton has
laid out an exhibition of Linda McCartney's Rock Photographs from the 1960s.
There's also a room of local photographer Doug White's Afton Festival pictures.
Appropriately on the stairwell is the late Linda McCartney's photograph
of Los Angeles troubadour Tim Buckley. Buckley's funeral in 1975 included
a reading of Tennyson's "Crossing The Bar". Here was Buckley in the year
of 1967 before heroin took hold.
In the bare-board bedrooms I stand looking
at Doug White's pictures, hearing once more the evocative piano and the
haunting voice of Joni Mitchell as it floated across the sun basked arena
at Afton thirty years before. She's singing "By the time I got to Woodstock"
again in my mind. Miles is blowing long streams of spiky trumpet while I
sit on the hillside overlooking the stage with other freeloaders who didn't
pay to go in. In front of me dances the first naked woman I saw in public,
her hips swaying to the music. Every time I hear Miles now I see her lost,
absorbed, solid gone.
The view out of Dimbola's upper windows stretches
across a golden meadow of summer corn to the sea. It is a vista unchanged
since Tennyson walked up the steep coastal path to ponder the heroic futility
of the Charge of the Light Brigade. Surrealist English songwriter Robyn
Hitchcock aptly describes the mysticism of the area with due licence to
early 20th century history. On the 25th Anniversary of the Afton Festival
he and a small group of fans gathered on Yarmouth's old abandoned railway
station for the songwriters' Tribute to Jimi Hendrix concert:
". . . over there is Tennyson Down. From that cross you can see all over the West Wight. That's a good place to spot hooded white figures walking up on the dank evenings, over there is Compton Bay, which is the Airscape. That's a good place to hover. This railway line was dug up in 1953. It was actually only ever used once; it was built in 1913 to take the troops to France. When they emptied the West Wight of able-bodied men they just tore up the tracks."
Robyn Hitchcock  

"The mayor of Ryde heard the Beatles thing on the radio in 1965 . . . and Hendrix haunting Afton. . . Telegram for Mr. Dyelon . . . Scott Walker's at Quarr . . . Pete Townshend's dining in Cowes . . . I'm not the King of Gurnard pop because Mark's outside the Londis shop . . . 2,000 imitation Reg Presley's alone in the Seagull Ballroom . . . I love this diamond Wight island from the see you later's to the absolutely weird and when I'm sat by the Longstone I can see Tennyson from here . . ."
Only a handful of Islanders have managed
to maintain pop and rock music careers after humble beginnings on the Island.
Among them are singer Craig Douglas, Level 42's Boon and Phil Gould and
Mark King, and the Fine Young Cannibals Dave Steele. Others have dabbled,
hit brick walls before deciding to exist as big fishes in this small pond.
Some like Anthony Minghella have moved from local bands to establishing
themselves as international names who still find time to be passionate advocates
for the Island.
"I'll listen to that because it's by Paul
Athey," he once said to me on receiving a copy of some Island music. Minghella
was taking time off from editing his acclaimed film "The English Patient"
to shoot the breeze about Island musicians. Both Paul Athey and Mike Jolliffe
were influential to him when he once played keyboards in a little-known
Island band called Dancer. That day we discussed how a talented songwriter
like Mike Jolliffe never managed to become better known. "Perhaps," I suggested
to him, "the sun shining at Cowes on a Summer's day is just too appealing
to want to ever leave."
Anthony Minghella would explore a similar
theme when the opportunity presented itself to make a programme for BBC
Radio 4. Mike Jolliffe's "End of the Season" ran throughout the programme,
which contains one of the film director's favourite lines: "wouldn't it
be fun to shoot a gun up the High Street". It's a telling line about the
dead of Winter in a seaside town.
After the demise of Dancer, Paul Athey took
up a romantic notion with three other Island musicians to sail for South
America to play their music. The Silver Bands single "Reach For The Stars"
made number 4 in the Venezuelan hit parade before the group sailed home
again, very brown and emancipated.
Paul Athey no longer lusts after stardom,
now more content to sit in the local bars and theatres playing in a gut
string guitar duo or an expanded four piece unit combining Indian, Flamenco
and spaghetti Western themes. His guitar playing partner is known only by
the initials SG. Both are a long way from their last crack at the big time
in the four piece Choir (album on A&M Records). The call of the road no
longer has that fascination for them while the sun continues to shine on
the Isle of Wight.
Some measure of fame has been found by an
almost monastic brotherhood of local musicians working away in back garden
sheds for the tiny hip hop trance music label Holistic Records. P Nu Riff,
aka Paul Butler and Max Brennan and Rupert Brown, are among those creating
ambience out of the fog, shores and pastoral downs of the Island. They have
become known as far afield as Japan and Russia while working away in seclusion.

Rupert Brown is a sought after session drummer who gives his passion in
equal measure whether working for international names or nailing the beat
behind the traps for local combos. When not working, Rupert might be found
in a fraternity that has all the makings of the Island's very own Buena
Vista Social Club. Revolving around the brother and sister duo of JC and
Angelina Grimshaw, the collective draws everything in from self penned songs,
old country blues, jazz, folk, hula and something JC affectionately calls
"thrash skiffle".
The duo has worked all over the United Kingdom
to Ireland, Europe, Japan, and California, but they return from each foray
to work the bars of the Isle of Wight. Here, the support of father John
Rufus Grimshaw, a character straight out of Laurie Lee's Cider with Rosie,
and Japanese mother Kim is fundamental to their community spirit.
John Rufus once eloquently summed up the
musical roots of his children: "They began in the middle of the Thatcherite
years when everyone was into synthesizers. Folk, skiffle, jazz, Hawaiian
music all went into the melting pot. They owe their roots to the folk clubs
that element of the singer songwriter bringing along a guitar. Their songwriting
had started. It led them to the obscure borderline where they are now."
It would be a great mistake to assume that
because the Grimshaws' lifestyle as musicians confines them to working where
they can that they are not capable of bigger and better stages. They work
this "obscure borderline" without management but with a passion.
The acoustic talents of JC's mandolin and
guitar plus Angelina's passion for the gin swilling swagger of Bessie Smith
and the bruising songs of Memphis Minnie find their voice in the Dance Preachers.
The unit expands and contracts around the couple's original songs and the
knock-a-wall-down power of percussionist Rupert Brown and double bassist
Paul Armfield.
Most Sundays the Grimshaws turn the front
bar of the Ryde Castle Hotel on the town's esplanade into the aforementioned
Buena Vista Social Club. JC and Angelina play host to musical guests including
Wally who, retired from playing music on the liners, gets up with his saxophone;
Pat sings the blues; the delightfully named Amanda Lynn Kane offers some
of her own compositions; or Cathy Flux adds a violin while Stevie James
Gadd steps up to whack the thick string of a tea-chest bass. John Rufus
beams between dancing and attempting to inspire another song writing competition
to which he will pen a ditty to win the yard of ale.
Here, young children dance in front of the
band, outside on the patio on balmy days or on the carpet inside when winter
turns the season cold. JC's song "Riding On A Smile" seems to be an anthem
for the way of life of those living in Ryde, where the craic is all and
the music is everything:
I've been rambling with the boys, slept beneath the stars
Singing for our supper by playing around in bars
We were only dreamers then and nothing much has changed
Just the colours getting brighter on the stories as they age.© JC Grimshaw
It is plausible by criss-crossing this tiny diamond
Island to find quality music any night of the week. Or it is entirely
possible to miss it altogether. Sandra O'Toole yearns for more events similar
to the one that lit up Ventnor's old Winter Gardens ballroom a couple of
years ago when local character Mad Maff had his 40th birthday party. The
party involved inviting many of the musicians who had forged their music
in a burst of creativity during the 1980s and early 90s. A draughty old
ballroom which once rocked through the 1960s with a fusion of music from
teddy boys rock and roll to the soul pop of the mods is brought to life
again with night people grooving.
Local characters like the madcap Merlinesque
figure Graham MacFarlane, whose Ferret Theatre Company mixed mayhem and
music in equal doses before fading away, is back on stage again with The
Jones, whose six-foot-four-in-stockinged-feet singer Chiz still belts out
songs in Newport pubs and anywhere he can find a gig. Mick Cooch is laying
down diamond chords from his Gretch, still writing passionate songs as gritty
as Newport's old Quay and unconcerned that he's only playing them in small
pubs. Paul Armfield performs solo, plucking old Blue Note jazz ballads and
original songs out of a double bass.
Paul Armfield may yet be another songwriter
destined, like Mike Jolliffe, to find the sun shining on the Isle of Wight
too alluring to desert his work in a local bookshop. He escapes in songs
like his emotive "Vapour Trails", where he charms a Newport girl to come
sail away with him. He describes it thus: "it's about unfulfilled potential.
As JC Grimshaw would say, it's another one pulled up from the well of self
righteousness." It may yet speak volumes for those who play out their lives
on this diamond Wight, enriching its culture, making their mark, dreaming
of "following the Vapour Trails south. . ."
It's
no place for one of such beauty Paul Armfield
Editor's Note:
The cover graphic of JC Grimshaw at Totland is © The Grimshaws. A
special thanks to Gwynn Wight at Wightindex.com
for providing images of the Isle of Wight, to the Isle of Wight Poets
and Writers Society, and to the musicians who allowed their music and
recordings to be made available for this story.
MUSIC CREDITS:
"You Got Me Dreaming Girl" (JC
Grimshaw)
JC Grimshaw vocals, guitars; Amanda Lynn Kane vocals; Rupert Brown percussion;
Paul Armfield double bass. From the album Footprints and Dreams,
(Village Bike 9).
"Vapour Trails" (Paul Armfield)
Paul Armfield vocals, guitar; Adam Kirk guitar and backing vocals. Performed
live at the Medina Theatre, Newport, Isle of Wight, February 20th, 2000.
"Beachboats" (Mike Jolliffe)
Mike Jolliffe vocals, guitar; Debbie Pidgeon vocals, Jeff Bassett lead
guitar; Nathan King bass. From Vaguely Sunny - Isle of Wight Rock Anthology
released in May 2000 copyright Mike Jolliffe.
Dick Taylor remembers the 1968 Isle
of Wight Festival from Vaguely Sunny - Isle of Wight Rock Anthology
released in May 2000 copyright Dick Taylor.
Robyn Hitchcock's introduction to his Tribute to Jimi concert on the 25th Anniversary of the Afton Festival on August 26, 1995 on Yarmouth's abandoned railway station. Recorded by Jonathon Turner, copyright Robyn Hitchcock.
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